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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Grand Seiko Watches Of All Time Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Feb 20, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Grand Seiko Watches Of All Time

Choosing a favorite Grand Seiko was bound to be one of the more difficult prompts we could give to the Teddy editorial team. One of the most beloved watch brands out there, Grand Seiko has been around since 1960 but only began distributing internationally in 2010 and didn’t become a truly independent brand until 2017. Old-timers will recall the days when it was truly difficult to get your hands on what is now the Japanese luxury watch giant. Ironically the SBGA211, aka the "Snowflake," didn’t make the list here, which actually says a lot about the sheer volume of excellent pieces Grand Seiko has released over the years. So let us get to our editors’ picks for their favorite Grand Seiko of all time and, as usual, make sure to share your own pick. Oh, and for the first time since we started doing these editors' picks, two team members individually landed on the same watch... Mark Bernardo: Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Unlike many other choices for these Editor’s Picks lists, my favorite Grand Seiko timepiece was relatively easy to identify - because it is the watch with the most intriguing backstory as well as the type of pop-cultural, collaborative piece that the luxury brand is unlikely to ever make again. The Grand Seiko Godzilla 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, released in 2019, commemorated a pair of seemingly unrelated anniversaries that occurred that year: 65 years since the release of the original, iconic Godzilla movie by Toho Ltd. in 1954, a...

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A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

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Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Nov 1, 2024

Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time

Created in collaboration with the aviators of Aéronautique Navale, the air branch of the French navy, the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time is Tudor’s latest wristwatch developed for a militaruunit. A sibling of Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” issued to French navy divers, the Pelagos GMT Zulu Time is housed in a titanium Pelagos case with fixed lug bars (hence “FXD”). Featuring a ceramic bezel with a luminescent 24-hour scale, the Pelagos GMT adds the long-awaited second time zone function to the Pelagos line of professional-spec dive watches. It sports a bright orange GMT hand along with faux-vintage, vanilla-tone block markers and “snowflake” hands. Initial thoughts Tudor was a historical supplier of watches to the French navy starting in the 1950s, a relationship that was revived in 2021 with the Pelagos FXD. The Pelagos GMT continues the partnership, but pivots to address the needs of naval pilots instead of divers. This also makes it more useful for civilians, since a dual time zone function is more practical for most than a deep-sea diver’s watch. At 42 mm in diameter, however, the Pelagos GMT is one of Tudor’s larger watches, which means it probably isn’t as handy for traveling as the compact Black Bay 58 GMT that’s just 39 mm. Still, the titanium case helps with lightness, and the large size suits the military design. In typical Tudor fashion, the Pelagos GMT is an excellent value proposition. For US$4,625, you get a titanium case with ceramic bezel,...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue SJX Watches
Breitling s B01 but upgraded Aug 30, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue

Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...

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Introducing – The Boutique-Only Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Monochrome
Breitling derived automatic movement including Aug 28, 2024

Introducing – The Boutique-Only Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue

First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]

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Introducing – The Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 and SBGA509 Monochrome
Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 Aug 5, 2024

Introducing – The Grand Seiko 44GS “Kirazuri” US-Exclusive SBGA507 and SBGA509

Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection is often synonymous with wonderfully textured and subtly coloured dials, including Monochrome’s all-time favourites, the Snowflake and the Shunbun. Reflecting the Japanese reverence for nature, many GS dials capture the colours and textures of natural landmarks and seasonal changes using time-honoured artisanal techniques. Created exclusively for the US market, Grand Seiko […]

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jul 19, 2024

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley”

Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...

