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Deployant
Presenting full details and hands-on with The Citizen mechanical model features the newly-developed Caliber 0200 mechanical movement. This is a new mechanical movement, and the first to be developed by Citizen in-house since 2010, and the first developed in collaboration with their Swiss subsidiary Manufacture La Joux-Perret S. A. As we understand it, Citizen hasRead More
SJX Watches
Originally founded in 1962 to capitalise on the popularity of leisure diving at the time, Aquastar specialised in making diving instruments and notched up several patents, such as a “no-decompression” bezel. But like the rest of the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s, the Aquastar suffered during the Quartz Crisis and faded away, although it never really died. Now it’s been resurrected and makes it debut with, unsurprisingly, a vintage remake with the Deepstar Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Deepstar is obviously a watch of the 1960s, with the angular, tonneau-shaped case and dial design giving away its origins. The retro-diver look is now back in vogue, which was no doubt a reason behind the revival of the brand. And the popularity of the design is for good reason. It is clean and attractive, and unusual compared to today’s dive watches (although vintage remakes are increasingly common). The vintage Deepstar All of the best elements of the vintage original are found on the remake, including the oversized, “big eye” minute register. And though it’s larger than the 37 mm original – a necessity due to the La Joux-Perret movement inside – the remake is 40.5 mm, smallish by today’s standards, which means it still retains the vintage feel. Aside from the true-to-original grey dial, the Deepstar is also offered in black and blue, with an “early-bird” price of US$2,790 (which rises to US$3,590 after the initial run of 300 pieces in each colour). The pre-...
SJX Watches
A Singapore-based “micro brand”, Zelos Watches has found success with affordable sports watches, mostly priced at about US$1,000 or less, but often incorporating unusual materials such as carbon fibre or meteorite. But in a significant departure from its usual fare, Zelos has just unveiled the Mirage, a flying tourbillon powered by a calibre made by a noted Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret. With the case options including Timascus and mokume-gane, which are pattern-welded titanium and bronze respectively, the Mirage certainly sticks to the brand’s design ethos of exotic materials. Initial thoughts While it’s not surprising that the Mirage is substantially more expensive than Zelos’ past models, it is still good value for a watch featuring both a respectable tourbillon movement and an exotic-metal case. The case is sleek and modern, machined to create sharp, wide facets that give it an aggressive stance and complement the contemporary look of the movement. Of the three case materials on offer, the Timascus versions are the most intriguing. Typically found in high-end custom knives, Timascus is being used in a watch for the first time according to Zelos. Flying tourbillon In terms of complications, the Mirage is a radical departure from the brand’s previous offerings. Powered by a skeletonised flying tourbillon movement from La Joux-Perret, the Mirage enters the realm of technical horology. The movement is hand-wound, with its bridges and base plate coate...
SJX Watches
Having created a number of appealing and accessibly priced “tool” watches over the years including the Seastrong Diver Heritage and the KM-710, Alpina now unveils the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph, powered by a single-button chronograph movement supplied by its sister company, La Joux-Perret. The Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph is the second mechanical chronograph in the Alpina catalogue; the first was the Alpiner 4 Manufacture Flyback, which had a Valjoux 7750, likewise modified by La Joux-Perret to include a flyback function. The brand Alpina was actually founded over 130 years ago but fell victim to the quartz crisis in the 1970s. Then in 2002, it was acquired by Frederique Constant, which was itself then acquired by Citizen of Japan in 2016. Now, like its sister company Frederique Constant, it specialises in accessibly priced watches, made possible in part by the movement making expertise of La Joux-Perret. As with most Alpina watches, the Startimer Pilot Heritage chronograph combines retro design with modern dimensions and build. Its styling is recognisably 1970s, and evokes the experimental spirit of the era without being overtly flashy or eccentric. Measuring 42mm by 40.7mm, the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph features a cushion case with the chronograph pusher located at two o’clock. Like all cushion-cased watches of the 1970s, it has a radially brushed top surface and case band that are separated by a wide polished bevel, which enha...
Revolution
If you know vintage watches, you know Angelus. Manufacture La Joux-Perret is reviving the brand, and the first new watch is sure to be a surprise. To many collectors, Angelus is best known as a creator of great-looking chronographs and multi-complication watches, especially chronographs with date, day and moon phase displays. The brand’s notable firsts […]
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Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin releases four ultra-complicated watches as part of its 270th anniversary celebrations, all with astronomical themes.The post This quartet of Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête high complications honour 270 years of astronomic momentum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary tour de force continues with the La Quête Du Temps ‘Mecanique D’art’, a metre-tall astronomical clock, automata, and decorative object. While the brand teased us with the most complicated wristwatch ever made earlier this year, it’s been planning something much, much grander – a true monument to time. Initial thoughts I see La Quête Du Temps as part of a near millennia old tradition of astronomical clocks and mechanical follies. During the very late 12th century, an Artuqid king commissioned an exceptional astronomical water clock from famed Islamic inventor Ismail al-Jazari. Al-Jazari’s “castle clock” kept time, but only as an ancillary function. The clock tracked the passage of the sun, the passage and phase of the moon and the zodiacs, and on the sixth, ninth and twelfth hours a cast of five life-sized automata sprung to life, playing drums and trumpets to dazzle the royal court. Other kings commissioned similar astronomical clocks from inventor in their courts, as symbols of their power and sophistication. If not kings, it was congregations and city councils raising these models of the heavens on Earth as symbols of prosperity and prestige. And today, Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watch manufacturer, builds one for itself. The Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch yet made, was not the brand’s 270th anniversary flagship – this is. Image – Vacheron Constantin/Stephane Sby Balmy This year has been mor...
