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Results for Marine Chronometer & The Longitude Problem

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The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger SJX Watches
Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper 2 days ago

The Tudor Northflag Returns Sharper and Stronger

A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Straum Expedition Vs. Laventure Marine Type 3 Fratello
Straum 5 days ago

Sunday Morning Showdown: Straum Expedition Vs. Laventure Marine Type 3

Welcome, one and all, to the weekly spectacle that is Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re giving Daan a break and bringing our illustrious head of content, Nacho, into the ring. In the red corner, defending his six-win streak, is Jorg. More importantly, the watches going head-to-head today are two angular, adventure-ready titanium timepieces from […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Straum Expedition Vs. Laventure Marine Type 3 to read the full article.

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Fratello
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Jul 15, 2026

The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler

Doxa is marking what would have been Clive Cussler’s 95th birthday with a new take on its most emblematic dive watch. The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler keeps the shape of the 1967 Sub 300 but features a case, crown, case back, and even the dial crafted from Grade 5 titanium. This COSC-certified chronometer […] Visit The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler to read the full article.

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy Monochrome
Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Jul 14, 2026

First Look - The new Yema Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition, Developed with the French Navy

Yema seems to be focused on combining its historic dive watch designs with more sophisticated mechanics, especially since the arrival of the manufacture CMM.20 micro-rotor calibre. Following the Navygraf Slim CMM.20 and the Navygraf Pearl CMM.20, the French brand now introduces a more specialised interpretation of its vintage-inspired diver. Made together with the French Marine […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Mechanical Keyboards, the Werwulf Trailer, and a Stunning New View of the Milky Way Worn & Wound
Jul 4, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Mechanical Keyboards, the Werwulf Trailer, and a Stunning New View of the Milky Way

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Fixing the Biggest Problem With Mechanical Keyboards I don’t think it would be fair to classify me as a luddite, but I would say I’m more of a nostalgist. While I have made a nice little career for myself online, I do miss when things were a bit simpler. You know, when tech oligarchs didn’t rule the world and I could play my little Flash games on Neopets and it would take four hours to download one song onto my Microsoft Zune. Sure, I have an office now, but it doesn’t have the same charm as a computer room.  This, of course, is bootstrapped by the physical memories, too. The soft grey ball inside the computer mouse, for one. Turning the computer on with my big toe while balancing my dinner plate on my lap. And, of course, the clickity-clackity of the keyboard. It was elevator music to the millions of AOL messages I sent throughout my high school years and the bane of my father’s existence, who swore he could hear it from all the way down the hall. Now I use a Macbook and it’s a soft and gentle tap on my fingertips. Not to quote Joni Mitchell here, but you really don’t know what you got ‘til it’s gone. All the same, I’m glad I’m not alone. It see...

First Look - Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Watches for the 225th Anniversary of its Invention Monochrome
Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Jun 26, 2026

First Look - Breguet Releases 3 new Tourbillon Watches for the 225th Anniversary of its Invention

Precisely 225 years ago on this day (on June 26, 1801, or on 7 Messidor An IX, to use the French Republican calendar in force at the time), Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted the patent for what is, without a doubt, its most famous invention: the tourbillon. Designed to counter the problem of gravity affecting the […]

Vacheron Constantin Brings Back the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Brings Back Jun 17, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Brings Back the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

What is the ultimate first world problem? I can think of a handful. There’s the classic notion that we just have too much content to scroll through, stream, and consume. As the Boss put it, there’s 57 channels and nothin’ on. As I sit here typing up this article on hot early summer day with my AC blasting, I’m realizing it’s getting cold enough in here that I might need to add a layer. Woe is me! Just a few weeks ago, I bought a new iPhone and quickly found that Apple Music hadn’t automatically moved over all of my locally downloaded tunes during the initial data transfer. I was pretty disappointed when I realized only the second half of Turn on the Bright Lights was available to me on a late night drive home over the weekend. I just want to hear “Obstacle 1”! These are all annoyances, for sure. But none of them truly compare to the King of First World Problems, which is very obviously not being able to keep your perpetual calendar sufficiently wound. I mean, have you tried to reset one of these things recently? It can be really frustrating. Plenty of brands, like IWC earlier this year, have made moves to make their perpetual calendar movements more forgiving when resetting. Gone are the days, hopefully, when jumping past the current year means an expensive trip back to the manufacture in Switzerland.  Vacheron Constantin has a slightly different solution, which is to enable your perpetual calendar to remain wound for weeks at a time by allowing the wearer...