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The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB Jul 4, 2024

The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic VCARB is Now Regular Production

Several months back, Tudor quietly released the Black Bay Ceramic Blue exclusively for the Visa Cash App RB (VCARB) Formula One team, with the dial colour modelled on the Visa logo. Today, the watch is available to the public (while the VCARB drivers will sport the more recent rainbow-dial “Chameleon” edition). Initial thoughts Tudor often listens to its audience, giving them what they want. Examples include the more compact Black Bay 58 GMT, and now the Black Bay Ceramic Blue. Intrinsically, the new Black Bay is technically and aesthetically perfect in its own way. It is the same Black Bay that has remained the brand’s bestseller since its launch, but in an unusual combination of black ceramic and blue. The brand has rolled out a number of special editions recently, which might dilute the concept somewhat. That said, this is the first instance of a publicly available Black Bay Ceramic special edition (unlike say the Black Bay 58), which makes it appealing. That said, the Black Bay Ceramic Blue is a great value proposition, as is usually the case for Tudor. It combines a ceramic case with an impressively spec’ed in-house movement that’s both METAS- and COSC-Certified, all for US$5,150, a price that few can rival. Visa Blue The highlight of the new Black Bay Ceramic is the matte blue dial (that’s arguably similar to the discontinued Rolex Submariner “Smurf” ref. 116619). It’s matched with applied hour markers and snowflake hands filled with white Super-Lum...

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[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome May 30, 2024

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II

It’s been a few months since the end of Watches and Wonders, and the world of watches is starting to feel a little bit more normal again. There aren’t dozens of watches fighting for your attention in countless new release articles. What is happening though is many of these watches  are making their way into the hands of enthusiasts and first impressions and #NWAs are starting to trickle out with the best and brightest that Watches and Wonders had to offer. One such beneficiary of these new watches hitting the streets is yours truly. I got a brief hands-on with the new Tudor Black Bay 41 “Monochrome” during a pop in at the W&W; HQ, and spent just enough time with it to walk away with a few solid first impressions.  Tudor DNA Distilled Into A Single Watch One of the first things I noticed about the BB41 Monochrome is just how Tudor it really is. The snowflake hands pop off the contrasting black dial, the 60-click bezel clicks past markings with an authoritative snap, and polished slab sides make up the bulk of the height of the watch. The dial is clean and easy to read, not a hint of fauxtina in sight. There’s no date, which keeps things super simple. Two lines of text is just the right amount of words to let you know how deep you can dive and that your watch will be very, very accurate (as far as mechanical watches go, at least). Upon closer inspection, the dial features a more interesting finish than it first leads on. It’s satin-finished with a slight sunburs...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 GMT SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 13, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement. Initial thoughts Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro. While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment. The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours. Vintage-inspired and travel-ready The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the ...

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The New Grand Seiko SLGH021 Genbi Valley Hi-Beat Two Broke Watch Snobs
Grand Seiko SLGH021 Genbi Valley Hi-Beat Apr 9, 2024

The New Grand Seiko SLGH021 Genbi Valley Hi-Beat

We love new Grand Seiko releases. And on top of that, sometimes we enjoy making fun of new Grand Seiko releases. Really, it all comes from a good place and I have to admit-as gimmicky as some of the releases are, every once in a while Grand Seiko nails it. It's how I feel about the new 9F Quartz Snowflake, by the way. While it's still a random nature-inspired watch, I'm finding the Grand Seiko SLGH021 Genbi Valley to be one of the most visually attractive releases of Watches & Wonders 2024, so far.

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The Grand Seiko Media Experience: An Enthusiast’s Observations (with Photos!) Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Media Experience Feb 22, 2024

The Grand Seiko Media Experience: An Enthusiast’s Observations (with Photos!)

The Grand Seiko Media Experience is a whirlwind tour of several Grand Seiko/Seiko facilities across Japan. It’s designed to immerse journalists with a precursory knowledge of the brand in its culture, capabilities, processes, and goods while also giving a flavor of Japan itself. As one of four media invited to go last fall from the US and UK, I was delighted by the opportunity, but my goals were different, I believe, than those of my fellow attendees. You see, I am what you might call a Grand Seiko nerd. I have reviewed several of their watches (such as the Snowflake and White Birch), served on a panel of their GS9 event, espoused my affection for the brand in a video with fellow Worn & Wound colleagues, and, perhaps most importantly, owned several of their timepieces (and still do). My goal during this trip was less to learn about the brand, though any information I could gleam would be valued, rather to further my appreciation for their craft and better understand the people who put my (and your) watches together. The newest Grand Seiko boutique in Ginza, located on Namiki Street Now, I could take you through each stop we made, every meeting we had, and each lecture or interview from an esteemed member of the Grand Seiko and Seiko ranks (including Mr. Hattori) we took, but I feel that article has been written. Instead, I want to tell you about how it affected me from the perspective of the Grand Seiko enthusiast I claim to be. And there will be lots of photos to show t...

