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Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jul 16, 2019

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248

While Grand Seiko watches are classical and often formal, the Grand Seiko Sport collection is all about larger, more casual watches, The latest addition to the Sport line is the Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, the first Grand Seiko with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Yellow gold has been widely used for Grand Seiko watch cases, including for the commemorative Grand Seiko Heritage SBGW252, but the two-tone look is a first for the brand – an indication of its conservative approach to design. The contrast of yellow gold and blue is a tried and tested – and perhaps slightly overdone – approach for a luxe sports watch, evidenced by the popular Rolex Submariner ref. 116613. On the new SBGE248, yellow gold is applied generously and the colour stands out. The bezel is 18k yellow gold, as is the crown, while the hour markers, hands and markings on the dial are all gilded. Though the bezel itself is gold, the insert is scratch-resistant sapphire, just as it is on the standard Spring Drive GMT.   Size-wise the watch is identical to the standard model, with a case diameter of 44mm. The case is stainless steel, as is the bracelet. It is powered by the self-winding Spring Drive cal. 9R66 that guarantees an accuracy of within 15 seconds a month – or half a second a day – and a power reserve of 72 hours. The incredible accuracy is thanks to the electronically-regulated, mechanical oscillator inside; the regulation in turn is governed by a quartz oscillator with an integra...

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New Release: Armin Strom Masterpiece 2: Minute Repeater Resonance Deployant
Armin Strom Masterpiece 2 Minute Repeater Jul 16, 2019

New Release: Armin Strom Masterpiece 2: Minute Repeater Resonance

Armin Strom makes a world premier with their new Minute Repeater Resonance: the Armin Strom Masterpiece 2. Press Release The Minute Repeater Resonance by Armin Strom, the world’s first and only resonance chiming wristwatch, offers two-in-one for double the pleasure. Two complications, resonance and minute repeater; two vertically-stacked independent movements; two forms of resonance (oscillatorsRead More

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Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Jul 14, 2019

Introducing the Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph “Only Watch”

Montblanc recently introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a bronze case, black, multi-scale dial, and a monopusher, split-seconds Minerva movement inside. Priced at just 33,500 Swiss francs, it is a bargain as such things go. Now Montblanc has taken the covers off the one-of-a-kind, titanium version with a blue agate dial created for charity auction Only Watch 2019. Though it costs a bit more – the estimate is 42,000-48,000 Swiss francs – the watch still feels like a steal. The dial is made of blue agate, a hard, semiprecious stone, with a graduated colour that darkens towards the edges. Design-wise it’s the same as that found on the bronze model: inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made by Minerva, it has a double chronograph scale – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle. The contrast of white and red against the blue dial is both refreshing and striking. Notably, the dial forgoes the faux-aged “lume” of the bronze model; the cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with white Super-LumiNova, letting the retro design speak for itself. The large dimensions of the case remain unchanged from the standard bronze model – 44mm in diameter and 14.55mm high – but it’s significantly lighter thanks to the lightness of titanium. The sapphire caseback reveals the gorgeous, hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 derived from a pocket watch movement, but w...

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5 Omega Speedmasters that made it the legend it is today, and their modern equivalent  Time+Tide
Omega Speedmasters Jul 14, 2019

5 Omega Speedmasters that made it the legend it is today, and their modern equivalent 

This week marks the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission that saw Neil Armstrong walk on the moon. And on his wrist was an Omega Speedmaster. This moment ensured that the humble, manually wound chronograph was vaulted into the hallowed halls of history. But the Speedmaster story is about more than just that moonwatch. … ContinuedThe post 5 Omega Speedmasters that made it the legend it is today, and their modern equivalent  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Sparkling in all the right places – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Rendez-Vous Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Dazzling Rendez-Vous Jul 12, 2019

Sparkling in all the right places – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Rendez-Vous

A decade ago, overtly feminine watches that combined beauty and proper horology were a rare thing indeed. (There are more of them today – although still far from enough.) And when Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Rendez-Vous collection in 2012 it really struck a chord. Here was a watchmaker taking women seriously, with good mechanical movements, elegant, … ContinuedThe post Sparkling in all the right places – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Rendez-Vous appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Introducing the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Jul 11, 2019

Introducing the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”

