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RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed Time+Tide
Aug 31, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed

If you’ve been paying attention to the wonderful world of watches for more than 15 minutes, you’ll have worked out that high-tech materials, often with fancy proprietary names, are a big deal. Isographs, Aeronith, Sedna gold, unobtanium and all the rest. This sort of fancy nomenclature is stock-in-trade of Swiss marketing departments, but it’s also … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Material innovation in watchmaking – the new breed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie GaryG has Aug 30, 2019

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie

GaryG has been to Monterey Car Week around 20 times now to meet up with friends and enjoy the array of cars and, more recently, watches on display. While in recent years they have focused on the “big” events at The Quail and Pebble Beach, this year the group decided to add some variety and go off the beaten path a bit – with satisfying results.

MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 Introduces the T-Rex Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Aug 29, 2019

MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 Introduces the T-Rex Clock

Over the past five years, independent powerhouse MB&F; and historical clockmaker L’Epée have built a reputation on enormous and complex creations, making horological spiders, robots, rocket ships and UFOs. This year, the duo has teamed up once more to create yet another eccentric tabletop timepiece – a cycloptic T-Rex. The T-Rex was first unveiled earlier in the year as a one-off creation that was customised with a rider atop for Only Watch. The T-Rex minus its passenger has now gone into production and is available in three iterations with either green, blue or red glass dials. While the earlier co-creations had more explicit influences, the T-Rex’s odd form requires some explanation. According to the brand, the source of inspiration was an ornament found on the desk of founder Maximilian Büsser that comprised of a Christmas bauble perched atop two chicken legs. Like the Medusa launched earlier in the year, the T-Rex strikes a balance between mechanical and organic forms. The 26.5cm tall body of the T-Rex is fashioned from stainless steel, palladium-plated brass and bronze, while its translucent “eyeball”, which also serves as the dial, is made of hand-blown glass from the same Murano producer that crafts the bodies of the Medusa. The jointed legs of T-Rex were designed to suggest motion, while its alternating sandblasted and polished finishing give it a sense of realism. In fact, the legs were modelled on actual Tyrannosaurus Rex bones, using 3D scans of f...

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Aug 28, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light

The headlines this week have been full of Omega’s latest Aqua Terra, the very matt, very lightweight Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The major selling point has been its light weight of 55 grams, a new alloy and its fancy new disappearing crown trick. It’s made with golf in mind, but the potential is more … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph Aug 27, 2019

Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph

Editor’s note: It’s 2019 and bronze is here to stay. And I’ve got to say that, as far as trends go, this is one I can very much get behind. And while the combination of bronze case, heritage style and gradient dial is more common today than in the past, the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback … ContinuedThe post Bronze brigade – the Zenith CP-2 Bronze Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3414 Aug 26, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol”

The average Urwerk is distinctly sci-fi in appearance, more Star Trek than Games of Thrones. But every once in a while Urwerk gives one of its watches the ornately-fully-engraved treatment, with the latest being the UR-111C “Pistol”. It’s a one-off creation based on the UR-111C, a watch inspired by the earlier and much more expensive UR-CC1, itself modelled on the 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 3414, an experimental wristwatch nicknamed “Cobra”. The standard UR-111C has a streamlined case with a mechanical looking details, very much in the house style of Urwerk. The Pistol, in contrast, is decorated on all surfaces with an ornate motif that’s hand-engraved by Urwerk’s go-to engraver. It was commissioned by a client who has a soft spot for such engraved Urwerk watches; the UR-111C “Pistol” is his third fully engraved watch. (Editor’s note: This Pistol shares the same name as the EMC Pistol from 2015, and was decorated by the same engraver, but is a completely different model.) Inspired by 19th century French wrought iron fixtures, the motif is in relief, raised against the background by only a fraction of a millimetre but enough to give it significant depth. Add to that the refined, narrow and perfectly straight lines of the decoration, and the talent of the engraver is obvious. Credit for the work goes to Florian Güllert, an Austrian engraver who trained as a gunsmith and usually decorates firearms. Based in Klagenfurt, a city in the south of ...