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Grand Seiko Celebrates 20 Years of 9R Spring Drive SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Celebrates 20 Years Feb 7, 2024

Grand Seiko Celebrates 20 Years of 9R Spring Drive

Grand Seiko is celebrating the 20th anniversary of 9R Spring Drive movement with a pair of limited editions featuring dials inspired by the sunrise at Mount Hotaka, a peak near the Grand Seiko workshop in Shiojiri. The first model is the Heritage Collection Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary “Pink Snowflake” (SBGA497) that revisits the first ever watch model with the 9R but with the trademark “snowflake” dial in pink. And the second is the Sports Collection Spring Drive GMT Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary (SBGE305) combining a black ceramic bezel with a dark red sunburst dial. Initial Thoughts The invention of the Spring Drive calibre is arguably one of Seiko’s most important achievements. It encompasses most of the advantages of mechanical movement while retaining the accuracy of quartz. Similar to a fully mechanical movement, it is powered by a spring rather than a battery, while timekeeping is regulated by a quartz crystal. As the first-ever commercially available Spring Drive variant, 9R marks an important feat for Grand Seiko. Nevertheless, despite the two new releases being celebratory models for the 20th anniversary of the 9R Spring Drive movement, they don’t seem to offer anything remarkable or unprecedented. Rather, the choice of a Hotaka mountain-inspired dial for both watches seems cliche, considering how pink and red colour dials have been relatively common in the brand’s catalogue. Plus, the inspiration behind Grand Seiko’s dial seems rather repetitive, a...

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What is the Cheapest Grand Seiko? Five Models You Can Buy for Under $5 Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jan 25, 2024

What is the Cheapest Grand Seiko? Five Models You Can Buy for Under $5

Since its high-profile launch to international markets outside its native Japan in 2010, and its subsequent relaunch as an independent watchmaker separate from parent brand Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko has become a Holy Grail for many an avid watch enthusiast. Now firmly established, for many, as an upper-echelon luxury brand on the level of Rolex and Omega, Grand Seiko has cultivated its own loyal core of fans - including many budding collectors new to the watch game who might be initially intimidated by the cost of some of the manufacture’s most exclusive, high-profile timepieces. Fortunately, the price of admission to Grand Seiko ownership is actually more reasonable than you might have been led to believe, at least at the entry-level. Here are five Grand Seiko watches, representing a range of product families and movement styles, that fall on the more affordable side of the luxury spectrum.  Cheapest Grand Seiko “Snowflake:” STGF359 ($2,300) Among the most coveted models from Grand Seiko are the so-called ‘snowflake” editions, so nicknamed for their white, elegantly textured dials, made of stamped brass with a silver-plated finish, meant to evoke the blankets of fresh snow on the peaks of the Hokata Mountains that surround Seiko’s Shinshu Watch Studio in Japan’s Nagano Prefecture. The first “snowflake” was the legendary and now very collectible SBGA011, and other models have adopted the motif since then, most of them on the higher end of the brand’...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay GMT in Opaline Silver SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay GMT in Opaline Silver