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back

What We Know Vacheron just brought back its incredibly unique Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and it's a welcome sight for dedicated collectors of the brand, along with general enthusiasts of unexpected yet innovative takes on complicated watchmaking. If you're not familiar with the original Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, launched back in 2019, the watch offered an incredibly novel solution to a problem often found within perpetual calendar watches. Let's be honest, though the entire appeal and genius of the perpetual calendar is for someone wearing one watch all day, every day, for the whole year, watches like these are most often owned by those with a large collection to begin with. A weekend for a perpetual calendar in a watch box or drawer would mean that the complication would need to be set again after winding, and so Vacheron introduced this perpetual calendar with a whopping 65-day power reserve. To achieve this, rather than putting in an unfeasibly large mainspring in the barrel, the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar lives up to its name by offering a new system that allows for switching between two beat rates for the watch—a contemporary high-beat 5Hz frequency with a 4-day power reserve for normal timekeeping during wear, but a much slower 1.2Hz mode with that prolonged power reserve for the "Standby" phase. The Caliber 3610QP comprises two separate gear trains for the two regulating systems, with a series of differentials tha...

Highlights: Exotic Mechanics at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance Brass May 22, 2026

Highlights: Exotic Mechanics at Christie’s Hong Kong

A menagerie of exotic movements features in Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections, from Double Splits and double movements to torque management and monitoring. Lot 2352 – F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance (Brass Movement) While the current iteration of the Chronomètre À Résonance is far more elaborate, using a differential to split the trains — each of which contains its own constant force device — this early F.P. Journe Chronomètre À Résonance with its 18k pink gold dial was much more ambitious in its time, developed by an upstart restorationist from Paris in a market that was hostile to independent brands compared to today. Resonance timepieces, or more accurately, those using coupled oscillators, can be traced all the way back to Christiaan Huygens, also known for inventing the pendulum clock and many, many contributions to mathematics and the sciences. He described the coupling of his pendulum clocks as an “an odd kind of sympathy” and sought to exploit this dampening effect to make pendulum clocks viable at sea, though this was ultimately unsuccessful. It would take more than a hundred years for Abraham-Louis Breguet — often hailed as the greatest watchmaker — to bring this phenomena to a watch, and then almost two hundred more for arguably the greatest living watchmaker to bring it to the wrist. That was, of course, François-P...

Serica Introduces the new Ref. 7505 Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces May 21, 2026

Serica Introduces the new Ref. 7505

One of my favorite things is when a brand releases a watch that feels like the watch they always should have made. I’m sure we can all point to examples of this – that feeling that a new watch really belongs in the brand’s catalog, and we’re kind of surprised it never existed in the first place. That’s sort of how I think about the latest release from Serica, the Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer. Doesn’t it seem like Serica always had a 35mm field watch in their collection?  More than any other watch the brand has released to date, this feels like a distillation of what the brand is really about. You’ll recall that they launched with a collection of military inspired field watches all the way back in 2019, which at the time felt like they were already going a little against the grain at just under 38mm in diameter. In the years since, they’ve iterated on this general idea, with an ongoing series of sporty selections rooted in a kind of imagined vintage world, never borrowing too much from any one classic reference, but pulling from a variety of sources to create something that is uniquely their own. Part of that has always meant keeping the watches fairly compact. Looking over the press materials for this watch and thinking about the direction the brand has gone in, I wonder if, if circumstances had been different, they may have started here, with a 35mm field watch, to begin with.  This is unquestionably the right time to introduce a watch like this, at a mom...

First Look - The Two-Tone & Chocolate Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm May 7, 2026

First Look - The Two-Tone & Chocolate Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm

The Laureato is Girard-Perregaux’s answer to the integrated luxury sports watch. Born in 1975 as a chronometer-certified quartz sports watch, Girard-Perregaux revived the Laureato in 2016 as a limited edition to celebrate the brand’s 225th anniversary, and later as a collection in 2017. Produced three years after Gérald Genta’s landmark Royal Oak but a year […]

The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/ Fratello
May 1, 2026

The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/

It’s always fun to see a seconde/seconde/ take on a popular watch. With the many whimsical releases Romaric André created while collaborating with brands, you sometimes wonder whether he is ever short of good ideas. So far, though, that hasn’t been a problem. If anything, I have seen the releases become better over time. The […] Visit The Rivanera Gets Echo/Neutralized By Seconde/Seconde/ to read the full article.