The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching Aug 23, 2019

The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel

It’s probably a bit generous to call me a ‘collector’, but as I continue on this journey, I’m discovering that I genuinely enjoy meaningful attempts by companies to do something different. In today’s expanded universe of microbrands and industry stalwarts, it can take a lot to stand out, but it takes even more to stand … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s family part 3 Aug 22, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection

We’re now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot’s family - we’ve covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we’re hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Another look at the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph Time+Tide
Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph Editor’s Aug 20, 2019

Another look at the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph

Editor’s note: In the last few years Montblanc has made quite the pivot away from the dressier end of the watch spectrum, to some sportier, more robust models. Case in point, the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph from a few years ago now. While Montblanc is not a mainstream chronograph brand, with watches this smart, it’s … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Montblanc TimeWalker Manufacture Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers Time+Tide
MB&F; Aug 18, 2019

11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers

Editor’s note: The darling of the independent watch space, MB&F; show no signs of slowing their release of weird and wonderful watches. Timepieces that often elicit a confused reception at first glance, MB&F; clocks and watches become more delightful the longer you look at them, as you realise the playfulness at the heart of their … ContinuedThe post 11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar Aug 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue

Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix collection - first released in 2018 - is a refreshingly upbeat take on mid-century design, full of personality and warmth. And this new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue keeps the tempo up. The case looks simple at first glance, but quickly gathers sophistication the more you study it. I … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel SJX Watches
Doxa Introduces Aug 15, 2019

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel

Most famous for making distinctively styled dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s, Doxa produces pretty much the same watches today as annual limited editions. The latest is the Sub 200 T.Graph, a remake of a 1969 diver’s chronograph – the flagship model of its day and now a rare, sought-after watch. The watch was first reissued as a 50th anniversary commemorative edition with an 18k yellow gold case and bracelet at Baselworld 2019. Now the more sensible steel version has arrived, and is still faithful to the original in shape and style. Typical of 1970s design, the case is a chunky cushion shape and matched with a “beads of rice” bracelet. The dial is orange – reputedly easier to see underwater than black – with block-style markers and hands, also typical of 1970s watches. And all the luminous paint on the dial is faux vintage Super-Luminova in “old radium” colour, meant to replicate the look of the aged tritium on the vintage originals. And the bezel is Doxa’s own dual-scale bezel that has both the dive time in minutes and depth in metres, allowing for recording of time underwater without decompression stops. The movement inside is a “new old stock” Valjoux 7734, which is vintage and dates to the 1980s, but is not the same calibre as in the original. The original was powered by the Doxa cal. 287, a hand-wound movement that was a rebadged cal. 310-82 from Eberhard, a sister company of Doxa at the time. In its day, and still today, the cal. 7...

RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so Time+Tide
Cartier products Aug 14, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so

Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the ’70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Humism Introduces the Philosophies and Helios SJX Watches
Aug 13, 2019

Humism Introduces the Philosophies and Helios

After a successful launch of its debut collection in 2018, Singapore-based microbrand Humism has just debuted its next line-up, the Philosophies (II) and Helios collection, once again on the crowdfunding platform Kickstarter. The watches are a sure thing: at the time of writing, the watches have been fully funded, with the amount raised more than eights times its fundraising goal. As with its first range of watches, the latest timepieces from Humism feature the same lyrical time display, with both the hours, minutes, and seconds indicated by overlapping wheels that create an unfolding pattern as the time passes. Black and yellow The limited edition Helios takes two watches from last year’s line-up – the Dasein and the Eudaimonia – and dresses them in black and yellow. According to Humism, the largest number of backers last year chose this colour combination, out of nearly 50 choices. While the livery has changed, the time-telling mechanics stay the same. At the very top, the seconds wheel is in constant movement, providing the primary animation of the dial. Helios Dasein Helios Eudaimonia The hours and minutes are indicated by spheres on the edge of the dial, each attached to another wheel. The quicker rotation of the seconds wheel, superimposed on the slower minutes creates an optical illusion reminiscent of a kaleidoscope. Both have steel cases coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC). The Helios Dasein is limited to 290 pieces, while the Helios E...

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? Time+Tide
Doxa Chronograph – as good Aug 11, 2019

The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers?

Editor’s note: Everyone knows Doxa make a great dive watch, but not as many people know they also produced excellent chronographs in the 1940s and ’50s. This is the story of one of those watches, a black dial Doxa chronograph with a spiral telemeter scale, worth significantly more than the €1200 Paul originally laid down … ContinuedThe post The DOXA Chronograph – as good as their divers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm, a sleeper in steel Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Aug 10, 2019

Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm, a sleeper in steel

Editor’s note: In the world of luxury steel sports watches, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato family is underrated. More than two centuries since they started making watches, the Laureato is made by a brand that has some of the richest history in horology. In that time, Girard-Perregaux have added significantly to the art of mechanical watchmaking, with … ContinuedThe post Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm, a sleeper in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.