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New: Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition
Girard-Perregaux celebrates the Year of the Horse with an interesting watch they christened as the La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition.
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Girard-Perregaux celebrates the Year of the Horse with an interesting watch they christened as the La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition.
SJX Watches
The 30th anniversary of the Chopard L.U.C. manufacture was one anniversary among many this year, but it will likely be remembered thanks to the Grand Strike, the most complicated watch in Chopard’s history and its first grande sonnerie. Building on the successful Full Strike minute repeater architecture and making full use of the brand’s patented sapphire gongs, the Grand Strike is a chronometer-certified two-train clock watch with a push-button minute repeater. In this context, the presence of the tourbillon is almost a footnote. Initial thoughts I can count on one hand the number of brands that have created their own grande sonnerie wristwatch. It’s one of the few things in watchmaking that’s proven challenging enough to still be rare, even in the days of computer-aided design (CAD) and advanced manufacturing technology like wire erosion. For this reason, the grande sonnerie has a towering cultural presence among watchmakers and collectors, looming above all other complications. For Chopard, the Grand Strike represents the culmination of 30 years of the L.U.C. manufacture, the brand’s haute horlogerie division. The first impression of the Grand Strike is one of extraordinary depth. There’s not much of a dial, save for the minutes scale etched on the inside of the sapphire crystal, and the small concentric sub-dials for the dual power reserve displays. This depth shrinks the watch visually, and it feels dense and compact despite its rather large 43 mm size and...
Time+Tide
This impressive piece is Chopard's most complex watch design yet, the fruit of over 11,000 hours of research and development.The post Chopard’s new L.U.C Grand Strike is the most complex horological creation the Maison has ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It certainly seems like 2025 is the year of anniversaries. Big names are celebrating many centuries of watchmaking, and many brands, young and old, are releasing exceptional commemorative creations. Some are intricate masterpieces that express their maker’s savoir-faire, while others represent an evolution of a historical benchmark creation. The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide is […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Roger Dubuis (RD) revisits its earliest triumph with the Hommage La Placide, a 28-piece limited edition that reimagines the brand’s signature bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. Named for the late Dubuis’ childhood Boy Scouts nickname, the Placide celebrates the classical roots of the Geneva-based manufacture while honouring the design codes that first put RD on the map three decades ago. Faithful to the originals yet refined in execution, the Placide reaffirms the brand’s ability to merge mechanical ingenuity with expressive design - a reminder that beneath its modern flamboyance lies genuine horological pedigree. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis today is best known for its over-the-top, modern design - skeletonised movements, sharp case lines, and a visual language that often borders on the theatrical. It’s a far cry from the brand’s origins three decades ago, when Dubuis himself was focused on classical watchmaking rooted in Genevan tradition. Paying tribute to those early creations, the Placide reimagines the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar that first established the horloger genevois 30 years ago. The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar was first conceived in the late 1980s, when Dubuis collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht to develop a novel perpetual calendar mechanism featuring twin retrograde indicators for Harry Winston. It was only in 1995, upon founding his own brand, that Dubuis introduced the complication ...
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Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide. Roger Dubuis is going back to it's roots by releasing a modern revival of the Hommage. Limited to 28 pieces.
Time+Tide
Jamie fell in love with the G.F.J. in Geneva earlier this year, and half a year on (and a lot more time on wrist), and he's still smitten. Here's why.The post Why I’m still smitten with the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Les Cabinotiers Homage to Epic Warriors Minute Repeater and The Labours of Heracles unite grand feu enamel and hand‑engraving.The post These Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête métiers d’art pieces tell centuries-old stories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin releases four ultra-complicated watches as part of its 270th anniversary celebrations, all with astronomical themes.The post This quartet of Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête high complications honour 270 years of astronomic momentum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The cal. 4132 inside the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans” is a rare evolution of one of the most revered chronograph movements in modern watchmaking. Based on the long-running cal. 4130 platform, the new movement was developed specifically for the Daytona “Le Mans” unveiled in 2023 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the famed endurance race. While visually similar to the cal. 4131 found in current-production Daytonas, the cal. 4132 incorporates a clever mechanical upgrade that allows it to record up to 24 hours of elapsed time. Given the relatively simple upgrade from a 12-hour to 24-hour counter, the cal. 4132 might seem like a weekend project for a brand with the engineering might of Rolex, but the reality is more nuanced. To achieve this, Rolex engineered a compact differential gear set that doubles the timing capacity without altering the core movement architecture, leaving the movement dimensions unchanged. As with many Rolex innovations, the cal. 4132 reflects the brand’s quiet obsession with functional longevity and serviceability. The latest Daytona movements reveal a degree of decorative finishing unseen in past generations of Rolex movements An already quirky base For over two decades, the Rolex cal. 4130 stood as the benchmark for industrial chronograph movements. Launched in 2000, the cal. 4130 was the first in-house chronograph movement developed by Rolex. The movement was lauded for its compact architecture, low component count, and ease of service – a...
