Hodinkee
It Looks Like We're Finally Done With Uniform Color Trends
The new range of shades at Watches & Wonder 2022 proves it.
Results for Newman's Daytona at Phillips, October 2017
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING - Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Gloriously blending modern design and classic watchmaking savoir-faire, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton screams grail watch in any situation. It sits at the pinnacle of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas lineup and deserves its place in the pantheon of the complicated sports watch. Housing a beautifully executed skeletonised perpetual calendar calibre in a case … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date: Ice Diving With Its First Diver’s Watch
Diver’s watches rank among the most popular timepieces, which is not surprising considering that they combine cutting-edge features with bold, sporty looks. At Watches and Wonders 2022 Montblanc joined the ranks of sports watch manfacturers with a refreshing take on the diver’s watch called the 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date.
Quill & Pad
Model Thin: Piaget Tribute To The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch
Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Concept unique piece introduced at Watches and Wonders 2022 is nothing if not contemporary in its construction, but it is also an ode to history, telling the story of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept in notable detail, the watch that was for several years the thinnest mechanical in the world. Nancy Olson takes a look at this world record-setting ultra-thin marvel.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Head to head - what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders?
“We’re here at the pinnacle of watchmaking – the top tier of the holy trinity!” That’s how Zach introduces Patek Philippe in this video with Ricardo that mulls over the brand’s best release of Watches & Wonders. And as you can quickly tell from his liberal use of superlatives – he’s pretty excited. But when it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Head to head – what’s the best Patek Philippe release of Watches & Wonders? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Daily Episodes from Watches & Wonders 2022
The fourth and final episode of our daily series is brought to you by those who had their first experience at a watch trade show.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Zenith doubles down on the Chronomaster Sport line
Last year, Zenith’s Head of Product, Romain Marietta admitted he was “shocked” by the runaway success of the Chronomaster Sport. “We knew it would be big, but not this big,” he told us. Frankly, at Time+Tide we were less surprised by the wave of excitement engulfing this ceramic-bezelled beauty. After all, Zenith had effectively created … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Zenith doubles down on the Chronomaster Sport line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man
“Look how fast Chris Grainger-Herr walks!” Andrew exclaims at one point in this video as he follows the IWC boss into his booth. It’s a throwaway line but it’s actually instructive, because Chris would appear to be the watch world’s most energetic man. His exploits yesterday offer the perfect example. One moment he’s casually welcoming … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Philippe Dufour Explains The Difference Between The (Civil) Time You See On Your Watch And The True Solar Time (Video) - Reprise
True solar time is measured by the position of the sun and can run up to 16 minutes ahead of and 14 minutes behind the time shown on our clocks and watches. Our friends at The Watches TV spent a day with Philippe Dufour to have a look at this phenomenon in a personal way.
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I - with a Few Tweaks
One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...
Time+Tide
The Tudor Black Bay Pro - first impressions from a die-hard Tudor fan
What Tudor would release at this year’s Watches and Wonders was one of the big talking points among collectors and enthusiasts. The sister brand to Rolex has built a reputation for unexpected releases. Think the Tudor North Flag or Black Bay P01. Tudor, once again, did not disappoint. The brand’s release of a 39mm true … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay Pro – first impressions from a die-hard Tudor fan appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The return of the 222 - our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases
In this video, Jeremy and Zach take a look at Vacheron Constantin‘s new releases and one of the immediate highlights: the Historiques 222. You might remember this story from last year where a Time+Tide reader spoke to us about finding a Vacheron Constantin 222 in his sock drawer that turned out to be worth a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR
One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel. Initial thoughts A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different. In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool. The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position. Destro Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister compan...