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department introduces a complete line up of one-off creations as part of their 2019 La Musique du Temps collection
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department introduces a complete line up of one-off creations as part of their 2019 La Musique du Temps collection
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux celebrates the Year of the Horse with an interesting watch they christened as the La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition.
Video
Microbrands have come a long way. What was once largely associated with inexpensive, enthusiast-driven watches has developed into a much broader part of the industry. Today, small brands are experimenting with materia...
Fratello
It certainly seems like 2025 is the year of anniversaries. Big names are celebrating many centuries of watchmaking, and many brands, young and old, are releasing exceptional commemorative creations. Some are intricate masterpieces that express their maker’s savoir-faire, while others represent an evolution of a historical benchmark creation. The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide is […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Roger Dubuis (RD) revisits its earliest triumph with the Hommage La Placide, a 28-piece limited edition that reimagines the brand’s signature bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. Named for the late Dubuis’ childhood Boy Scouts nickname, the Placide celebrates the classical roots of the Geneva-based manufacture while honouring the design codes that first put RD on the map three decades ago. Faithful to the originals yet refined in execution, the Placide reaffirms the brand’s ability to merge mechanical ingenuity with expressive design - a reminder that beneath its modern flamboyance lies genuine horological pedigree. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis today is best known for its over-the-top, modern design - skeletonised movements, sharp case lines, and a visual language that often borders on the theatrical. It’s a far cry from the brand’s origins three decades ago, when Dubuis himself was focused on classical watchmaking rooted in Genevan tradition. Paying tribute to those early creations, the Placide reimagines the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar that first established the horloger genevois 30 years ago. The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar was first conceived in the late 1980s, when Dubuis collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht to develop a novel perpetual calendar mechanism featuring twin retrograde indicators for Harry Winston. It was only in 1995, upon founding his own brand, that Dubuis introduced the complication ...
Deployant
Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide. Roger Dubuis is going back to it's roots by releasing a modern revival of the Hommage. Limited to 28 pieces.
Time+Tide
The Les Cabinotiers Homage to Epic Warriors Minute Repeater and The Labours of Heracles unite grand feu enamel and hand‑engraving.The post These Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers La Quête métiers d’art pieces tell centuries-old stories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Fire can be an absolutely devastating, unforgiving thing. We’ve all seen the harrowing images coming from LA, where wildfires have been wreaking havoc through large swathes of the coastal city. Thousands of people have lost everything, abandoning their homes and lives to escape the fire, with many tragically losing their lives as well. In a […]
Video
Germany versus Switzerland: five watch battles at five different price points — and I'm deciding every round myself.I compare five German watches against five Swiss watches, from under £1,000 to around £30,000, lo...
Monochrome
While Girard-Perregaux is currently associated with the sporty Laureato collection, the brand’s first brush with international fame was thanks to a historic watch known as La Esmeralda. Distinguished by its three gold bridges and tourbillon, Constant Girard’s La Esmeralda pocket watch won a gold medal at the 1889 Paris Universal Exhibition. Since then, the three […]
Time+Tide
The latest ode to Coco Chanel is the Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa. It shows Coco Chanel in a more androgynous style which she paved the way for in women’s fashion. The image is inspired from a photo at her La Pausa villa in 1930. As the only fashion designer to be named in Time … ContinuedThe post The Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa is a playful tribute to Coco Chanel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier is experiencing a mammoth resurgence under the watchful eye of Guido Terreni – we had a taste of this with their incredible releases from Watches & Wonders like the Tonda PF Skeleton. Today’s topic, however, honours the brand’s founder and master watchmaker, Michel Parmigiani. A special person deserves a special watch. This prompted … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Just in time for Halloween today, Louis Erard's new La Petite Seconde Louis Horror made in collaboration with seconde/seconde/.
Time+Tide
If you asked me which watch brands the mass marketplace needs to pay greater attention to, Parmigiani Fleurier would genuinely be on my list. In watchmaking, there are at times silent heroes who don’t get their due – even though they work with or supply movements to more household name brands. If you are a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The one-off Parmigiani Fleurier La Rose Carrée flexes the horological might of the manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
What was the ultimate decade for watches? And if you had to choose just one and could only wear watches from that period, which would you pick? They may sound like two straightforward questions, but they quickly becom...
Quill & Pad
The drama of Breguet's La Tradition lay – and continues to lie – in its stylistically vintage appearance coupled with a movement finished using historical techniques and the extreme visibility of the mechanical components from the dial side. Here Elizabeth Doerr looks at two new models for 2020 that are bound to make you a fan of the style.
Time+Tide
This year, Cartier are shining the spotlight on the pioneering age of aviation as a source of inspiration. And that brings to the fore the wristwatch that started it all, the Santos-Dumont. The model returned to prominence in 2019 with the quartz Cartier Santos-Dumont. While the Cartier family and Brazilian inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont are inexorably … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Our photo essay and commentary on the piéce unique Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers – La Caravelle 1950, showcasing the cloissoiné work of Anita Porchet.
Deployant
New Release: Corum announces a new collection: the La Grande Vie targeted at the entry level, 42mm titanium case with colour dials.
Deployant
Breguet’s 2010 novelties include a WG version of the La Tradition Tourbillon with fusee chain. As usual, clicking on the image will bring up a 1920 x 1080 screensaver. Detail of the fusee. Detail of the tourbillon Closeup of the movement
Video
Ever wonder how luxury watch brands really operate behind the scenes? In this video, I pull back the curtain and expose the hidden truths that collectors rarely see. From influencer and celebrity partnerships to “li...
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