853 articles · 22 videos found · page 3 of 30
Quill & Pad
While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.
Quill & Pad
While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.
Revolution
This story is something of a mea culpa. Many years ago, when I was yet green with youth and correspondingly filled with overweening self-confidence, an independent watchmaker –a respected one; a student of the work of such luminaries as Janvier and Breguet –named Francois Paul Journe, came out with a most intriguing watch. That watch was […]
SJX Watches
The top lots amongst independent watchmakers at Only Watch 2021 are no doubt the F.P. Journe FFC Blue and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, but they will cost six or seven figures. But half of the participants at Only Watch are independent watchmakers, so there are a few more interesting examples of the genre, which might possibly be reasonably affordable. We round up five notable watches amongst the “indies”, ranging from the quirky and fascinating Urwerk that’s an upgraded example of the brand’s earliest watch to the stunningly engine-turned Andersen Genève Quotidiana. Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” Perhaps the avant-garde independent watchmaker, Urwerk is best known for revolutionising the presentation of time, having invented time displays using satellite cubes on a carousel and prisms in cylinders. But the brand’s creation for Only Watch 2021 looks nothing like its recent work, because it’s a quarter-century old, an artefact from the brand’s start-up days. The UR-102 “Gaïa” is a prototype of one of the brand’s earliest models – it is actually a vintage Urwerk – but dressed up smartly for the occasion, with a special case back decoration that signifies the brand’s success. The platinum case back is adorned with a sparkling, deep blue emblem that alludes to the Gaïa Prize, which Urwerk’s founders won in 2020 That said, being an Urwerk, the time display is far from rudimentary. While neither a cube nor a prism, it is still a wond...
Hodinkee
Boom goes the dynamite.
Video
Quartz watches get written off as the cheap option, but these five prove the rule is dead. In this video, Felix breaks down 5 quartz watches that should cost way more, starting with the F.P. Journe Élégante, the $30...
SJX Watches
The Répétition Souveraine is one of the more unusual minute repeaters on the market, combining classical inspiration with an idiosyncratic technical approach that is unmistakably F.P. Journe. Based on the familiar architecture of the Chronomètre Souverain yet fundamentally reworked to accommodate a striking mechanism, it is neither a conventional integrated repeater nor a simple modular add-on. Launched in 2008 with a conventional dial and briefly the thinnest contemporary minute repeater on the market, the latest iteration of the Répétition Souveraine reveals its workings through a smoked sapphire dial, offering a direct view of its flat gongs and strike train while underscoring François-Paul Journe’s distinctive philosophy of clarity, compactness, and mechanical logic. This is our third encounter with the Répétition Souveraine, having already covered the silver-dial variant and the elusive “Black Label” edition. Almost modular Most independents – and many large brands – rely on a handful of external specialists like Le Cercle des Horlogers or decades-old ebauche stocks for their repeaters. As a result, most repeaters take the same, time-tested, approach with only a few exceptions. Most are integrated designs that put the repeater train, hammers, and gongs on the same level as the rest of the movement. The rejuvenation of mechanical matchmaking during the 1980s and 1990s brought with it demand for systems that brands could add to existing movements. Amo...
SJX Watches
For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...
SJX Watches
Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high. And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition. Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com. Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale. The Sonnerie Souveraine Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance. This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass m...
Hodinkee
Auction house Phillips has walked back and corrected a claim that an early, pre-production Chronmètre à Résonance watch, set to come up for sale in November, was delivered in 1999 after the watchmaker F.P. Journe said it arrived the next year and wasn't the first example of the reference sent to a customer. "We stand corrected thanks to François-Paul Journe," Phillips said in an Instagram post. "The "Pre-Production" Chronomètre à Résonance 022/99 to be offered by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on November 7-8 was not delivered in 1999 as we originally believed. Thanks to F.P.Journe we now know the watch was actually delivered on 8 June, 2000," the auction house added. The Phillips correction followed the publication of a letter signed by F.P. Journe that disputed Phillips' claim that the watch with serial number 022/99 was likely one of the first Résonance watches commercially sold and delivered. In announcing the sale of the watch, which will hit the auction block in November in Geneva, Phillips had said the consignor and original owner of the watch had taken delivery of the piece in 1999. The auction house also suggested in a press release that the watch could be one of, if not the first, commercially delivered examples of the Résonance, often heralded as the signature watch from the French watchmaker. Phillips did not say it had confirmed that the watch was the first of the reference commercially delivered. In the letter titled "Correction," ...
