Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Teams Up With Kari Voutilainen And Phillips To Bring Its Historic Caliber 135-O Back To Life
The reborn Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire is a limited edition of 10 pieces, available exclusively through Phillips.
Results for Caliber 6105
426 articles · 3 videos found · page 3 of 15
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor”
A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Horage Supersede aims to deliver unprecedented value with new K2 micro-rotor GMT caliber
With hope on the horizon, and borders hopefully beginning to open, the relevance of GMT and world timer complications is bit by bit returning. Heck, if you are like me, a part of an international team, than the GMT complication does come in handy even now when coordinating Zoom calls. Regardless of circumstance, it is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Horage Supersede aims to deliver unprecedented value with new K2 micro-rotor GMT caliber appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Spring Drive’s Next Generation: The 5 Days Caliber 9RA2
Grand Seiko launches the next generation of their Spring Drive movement with the 5 Days Caliber 9RA2 fitted into two limited edition timepieces that are inspired by nature.
Quill & Pad
WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market
In 2020/2021, the pre-owned landscape has experienced a seismic shift called consolidation, led by the acquisition of online vintage and pre-owned dealer Analog/Shift by Watches of Switzerland in late 2020 and more recently Hodinkee purchasing Crown & Caliber. Elizabeth Doerr converses with pre-owned watch specialist WatchBox's CEO Justin Reis for views on the Hodinkee takeover and the current pre-owned market.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401
We all know the “Holy Trinity” manufacturers can be called out at times for being on the slower side when it comes to product evolution. To be honest, that’s for a good reason, too. The pursuit towards perfection has to be careful and calculated, and each of the brands have to ensure their watches live … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Citizen Mechanical: debuting a new caliber 0200. Hands-on review.
Presenting full details and hands-on with The Citizen mechanical model features the newly-developed Caliber 0200 mechanical movement. This is a new mechanical movement, and the first to be developed by Citizen in-house since 2010, and the first developed in collaboration with their Swiss subsidiary Manufacture La Joux-Perret S. A. As we understand it, Citizen hasRead More
SJX Watches
Seiko Remembers Legendary Japanese Explorer with Prospex 6105 Remakes
Legendary for being the first man to reach the North Pole solo, Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) was an explorer who notched up several expeditionary feats before disappearing in 1984. Amongst his achievements was a solo, sled-dog run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976 – a two-year, 12,500 km journey – in preparation for climbing Vinson Massif, Antarctica’s highest peak. It was on this trip that Uemura wore a Seiko ref. 6105, the “turtle” diver launched in 1970 that has since become one of Seiko’s best known dive watches thanks to the distinctive case shape. Uemura disappeared in winter 1984 whilst descending the Denali – after successfully reaching the peak – never to be seen again. February 2020 would be his 80th birthday had he lived. To commemorate his life, Seiko has introduced the Prospex The 1970’s Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation modelled on the ref. 6105 worn by Uemura and available in two variants, the limited-edition SLA049 and the regular-production SLA051. The Seiko ref. 6105 of 1970 worn by Uemura during his 1976 solo sled-dog run Initial thoughts Seiko loves limited editions – a trio of Prospex models for its 140th anniversary was just announced – and the limited editions are often facelifts of existing models. To an extent, that remains true. The new SLA049 looks very similar to the SPB183 – nicknamed the “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the character who wore on in Apocalypse Now – that was released late last year. Like the...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Diver’s Watch 55th Anniversary “62MAS” and “6105”
Seiko is marking the 55th anniversary of its first diver’s watch with remakes – yet again. The Prospex 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 modelled on the 62MAS 6217, while the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183 takes its cues from the 6105-8110. Initial thoughts Seiko is certainly not short on diver’s watches: it introduced the 55th anniversary trilogy in March, as well as a green-dial LX diver a few months later. This pair feels like two watches too many, especially since they aren’t that different from watches launched before. 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation SPB183J1 (left), and 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043J1 It’s a given that both possess all of the intrinsic appeal of Seiko dive watches – solid construction, excellent case finishing, and a robust movement. The two watches also enjoy strong historical legitimacy given Seiko’s immense track record in dive watches. But not only does there seem to be too many Seiko limited editions, both are not quite as afforably priced as Seiko dive watches once were. They are still reasonably priced, but no longer as compelling. 62MAS The 1965 Diver’s Re-creation SLA043 is a remake of the first-ever Seiko dive watch, the 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Like earlier 62MAS remakes, this is larger than the original at 39.9 mm in diameter. Notably, it is slimmer than the remake from the diver’s watch trilogy launched earlier in the year, because this is powered by the 8L35 running at 4 H...
