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Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Hodinkee
Omega s next Bond Seamaster May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

What We Know Today marks the introduction of Omega's next Bond Seamaster. Don't worry, you haven't missed an announcement of Daniel Craig's successor—this new Seamaster Chronograph is an homage to… a video game. Yes, that's right. The commercial success of Omega's involvement in the James Bond franchise has been well documented, so it seems that a line of watches rooted in its connection to a history of fantasy and fiction through film would naturally extend to adjacent properties. This is the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light, a remix of the brand's large diving chronograph that appears in the upcoming 007 First Light video game. Interestingly, this is the first Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph in the James Bond universe—chronographs have made appearances on Bond in the movies, but this is the first from the Bond-tied line-up since the partnership kicked off in 1995 with GoldenEye. Given that it's largely identical to the current Seamaster 300M Chronographs out there, it should feel quite familiar, despite this version's inspiration tracking back to 3D-rendered models. Coming in at a very large 44mm diameter, 17.2mm height, and 52.8mm lug-to-lug, the 300 meter diver comes in steel with plenty of contrasting black zirconium-oxide ceramic, thanks to the white enamel-filled bezel insert, the chronograph pushers, and the trademark glossy ceramic wave-engraved dial of the modern Seamaster 300M. One of Omega's interesting quirks that I've always loved...

In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop May 21, 2026

In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches

Fashion is a fickle and unpredictable muse, isn’t she? While some predict the demise of the analog watch under pressure from smartwatches, something as unexpected as the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop could imaginably swing the pendulum the other way. Could it trigger a resurgence of ye olde pocket watch? And if so, are […] Visit In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches to read the full article.

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets” SJX Watches
May 21, 2026

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets”

FVF Genève founder Franc Vila has created a unique piece of his flagship tourbillon for a noted European collector of independent and complicated watches who goes by @thedeadwatchsociety on Instagram. The FVF1 Tourbillon “Seven Poets” is a romantic twist on the day complication that assigns a daily reading from one of seven historical poets. Initial thoughts Franc Vila is a man of many passions. His atelier in central Geneva is packed with art, and each piece has a story — I can’t think of anyone better to create a poetry-themed watch. Neither, it seems, could the lucky owner who commissioned the Seven Poets. The watch is fundamentally similar to the standard FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, with its 42.5 mm case, titanium monocoque construction, seven-sided day roller, and flying tourbillon architecture. Even in its basic configuration, the FVF1 is a distinctive offering that relaunched Mr Vila’s career after he parted ways with his eponymous brand. But the Seven Poets is anything but basic. Like the “Today” edition reviewed last year, the Seven Poets deviates from the norms of traditional watchmaking. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the day roller has been repurposed to feature the hand-engraved names of seven poets that are personally meaningful to the owner who commissioned the watch. I liked the conceptual, philosophical statement made by the “Today” edition, and the Seven Poets takes it one step further. This simple change to an indicat...

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces May 20, 2026

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary

The slow drip of Seiko limited editions to celebrate the brand’s 145th anniversary continues with a pair of releases in their Presage collection. The Presage line has long been one of my favorites in the Seiko catalog, and I’ve always felt these watches were a bit slept on compared to sportier watches in the Prospex line. The Presage collection is not just more “dress watch” oriented, but the watches under this banner frequently build on traditional Japanese craft techniques and offer a ton of value. It feels like we’re in a moment where these watches might be prime for a greater appreciation, as enthusiasts are more comfortable than they’ve ever been with smaller cases, exotic dials, and less sport oriented watches in general.  Of the two watches in the Presage line announced recently, the one that sticks in my mind the most is the new HCC007, with an Arita porcelain dial in cobalt blue. We’ve seen a number of Presage releases with porcelain dials over the years, often drawing on the traditional porcelain crafted in Arita for inspiration. This is a great example of the way Seiko incorporates very traditional Japanese craftsmanship into watches that are relatively affordable and don’t skimp at all on aesthetics.  The HCC007’s porcelain dial features a blue glaze in the same color as traditional Arita porcelain, and is the first time this color has been seen in the Presage collection. The dial is constructed with a radiating, sunken center section and an...

Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Breguet style numerals While May 20, 2026

Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics)

What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece.  Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...