With one watch unveiled each month since January, we are now more than halfway through the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” set. The latest addition, the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” was supposed to be launched in June, but instead made its debut this month to coincide with the opening of the brand’s Zurich boutique. First introduced in 2002, the Lange 1 Moon Phase is essentially the base Lange 1 with the clever incorporation of a moon phase in the sub-seconds. Subsequently, the second generation Lange 1 Moon Phase also evolved to feature a more advanced moon phase display. The new and improved Lange 1 Moon Phase was novel for the fact that its moonphase display also doubled up as a day and night indicator. Instead of a single disc with two fixed moons as is convention, the display relies on a rotating figure of 8, with each end forming one gold moon. The “8” is superimposed on an independently revolving blue disc that represents the sky. Half the disc is in a light blue, indicating day time and the second half is dark blue for the night sky, with laser-cut stars dotting it. The deconstructed display of the Lange 1 Moon Phase On the commemorative Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” however, the moons are in white gold keeping in line with the anniversary colours of silver and blue. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and blue printed numerals. Visible through the sapphire case back is the 25th Anniversary set’s ...

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RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch

As you might have noticed (here, here and here), I’m quite interested in bulletproof watches being used in situations with bullets (figuratively). I enjoy, as much as the next guy, reading about the (somewhat theoretical) limits of well-made watches, if it be temperature, altitude or water pressure. But what I love even more is reading … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Jul 10, 2019

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch

Contemporary Patek Philippe pocket watches are uncommon, and Rare Handcrafts examples – all of which are unique one-offs – are even more scarce. More objet d’art than portable timekeeper, only a handful are made each year. Sold at Sotheby’s late last year for almost US$290,000, the Rare Handcrafts ref. 982/159G “Japanese Cherry” pocket watch is a particularly delicate example of Patek Philippe’s enamelling. Rare Handcrafts pocket watches are often figurative or detailed in the extreme. This year’s line-up of pocket watches feature decorations that include a leopard, several landscapes, and a miniature of Vermeer’s The Wine Glass. The “Japanese Cherry”, on the other hand, takes a difference approach to its art; the decoration is simple yet vivid in colour and form. Unveiled in 2015, the “Japanese Cherry” watch was arguably the most important piece of the Rare Handcrafts collection that year, because the Japanese cherry motif formed the cover of the year’s catalogue. It’s a Lépine pocket watch, with the crown and sub-seconds arranged in a line (as opposed to a hunter movement that has them at right angles to each other). A plant synonymous with the country, the Japanese cherry produces the cherry blossom, or sakura, a cultural icon of Japan. On the watch branches of the cherry tree are depicted against a pale beige background. The branches are hand engraved in relief, with the individual cherries being bright red fired enamel with a g...

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The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic  Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Jul 8, 2019

The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic 

Editor’s note: this watch is now available with a full ceramic bracelet. Read more here. The other day I was spending some time at my local Blancpain stockist, and I found my eyes consistently being drawn to the Bathyscaphe (which was only a little awkward as I was meant to be checking out Blancpain’s 2019 … ContinuedThe post The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2019

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel

Editor’s note: The year is 2019, and solid gold is worth less than steel. While this seems strange on the face of it, especially to those more recently in the horological hobbit hole, steel doesn’t look like it’s getting less shiny anytime soon. So taking a macro view of the watch buying landscape, gold pieces … ContinuedThe post In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The history of the Zenith El Primero – 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking  Time+Tide
Zenith El Primero – 6 Jul 4, 2019

The history of the Zenith El Primero – 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking 

It’s hard to overstate the importance of the Zenith El Primero. The movement, an elegant, high-beat column-wheel chronograph, is impressive enough. It’s even more impressive when you factor in that this miniature engineering feat was the first automatic chronograph to be presented as a working prototype - after seven long years of development. Just as … ContinuedThe post The history of the Zenith El Primero – 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark Time+Tide
Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark Jul 4, 2019

Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark

Editor’s note: With the announcement of Tudor’s ceramic Black Bay for Only Watch 2019, we found our minds turned, inexplicably, to the darker things in life. And while the chances of owning that dark phantom are slender, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark is a much more achievable goal …  The story in a second: … ContinuedThe post Hearts of darkness – the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont’s 2019 collection  Time+Tide
Bremont s 2019 collection  When Jul 4, 2019

VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont’s 2019 collection 

When Bremont burst onto the scene more than 10 years ago they were disruptive outsiders in a staid and often slow-moving industry. Since that time, the brand has gone from strength to strength - something that’s reflected in the solid, no-nonsense watches they make. And the Bremont 2019 collection is no exception, as we found … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 highlights from Bremont’s 2019 collection  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date Jul 3, 2019

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer

Editor’s note: The longer I spend around watches, the less I find myself in bells and whistles (Patek alarms and Jaquet Droz excepted). In fact, I find myself more and more drawn to simple, pure designs that just work. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a perfect example of this. On the surface … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 5 Day-Date is a near-perfect daily wearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tom makes a case for waiting lists with the story of his Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – “I told the dealer what I wanted and he went, ha!” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – “I Jul 2, 2019

Tom makes a case for waiting lists with the story of his Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – “I told the dealer what I wanted and he went, ha!”

