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Results for Linde Werdelin

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Editorial: the Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise, Outliers, and Collection Coherence Worn & Wound
Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise Outliers Jul 24, 2024

Editorial: the Seiko SRPG17 Land Tortoise, Outliers, and Collection Coherence

Watch collectors who have been in the hobby for awhile know there’s a certain pleasure in looking in the watch box, or across the flat surfaces in your home where watches are scattered, whatever, and seeing a group of watches that make sense. If you believe a collection is a reflection of your personality and taste, it follows that the watches in the collection will be thematically linked in some way, and just kind of work together. Instead of a watch box that has exactly one watch from each key genre, you see a box of watches that defy easy categorization, but somehow are obviously the product of a core collecting philosophy. I don’t know if I’m quite there yet, but I’m getting closer. But there’s still one watch in my collection that’s a clear outlier, one that will never quite fit. It’s the runt of the litter, the redheaded step-child, and ugly duckling, all wrapped into one. My Seiko SRPG17 “Land Tortoise” just doesn’t belong.  The Land Tortoise, so named because it shares a case shape with the much-loved “Seiko Turtle” divers but is equipped with a compass bezel rather than a typical dive timer, is an outlier even among Seiko sports watches. When we think sporty Seikos, proper dive watches are the ones that inevitably come to mind for most of us, but this is a dive watch in a costume. From the outset, it’s resisting its own nature, rejecting its heritage. It refuses to wear the uniform. I like dive watches and own a few, but they don’t ope...

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Dec 23, 2025

Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

From one-off artistic creations to new escapement technologies, 2025 delivered more than its share of surprises and unexpected developments. Brands with institutional research and development departments led the way with unexpected material breakthroughs, while Geneva’s oldest watchmaker surprised (and delighted) with a clock of astronomical proportions. Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement - SJX Given its institutional nature, Rolex rarely surprises, but when it does, the brand does so in a big way. The Land-Dweller was unquestionably one of the biggest debuts from Rolex in a long time. The integrated bracelet design is certainly a departure from the prevailing house style, but the Land-Dweller is a landmark mainly for the movement inside, the cal. 7135 that boasts the Dynapulse escapement. While Rolex movements have enjoyed largely incremental improvements for years, the cal. 7135 in the Land-Dweller is a radical break because it’s an all-new movement with an all-new escapement. The Dynapulse escapement is one of the most forward-thinking inventions by Rolex, arguably ever. A double-wheel, detached and indirect-tangential impulse escapement, the Dynapulse is arguably among the most advanced escapements on the market today – and the cal. 7135 is probably the most precise self-winding movement on the market. More crucially, it is being produced at scale. A new escapement is an achievement, but a new escapement manufactured in large numbers is a bona fide fea...

Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar With A New Warm Silver-Gray Dial Fratello
Patek Philippe Ref 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Yesterday

Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar With A New Warm Silver-Gray Dial

History (almost) repeats itself. One of my favorite releases from Watches and Wonders 2021 was the Patek Philippe ref. 5236P-001 In-Line Perpetual Calendar. One of my favorite releases from this year’s edition is the Patek Philippe ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar. The difference is a single number and a different dial color. The complicated yet […] Visit Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-011 In-Line Perpetual Calendar With A New Warm Silver-Gray Dial to read the full article.

First Look – The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P Monochrome
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P Apr 22, 2026

First Look – The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P

Widely regarded as a technical and aesthetic masterpiece, Patek Philippe’s In-Line Perpetual Calendar returned in grand form at Watches & Wonders this year, alongside dozens of other new watches, in platinum with a silver dial. Displaying the day, date and month on a single line in a panoramic aperture at noon, few perpetual calendars can […]

Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Classic Fusion Line Fratello
Hublot Classic Fusion Line Jan 21, 2026

Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Classic Fusion Line

With LVMH Watch Week in full swing, Hublot proves to be one of the most active houses, releasing a host of new models. I already covered new additions to the Big Bang collection, Jorg covered the Djokovic LEs, and today, I return with more news from the Classic Fusion line. These new models include a […] Visit Introducing: New Additions To The Hublot Classic Fusion Line to read the full article.

Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Nov 12, 2024

Introducing – The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Line Expands with New Ceramic Models

A classic from Blancpain‘s range of sports watches, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is a sleeker and more daily-oriented vision of a dive watch. Available in a host of materials (titanium, gold or ceramic), in various sizes and with an array of complications, the brand now returns to classic functions with two new time-and-date editions and […]

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References Worn & Wound
Seiko KSK” Line Grows Once Sep 23, 2024

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References

When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...

Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107 Fratello
Seiko Line - SJE103 SJE105 Sep 10, 2024

Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107

Seiko introduces three new dial variants to its higher-end King Seiko models. These are last year’s SJE089/SJE091 under the hood but with fancy new dial textures and colors. This pushes them a bit further away from their austere 1965 KSK ancestor and into modern territories. Today, Seiko releases a lavender (SJE107), blue (SJE105), and red […] Visit Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107 to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Ref. 5236P-010 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Sep 9, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual “Rose Gilt” Ref. 5236P-010