Fratello
Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are enjoying some well-deserved time off and a good weekend breakfast. Lean back in your chair, folks, because we have a proper heavyweight bout scheduled for you! This week, we pit two stainless steel perpetual calendars with integrated bracelets and blue dials against each other. Thomas […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar Vs. IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 to read the full article.
Video
Are the Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, Cartier Santos, Tissot PRX, Patek Philippe Cubitus and F.P. Journe Élégante actually worth buying in 2026? These are six of the most hyped watches in the world—but hype and...
Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe watches have attracted the attention of the collector community in recent years. Some amazing results have been achieved at auction, including the spectacular FFC Blue Only Watch 2021, which sold at Christie’s for a staggering CHF 4,500,000. Seven-figure sums at auction are nothing unusual for F.P. Journe, but the consistently high results are a sure sign that the brand has taken the lead among independents in the secondary watch market.
Revolution
Part 2 of our retrospective on the watchmaking journey of François-Paul Journe sees the master watchmaker reflect on the difficulty of developing the Chronomètre à Resonance. Starting in 1983, it would take him 17 years before he could produce a resonance watch in series, another groundbreaking achievement with a complication that many regard as his […]
Quill & Pad
Our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with three of the unique timepieces on offer at the upcoming Only Watch 2021, which takes place on November 6, 2021. The unique watches featured are the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue, the Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch, and the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa. Enjoy this rare treat!
SJX Watches
What can one infer from a drawing of a new timepiece? As it turns out, a fair bit. The below sketch is the only bit of information revealed by Akrivia for its contribution to Only Watch 2021, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII). Despite the paucity of information, much can still be deduced from the single image. Initial impressions The most apparent fact that can be gleaned the sketch is a deadbeat seconds – a seconds hand that jumps discretely once a second. We can infer this from the star and flirt mechanism. The star is mounted on the escape wheel, which is located at six o’clock and completes a revolution once every five seconds. The star blocks the rotation of a flirt, a long lever that presses against the face of the star’s teeth. After each second, the star rotates far enough that the tooth provides enough clearance to release the flirt, allowing the star to rotate until the flirt contacts the next tooth of the star. This sudden release of the flirt is what controls the burst of rotational energy that drives the deadbeat second geartrain. Further inferences can be made from our May 2020 chat with Rexhep, where he hinted the RRCCII will have twin barrels powering separate going trains. In retrospect, that now makes sense in the context of the deadbeat seconds. One barrel drives the going train for timekeeping, including the escape wheel and the star. The other barrel drives a secondary gear train for the deadbeat seconds hand and the flirt...
SJX Watches
Just days after the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue made for Only Watch 2019 sold for a record 1.8m Swiss francs, the watchmaker has unveiled the regular production version of the same – the Astronomic Souveraine. While the last unique F.P. Journe produced for Only Watch eventually made into production in a significantly different form, the Astronomic Souveraine is largely the same. Save for the steel case, dial colours, and movement decoration, the Astronomic Souveraine is identical to the unique Only Watch creation. Inspired by a pocket watch Francois-Paul Journe produced in 1987 – itself inspired by the earlier works of Breguet and George Daniels – the Astronomic Souveraine has 18 complications, shown on two faces on each side of the case. These include showing both mean solar time and sidereal time, as well as an annual calendar, equation of time, tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism, and a minute repeater. Despite its complexity, the indications are remarkably well-presented, and furthermore, can all be adjusted via a single crown. Though the case is 44mm wide – the largest wristwatch ever by F.P. Journe – it remains notably compact at just 13.8mm high, helped in part by his ultra-thin minute repeater mechanism with flat hammers and gongs. As with most F.P. Journe watches, the dial on the front is solid gold, as are the bridges and plate of the movement. The 758-part cal. 1619 is equipped with double barrels, which are partly visible ...
