Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Surveying The Last 25 Years Of Pilot's Watches At Breguet
The forgotten gems inside Breguet's Type XX collection.
Results for Type XX
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Type XX Breguet
The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition
While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...
Revolution
Introducing the USD325 UNDONE Tropical Dial Type 20 for The Rake & Revolution
We’ve partnered up with UNDONE to create the 300-piece limited edition Tropical Dial Type XX, with USD50 from the sale of each watch committed towards the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride 2020 charity fund.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium
Breguet today is highly regarded for its watches that classically designed but often powered by innovative, high-tech movements, like the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots, or the recent, elaborately finished skeleton tourbillon 5395. The brand is not, however, known for its luxury-sports watches (its line of Type XX aviator’s chronographs are entry-level and not quite sports watches). But last year Breguet unveiled the latest – and best – version of its luxury-sports watch, the Marine 5517. An under-appreciated contender in the category, the new Marine more conservative in style than its competition, but built to an admirably high standard. The Marine 5517 in titanium with a matching bracelet Horloger de la Marine Unlike its competitors, Breguet was relatively late to the luxury-sports watch segment (though not as late as A. Lange & Söhne, which launched the Odysseus last year); the original Marine only made its debut in 1990. The model name was inspired by Breguet’s appointment in 1815 as Horloger de la Marine – clockmaker to the French navy, an appointment it held for over 150 years. Designed by Jorg Hysek, perhaps the most famous watch designers of the 1990s, the first-generation Marine was distinguished by its fluted, domed crown, but otherwise looked pretty much like any other Breguet. That was replaced in 2005 by the second generation, a major redesign that gave it a more distinctive style. The practical robustness of the Marine...
Time+Tide
Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019
Only Watch 2019 is now less than 24 hours away from kicking off, and Breguet has really knocked it out of the park with their entry in this year’s charitable auction. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2019 is, I think we can all agree, a handsome timepiece, and that’s largely because the pièce unique … ContinuedThe post Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Hands-On With Omega’s Two New James Bond Seamasters
Omega launches not just one watch—but actually four new Seamasters. Two of them are the focus here since they're not limited and are additions to the main collection. Let's get one thing out of the way first—if yo...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Breguet Type 20 for Only Watch 2019
Breguet’s contribution to the most recent Only Watch auction in 2017 was a unique, enlarged version of its inventive in-line perpetual calendar that had the calendar indications arranged in a column vertically across the dial. Though clever and unusual, the watch was probably too esoteric and classical for current tastes, and it sold for 110,000 Swiss francs, just 10% above the high estimate, reputedly to a discerning collector in Australia. This year’s upcoming Only Watch, however, includes a very different Breguet that should sell for a multiple of its estimate. The Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 is essentially a spot-on replica of the two-register aviator’s chronograph Breguet supplied to the French military from the mid 1950s – exactly the type of watch that is desirable now. Specifically, it’s a remake of the first generation Type 20, which was marked “5101/54” on the case back, denoting the order number, “5101”, and the year of 1954. More specifically, it’s based on the Type 20 made for the French air force, distinguished by equal-sized sub-dials; watches for the naval air arm had oversized minute counters. Named after the French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, itself derived from the Second World War German air force chronograph design, the original Type 20s were produced by a variety of watchmakers, including Vixa, Dodane, and Auricoste. Breguet examples, however, are the most valuable. Note that “Type XX” refers to the same...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019
Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”, and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...
Fratello
It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph
It was April 2024 when I saw some of the Albishorn models — prototypes at that stage — for the first time. At Watches and Wonders, it’s easy to get watch overload already on the first day. I remember sitting at the table between two meetings, holding the Type X and thinking, “Wow, I’ve never […] Visit It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph to read the full article.
Fratello
Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock
Recently, Lex wrote an article asking, “When are watches art?” Of course, there wasn’t a clear answer, as “art” is often an ungraspable concept. However, every once in a while, Benoît Mintiens makes the dial of a Ressence watch available to an artist dear to the Belgian brand. In doing so, he tries to blur […] Visit Get Lost In Ressence’s New Type 9 Art Watch By Belgian Artist Jules Wittock to read the full article.
WristBuzz
Benrus Type 3X: A New Chapter in Military Watch History, Built with Special Forces Veterans
Benrus isn't just reissuing old hits this time. The Type 3X is something genuinely new, and it has some serious input behind it.
Video
The Ultimate 3 Watch Collection Under 5K + Breitling's Miles Davis B09 Navitimer: Cash Grab Or Cool?
On today's live show we discuss the recent limited edition Breitling Navitimer, released on the centennial of Miles Davis’ birth, and inspired by the jazz legend’s personal ref. 806 Mk5, paired with the revived Ai...
