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Results for Caliber 9F (9F61, 9F62, 9F82, 9F85, 9F86)

6,224 articles · 382 videos found · page 3 of 221

Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F; SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 4, 2025

Reflecting on Twenty Years of MB&F;

It’s difficult to picture what the independent watchmaking landscape would look like without MB&F;. In some ways, it feels like the brand has always been around, perhaps because for me, it has. I first discovered MB&F; in 2008 when the HM2 was launched, but even back then the brand had an aura of polish that belied its short history. With the benefit of hindsight, Max Büsser’s decision to step away from corporate life, and leave the top job at Harry Winston Rare Timepieces to build his own brand rooted in collaboration, transparency, and imagination, seems obvious. But at the time, it was seen as a risky move that would never work. To understand why it did, we need to go back to the early 2000s. Max Büsser during the launch of the HM1 It’s called what? Let’s rewind. In the early 2000s the watch community was obsessed with the topic of in-house movements. The internet was slowly helping collectors find one another and share insider knowledge, which revealed how many watches were powered by the same handful of movements. If a new brand wanted to be taken seriously, it was increasingly important to be a manufacture and do as much as possible in-house. It was a simpler time, and we had yet to see such widespread misuse of the term.  So when Mr Büsser explained that MB&F; stood for ‘Maximilian Büsser & Friends,’ and that he would actively celebrate the friends and collaborators that he was working with, people told him he was crazy. But he understood that the coll...

SJX Podcast: Max Büsser and 20 Years of MB&F; SJX Watches
MB&F; Jun 20, 2025

SJX Podcast: Max Büsser and 20 Years of MB&F;

Our editor Brandon Moore sat down with Maximilian Büsser of MB&F; to reflect on 20 years of disruptive design, and why the classical SP One is the greatest gift he’s given to himself and the brand. Mr Büsser touches on the challenges independent watchmakers faced before their recent surge in popularity, noting the struggles of himself and his contemporaries. And now the opposite has happened: dealing with the strains of massive, unexpected success. Listen to him discuss the last two decades and the next two decades on YouTube, Spotify, and Apple Podcasts.  

Introducing – The Funky Groove of the New MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 Purple Monochrome
MB&F; Jun 12, 2025

Introducing – The Funky Groove of the New MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 Purple

Max Büsser’s childhood dream was to become a car designer. Although he ultimately studied engineering and founded MB&F;, one of the most successful indie watch brands, his passion for cars has permeated his design language, resulting in driver’s watches like the 1970s-inspired HM5, featuring a lateral speedometer-style display. The HM8 Mark 2, released in 2023, is a true […]

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary Jun 2, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary

Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...

MB&F; Launches an Entirely New Collection for their 20th Anniversary with the SP One Worn & Wound
MB&F; May 20, 2025

MB&F; Launches an Entirely New Collection for their 20th Anniversary with the SP One

Would you expect anything less from MB&F; on their 20th anniversary than the launch of an entirely new collection? The independent brand founded by Max Büsser has spent the last two decades confounding expectations, delighting enthusiasts and collectors along the way with some of the brazen and creative watch designs of the modern era. The brand’s influence and importance on the modern independent watch scene really can’t be overstated. To date, MB&F; releases have existed on two distinct tracks: the LM or “Legacy Machine” collection, which represents Max Büsser’s idea of a classical watchmaking style (think circular cases, classical complications, and a generally traditional if sometimes highly complex readout of the time), and the HM, or “Horological Machine” collection, which can be described as pure, maximalist creativity. This is where you see watches shaped like dogs, and spaceships, with time read in unusual and unexpected ways. While you’d think that working within two collections in this manner (particularly where one is seemingly unbound by traditional watchmaking rules) Max and his team would have the freedom to create just about anything they set their mind to. In reality, of course, there are always projects that don’t reach the finish line for one reason or another. The SP One (SP is short for “Special Projects”) represents an entirely new product category for MB&F; with the promise of reviving these projects and creating entirely new one...

First Look – The MB&F; SP One, the First Chapter of the New Special Projects Collection Monochrome
MB&F; May 20, 2025

First Look – The MB&F; SP One, the First Chapter of the New Special Projects Collection

Founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser and counting on the participation of “friends” in the creative process, MB&F; has levitated around two main collections since its creation, but always with a rather radical concept and designs like nothing else on the market. First came the Horological Machines (with HM1 in 2007), futuristic watches inspired by […]

Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But Fratello
MB&F; May 20, 2025

Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But

What happens when one of horology’s most radical voices tries its hand at something classically elegant? You get the MB&F; SP One. At just 38mm across and 12mm thick, it’s the smallest and slimmest watch the brand has ever made. But don’t let that fool you. This might be a more compact, dress-watch-adjacent MB&F;, but […] Visit Hot Take: The New MB&F; SP One Is Classic MB&F; Yet Anything But to read the full article.