Video
Are you familiar with the Formex Essence FortyOne “Arctic White”? Formex has always approached watchmaking with an engineer’s eye. Since the brand was founded in Biel/Bienne in 1999, much of its identity has bee...
SJX Watches
On a recent trip to Geneva I dropped by the Akrivia workshops in the city’s Old Town and spotted the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”, still in its constituent parts and almost ready for assembly. The dial, however, was finished and gorgeous. It’s a serene grey-blue, made of translucent enamel over a hand-hammered dial plate. Produced with lots of careful effort and a tiny hammer, the hammered finish is usually only applied to Akrivia’s gold dials found on the AK series watches, and is being combined with enamel for the first, and probably only, time. It was a tedious process to get right, which is why the Akrivia is one of the last to be completed amongst the Only Watch line-up. Produced by the same Geneva enamel artisan that does the fired enamel, or grand feu, dials of the standard watch, this dial for the Only Watch example is the second one made, hence “version 2” on its packaging. Rexhep felt the first dial made was not up to scratch – it had too much variation in colour – and had a second one produced. And the first dial was finished only after a handful of trial runs, where it was established that the thinning effect of the hammered surface meant it could not be counter-enamelled on the back as the standard dials are. Aside from the hammered surface, the dial is also unique because the markings are painted in fired enamel, rather than printed. This makes the numbers, lines and text more substantial. And because the ena...
Revolution
For the 30th anniversary of the cult French film Le Grand Bleu, Revolution Switzerland joins Jaeger-LeCoultre and the film’s lead actor, Jean-Marc Barr, on a journey around Sicily to rediscover the film’s most stunning diving location, and to test the brand’s latest sports watch, of course!
Hodinkee
Ebel, once one of the most successful and top-selling Swiss watch brands, which has fallen into relative obscurity under the ownership of Movado Group, is being sold to a consortium of high-profile buyers, including François-Paul Journe and Chanel, who plan to revive the Ebel marque with hopes of returning it to its former glory. Vintage Ebel chronographs. Photo courtesy of Phillips; credit: James Kong. Movado Group, Inc. says it entered into a binding agreement to sell a 95% interest in the Ebel brand for $66.5 million to a strategic buyer group led by Geneva-based Montres Journe SA, with the participation of French luxury house Chanel and Pierre Jacques, a long-time industry executive. Jacques, who previously headed De Bethune for more than a decade, will take over as CEO of Ebel while Movado, with shares publicly listed on the New York Stock Exchange, which purchased the brand from LVMH in 2004, will retain a 5% stake in the business when the deal is completed, the parties said in a statement. The agreement underscores the growing business interest in reviving faded luxury Swiss watch brands once revered by watch consumers. Breitling paid more than CHF 60 million to acquire the Universal Genève brand and archives and relaunched it as a high-end luxury marque earlier this year. Ebel was once a major player in the industry, thriving during the quartz crisis era of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s under Pierre-Alain Blum, a third-generation leader of the family-owned busi...
Time+Tide
The House of Brands is looking to restore Gallet and Universal Genéve to their former glory; Kari Voutilainen and Alex Rosenfield relaunched Urban Jürgensen; and now Chanel and F.P. Journe will look to revitalise another cult classic watchmaker: Ebel. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Pierre Jacques (@pierre_jacques1) Earlier today, … Continued
Monochrome
In a recent announcement by the Movado Group, Ebel is set to be acquired by a strategic buyer group led by Montres Journe SA, with the participation of Chanel (partial owner of F.P. Journe) and industry veteran and ex-CEO of De Bethune, Pierre Jacques. The latter will serve as Chief Executive Officer of Ebel. The […]
Video
NOMOS invited me to Glashütte for Forum 2026! I go inside NOMOS HQ, Product Design, manufacturing + Chronometrie assembly, R&D swing system, and get hands-on with THE watch of the year - Club Sport Neomatik Worldtime...
