Hodinkee
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Chrono Goldtech Blu Notte PAM 1111 (Live Pics & Pricing)
After launching steel automatic chronographs at Watches & Wonders Geneva, Panerai breaks out the gold.
Results for Newman's Daytona at Phillips, October 2017
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Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver
The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver was formally introduced at Baselworld back in 2013, where it won over crowds of journalists with a vintage inspired design just too simple to pass up. As difficult as it is to stand out in the vintage dive watch market, Maruice Lacroix seems to have struck a chord with the Pontos S Diver. Now that the watch has had a chance to settle into the market, we’ve decided to see just how well it’s held up by giving it a week on our wrist.
Time+Tide
Buy It Now: 4 watches to snatch up from eBay and their “What’s Trending” September sale ending today
Whether due to the pandemic, or the nuances of sourcing pieces at retail, many watch buyers look to buy from a distance online in favor of making a deal in the metal. It is also the medium where informed buyers can find the best deals, whether pre-owned, or even new, at a discount. Seasoned collectors … ContinuedThe post Buy It Now: 4 watches to snatch up from eBay and their “What’s Trending” September sale ending today appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: IWC's Smaller Pilot's Chronograph Is Cleared For Takeoff
India Whiskey Charlie ready at runway 21!
Hodinkee
Hands-On: With The L.U.C 1937 Classic Pink Gold, An Elegant In-House Chronometer From Chopard (Live Pics & Pricing)
Chopard's L.U.C collection contains a number of very interesting watches that range from simple time-only pieces to perpetual calendars and tourbillons (and even a cool table clock). At the more accessible end of the scale, we have the L.U.C 1937 Classic, a three-hand watch with a discrete date window and an in-house, chronometer-certified movement. That this movement comes in an elegant, well-finished pink gold package makes it all the more appealing.
Time+Tide
Realising I was non-binary made me realise the problem with gendered watches
Accessorising is a huge part of self-expression for everyone alive, regardless of your identity. Your choice of clothing affects how you feel, whether it’s a tuxedo, a summer dress, or just pyjamas while you’re lazing at home. Before I had my own gender revelation, embracing the labels of non-binary and gender fluid, there were always … ContinuedThe post Realising I was non-binary made me realise the problem with gendered watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925, With A Silver Case & Sapphire Caseback
You had me at "Taupe Black Bay."
Hodinkee
Tudor Announces New Partnership With French Navy
Back at it again with the Marine Nationale.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Seven (!) New Patek Philippe Aquanaut And Aquanaut Luce Models
With the Nautilus being essentially impossible to buy at retail in certain references, Patek makes the Aquanaut even harder to ignore.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF
First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...
SJX Watches
One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future
When Baltic released the first look at its Aquascaphe Dual-Crown back in May, the first impression was that this was a step forward for a brand whose superb designs had quickly pushed itself to the front of the crowded world of affordable vintage-inspired watches. The original Aquascaphe took its cues from mid-century divers, with gilt … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Fromanteel Watches: How 17th century clockmaking inspired a brand made for the here and now
You can be in the right place, at the right time, but without good business acumen, you might watch an opportunity slip away. Such was the case with renowned Dutch mathematician, Christiaan Huygens, in mid-17th century Holland. Here was a man who had just created a new mechanism that tremendously aided the pursuit of telling … ContinuedThe post Fromanteel Watches: How 17th century clockmaking inspired a brand made for the here and now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Drops Quirky Regulator in Design-Studio Collab
Since recruiting Manuel Emch, best known as the former chief executive of Jaquet Droz, to advise on strategy and design, Louis Erard has rolled out interesting collaboration watches at a steady pace. To date, the brand has worked with Alain Silberstein and also Vianney Halter, both of whom added their idiosyncratic flair to the brand’s trademark regulator wristwatch. Now Louis Erard has just unveiled its fourth collaborative edition, the Le Régulateur x atelier oï. This time, however, the brand looked outside the watch industry for aesthetic direction. Founded in 1991, Atelier Oï is a design studio with a diverse repertoire ranging from furniture for Louis Vuitton to perfume bottles for Bulgari. The new regulator is the first wristwatch penned by Atelier Oï. The three founders of Atelier Oï: Aurel Aebi, Armand Louis and Patrick Reymond Initial thoughts Like the earlier collaborative editions, the Le Régulateur x atelier oï is all about design – essentially a new dial to go with the standard case and movement. Strikingly distinctive, the latest regulator is radically minimalist, with the dial doing away with all scales, indices, and branding. The dial markings consist only of straight lines arranged in a radiating spiral that create a hypnotic pattern. At the same time, the radial nature of the lines give the dial an expansive feel. Add to that the industrial, monochromatic finish and the effect is magnificent, evoking the fan-like structures found on cable-s...