Time+Tide
An Omega fan responds to the release of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (and addresses the 20K elephant in the room)
Putting on my Speedmaster Professional 50th anniversary this morning, I couldn’t help but reflect and smile on the huge announcement from Omega. The decade has just begun and Omega dropped a bombshell with the announcement of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 in stainless steel. By now, you would have read that this particular watch was … ContinuedThe post An Omega fan responds to the release of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (and addresses the 20K elephant in the room) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Caliber 12 Final Edition
The swan song of a longtime caliber in the Monaco stable.
Deployant
New: Seiko re-edition: 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Caliber 3X22
Seiko releases the Seiko Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Caliber 3X22.With the good looks of the oringal Astron, but with a new movement.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko SLA033 Prospex Diver – A Tribute To The 6105
I think that this is actually a pretty sharp release if you're comfortable spending within this bracket. Let's take a quick look at the Seiko SLA033 dive watch - a modern tribute to the Seiko 6105 "Willard."
Deployant
3 new Citizen Eco-Drive watches with the Caliber 0100: world’s most precise watch
Citizen releases three new watches with the Caliber 0100, the most highest precision at +/- 1 second Available in WG, and Ti cases.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Resumes Production Of The Caliber 321 Movement
Based on the Lemania 2310 - a movement that would serve as a base for watches like the Patek Philippe 3970 - the original caliber 321 stands as the spirit of the "true" moon and pre-moon watches. As a column-wheel chronograph, it's also highly coveted by collectors due to the historical significance and purported superiority as well.
Deployant
New: Omega re-introduces the Caliber 321
Omega re-introduces their most famous movement – the Caliber 321. This robust and elegant chronograph movement has been a favourite since the 1940s and is still highly sought-after by watch collectors around the world. Now, more than 50 years after the last Calibre 321 was produced, Omega is bringing the iconic movement back. Known forRead More
SJX Watches
Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G
The standout piece from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was certainly the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The astronomy-oriented watch was a decade in the making and compared to its more conservative predecessor, the ref. 6102, the new model benefits from a complete makeover, both aesthetically and mechanically. Hidden within the 47 mm white gold case is an unusual component that didn’t get the attention it deserved at launch: a butterfly-shaped compliant cam-and-rack mechanism. The system is used for the sunrise/sunset indicators and proves Patek Philippe’s almost savant-like mastery of compliant micro-mechanics. The Celestial ref. 6105 is pictured showing a sunrise of around 8 AM, and a sunset time of about 7 PM. Note the date ring pulls double duty as the sunrise/sunset scale. Fixing something that may be broken Although still quite rare compared to other complications, there are more sunrise/sunset watches on the market than seemingly ever before. They mostly follow the same basic construction: a cam that works with a follower. As the year progresses, the cam slowly turns, displacing the follower. In pairs, such systems are used to show both the sunrise and sunset times, which synchronously vary throughout the year. So why fix something that doesn’t appear to be broken? Or more specifically, why use an elaborate compliant system when a basic cam and follower is a fixture in classical watchmaking? European patent EP3740821B1 granted to ...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off
Patek Philippe updates its star chart “Grand Complication” for the third time with the Celestial Sunrise Sunset Ref. 6105G. The ref. 6105G adds the time of sunrise and sunset – cleverly integrated into the date scale – and a daring new design with a formidable, space-age lug-less case in white gold that’s 47 mm across. The ref. 6105G also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, adding a corrector that shifts the sunrise and sunset scales, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication...