My 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203: Honoring A Legacy In 14K Gold Worn & Wound
Hamilton Accumatic A-203 Honoring May 20, 2026

My 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203: Honoring A Legacy In 14K Gold

For many, an interest in horology is sparked by inheriting a wristwatch or pocket watch from a relative. While my fascination with the hobby instead stems from a spur-of-the-moment purchase at a flea market, I’ve been lucky enough to inherit several timepieces that will always be part of my collection and family. Recently, my grandfather, Raymond Harter, passed away at the age of 81. After his passing, my initial feelings and reaction, of course, centered around the familial sphere––taking time with loved ones to grieve and remember the times we had spent together over the years. As a watch collector, however, there was a part of me that felt he never really left. You see, I had received a 1968 Hamilton Accumatic A-203 with a solid 14K gold case from him years ago, which his father had purchased brand new and passed down to him. Even though we couldn’t chat about the New York Giants and watch SportsCenter together anymore, this Accumatic symbolized to me that those memories and that legacy aren’t going away anytime soon. I had researched this model when I first received it, and was only able to locate one or two blogs about it. There’s truly no better time than now to take a deep dive into the A-203 and learn about the watch that my family will cherish for generations to come. A Brief History of the Hamilton Accumatic Line and the A-203 The Accumatic line was a staple of Hamilton watchmaking for almost two decades, beginning production in 1956 and ceasing by 19...

Announcements: You Can Now Reserve The New Watches From Universal Genève Right Here Hodinkee
Breitling May 20, 2026

Announcements: You Can Now Reserve The New Watches From Universal Genève Right Here

If there's one brand that remains near and dear to the heart of Hodinkee, it's Universal Genève. In some ways, my own love of watches may not have flourished the way it did without the incredibly broad range of designs and concepts from Universal in that period. Simple chronographs, calendar chronographs, calendar watches, dress watches, oversized Aviator watches, and even convertible watches were all part of the Universal story. It just did SO many things back then, and when it was announced that the House of Brands (the parent company of Breitling, and now Gallet and Universal) would be re-launching it in full force, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. And I think it's fair to say that many felt that way. But Mr. Kern, who led the project along with a great team of young enthusiasts, knew they needed feedback from the long-standing group of collectors to ensure what they made hit all the right notes. So they assembled a group of advisers to give feedback along the way. The group included Mr. Fred Mandelbaum, Mr. Eric Wind, myself, Mr. Alessandro Fanciulli (Mr. A), Mr. Auro Montanari, and many more die-hard Universal lovers. You can see some photos of one of our meet-ups right here, dating back more than two years ago. The advisory board would give notes, and the internal team would process them accordingly – mostly in design details. And in the end, Universal Genève was fully reborn with an astonishingly wide range of watches just last month in Geneva. It includes tw...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France Hodinkee
Christopher Ward CEO Mike France May 20, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check. Photo courtesy Christopher Ward.  Now Christopher Ward, which recently overhauled its core Sealander collection, is eyeing an ambitious retail expansion plan in its biggest market, the United States. France lays out the economics and business case for the brand's unique retail approach, powered by deep community relationships built with customers over the past two decades. The ambitions aren't insignificant. From a handful of showrooms now, the company could have as many as 25 to 30 locations in the U.S. alone within half a decade, the CEO says.  He sees Christopher Ward as a brand with the potential to reach £250 million in total annual sales, up from about £50 million today. France expects to hit £100 million in annual sales within three years. He's also refreshingly candid about the threat that U.S. tariffs posed to the business and how the levies forced it to change the way its watches are shipped to and distributed in the country. Tariffs were also a significant drag on financial results in 2025, but the brand is forecasting a rebound in 2026 if import dutie...

Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup Fratello
May 20, 2026

Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup

We’ve been following Awake since well before the 2024 introduction of its Sơn Mài collection. The watches, which feature painstakingly layered Vietnamese lacquer over silver leaf, have vaulted the brand into new territory. Each release is greeted with fervor from fans, and the limited editions frequently sell out quickly. Until now, the watches have featured […] Visit Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup to read the full article.

