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Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review INTRODUCTION Sep 3, 2020

Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review

INTRODUCTION: Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status.  In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020.  Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving.  Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’.  FIRST IMPRESSIONS:  I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santo...

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All New Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review Simplicity Aug 25, 2020

All New Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review

Simplicity is complexity On August 25th, 2020, Ulysse Nardin unveiled their latest timepiece. A timepiece that is bound to send shockwaves throughout the watchmaking world. The Ulysse Nardin Blast comes as part of the brand’s executive collection, which features audacious timepieces that cement Ulysse Nardin’s legacy as a permanent innovator. You can check out the brand’s website here and find where you can see these amazing timepieces in person here. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Blast was created by drawing inspiration from a variety of sources. From fire and ice, magma and glaciers, violent lava eruptions and cascading ice shelves to mechanical, aeronautical marvels of fighter jets and stealth aircraft.  Just as incredible and powerful as earth and mother nature is with its wild extremities, the Ulysse Nardin Blast is comparatively a potent force in the watchmaking world. This technological wonder has a masculine design, from different shapes and sharp lines to an open-worked dial that is finished off with a tourbillon.  To encompass this latest creation, Ulysse Nardin is partnering up with Carsten Peter, a World Press Photo award winner who photographs some of the most extreme conditions on the surface of the Earth. His thirst for daunting and dangerous adventure to capture some of the most incredible photos has taken him to places many would dare not go; into tornadoes, over glaciers, and as close as possible to the intense heat of volcanoes. Carsten Peter h...

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Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review Aug 13, 2020

Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review

Since its introduction to market in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer has been a hallmark of not only Breitling as a brand, but the luxury watch industry at large. When one thinks of pilots watches, the Breitling Navitimer is principal amongst those thoughts. Traditionally the Navitimer is a large, bold timepiece, designed for not only legibility but practicality.  It is the principal purpose of the Navitimer that it be practical in almost any aviation endeavour. To achieve its purpose, Breitling equipped the Navitimer with its signature slide rule bezel. The slide rule bezel is the watches bi-directional rotating bezel, traditionally adorned with a number of mathematical conversion scales which, when used in conjunction with the watches other signature function, a chronograph, is able to decipher a variety of equations useful to Pilots prior to electronic monitoring devices becoming commonplace in cockpits.  So when Breitling launched the paired down Navitimer 35 as part of their ground-breaking digital launch earlier in 2020, it would be fair to say that the new chronograph-less timepiece left me with some reservations. Firstly, the elephant in the room, this is the first ever 35mm mechanical Navitimer that the brand has launched. It shows the brands commitment to trimming the diameter of its timepieces, and its push into smaller wristed markets. This may seem like a good thing in a vacuum, however, instead of leaning into the size down, Breitling market the Navitimer 35 a...

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Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review Aug 6, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review

Innovation is a word that is symbolic of the famous Swiss watch brand Ulysse Nardin. The brand has created some fantastic movements as well as designs that defy belief. A true testament to this is Ulysse Nardin’s Skeleton X model. Released back in 2019, the Skeleton X model belongs to Ulysse Nardin’s Executive collection. A collection which has been disrupting the watchmaking industry, with timepieces inspired by the sea.  The Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X comes in Titanium, Titanium Black, Rose Gold, and Carbonium case design, with all of them having the same skeleton dial design and movement. It does also come in two sizes; a 42mm and 43mm case size.  Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X – 42mm Case We have our hands on the 42mm Skeleton X in titanium black DLC. Ulysse Nardin has drawn inspiration from the letter X for the design of the skeleton dial. As the brand put it themselves “more than a means, exploring has become Ulysse Nardin’s motivation. The X-factor is the answer: X like an adventure, X like our deepest desires, X for the unknown, X for what’s forbidden, bold and exciting.” The hour indices at 1 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 7 o’clock and 11 o’clock are partially connected to form the “X” shape.  The hour indices at 1 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 7 o’clock and 11 o’clock are partially connected to form the “X” shape The open-worked dial on the Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X takes skeletonisation to new heights. Only the bare necessities are left on the moveme...