Time+Tide
Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT?
I first encountered Norqain in the metal at the COUTURE Watch & Jewellery show in Las Vegas. I had heard of the brand prior, and one of the headlining aspects of their watches are their manufacture calibers developed with Kenissi – the same movement developer that Tudor, Chanel, and Breitling use. As we saw in … ContinuedThe post Is the new Norqain Adventure NEVEREST GMT 41mm better than the Tudor BBGMT? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Andersen Genève BCHH Celestial Voyager World Time (Video)
In this video, our pals at The Watches TV take a good long look at Andersen Genève’s recent BCHH Celestial Voyager World Time and talk extensively with independent watchmaker Svend Andersen on his life and accomplishments.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic
I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time
Two years ago Vacheron Constantin created a prototype of an Overseas Dual Time for American mountaineer Cory Richards, who then scaled Mount Everest with the watch. An unusual combination of titanium and tantalum, the prototype was a hit, and soon after sold for just over US$106,000 at auction, with the proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Its popularity meant Vacheron Constantin (VC) would inevitably put the watch into serial production one way or another. And it has done so – in two versions – with the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph ref. 5510V and Overseas “Everest” Dual Time ref. 7910V. The Everest Chronograph on Mr Richards Initial thoughts I was a fan of the Cory Richards prototype for two reasons. It was intrinsically good looking, in both design and colours, but at the same time it felt original and less similar to other luxury-sports watches. I like the fact that VC translated the prototype into production models without losing the distinctive look and feel. Although the prototype was clearly an Overseas, it had an entirely different case with guards for both the crown and pusher, a feature that has been reproduced on the limited editions. In other words, the Everest editions are not merely the standard models with a new dial. The prototype made for Cory Richards’ ascent of Everest in 2019 The new limited editions both look equally good, though the chronograph is more appealing because of its proportions. It is wider and slightly thick...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’
Hello, friends! It’s Andrew here, even though the author of this Wind Down probably says Zach. I’m jumping in at the top of the weekly-watch-related-wrap-we-all-wait-for, to announce that the world has a peppy new power duo to contend with. Step off Flight of the Conchords, there’s a box-fresh creative couple of blokes ready to walk … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Forget Flight of the Conchords, here comes Zach & Mike with their 1st series, ‘Zach Drops Mike’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko extends warranty period from three to five years for all purchases made after 1/1/2021
Usually when we discuss Grand Seiko it’s all about their faceted designs, nature-inspired dials, and the value they pose against their Swiss competitors with the great amount of hand-finishing they present at lower price points. Now another box can get ticked off for buyers of the brand with the news that Grand Seiko recently announced … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko extends warranty period from three to five years for all purchases made after 1/1/2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Good news! Grand Seiko extends warranty for all timepieces purchased worldwide to 5 years
Grand Seiko is extending the warranty from three to five years on all of its timepieces purchased at any authorized retail partner worldwide.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Titanium
The current generation Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has become the favourite platform for national or regional editions, with Audemars Piguet (AP), having debuted almost ten different versions over the last few years, including limited runs for China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. And the brand has just taken the covers off a special edition for the American market (at least initially, with other countries getting a shot at the watch later on): the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 41 mm in titanium with an unusual, two-tone tapisserie guilloche dial in grey and blue. Initial thoughts The blue tapisserie dial is so familiar that the new Perpetual Calendar doesn’t seem new on its face. In fact, it might pass for the steel version with a blue dial, with only the grey sub-dials setting the two apart. That said, the latest Royal Oak perpetual is a good-looking watch, with a handsome, restrained style and colours that echo the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402. Traditionally, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars have sub-dials that match the dial, but contrasting calendar registers actually makes sense since they distinguish between the functions. The two-tone dial on the latest model does that, while adding visual contrast. At the distance the two colours might not be obvious, but they will certainly be apparent up close. The hands and markers are white gold In addition to the contrasting sub-dials, the case metal is also relatively uncommon for a Royal Oak – the very first Royal Oak Perpe...