Monochrome
First Look - The Albishorn Type X-Graph, A Transparent Prototype Before the Type 20
Following the Maxigraph, the Marinagraph, the Thundergraph, the original Type 10 Chronograph and the later cream-dial Type 10 Officer, the young Albishorn brand returns to its fictional military aviation universe with the new Type X-Graph. Once again, founder Sébastien Chaulmontet and designer Fabien Collioud explore the idea of a watch that never existed but could […]
SJX Watches
Albishorn’s Type 10 Officer Takes Flight
The Albishorn Type 10 Officer is the latest expression of the brand’s “imaginary vintage” philosophy, reworking the familiar codes of the mid-century military chronograph through the lens of a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. Conceived by founder Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet, the cream-dialled Officer pairs its distinctive, parchment-like textured dial with a proprietary monopusher movement derived from a re-engineered Valjoux 7750 architecture, combining COSC-certified performance with thoughtful ergonomic and aesthetic refinements at a price that undercuts many conventional aviation-inspired chronographs. Initial thoughts Military aviation-inspired watches are a cornerstone of the luxury watch market, but most pay homage to specific historical references like the famed Type 20 of the 1950s. In contrast, the Albishorn Type 10 proposes to ‘recreate’ a hypothetical Type 20 predecessor. The cream-dialled Officer takes this idea further, suggesting a “missing link” is the aesthetic development of the military chronograph, with a lighter-coloured dial for open-air usage away from the front lines. When the Type 10 debuted with black and green dials, I was a bit skeptical of the texture, which reminded me of asphalt. The Officer’s dial features a similar texture, but the off-white colour transforms the look. To my eye, the new dial looks like vintage German etching paper, which is an appealing texture that suits the theme of the watch. Inside, the Officer is as com...
Time+Tide
Ressence’s Type 3 gets the Marc Newson treatment
Ressence collaborates with the legendary Australian industrial designer on a highly legible take on the brand's iconic, oil-filled Type 3.The post Ressence’s Type 3 gets the Marc Newson treatment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Ressence Type 9 x The Armoury “Scattering Sun”
Ressence is renowned for its dynamic, no-hand display of the time. Animated by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS), time circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun. Ressence’s Type 9, its most compact, spartan, and accessibly priced watch, was introduced in 2024. Not only was it the smallest model in the brand’s […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years
Ressence’s partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, UAE’s leading watch and jewellery retailer, has produced a series of limited editions over the years, each celebrating local heritage through innovative design. From the Type 1 DXB with its Arabesque-inspired grid motif to the Type 1 Slim DX2, and the Type 1 DX3 featuring traditional Girih geometric […]
Video
These $400 Japanese Explorer 2s Make for Perfect Daily Drivers
These budget Japanese Explorer 2s are killer daily drivers, but have opposite personalities.
Fratello
Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary
Benoît Mintiens of Ressence and Ahmed Seddiqi, a luxury watch and jewelry retailer in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), are back with another limited edition. This time, they used the fairly new Ressence Type 9 as their canvas and added a unique touch: the domed titanium dial is completely covered with sand. It’s not just […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary to read the full article.
Revolution
VIDEO: The new Ressence Type 8 S in Green and Ressence Type 1 Round Night Blue
Join Ressence Founder Benoît Mintiens and Revolution Founder Wei Koh as they discuss the new 42.9mm Ressence Type 8 S in Green that is just 11mm thick and weighs 42g. Next, they introduce the Ressence Type 1 Round Night Blue in 42.7mm case size. As you might be aware, the unique Ressence Orbital Convex System […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breguet Type XXI 3815 Is A Lean, Clean Take On A Classic (Live Pics, Pricing)
The latest type XXI just might be the stripped-down version you've been waiting for.
Deployant
Review: The New Breguet Type XXI 3815 in Titanium
Breguet introduces the most contemporary Type XXI pilot watch yet: the Type XXI 3815 in titanium, available with either orange or green lume.
Deployant
New: Breguet Type XXI 3815 Aviation Chronograph in titanium
Breguet extends their aviation collection with the new Type XXI 3815 Chronograph in titanium, available in two colours for the hour numerals.
Video
Hamilton: The Perfect Gateway Drug (my top 5 reviewed)
Hamilton dropped this gem on America's 250th birthday, and we gotta talk about my favorite Hammies available right now.
Deployant
New: the Ressence Type 5X - Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)
Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista. Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More
Deployant
New Release: Zenith x Cohiba Pilot Type watches
Zenith launches two new Limited Edition version of the brand's celebrated Pilot Type 20 model with cigar brand manufacturer Cohiba at the 20th Cuban Habanos Festival.
Time+Tide
MY WATCH STORY: Running into last year’s crush in Hall 1, Jared’s Breguet Type XXI 3817
There are watches you see that have an immediate impact, but then the feeling fades. You see the same watch some years later and you can remember thinking it was amazing, but sometimes the desire to own it is gone. The opposite happened when I spotted Jared’s Breguet Type XXI 3817, which was released at Baselworld … ContinuedThe post MY WATCH STORY: Running into last year’s crush in Hall 1, Jared’s Breguet Type XXI 3817 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Baselworld 2016: Breguet Type XXI 3817
We continue to report the Baselworld 2016 novelties, with the focus now on the magnificent Breguet Type XXI 3817.
Deployant
Only Watch 2015: Breguet Type XXI 3813
The Breguet Type XXI 3813, for the 2015 edition of the Only Watch auction.
Video
Swatch x AP Royal Oak LEAKED ?
This video is my opinion on if there is a Swatch x AP Royal Oak watch collaboration coming on May 16th- based on Swatch's two recent Instagram posts.