Introducing: Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection Hodinkee
May 20, 2026

Introducing: Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Collection

What We Know Awake is launching three new watches today, along with a new visual identity for the young brand. The three references—"Sunset," "Alba," and "Borealis"—take their names and color palettes from celestial phenomena: an ocean sunset, an incandescent dawn, and the Northern Lights, respectively. "Alba" The dials are the story here, and the story behind them is quite fascinating. The process begins in Hanoi, Vietnam, where master lacquerers apply multiple ultra-thin layers of Sơn Mài lacquer—derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree—then meticulously polish each coat to build up the dial's color. Sunset gets pink, violet, and blue.  Alba gets red, yellow, and orange. Borealis gets green and yellow. Once the lacquer work is complete, the dials travel to Italy, where they're handed to the Renzetti family—one of the last workshops in Europe still practicing hand guilloché—who work them on traditional rose and straight-line engine lathes, entirely by hand, for approximately 15 hours per dial. Each groove is unique to the individual artisan and the individual piece. "Sunset" The hands and indices are constructed with a steel cap system finished in polished, brushed, and engraved textures, filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The result is a lume solution that's discreet in daylight but comes alive in the dark, casting a soft halo over the lacquer and guilloché beneath. All of this sits inside a new 38mm stainless steel case, a first for Awake. It fea...

Hands-On With The Sero Silver Signature Fratello
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grönefeld May 20, 2026

Hands-On With The Sero Silver Signature

The Netherlands is not exactly known as a traditional watchmaking powerhouse. This is a small country of people practical by nature and generally not inclined toward excessive displays of luxury. Over the years, though, several Dutch watch brands have built impressive international reputations. Names like Christiaan van der Klaauw, Grönefeld, and Holthinrichs immediately come to […] Visit Hands-On With The Sero Silver Signature to read the full article.

Introducing – The Updated Charlie Paris Alliance Collection, Now With Sapphire Dial Models Monochrome
May 20, 2026

Introducing – The Updated Charlie Paris Alliance Collection, Now With Sapphire Dial Models

If you have been following French watchmaking lately, chances are you have come across Charlie Paris already. They have a promising catalogue of everyday mechanical watches that do not get too expensive. The brand’s line-up today covers everything from the sporty and travel-ready Concordia GMT Automatic to more classic designs such as the Initial Collection. […]

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne May 20, 2026

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.

Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters Fratello
Louis Moinet May 19, 2026

Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters

We were deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Jean-Marie Schaller, the owner and creative force behind Louis Moinet. Jean-Marie passed away peacefully on May 16th at the age of 66. I wanted to share a few personal words about Jean-Marie because he was someone I came to know not only through watches but […] Visit Remembering Jean-Marie Schaller, One Of Watchmaking’s Brightest Characters to read the full article.

Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review WatchAdvice
Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice May 19, 2026

Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review

The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Originally published as: Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my p...

Damaged Goods: the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak Debacle Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak May 19, 2026

Damaged Goods: the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak Debacle

The hype started immediately. Just a little over a week ago, Audemars Piguet and Swatch began teasing the unthinkable: a collaboration. Well, not just a collab, it quickly became clear that this would be another bioceramic recreation, of sorts, of an iconic watch. Named “Royal Pop,” thus evoking the most Veblen of watches, the Royal Oak. Without even showing what the final product would be, collectors, enthusiasts, speculators, hype chasers, pop culture analysts, your awkward relative that texts you everything watch-related they stumble upon, knew this would be big. Not just big in terms of the watch industry, but big in terms of product launches on a global level. Think iPhone, but dumber. When Swatch launched the MoonSwatch back in 2022, there were similar initial reactions. Contempt, excitement, speculation. On the day of launch, I met up with Worn & Wound co-founder Blake Malin to head to a store to maybe pick one up. While on the train, we heard about the lines and decided to bail. Thanks to sites like StockX and eBay, the value of these watches skyrocketed before launch, drawing in a crowd of opportunistic resellers. No shade towards them, a living is a living, but the tone of the launch shifted. It wasn’t for us anymore. Eventually, social media outlets reported that some of the lines were getting rowdy. Not a good look. Despite the inane “boutique” launch model, eventually we got the watches, and, for a time, they were fun. Back to 2026 – despite knowin...