SJX Watches
In a surprise move, a consortium led by Montres Journe and comprising Chanel and Pierre Jacques, the former chief executive of De Bethune, has acquired Ebel from its longtime American owners, the Movado Group. According to the deal announcement, the consortium is buying 95% of Ebel for US$66.5 million, with the remaining shares to be retained by Movado. The three-party consortium evidently brings different skills to the table, including the financial firepower of Chanel, the watchmaking know-how of François-Paul Journe, and the operational and managerial expertise of Mr Jacques. Movado, on the other hand, might be relieved to have unloaded Ebel, which it unsuccessfully tried to revive over its two decades of ownership. From left: François-Paul Journe, Efraim Grinberg of Movado, Frédéric Grangié of Chanel, and Pierre Jacques. Image – Pierre Jacques Once a high flying brand that was one of the biggest in Switzerland during its 1980s and 1990s heyday, Ebel was famous for its Sport Classique, often nicknamed “wave”, which featured integrated bracelets resembling a wave. Launched in 1977, the model launched Ebel into the stratosphere, with its workforce growing 15 times and revenue reaching nine figures. Ebel was led during this time by Pierre-Alain Blum, grandson of its founders and a shrewd marketer. In the year just after the Quartz Crisis, Ebel was a luxury giant. Amongst the indicators of Ebel’s success and scale during this period: Cartier turned to Ebel to p...
Time+Tide
For Zach, his favourite of the group has to be the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Here's why...
WatchAdvice
I take the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar hands-on to discover how the Maison has combined an ultra-thin complication with its first integrated bracelet design! What We Love: Impressively slim perpetual calendar architecture Beautifully executed integrated bracelet design Excellent proportions to suit a range of wrist sizes What We Don’t: Pink gold and toffee dial lack contrast Calendar adjustments still require a corrector No factory strap alternative currently offered Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.7/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a bold new direction for its Master Control collection with the introduction of the Master Control Chronomètre family. This new collection brings an integrated bracelet to the Maison for the very first time, while taking the traditional elegance of the Master Control and presenting it through a more contemporary design. Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On) Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Date and Master Control Chronomètre Date Power Reserve Reviews! The Master Control Chronomètre family introduces three new models: the Chronomètre Date, the Chronomètre Date Power Reserve and, lastly, the most complicated of the three, the Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar. Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Master ...
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection is a hit. Now we put the Date Power Reserve model under the microscope… What We Love Great integrated bracelet design, & a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre Super comfortable on the wrist Bridges both sports and dress watch genres easily What We Don’t No lume, so a better watch for day wear vs an all-around sports watch The bezel could be larger or have more detailing for greater balance Need a corrector tool to change the date, so it isn’t easy to do when out and about. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Mario has had his say on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date, but now it’s my turn, and for this review, I’m getting hands-on with the Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but that is ok, I’ll forgive Jaeger-LeCoultre as this is (spoiler alert) a fantastic watch that I really had a hard time faulting. Since seeing the full collection first-hand at Watches & Wonders this year, I had been keen on trying them for a longer-term review. I do love the rose gold variants, but the sensible part of me thought it best to give the steel version a try, as this is probably the more everyday-wearing watch, and design-wise, sits nicely between the date model and the perpetual calendar. First Impressions I’ll say this. My first impressions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomet...
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe and H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco have announced the creation of the one-off Chronographe Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco for the monarch’s upcoming charity auction. The Chronographe Fondation evolves the movement architecture of the Chronographe FB and adds the burgundy-and-bone livery that has become a calling card of the brand’s support for the Monaco-based charity. H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and François-Paul Journe. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts The design is undeniably busy with a mix contrasting colours and fonts. Yet taste is almost beside the point, since rare F.P. Journe watches with striking dials are amongst the hottest watches in the world at the moment. It also arrives amid sustained demand for unique watches created for charity. While unlikely to match the expected result of the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” set, it combines several proven ingredients that should supercharge its value. Stylistically, the watch is consistent with F.P. Journe’s three prior creations for the Foundation: the 2018 Chronographe Rattrapante, the Chronomètre Optimum of 2022, and the Chronomètre à Résonance of 2024. The latter hammered for US$2.98 million, setting a lofty precedent. The similar Chronographe FB retailed for CHF90,000 in 2024, but this point of reference is purely academic — uniqueness and charity will determine the result, and the Resonance result suggests both can overwhelm any conventional sense of value. Burgundy...
Video
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Automatic Date and Perpetual Calendar with ice-blue dials are two new limited editions within the collection. The 39 mm Automatic features a date at 6 o’clock, and the 40 mm Automatic Per...
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