Monochrome
Introducing – The new, Surprisingly Modern Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G
On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, Patek Philippe unveils a new astronomical complication with the reference 6105G-001, standing out with its surprisingly modern design. Derived from the Celestial, it features a multi-layered dial with several stacked discs that rotate independently to display the night sky with the apparent movement of the stars as […]
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGH311 and SBGR325
When Grand Seiko (GS) made its return in 1998, the inaugural SBGR001 model was powered by the 9S55, the first modern-day GS calibre. Now the brand is marking the 25th anniversary of the 9S movement family with a pair of limited editions. The Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Hi-Beat 36000 SBGH311 and the Heritage Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary SBGR325. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 has a patterned dial, while the more affordable SBGR325 has a dial with a brushed finish. Both are modelled on the original model of 1998 and sport the same 37 mm case. SBGH311 (left) and SBGR325 Initial thoughts With their 37 mm cases and clean styling, the new 9S pair hark back to the GS watches made from the late 1990s to mid 2000s. That is unsurprising since they are meant to commemorate the first model with the 9S movement, which made its debut in 1998. The Hi-Beat SBGH311 does have a fancier pattern dial, but one that is relatively subtle in its shades-of-grey texture. As a result, they will appeal to anyone who wants a smaller, simpler GS watch. Another upside of the relatively simpler execution are the prices, which place the pair amongst the most affordable self-winding GS watches. The SBGH311 is US$6,600 and the SBGR325 about 20% less. SBGR325 Old-school size The SBGH311 has a textured dial in silvery grey inspired by clouds that’s matched with a blued-steel seconds hand. And the “GS” emblem is gilded in a nod to the fact that this is an anniversary edition. Not...
Deployant
Omega’s new heritage Speedmaster Caliber 321 Chronograph
Omega opens the year with a new Speedmaster Calibre 321, complete with vintage details and a beautiful design in 18K Canopus Gold.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Yema’s New Automatic Watch Is A 38mm Stealth Diver With An In-House Caliber
The Yema Navygraf Phantom CMM.10 packs an in-house automatic, 300m water resistance, and a 70-hour power reserve into a 38mm blacked-out case.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber
A. Lange & Söhne had one of my, and many others’, favorite releases at Watches & Wonders 2025. It wasn’t a super complication and had no bells-and-whistles. Rather, it was simple and small. The 34mm 1815 three-handers in white or rose gold exemplified confident, understated luxury like no other watches at the fair. For 2026, Lange has brought back a watch that had been out of production with a new movement and in a new, smaller size, following suit from last year’s release. Unlike the 1815s, these feature one of the less common complications in the Lange catalog: the annual calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar was a very cool watch. It combined its eponymous complication with Lange’s signature outsized date and was powered by a since-retired “Sax-0-Mat” three-quarter-rotor automatic movement. These funky movements were featured in the Langematik watches and represented Lange’s first foray into automatic calibers. In addition to a distinctive look, they featured a hidden complication: zero-reset seconds, meaning that when the crown was pulled out, the seconds hand would jump to zero. In 2011, the Sax-O-Mats began to be replaced by central rotor calibers with up to 72 hours of power reserve, an increase from 46 hours, but the zero-reset seconds disappeared. Though comprising many different calibers, most of Lange’s currently in-production automatics have a central rotor. I am unsure when the previous generation of the Saxonia Annual Calendar went out of pro...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Introduces A New Smaller, Reversible Perpetual Calendar Caliber (Live Pics)
Building off of Kurt Klaus' original design, this new generation movement allows crown adjustment of the calendar both forwards and in reverse.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber
I’d like to think I am a bit of a movement nerd. Not in the sense of knowing all of the technical attributes (actually, I wish I knew more there), but rather about what movements are on the market from the major suppliers. Hand me a watch, even with a complication, and I can probably tell you what movement it has in a matter of seconds (assuming it’s mechanical) by the positioning of the hands, complications, rotor bearing, etc. So, last fall, when I was handed a prototype of a new chronograph by Wolbrook and, upon seeing the dial, realized I had no idea what movement it had, my interest was piqued. The watch was the Wolbrook Jetflyer, which I have since had the opportunity to spend more time with. An extension of the French brand’s proven line of tool dive watches based on vintage models, the Jetflyer is their first foray into mechanical chronographs. As the name suggests, the Jetflyer is not meant as a “dive” chronograph, but rather as a pilot’s, though that’s largely semantics, as there are a lot of overlaps in design language (and the WR is 100m). I’ll get back to the particulars of the design, because what really stands out is the movement. $845 Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Case Stainless Steel Movement Jeambrun PS 6402 Dial Mattte Black Lume X1 Super-Luminova Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Leather or Bracelet Water Resistance 100m Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 14.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-d...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Gets An In-House Caliber
Smaller-wristed fans of in-house calibers, rejoice!
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Czapek Time Jumper With A New Caliber To Celebrate A Ten Year Anniversary
The Time Jumper is Czapek's first jump-hour watch and features a half-hunter case, a nod to the brand's pocket-watch legacy, in both gold and steel.
Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling’s New 40mm Dive Watch With An Updated Caliber - Superocean H
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph
Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year. While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...