In the first episode of a new Time+Tide video series called ‘Every Watch Tells A Story’ - in which we ask people to choose a watch in their collection with a memorable backstory - Tom explains how he came to be the proud owner of a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, a watch that has had arguably more … ContinuedThe post Tom makes a case for waiting lists with the story of his Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 – “I told the dealer what I wanted and he went, ha!” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 2, 2019

Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018

While orange might be the new black, another obvious trend in the contemporary watch market is the lean towards heritage styling. This has been a consistent motif across the industry for a number of years now, but 2018 was a year when the number of heritage watches almost eclipsed those with more contemporary design. In … ContinuedThe post Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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6 of the best women’s watches of 2018 Time+Tide
Jul 2, 2019

6 of the best women’s watches of 2018

Half a decade ago, Time+Tide published a story, citing that by 2020 there would be more female millionaires in Britain than male, leaving it to the brands to respond to this shift. As we also mentioned here, women’s watches are so often an afterthought from brands, typically taking a men’s model and either shrinking it down … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best women’s watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it Time+Tide
JLC Jul 1, 2019

That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it

Editor’s note: If you spend more than a few minutes in that wonderful (and terrifying) thing that is the watch community, you’ll quickly become familiar with the larger-than-life figure that is Adam Craniotes. Today we found out that Adam has just become the Editor-in-Chief of Revolution USA, for which he has our heartfelt congratulations. So, … ContinuedThe post That time Adam Craniotes told us about his JLC, and the lies he told to get it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition SJX Watches
Patek Philippe from Jul 1, 2019

The 369-Year Old Watch in Mint Condition

A “new old stock” Rolex or Patek Philippe from the 1950s is a marvel. So this Jehan Cremsdorff pocket watch – which was made around 1650, making it almost 370 years old – is miraculous. So incredible is the Cremsdorff that for pocket watch collectors, the last time it was sold was a landmark event; the watch was the “Bao Dai” or “Paul Newman” or Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” of the 1980s. Part of the epic collection of pocket watches owned by a late German billionaire, which also includes the George Daniels Space Traveller I, the Cremsdorff watch is an incredible object that has been mysteriously well preserved over the centuries, with only minimal restoration to the enamel. Though little is known about him, Jehan Cremsdorff was a watchmaker active in Paris during the late 17th century. Its immensely elaborate enamel work indicates Cremsdorff probably made the watch for a royal or noble client; the identity of the original owner is lost to time, but the watch came from Sweden when it was first sold publicly. Made of thin sheets of gold, the case is entirely enamelled, inside and out, an artistic accomplishment that was done by a now unknown Parisian enameller. The outer case is decorated with champleve and relief enamel, forming a remarkably intricate and vivid flower motif. And for good measure the outer case is also set with diamonds on both sides. The inside faces of the case are finished in a brilliant turquoise enamel that’s been...

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Ventura Returns with the V-Matic Ego SJX Watches
Nomos Zurich Jun 25, 2019

Ventura Returns with the V-Matic Ego

Watch collectors who were around in the late 1990s and early 2000s would remember Ventura. It specialised in – literally – design watches. All its timepieces were created by noted industrial designers, including Flemming Bo Hansen and more frequently, Hannes Wettstein, who also designed the Nomos Zurich. The house style was sleek, pared back, slightly Scandinavian, but also distinguished by unusual materials – Ventura made liberal use of surfaced hardened titanium (Titanox) and steel (Durinox), a great novelty at the time. The Ventura V-Matic Ego remake But the brand made a pivot into high-end, self-winding electronic watches in the early 2000s, which unsurprisingly ended in Ventura going bust. Now Ventura is being resurrected by its former owner, UK-based watch importer Zeon Ltd (that’s in turn owned by a Hong Kong watch manufacturer), in partnership with Stephan Hürlemann, the designer who took over Wettstein’s studio after his death. I liked very much what Ventura was doing back in the day – the combination of design and materials was unique – but the original watches were surprisingly expensive, particularly by the standards of the time. The new remakes manage to reproduce the original design in a similar alloy, at a notably affordable price. Designer watches for less The revived Ventura sticks to a tried and tested sales formula: direct to the consumer via crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, making the new Ventura watches notably affordable, s...

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