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif After teasing May 1, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif

After teasing collectors with the compact Chronomètre Furtif Bleu in 2023, F.P. Journe has unveiled its successor, the Chronomètre Furtif (CF). The CF offers the same dimensions as its predecessor as well as a similar laser-engraved grand feu enamel dial, but takes the idea of furtif, or “stealthy”, even further with black-on-black livery. While the CF Bleu was a one-off piece in tantalum made for the Only Watch charity auction where it sold for CHF2 million, the new CF is a regular production model crafted almost entirely from scratch-resistant tungsten carbide. Initial thoughts The CF is a watch that hits you over the head with its intense darkness and exceptional weight. It’s not dark in the same way as an H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Vantablack, which effectively absorbs light; rather, the dial is a deep glossy black like the glass of an iPhone screen. This reflectivity makes it difficult to photograph but easy to enjoy. These characteristics are thanks to the flawless black grand feu enamel dial and laser-engraved markings. Because of the way the light plays across the dial, it looks slightly different from almost every angle. It’s a dramatic and interactive dial that contributes significantly to the overall wearing experience. The CF is a true heavyweight, tipping the scales at 250 g. But it feels even heavier on account of its wearable 42 mm footprint and slim 9.55 mm thickness. This size-to-weight ratio gives it an almost overwhelming sense of density. The wa...

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Apr 27, 2025

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva

Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s  The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...

First Impressions of the Zenith G.F.J. Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Apr 17, 2025

First Impressions of the Zenith G.F.J.

A few months back I was given an opportunity to get a little preview of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders novelties in New York. More and more brands do this every year – it’s a great help to those of us in the media charged with photographing and writing about dozens upon dozens of new releases that all appear in the span of a few hours on an April morning in Geneva. So photographer Garrett Jones and I made our way to meet with our Zenith press contacts in midtown Manhattan, not knowing for sure what we’d see. In short order, the bright blue ceramic “Chronograph Trilogy” anniversary models were unveiled. In discussing the watches I casually mentioned that these would probably be a big hit at Watches & Wonders, and I must have inferred that these three watches would be this year’s halo pieces for the brand. I was quickly corrected, and told that there was something else coming that Zenith was holding back – the first watch in an entirely new collection – that would be a big surprise as we got closer to its release. I didn’t even try to elicit a hint about what it might be – I was happy to be surprised.  Eventually the press release for the new G.F.J. hit my inbox, and I was indeed surprised. While Zenith, as a brand, has always been quite chronometry forward, I had gotten into the habit of thinking of them as a sports watch brand. Yes, the movements are very good, but lots of brands have very good movements. I admit that the yearslong focus on building out ...

A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model Fratello
Zenith G.F.J 160th-Anniversary Model Apr 16, 2025

A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model

This year, many brands are celebrating different milestones. One of the most relevant anniversaries in 2025 is Zenith’s 160th, which you probably read about during Watches and Wonders. Although it is a significant milestone, Zenith treated us to a very select number of anniversary models during the fair. I can greatly appreciate that because it […] Visit A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model to read the full article.

Introducing – The White-and-Red TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Apr 2, 2025

Introducing – The White-and-Red TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1

Since TAG Heuer announced its return as the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 earlier this year, we’ve already seen an updated Formula 1 Chronograph collection. Naturally, it was only a matter of time before the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph – powered by the cutting-edge TH81-00 movement introduced last year – joined the F1-inspired lineup. What remained […]

Introducing the Zenith G.F.J., a Chronometry Focused Tribute to the Brand’s Founder Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Apr 1, 2025

Introducing the Zenith G.F.J., a Chronometry Focused Tribute to the Brand’s Founder

Last year, I had the privilege of sitting down with Benoit de Clerck to talk about all things Zenith. At the time, Benoit was just a few short months into his tenure as CEO of Zenith, and Watches & Wonders was only barely in the rearview, but de Clerck made it very clear that he was already looking ahead, not just generally, but towards something very specific, and very exciting. “I’m working hard on something new next year, which - obviously - I like, because it’s very unique, and we’re producing very small quantities and all that. And, I can’t tell you much more, but next year we’re celebrating our 160th year and we will come up with something that the collectors will be very, very, very happy with.” Well, now, nearly a year later, we know what that “something new” is, and de Clerck was absolutely right - because it is something to be very, very happy with. I’m talking, of course, about the new Zenith G.F.J. G.F.J., in this case, stands for Georges Favre-Jacot, the name of the man who founded Zenith some 160 years ago, but it might as well stand for ‘Great F***ing Job’ because Zenith has knocked it out of the park with this one. At the heart of the G.F.J. is a revived version of the calibre 135, a historically significant and long-dormant movement, designed by Ephrem Jobin in the years after World War II and produced from 1949 to 1962. The Calibre 135 was widely used by Zenith at that time, but especially prized is the 135-O variant created...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1

TAG Heuer is a name familiar to many of my fellow Australians. It’s a popular brand down under. Even so, it’s one from which I have never owned a watch except for an original quartz Formula 1 from the 1980s. This needs to change someday, but today’s article features a watch I could never hope […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 to read the full article.