Time+Tide
Our best ever intern has grown up! Elise rejoins the team for Geneva Watch Days, and picks her five favourite watches
If you could have gone back in time five years to the chateau of Franck Muller, on the shores of Lake Geneva and told both Elise Durr and I that one day she would be walking around the city, reporting on a watch fair for us at Time+Tide I’m not sure who would have been … ContinuedThe post Our best ever intern has grown up! Elise rejoins the team for Geneva Watch Days, and picks her five favourite watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
We’re All One: The Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Story
Sleek clean lines are the order of the day for sports watches. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic models of the genre since the 1970s as well as their present-day reinterpretations.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5070/1P - Black Dial on Bracelet
Distinctive with its wide, flat bezel, the ref. 5070 was Patek Philippe’s last chronograph powered by the CH27-70 movement derived from the Lemania 2310. At 42 mm in diameter, the ref. 5070 was the largest high-end chronograph on the market at its launch in 1998. Amongst the four versions of the ref. 5070 – in rose, yellow, or white gold as well as platinum – the platinum version is the rarest. Around 250 were made according to Sotheby’s, with the standard guise for the platinum case being being a metallic, muted-blue dial. Produced at the “special request of an important client” in 2012, the ref. 5070/1P-010 has a black dial, while preserving the standard dial design with its large, applied Arabic numerals in white gold. While the standard model is has the model reference 5070P, this example has the suffix “/1P”, indicating the monochromatic dial is matched by a platinum “brick” bracelet, an uncommon option only available via special order. Importantly, both the black dial and bracelet are mentioned on the certificate, which indicates the watch was sold at the Patek Philippe Salon in Geneva. The combination of a platinum case, black dial, and matching bracelet – familiar and simple but endlessly striking – has been seen before on other chronograph models, including a ref. 5004P that sold at Christie’s in 2019. But this is the first ref. 5070P in this livery to be offered publicly. Estimated at HK$4-8 million, or US$500,000-1 million, the uniq...
Time+Tide
What’s really new with these Grand Seiko Hi-Beat Divers?
It’s been just over four years since Grand Seiko gave us two divers using their venerated 9S85 Hi-Beat movement. Both titanium watches, the gold accented SBGH255 and the limited edition, blue dialled, SBGH257, were absolute beasts at 46.9mm wide and 17mm thick; something one might expect from a 600 metre professional diver. Since then, Grand … ContinuedThe post What’s really new with these Grand Seiko Hi-Beat Divers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt
I first met Derek Pratt (1938-2009) at a sale held by Ineichen, a Zürich-based auction house, in 1975. He was in the company of Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), an antique watch dealer and trained watchmaker that took over long-dormant Danish brand Urban Jürgensen & Sonner in 1981 . A contemporary and friend of George Daniels, Derek was a talented English watchmaker who restored many of Baumberger’s outstanding historical pocket watches. Amongst them was then the most complicated Vacheron Constantin ever, the grand complication N°402833 made for King Fuad of Egypt in 1929, which Baumberger bought at auction – the watch was lot 202 at the October 7, 1979 sale at Galerie d’Horlogerie Ancienne (the business founded by Osvaldo Patrizzi that would later become Antiquorum). Baumberger would have trusted no one else other than Derek to restore that watch. In the following years, I visited Derek’s workshop several times with Peter, often in the company of illustrious watch collectors and enthusiasts, all fascinated by Derek’s knowledge of traditional watchmaking and his beautifully equipped workshop. Not long after, Peter recruited Derek to be consultant and technical director at Urban Jürgensen. As such, he was responsible for the company’s greatest technical achievements in pocket watches, which was the leading genre in watch collecting at the time. Derek at work According to Urban Jürgensen records and my personal archive, Derek completed around 34 watches for the...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Do the GPHG awards really reflect the people’s choice?
This past week, the 2021 GPHG nominations have been announced and, as usual, collectors and enthusiasts have expressed their bafflement at some of the pieces up for various prizes. To recap, each year an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Do the GPHG awards really reflect the people’s choice? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HSNY To Hold Weekend Classes In San Francisco
Over the weekend of October 9 & 10, 2021, with host Shreve & Co.
Quill & Pad
Cohiba Lancero Cuban Cigars: Talked About Far More Than Smoked
Cohiba Lancero is arguably the most famous cigar of all. It is, however, a cigar that is talked about far more than it is smoked. Why? With measurements of 7½ inches and a ring gauge of 38 (not to forget the little pigtail at the end), it falls smack in the center of what the old timers call the “long and skinnies.” Ken Gargett explains why it's worth a puff.