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Time+Tide
The 5th generation of TAG Heuer's smart watch offers more features, a new smaller 40mm size, and more customisation than ever before.The post The new TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 brings upgrades, more customisation, and a new size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet has just made the surprise announcement that they'll be returning to the world's biggest watch fair for 2026.The post Audemars Piguet announces they’ll be at Watches and Wonders 2026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary tour de force continues with the La Quête Du Temps ‘Mecanique D’art’, a metre-tall astronomical clock, automata, and decorative object. While the brand teased us with the most complicated wristwatch ever made earlier this year, it’s been planning something much, much grander – a true monument to time. Initial thoughts I see La Quête Du Temps as part of a near millennia old tradition of astronomical clocks and mechanical follies. During the very late 12th century, an Artuqid king commissioned an exceptional astronomical water clock from famed Islamic inventor Ismail al-Jazari. Al-Jazari’s “castle clock” kept time, but only as an ancillary function. The clock tracked the passage of the sun, the passage and phase of the moon and the zodiacs, and on the sixth, ninth and twelfth hours a cast of five life-sized automata sprung to life, playing drums and trumpets to dazzle the royal court. Other kings commissioned similar astronomical clocks from inventor in their courts, as symbols of their power and sophistication. If not kings, it was congregations and city councils raising these models of the heavens on Earth as symbols of prosperity and prestige. And today, Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watch manufacturer, builds one for itself. The Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch yet made, was not the brand’s 270th anniversary flagship – this is. Image – Vacheron Constantin/Stephane Sby Balmy This year has been mor...
Time+Tide
Bulgari collaborates with Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan on an eye-catching Octo Finissimo with a hand-filled titanium case.The post Bulgari & Lee Ufan scratch out a new look for the Octo Finissimo (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Today, Oris is releasing two big and bold watches. First is the Big Crown Calibre 113, and second is the Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control.” The Big Crown comes with the 10-day power reserve of Calibre 113, which debuted in 2017. It includes a non-linear power reserve indicator, day and date, plus a […] Visit Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 And Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control” to read the full article.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre has opened an exclusive alpine retreat in a beautifully restored 19th-century farmhouse, close to their manufacture.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils Le Chalet, a luxury rural retreat in the Vallée de Joux, for guests of the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s Sunday, so it’s time to wake up with a nice cup of coffee and another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg picked two absolute heavy hitters to face off in this battle of stainless steel chronographs. Mike picked the current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126500LN, while Jorg picked the Omega Speedmaster Calibre […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.
Fratello
As you might know, Chopard produces watches with two distinct certifications. In its Geneva atelier, the brand creates L.U.C timepieces that bear the engraved Poinçon de Genève. The Geneva Seal is primarily concerned with the aesthetic quality and craftsmanship of the movement. While watches bearing it must also meet specific, strict chronometric requirements, the sternest […] Visit Hands-On With The Exquisite Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition - A Certified Dream Watch to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Swiss clock maker L’Epée 1839’s latest desk-bound timekeeper is the Imperial Hot Air Balloon, a unique piece that is uncharacteristically classical compared to the brand’s recent launches that have tended towards modernity. It’s essentially a highly decorated, elaborately styled variant of the no-frills Hot Air Balloon clock of 2018. L’Epée 1839 was absorbed into LVMH last year, and this shift towards more traditional clocks chimes with the luxury group’s focus on higher-end and artisanal watchmaking. Notably, Louis Vuitton tapped L’Epée 1839 for its own hot air ballon-shaped desk clock. Initial thoughts While most of L’Epée’s creations are undoubtedly interesting, blending sculptural mechanics with proprietary clock movements, the clockmaker was historically a maker of classically traditional mantlepiece clocks. Most of its creations from earlier decades were styled after carriage clock. While entirely sculptural in form, the Hot Air Balloon manages to look as it belongs to a bygone era of watchmaking. A métiers d’art creation, the unique piece is restrained and ornate, while being modern only in the way it displays the time. Otherwise, the miniature flying object would sit comfortably in a historical residence. Not to say that other L’Epée are not well executed, but their modern and structural constructions don’t usually allow for classic artisanal crafts to be put to good use. The Hot Air Ballon’s centrepiece is the blue enamelled surface...
Fratello
Last week, Jorg explained how the Alpine Eagle has carved out its spot in an overcrowded category. The brand’s persistence and creativity in drastically changing things made the collection a success story. Today, it’s my turn to look at Chopard’s new Quattro Mark IV models from its elegant L.U.C collection. The Quattro is famous for […] Visit Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...
Fratello
Whevener Jaeger-LeCoultre dusts off the Hybris name, you know you are in for something special. Whether it is Hybris Mechanica or Hybris Artistica, you can rest assured your jaw will drop. Well, this new effort does not disappoint in that respect. It does not disappoint in any respect, really. Well…maybe price, but hey, what do […] Visit Introducing: The Jaw-Dropping Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 to read the full article.
Monochrome
While Chopard’s high-end L.U.C watches are built to outlast generations, the watchmakers and artisans who make the watches are not. Foresight is not a common virtue, but co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is determined to pass the baton and prepare future generations of watchmakers. The watch unveiled today is a testament to his commitment. Celebrating the 200th […]
Time+Tide
Nine days of power reserve in a 39mm x 10.4mm case? That's unheard of, unless you're Chopard, of course.The post The 9-day Chopard L.U.C Quattro returns for its 25th anniversary in 18k rose gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu is an example of the brand's commitment to blending tradition with modernity. This timepiece is part of the Noirmont Métiers d'Art collection and features a unique sector dial that pays homage to the 1930s while incorporating contemporary engraving techniques. The newest release comes in a blue dial with white strap.
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