Launched earlier this year as the second variant of the “linear” perpetual, following the original with a dark blue dial, the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-010 has a “rose-gilt opaline” dial – and was recently trending on social media for having been spotted on Facebook cofounder Mark Zuckerberg’s wrist. The symmetrical dial retains the signature calendar display in a single line under 12 o’clock, with hands and markers in black-coated white gold. It’s a cosmetic variation of the original in a currently fashionable colour, but the “salmon” dial arguably works best with the clean styling of the ref. 5236P, which is Patek Philippe’s most sophisticated perpetual calendar. Initial thoughts Officially “rose-gilt opaline”, the pink tone is often known as “salmon” and it’s probably the most fashionable colour now. While not too long ago Patek Philippe had no “salmon” dials in the regular production line up, today’s catalogue includes four. Even though the colour is in theory identical across the four current models with “rose-gilt opaline” dials, the effect varies depending on the dial finish; the ref. 5935A with guilloche dial is the most different. Of the four, the design of the ref. 5236P is the ideal complement to the “salmon” colour, even compared to the ref. 5320G-011 Perpetual Calendar that has a similar dial layout. The ref. 5320G-011. Image – Patek Philippe The pink finish is a strong colour that stan...

Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar Apr 26, 2024

Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar

The big news from Patek Philippe at this year’s Watches and Wonders came in “denim.” The pale blue dials and denim-look straps certainly drew the most attention. I would argue, however, that another watch deserves a bit more of a spotlight. Join me for a closer look at the Patek Philippe 5236P-010 in-line perpetual calendar […] Visit Hands-On With The New Salmon-Dial Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes a Triumphant Return Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes Apr 15, 2024

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Line Makes a Triumphant Return

When I say Jaeger LeCoultre, you say Reverso! Or Memovox! Or maybe Polaris! Or something to that effect. The point is that Jaeger LeCoultre, JLC to the cool kids, has a few iconic models immediately associated with its vaunted Maison. But the archives run deeper and into stranger horological territories. At Watches & Wonders 2024, JLC refreshed a lesser-known and appreciated line of watches epitomizing its watchmaking chops: the Duometre. First launched in 2007 with a chronograph, the Duometres presented a novel solution to an issue that concerns all watches with complications, that of the complications taking power out of the movement to function, thus decreasing the accuracy of the timekeeping and potentially power reserve. While a lesser issue in date complications, chronographs notoriously wreak havoc on a movement’s amplitude due to the power draw. But, JLC found a solution– to have separate barrels and gear trains for timekeeping and everything else, linked by the escapement. Hence, “duo.” The resulting watches and calibers are dramatic, to say the least. The movements are massive and ornate, with pronounced barrels on one side. To wind the movement, you turn the crown one way and then the other, like a ratcheting system, winding both barrels. Dial side, the duo concept is further played out with the hour and minutes displayed on a decentralized smaller dial to one side of the larger dial and the complication on the other. The seconds, however, is displayed a...

Introducing – The Strikingly Beautiful Patek Philippe 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar with a Salmon Dial Monochrome
Patek Philippe 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Strikingly Beautiful Patek Philippe 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar with a Salmon Dial

In 2021, Patek Philippe unveiled the Perpetual Calendar 5236P, a timepiece that stood out with its patented in-line display, ensuring exceptional legibility – we explored this remarkable addition to the Grand Complications collection in detail. The latest version retains the essence of its predecessor while showcasing a stunning salmon-coloured dial. This iteration of the watch […]

Watch enthusiasts could not care less about this Rolex line, but celebrities seem to love the Pearlmaster. Why? Time+Tide
Rolex line but celebrities seem Jan 28, 2024

Watch enthusiasts could not care less about this Rolex line, but celebrities seem to love the Pearlmaster. Why?

Watch enthusiasts and collectors could not care less about the Rolex Pearlmaster, yet many celebrities have been seen sporting various references of it...The post Watch enthusiasts could not care less about this Rolex line, but celebrities seem to love the Pearlmaster. Why? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions Time+Tide
IWC s Pilot’s Watch line-up Mar 28, 2023

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions

For Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC have introduced three new references of IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Among the new trio are new cases in Oceana blue ceramic and 18k 5N gold. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is also now available with a racing green dial. IWC releasing more variety of Pilot’s Watches should … ContinuedThe post IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christopher Ward’s C65 Line Gets a Sandy Update with the Dune Series Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward s C65 Line Gets Jan 26, 2023

Christopher Ward’s C65 Line Gets a Sandy Update with the Dune Series

For the last few months, Christopher Ward has received an unprecedented amount of attention from watch media and the enthusiast public for the release of the Bel Canto, a genuine industry phenomenon that has won over collectors of all stripes. The release was honestly timed just about perfectly, allowing the brand to get it into the hands of fans just ahead of the holiday shopping season and all of the listmaking that tends to happen at the end of the year, where the Bel Canto figured prominently. Supplemental releases in additional colorways have since sold out, and it appears that CW is ready to ride the Bel Canto wave throughout 2023 as the chiming watch is delivered to anxiously awaiting enthusiasts. But the first non Bel Canto related release of the year is something of a return to Christopher Ward’s tool watch roots. No chiming here, and no exposed mechanisms on the dial, showing that Christopher Ward is not moving directly into the haute horlogery sphere just yet.  The new C65 Dune series takes the popular C65 sports watch format into a desert inspired aesthetic. The trio of watches is named after Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, and each watch makes use of tan and beige tones to underline a sandy theme. These are not hardcore tool watches in the traditional sense, though. They make use of Christopher Ward’s excellent “Light-Catcher” case finishing, which highlights unexpected bevels and undercuts in the complex case geometry and adds just a ...

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5236P In-line Perpetual Dec 29, 2021

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...