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles May 19, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo

Enthusiasts and collectors made their way to SoHo for an exclusive and exciting event, hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland. Fresh from the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders, this event marked the first opportunity for Gerald Charles to introduce their latest collection to the U.S.-based collectors. The evening celebrated a brand on the rise, featuring a comprehensive look at the brand's offerings, both past and present, including the beautiful, bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold, a watch conceptualized and designed by Mr. Genta himself two decades ago, hosting his favorite Jumping Hours complication. This exceptional pièce unique, which has spent the last several weeks on display at Watches & Wonders and in the Gerald Charles Atelier, was inspired by the untouched Li Galli archipelago off the Amalfi Coast and represents a profound expression of Maestro from its earliest days. Vintage Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold. Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar's first stop in the United States after their W&W; release. The highlight of the event was an animated discussion between Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Tim Jeffreys, Hodinkee Deputy Editor. Following a warm introduction and welcome to all in the room from Tim Jeffreys, the conversation continued, covering the newly released watches, the DNA that sets the Maestro case apart, as well as the decisions, thoughts, and work that continue to make Gerald Charles watche...

Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects May 19, 2026

Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects

Created by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a man capable of creating superb watches and movements, Kurono Tokyo aims to apply his design language to a more accessible price range. While the entire production of the brand is limited and relatively difficult to obtain, the “special projects” collection adds a sense of exclusivity through the […]

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Introduces May 19, 2026

Atelier Wen Introduces the Perception V3 in a Trio of Dial Colors

In their stated mission to prove that Chinese craftsmanship and artisanship can be worthy of attention usually reserved for European brands, French-Chinese watchmakers Atelier Wen have consistently put out intriguing pieces since their debut in 2017. Next on that growing list is the Perception V3, which builds on the reputation for hand-crafted horology that came with the original Perception line in 2022. The new V3 model takes elements of the V1 and V2 watches, particularly the hand-turned guilloché́ dials by renowned artisan Cheng Yucai, and aims to perfect the mechanics and aesthetics of the lineup. Three models are on offer, with two colorways returning from previous iterationts—the Piāo in ice-blue and Xiá in salmon—while a new variant, Yún in bamboo green, joins the pack. The three colors are both vibrant and easy on the eyes, favoring a more muted hue that pairs well with the pagoda-inspired lines of the 904L stainless steel of the case and bracelet.  Speaking of the case, it measures in at 40mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, the same dimensions as the V2, with the exception of the now-thinner 10.4mm case height. A knurled crown and full exhibition caseback give the V3 watches 100 meters of water resistance. The case additionally features more directional brushing and mirror polishing than previous iterations, while the Yún model additionally steps up the craftsmanship with micro-frosting in place of the brushed surfaces. The dials, though, are where At...

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties Hodinkee
Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits May 19, 2026

Video: Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern Sits Down With Ben Clymer To Discuss The 2026 Novelties

Thierry Stern sat down with Ben Clymer at Watches & Wonders 2026 to walk through Patek Philippe's novelties, and his passion for the product comes through immediately. Nowhere is that more evident than with the Nautilus's 50th anniversary pieces. Compared to the 40th, this is an exercise in restraint. "My idea is to do the counter-steps," Stern said. The three limited-edition anniversary Nautiluses are stripped to hours and minutes only—no date, no seconds—perhaps the most compelling of which is a 38mm platinum case recalling the medium-size Nautilus models of the 1980s, powered by the 2.53mm Calibre 240, its micro-rotor engraved with "50 1976–2026". The wildcard—a personal highlight for Ben—was something genuinely unexpected: Patek's first-ever Nautilus desk clock, the ref. 958G, limited to just 100 pieces. Its white gold case translates the porthole-inspired Nautilus design to 50.65mm, with a hinged caseback that doubles as a stand. Technically a pocket watch, yet perhaps it's better suited to the table. Mr. Stern gives us a peek behind the curtain on how it came to be—and the story behind it is one you'll definitely want to hear. Thierry also walked Ben through the 5840P—the Cubitus's first grand complication, a skeletonized perpetual calendar he'd conceived early in the collection's development but deliberately held back, wanting the design language to land before the mechanics got complicated. The vintage Patek market is certainly booming, with the ref. ...

First Look – The Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection, Including a New MB Meteor Time Zones Monochrome
Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue May 19, 2026

First Look – The Bremont Altitude Air Force Blue Capsule Collection, Including a New MB Meteor Time Zones

The Terra Nova and Supermarine collections are an important part of Bremont‘s catalogue, and the brand even looks up to the stars with the recently released Supernova Chronograph. Still, aviation remains central to the British watchmaker’s identity, and the new Air Force Blue capsule collection reinforces this focus with a unified lineup, introducing a distinctive […]