Revolution
Chopard L.U.C Swoops in with Three Chiming Watches and an Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon
Revolution rounds up Chopard L.U.C’s trio of chiming watches at Watches & Wonders 2022 along with the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon
Hodinkee
Introducing: A. Lange & Söhne Announces A Brand-New Minute Repeater
A long-awaited chiming expansion at A. Lange & Söhne.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Revamped Air King Ref. 126900
In a teaser before Watches & Wonders 2022, Rolex published a partial image of a watch with a smooth, fixed bezel and crown guards – a combination of features found in no current model at the time. It was the all-new Air King ref. 126900 that gained a redesigned case and dial as well as a new bracelet and an upgraded movement. In other words, an entirely different watch, yet one that has the same spirit as its predecessor. Initial thoughts Conceptually, the Air-King is very novel for Rolex (just like the left-handed GMT-Master II) since it is the first Rolex to combine both a smooth bezel and crown guards. But it is still typically Rolex in its substantive upgrades meant to improve practicality and wearability. For instance, removing the soft iron inner cage means the case is flatter and sits better on the wrist. The new reference is powered by the cal. 3230 equipped by Rolex’s proprietary blue Parachrom hairspring. This increases magnetism resistance while helping boost power reserve to about 70 hours, an upgrade from the 48 hours of the cal. 3131 found in the outgoing model. Overall, the revamp of the Air-King is more practical than aesthetic since the look largely remains intact, although the watch does feel a bit more sculpted and refined. Having had the opportunity to experience the actual watch, it looks and feels excellent on the wrist. Thoroughly updated All of the design tweaks to the Air-King serve to make it more sporty. The highlight is certainly the crow...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1986 Rolex GMT-Master Retailed By Tiffany & Co., A 1960s Heuer Carrera 'First Execution Dato 45,' And A 1961 Rolex Day-Date
Watch and wonder at our newest vintage pieces in the HODINKEE Shop.
Revolution
Patek Philippe Combines the Annual Calendar & Travel Time Complications in the New Ref. 5326G-001
Patek Philippe launches 12 novelties at their first Watches & Wonders, with the 5326G-001 – Annual Calendar Travel Time that combines the two complications in a watch for the first time.
Revolution
The Magic and Mystery of Minerva And Montblanc
At home on land, air or sea, Montblanc’s latest are ready for adventure.
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin Finally Launches An All-Titanium Overseas
Vacheron Constantin finally launches an all titanium Overseas watch, case and bracelet at Watches & Wonders 2022
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”
Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Is The Most Hypnotic Tank Ever
Just look at that dial.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case
While Cartier has unveiled fancier and more complex watches at W&W; 2022, one of its standout new launches is amongst the more affordable, at least in steel. The Santos-Dumont Large Model in lacquer is unusual and interesting; very different from any recent Cartier yet clearly a product of the Parisian jeweller. Available in steel, gold, or platinum, the new Santos-Dumont has its case and bezel finished with coloured lacquer, while the dial has a concentric cube pattern. Though the lacquered case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a similar decoration, it is unique amongst Cartier’s current line up. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont is inspired by a 1920s watch with a lacquer bezel, giving it an unsurprising vintage vibe, yet it is entirely original. With its square bezel and Roman numerals, it is clearly a Cartier Santos, but it stands apart from its more mundane counterparts. I like everything about it, though I would have preferred it in the Extra-Large size, rather than the Large as it is now. Of the three versions, the steel model has the strongest vintage vibes with its black lacquer. The platinum model is striking and almost over the top in its colour, while the rose gold version lacks contrast. In steel with black lacquer While the platinum and gold versions are limited edition – as would be expected for such an unusual watch – the steel version is regular production, which is both unexpected and welcome news. And the watch is fairly priced in all its v...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse
Cartier’s wide-ranging new launches at Watches & Wonders 2022 naturally encompasses new takes on its historical designs, including the Tank Chinoise and lacquered Santos-Dumont. But its most extraordinary creation stands apart from the brand’s contemporary timepieces. The Masse Mystérieuse is essentially a floating movement within an oscillating weight. As the weight oscillates around the central axis of the dial, it winds the mainspring contained within itself. Initial thoughts Cartier abandoned its once ambitious push into highly complicated watches when its current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took charge in 2016. Mr Vigneron has stated publicly on several occasions that Cartier should not stray from its historical strength in simple, elegant watches in unusual forms. So the Masse Mystérieuse is definitely atypical, but that doesn’t take away from its fascinating mechanics. The complexity and creativity of its mechanics bring to mind an earlier era of Cartier watchmaking. While Cartier states that the Masse Mystérieuse was eight years in the making, it doesn’t mention who was responsible for the idea. It goes without saying that is was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the former head of development at Cartier’s manufacture who now has the same role at TAG Heuer. The Masse Mystérieuse is instantly recognisable as her work, appearing to be evolved from the Astrotourbillon. Ingenious as it is, the Masse Mystérieuse is also similar to Ms Forestier-Kasapi’s pa...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
H. Moser & Cie.’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. While the watch combines elements found in past Moser watches, including the trademark fume dial, it does so in an novel manner, resulting in a watch that looks and feels different from the brand’s current offerings. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer tourbillon combines familiar elements in a novel manner, resulting in an interesting watch that stands apart from the rest of Moser’s offerings. Mechanically it is a variant of the calibre found in the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon of 2020. The inclined time display of the earlier model has been eliminated, while the movement has been skeletonised in an unusual step for the brand, which has rarely offered skeleton watches in the past. Visually, the Pioneer tourbillon is not obviously a Moser at first glance, although the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is in a smoked blue that is associated with Moser. In fact, the styling of the watch brings to mind the skeletonised watches of Jaquet Droz. Still, the Pioneer tourbillon is interesting and novel enough that its CHF79,000 price tag is fair, putting it amongst the more appealing tourbillons in this affordable(ish) price segment. A sporty tourbillon The new Pioneer was conceived as a sports watch with a tourbillon. The Pioneer case is rated to 120 m of water resistance and positioned as Moser’s elegant sports watch (as opposed to the Streamliner that is an out-and-out spo...
SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces the EZM 1.1 S
Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, Sinn supplied custom-designed chronographs to the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs agency, ZUZ for short, when the unit was established in 1997. Having reissued the watch in a larger format in 2017, the German watchmaker once again revisits the minimalist chronograph with the EZM 1.1 S conceived for the 25th anniversary of the original. Limited to 500 pieces, the EZM 1.1 S is essentially identical to the 2017 limited edition, except it has the addition of a black coating on the hardened steel case, resulting in an exceptionally high level of wear resistance. Initial thoughts The all-black finish fits the EZM 1.1 perfectly in both style and substance. As far as military-inspired instrument watches go, this is a good one – with a few caveats. But because it’s identical to the earlier EZM 1.1, it has the same drawbacks, namely size and weight, both of which are slightly excessive. While the original EZM 1 designed for the ZUZ was compact and lightweight, the EZM 1.1 feels like a chunky, heavy watch on the wrist. At about US$5,500, the EZM 1.1 S is relatively affordable in absolute terms, but fairly pricey for a chronograph powered by Valjoux 7750, albeit one modified to have a central elapsed minutes. Sinn tech A large part of the Sinn proposition is its proprietary technology that boosts durability. Being one of the brand’s priciest watches, the EZM 1.1 S boasts almost all of the brand’s innovations, starti...
Time+Tide
Channing Tatum sports a Bulgari Aluminum alongside Sandra Bullock and Brad Pitt in new film “The Lost City”
When we see watches in action films, the usual suspects are Rolex, Omega, IWC and Panerai. But in the newly released movie The Lost City, we spotted a daily wearer make its cinematic debut, at least to our knowledge, on the wrist of Mr Magic Mike himself: Channing Tatum. While the watch may not be the … ContinuedThe post Channing Tatum sports a Bulgari Aluminum alongside Sandra Bullock and Brad Pitt in new film “The Lost City” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Dandy Watches Of Piaget - Reprise
Dandies and Piaget have always enjoyed a natural alliance. There are several reasons for this: precious metals and manufacture movements that are as small and thin as possible – allowing nearly unprecedented freedom for the brand’s designers. Martin Green takes a look at some dandy Piaget models from now and then!
Quill & Pad
Corum Admiral 45 Openworked Luminescent Carbon: Forget The Day, Bring On The Night!
Corum has released several new Admiral timepieces for 2022, including six new Admiral 42 models, one of which offers an interesting “grenadier fendu” pattern that was entirely designed in-house at Corum. But the pinnacle of these new additions is the novel Admiral 45 Openworked Luminescent Carbon with a glow-in-the-dark carbon fiber case.
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Minimalist and Affordable Type 8
The latest from Ressence dials back on technical complexity, but preserves the brand’s trademark aesthetic centred on a planetary time display. As a result, the Type 8 is substantially more affordable, while instantly recognisable as a Ressence wristwatch. By doing away with a seconds indicator as well as simplifying the case construction, the Type 8 is priced at CHF12,500, or about US$13,500, making it the most affordable watch in the brand’s catalogue. The next most affordable model, the Type 1, costs about 30% more. Initial thoughts Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens once said to me that he wished he could make his watches more accessible, but that was impossible without more economies of scale. Ressence has evidently inched closer to Benoît’s vision, since the Type 8 looks to be an excellent product in both design and execution, while being affordable, at least relative to the brand’s other watches. It sacrifices nothing in terms of aesthetics – the missing seconds but isn’t overly obvious – while still managing to be a Ressence. In fact, the Type 8 case is entirely different from the brand’s other watches, bringing a new form to the brand’s design language. But it fits right into the catalogue and feels no different from the other watches, illustrating the coherence of the design. Type 8C The inaugural version of the model is the Type 8C, which has a grained blue dial. Minutes are indicated on the full dial, while the hours are shown on an “orbita...