First Look - The New Zenith G.F.J. in Tantalum and Yellow Gold, Continuing the Legacy of the Calibre 135 Monochrome
Zenith G.F.J Apr 15, 2026

First Look - The New Zenith G.F.J. in Tantalum and Yellow Gold, Continuing the Legacy of the Calibre 135

When Zenith brought back the legendary Calibre 135 last year in the G.F.J. collection, it was a tribute to its 160-year history. Also, it signalled the return of one of the most celebrated chronometer movements. Now, the brand expands the collection with two new G.F.J interpretations: a tantalum edition with an onyx dial and diamonds, […]

Fratello Talks: How Much Does Chronometer Certification Matter? Fratello
Apr 9, 2026

Fratello Talks: How Much Does Chronometer Certification Matter?

“Chronometer” is one term that frequently comes up in watchmaking. We see it stamped on dials, highlighted in marketing materials, and often used as a synonym for “high quality.” But how much does chronometer certification actually matter to us as collectors? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is joined by Daan and RJ to […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Much Does Chronometer Certification Matter? to read the full article.

In-Depth: Understanding Resonance in Watches SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Chronomètre à Résonance Feb 19, 2026

In-Depth: Understanding Resonance in Watches

Resonance watches are among the most elusive machines in modern watchmaking. Creations such as F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance perform well at auctions, commanding high prices. While their rarity and appeal are undeniable, watches that purport to harness resonance tend to be viewed with a degree of skepticism. A measure of skepticism is understandable - the concept of sprung balances becoming almost magically coupled is anything but straightforward and requires a profound understanding of oscillators in general.   This story seeks to shed some light on the concept of coupled oscillators by explaining the two models of coupling and explore the nuances of each system. Before exploring resonance, the reader is encouraged to review the basics of sprung oscillators and isochronism in order to become more familiar with the hairspring and balance wheel model.  The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Souscription No. 2 sold for more than CHF3 million in November 2025. A confusion of terms First, the term resonance itself requires definition. In classical physics (mechanics, electrical engineering, signal processing, etc.) resonance is a phenomenon where a system vibrates under the influence of an external driving force that matches the system’s eigenfrequency (natural frequency). This is to say that a system at rest, which includes mass and spring elements, can be excited into a state of resonance by an external force when particular conditions are met. An imp...

A Closer Look At COSC’s New Excellence Chronometer Certification Fratello
Feb 17, 2026

A Closer Look At COSC’s New Excellence Chronometer Certification

Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is the largest Swiss independent testing facility for watch movements. Founded in 1973, this non-profit foundation aims to guarantee the precision of Swiss watches through a neutral, independent, and rigorous method. Watches with movements that passed the tests can be called “COSC-certified chronometers,” accurate to within -4/+6 seconds per […] Visit A Closer Look At COSC’s New Excellence Chronometer Certification to read the full article.

Affordable Vintage: the Longines Grand Prize Worn & Wound
Longines Grand Prize Longines Feb 4, 2026

Affordable Vintage: the Longines Grand Prize

Longines is a storied and well-respected Swiss watch manufacture that formed in 1832 and has continued uninterrupted to this day. From the first wrist chronometer in 1911, to groundbreaking flyback chronographs in the 1930s, to the world’s first hi-beat wrist chronometer in 1959, Longines holds their own in the watchmaking world.  My favorite period for watches is the 1950s through the 1970s and Longines was one of the top accessible brands during that time. In 1954 Longines began a marketing strategy of product families, launching the Conquest line of watches. In 1957 they introduced the Flagship line, adding to what would become a large group of watch families, many of which are still made today. Other lines that came later include the Admiral, the Ultra-Chron and the Grand Prize. The Grand Prize line was named in honor of the multitude of watchmaking awards and honors that Longines had accumulated over the decades. It was a relatively short-lived family, produced from about 1958 to 1964 according to my research. I have found that the majority of Longines watches produced during these decades were all fairly equal in quality and craftsmanship, with most of the differences in the families being design related. The Conquests were rugged and sporty, on par with the early non-diver Omega Seamaster watches. The Flagship series were dress watches, while the Admiral line was a mixture of both. The Grand Prize family were pretty much all thin, elegant everyday type dressier w...

Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn Fratello
Ming Jan 18, 2026

Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn

There’s a certain kind of satisfaction that only a chronograph can offer - the tactile click of the pushers, the sweep of the seconds hand, the quiet excuse to time things that probably do not need timing at all. You know exactly what I mean; we all do it. The problem is that many chronographs […] Visit Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn to read the full article.