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Review: the Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g Worn & Wound
Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g It’s Mar 22, 2024

Review: the Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g

It’s been a long time since I’ve been impressed by a watch box. Normally I don’t pay attention. Often, a review watch arrives in some kind of travel pouch, and ultimately the packaging isn’t important anyway. It’s not why any of us buy a watch, but in the case of the Behrens BHR030 Ultralight 20g it’s a mouthwatering taste of what’s to come. The watch box is thin, curved and sleek, and promises that something special is waiting inside. When the black lid slides back, the watch does not disappoint. As the name suggests, the BHR030 is ultralight and, as you may notice, it is also ultra-thin, curved, and hypnotic. Behrens is a relatively new name in the watch game, founded in China in 2012, but one that is looking to make a big impact. You’ll note the branding in the top right corner of the watch says “Behrens Inventor” which gives an indication that the brand is forward thinking rather than focussed on classic watchmaking – though the watch itself should have been enough of a giveaway. Nothing about the BHR030 is traditional, and that starts with the case. The last part of the model name refers to its weight. 20 grams is equivalent to 8 US pennies, which is ridiculously light for a mechanical watch. That’s the weight of the watch head alone though, and with a strap attached that number shoots up to 34g. That’s right, the watch weighs only a little more than the svelte strap it comes fitted with. As you might have guessed, to achieve this lightness t...

#TBT Dress To Impress With A Pontife-Handed Alpina Cal. 586 Fratello
Alpina Cal 586 It Mar 21, 2024

#TBT Dress To Impress With A Pontife-Handed Alpina Cal. 586

It is not difficult to recognize a simple time-only watch from the 1940s. There are tons of them. They have either plain dials or dials with Arabic numerals. Not many watches from that time had hours marked with Roman numerals, and even fewer had so-called Pontife hands. And this is the first time I’ve found […] Visit #TBT Dress To Impress With A Pontife-Handed Alpina Cal. 586 to read the full article.

Louis Erard Introduces the Affordable Tourbillon Alain Silberstein SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Mar 21, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces the Affordable Tourbillon Alain Silberstein

Louis Erard returns to its flagship model, the Le Régulateur Tourbillon x Alain Silberstein, now in black. The tourbillon builds on the previous collaborations with the French designer but ups the ante on price and complexity. Louis Erard first tapped Alain Silberstein, known for his instantly recognisable Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic, in 2019 for a successful collaboration that led to a second collection in 2021. This new 78-piece limited edition is the first time Le Régulateur Tourbillon is presented in Silberstein’s typical Bauhaus colours. The model initially debuted last year as part of a three-piece set in khaki green, followed by a 10-piece limited edition made for UAE-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Initial thoughts Louis Erard has created an interesting niche for itself in the world of independent watchmaking with its ongoing string of well-priced collaborations with established independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter. And while the brand is arguably at its best when it challenges conventional expectations of watch design, such as its collaborations with designers from outside the industry like Oliver Mosset and atelier oï, the designs of Alain Silberstein have proven timeless in their own quirky way. Le Régulateur Tourbillon features a 40 mm titanium case that is also surprisingly slim at just 11.8 mm. That said, it’s likely to wear larger due to the hinged strap loops that extend beyond the case. With a black nylon strap and...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, an Impressive Lightweight Take on the Integrated Bracelet Chrono Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Mar 19, 2024

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, an Impressive Lightweight Take on the Integrated Bracelet Chrono

Don’t look now, but it feels like luxury watch brands are finally beginning to discover what many in the enthusiast community have known for quite some time, namely that titanium rules, and that given the proper attention, it can clean up pretty nicely and actually look quite refined. We recently saw Zenith debut their Chronomaster Sport in titanium, and it’s not really a surprise that their sportiest watch translates particularly well in the material. Now, just weeks later, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new Laureato Chronograph reference in titanium, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49.  While Girard-Perregaux has had other titanium Laureatos in their catalog, this is the first time the classic case profile has been presented in grade 5 titanium. That’s important, because the Laureato case is essential to understanding the watch. The chronograph case measures 42mm in diameter and is just 12mm tall, and the case is gentler and curvier than other integrated bracelet sports watches that were introduced in the same era (the Laureato was introduced in 1975). In steel, the Laureato Chronograph has an imposing heft, and you feel every ounce in that watch’s wrist presence. In titanium, the chronograph presents very differently, and has that shockingly light feeling that people who swear by titanium have always known and loved.  What’s special about this watch is that, similar to the Zenith linked above, Girard-Perregaux has paid special attention to the dial, picking a co...

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris Mar 19, 2024

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition

Last July, Omega decided it was time to introduce the watch for the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. Ben wrote about the new Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 edition here. The combination of the white dial and Moonshine Gold bezel insert struck a chord with me, but it wasn’t until a few months later when […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Paris 2024 Edition to read the full article.

Renaud Tixier Debuts with the Monday Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Mar 19, 2024

Renaud Tixier Debuts with the Monday Micro-Rotor

Already collaborators on several projects, Dominique Renaud, one of the founders of Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a young watchmaker and constructor, have established Renaud Tixier, a brand backed by investors. The inaugural creation of Renaud Tixier is Monday, a time-only watch with an automatic movement sporting a novel micro-rotor. Conceived to realise Mr Renaud’s many concepts and inventions, Renaud Tixier also aims to blend the styles of the two watchmakers. Each of the namesake founders comes from a different generation of watchmaking – pre- and post-Quartz Crisis – but the duo enjoy a shared philosophy that have made their past projects a success, something they are hoping to replicate with Renaud Tixier. Initial thoughts On a macro level, the Renaud Tixier and its first watch are noteworthy for a few reasons. One of its main points of appeal, at least initially, is the name, specifically Dominique Renaud. Even though he departed Renaud & Papi (APRP) over 20 years ago, his name still carries weight, particularly since many alumni of APRP, Anthony de Haas of Lange and Carole Forestier of TAG Heuer for instance, speak well of him. The name will certainly help sell the watch, particularly in countries with a strong reverence for creators and history, like Japan for example. And the fact that it’s a micro-rotor is noteworthy. Though relatively common in high-end watchmaking, micro-rotors are rare amongst independent watchmakers. The most prominent indie mak...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Mar 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. It’s time to get that extra-large coffee this morning because we have a special showdown for you! It is the battle of the Moonwatches. If you are a regular Fratello reader, you could have seen this one coming from a mile away. Today, Jorg will defend the recently introduced […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - White Dial Vs. Black Dial to read the full article.