One of the strongest value propositions at Watches & Wonders is from an unsurprising contender, Tudor. Not entirely new but still compelling, the Black Bay GMT is a new version of the brand’s travel staple, now facelifted with a silver dial that brings to mind the mythical Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Initial thoughts  Since its release in 2018, the Black Bay GMT has been a crowd pleaser, and the newest variant will be as well. Its tangible features like the in-house calibre are obvious, and less apparent is the subtle historical connection. While a silver dial on a sport watch isn’t novel, this is particularly notable for the unspoken reference to the historical Rolex GMT-Master with a white dial reputedly made for Pan American Airways. The fact that the GMT-Master “Pan Am” is so famous yet controversial in terms of provenance  gives this Black Bay GMT an amusing and interesting historical angle. Apart from the dial, there is no difference between this and the version with a black dial that came before. The price remains unchanged, and it still offers great value for money.  The only criticism that I have is the same as for the earlier version: the case is chunky at 41 mm in diameter; the case is thick as well. I’m certain a more compact Tudor GMT model will arrive one day, especially with the just-launched Black Bay 54 that is 37 mm. Opaline dial The dial on the new Black Bay GMT retains the same dial layout with “snowflake” hands, including its lozen...

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The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Mar 28, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial

The Tudor Black Bay GMT is now available with an opaline white dial. Paired with the Snowflake hand set, it makes for a refreshing look. The blue and burgundy bezel looks more vibrant in contrast. Although last year’s Watches & Wonders held thunderous announcements for Tudor’s GMT fans thanks to the Black Bay Pro and … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay GMT with a wintery white dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGZ009 Mar 27, 2023

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail

The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a hand-made Micro Artist Studio creation displaying the ultimate finishing of the manufacture. This unofficial sequel to the SBGZ001 is white-birch driven versus snowflake driven. Will GS collectors feel like the SBGZ009 steps on the toes of SBGZ001 owners?. If you’re just starting your journey into Grand Seiko enthusiasm, … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 17, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”

Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...

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Up Close: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow on Blue Lake” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow Nov 26, 2021

Up Close: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow on Blue Lake”

For the third year running Grand Seiko’s distributor in Southeast Asia gets a limited edition exclusively available in the markets it represents, namely Brunei, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Singapore. Following the large and sporty “Champagne Diamond” of 2020, this year’s edition is just right in terms of size, style and function. The Heritage Collection SBGH287 “Snow on Blue Lake” is classic Grand Seiko – it’s an automatic with time and date – in a compact, 40 mm package that’s quintessential Grand Seiko in style. But its best feature – as is often the case with Grand Seiko limited editions – is the textured dial that’s finely grained and rendered in pale blue, a colour meant to evoke fresh snow as it reflects the colour of the blue sky. Initial thoughts Going by its previous editions, it is clear that Grand Seiko’s representative in the Southeast Asia, Thong Sia Group, has a good eye. With the brand already offering a seemingly endless stream of iterations in familiar colours and textures, it is surely challenging to conceive of something that combines existing elements while still being unusual and tasteful, but Thong Sia and Grand Seiko aced it. With its light blue palette, the dial of the SBGH287 calls to mind past models like the SBGA407 “Blue Snowflake” and SBGY007 “Omiwatari”, but its texture is different from either of the two. The finish is granular and slightly sparkly, living up to its snowy nickname. Dial aside, the ...

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Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Nov 10, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”

Earlier this year Tudor resurrected its partnership with France’s navy, the Marine Nationale, some two decades after it last supplied military-spec Submariners to the navy’s divers. Now the brand has finally revealed a project two years in the making, the Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale”. Developed together with the members of the Commando Hubert, the navy’s elite combat divers, the Pelagos FXD is an actual military issue timepiece – the unit’s divers wear the same watch during operations – with fixed bars and a no-nonsense aesthetic. The Pelagos FXD is a time-only diver just like the Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to divers of the French navy in the 1970s Initial thoughts Images of a Commando Hubert graduation ceremony appeared online several months ago, revealing the watch. So the Pelagos FXD was expected, but still manages to surprise. It is clearly a nod to the ref. 9401/0 “MN” of the 1970s – nicknamed “snowflake” after its hands and dial – and is as close to a vintage Submariner as a modern Tudor can be. But it still has a few extras appeal to military watch aficionados. The fabric strap has a Velcro fastener so it can be adjusted more precisely to any wrist size Most notable are the lugs, which are a reinterpretation of the fixed bars found on vintage military-issue dive watches. They form one piece with the case, making the connection between the case and strap far more robust. It’s certainly over-engineered for anyone who isn...

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