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HANDS-ON: The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula OneTM Team” Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 May 5, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula OneTM Team”

When the new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection was unveiled last year, watch buyers rejoiced in its more compact sizing and increased versatility – introducing a bracelet for the first time and the all new Eas-XCHANGE® quick-release strap system. While pilot’s watches are what IWC is particularly known for, the Schaffhausen manufacture has been … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula OneTM Team” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Formula 1 season preview - the teams and watch brands partnering up for 2021 Time+Tide
Rolex hands ticking into position Mar 25, 2021

Formula 1 season preview - the teams and watch brands partnering up for 2021

As the anticipation rises and the desert air shakes from F1 engines firing up, before the five lights go out at the 2021 season-opening Bahrain Grand Prix, we will see the Rolex hands ticking into position, ready to start racing. Time+Tide will, of course, have watches on the mind. Any sport associated with speed and … ContinuedThe post Formula 1 season preview – the teams and watch brands partnering up for 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO SJX Watches
Breguet hands Aug 29, 2020

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO

I love the Tank Cintrée, and that was the starting point for the Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO. Cartier’s simple, unchanging designs are unique in watchmaking, despite being made up of classical elements like Breguet hands and Roman numerals. In fact, the Cartier can be distilled into a few key elements iterated across different case forms, which together make up a family of distinctive designs. My favourite Cartier design has long been the Tank Asymetrique – which Cartier just reissued this year – but it is not an especially ergonomic watch due to the case shape and the fact that the crown sits fairly low such that it touches the wrist. Though known as a Tank today, the Asymetrique is not strictly a Tank, since the vintage originals were a distinct model sometimes known as the Parallélogramme. A 1927 Tank Cintrée that sold for US$350,000 at Phillips in 2017 The Tank Cintrée, on the other hand, is an eminently wearable watch that is wonderfully elegant on the wrist. It just wears well. And the Cintrée is also an important design. Though it was not the first Tank design, the Cintrée – the word is French for “curved” – is perhaps the quintessential case shape. And partly for those reasons, it is arguable the most desirable, going by the six-figure results at auction for vintage specimens. Familiar yet different The Eminence Grise was my third special-dial Cartier, sometimes known as NSO, short for “new special order”. The first was also a Ta...

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LOOKBOOK: Dude, Where’s Your Watch? Summer Edition Time+Tide
Ming their frost-bitten hands over Jan 17, 2017

LOOKBOOK: Dude, Where’s Your Watch? Summer Edition

  While the watch world’s glitterati (including a fair chunk of Team T+T) shiver in Geneva, warming their frost-bitten hands over pots of fondue, those of us left here in Australia are enjoying a lovely summer. Conjure the usual stereotypes: prawns, barbecues etc. You get the picture. Of course, an overall coating of perspiration and seafood … ContinuedThe post LOOKBOOK: Dude, Where’s Your Watch? Summer Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: Big-hearted - the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Time+Tide
IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Oct 24, 2018

HANDS-ON: Big-hearted - the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase

Few things are as tactile and pleasing as manually winding a watch, and I’ve got to say the levels of satisfaction achieved in watching the power reserve indicator on this plus-sized IWC Portofino are pretty intense. On one level it’s because there’s a lot of winding to be had, thanks to the eight days of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Big-hearted – the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2 Jan 21, 2025

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2

In a fortuitous turn of events, Mark Zuckerberg was spotted with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 just a week ago – just in time for the debut of the Hand Made 2. Unlike its predecessor that was equipped with a tourbillon, the Hand Made 2 is “merely” a three-hander with a power reserve indicator, presented in a more compact case that’s just under 41 mm. But like the first model, the Hand Made 2 is mostly made with traditional, hand-operated tools – specifically, 96% of the watch is made this way, an endeavour that requires 5,000 hours of work according to Greubel Forsey. (NB: The watch pictured is a prototype and is not perfectly clean.) Initial thoughts The Hand Made 2 is essentially the Hand Made 1 scaled down in every respect – dimensions, complexity, and price – except for the manual production methods and fine finishing, which remain impressive and outstanding. Even at arm’s length the quality of the Hand Made 2 is obvious. Up close, it is evident all of the details have been properly taken care of. As it was with the Hand Made 1, the second edition is also impressive for what cannot be seen – tolerances and precision that are equivalent to Greubel Forsey’s serial-production watches made with automated equipment. Achieving that with manual equipment is impressive and no doubt explains a good deal of the price. Surprisingly, the Hand Made 2 looks more complicated than its predecessor, despite doing away with the tourbillon. That’s because the archit...

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Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Apr 14, 2025

Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades

Of course, I was impressed by the new Land-Dweller, but I wasn’t charmed by it. To be honest, it’s been a while since The Crown launched a watch that charmed me. Yes, every watch is of superb build quality and a benchmark, but just like a Mercedes S-class, a modern Rolex is not exactly lovable. […] Visit Hands-On With The With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual In Two Of Three Soft New Shades to read the full article.

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The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Mar 1, 2024

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph

We get our hands on this motorsports-oriented chronograph ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 World Championship kicking off this weekend.The post The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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