Time+Tide
New dials for the Zelos Helmsman Diver make it a hard watch to pin down
Zelos just launched a new set of dials for the Helmsmann SS, with combinations of carbon fibre, natural stone and mother-of-pearl
Results for Above the Date Window
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Time+Tide
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: A Market Roundup Of Geneva Watch Days Releases With Tim Jeffreys And TanTan Wang
This week on The Business of Watches: a fresh take on the new releases we saw at Geneva Watch Days and what they might mean for the market. Ahead of a special request summer fondue dinner, Tim, TanTan, and Andy discuss what they saw, what they liked and didn't like from the slew of novelties presented during the event. We go deep into the debut of Gallet, discussing how the entry-level offering from Breitling's House of Brands will stack up against the competition and how it will re-enter the company into the cut-throat $3,000 to $6,000 price category at a time when the Swiss industry is struggling to halt the slide in volumes. We also talk about Bulgari, Oris, Frederique Constant, Girard-Perregaux, MB&F;, and the latest MAD Editions, and why, when it comes to Doxa, you can't have just one. Plus, what the return of a new Northflag (now one word) heralds for Tudor. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Please leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:30 Tim Jeffreys0:32 TanTan Wang 3:38 Gallet (brand website) 5:28 Introducing: The Gallet Flying Officer (Hodinkee) 5:50 Gallet Revives Vintage Fan Favorites With New "Classics" Multichron...
Deployant
GWD26 Armchair Pick: Daryll’s top 3 from the new releases
GWD2026 which watches will Daryll pick this year? Daryl, ever the contrarian, makes his unconventional picks of the best of GWD26.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon, with the First Diamond-Set Balance Wheel in Modern Watchmaking
You might have heard of diamonds as endstones on the balance staff and the escapement, but putting them onto the balance wheel? Now, if you were to think of one watchmaker to do it, though, it would be Jacob & Co, never shy about challenging the conventions of high watchmaking. The new Brilliant Flying Tourbillon […]
Fratello
The David Candaux DC6 Wildfire Is A Scorcher On The Wrist!
Whenever I review a genuinely fascinating example of haute horlogerie, I’m constantly reminded that one never stops learning about watches. Yes, these wildly creative pieces make me feel like a neophyte. And so it is whenever I hold a David Candaux creation. The watches look like nothing else, yet they’re pleasingly tactile and meant to […] Visit The David Candaux DC6 Wildfire Is A Scorcher On The Wrist! to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g turns its 02SERIES into a nightlight with the Special Edition 02SERIES Mantis
Studio Underd0g unleashes a new, highly limited 02SERIES with a vibrant, fully luminescent green dial. This, is the Mantis
Fratello
Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models
Louis Vuitton is expanding the Tambour Spin Time collection with five new references, moving the latest generation of its distinctive jump-hour watch from limited editions into the permanent collection. The new watches retain the architecture introduced in 2025 but bring new colors, materials, gemstones, and a more varied set of executions. So, before your head […] Visit Louis Vuitton Expands The Tambour Spin Time With Five Colorful Permanent-Collection Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re all back home. Balazs has returned from Geneva, and Mike has come in after three weeks of being on the road. In this episode, we review the overarching trends at Geneva Watch Days 2026 along with the top releases. Enjoy the show! This podcast […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Trends At Geneva Watch Days 2026 to read the full article.
Fratello
The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist
Seiko has slowly but consistently expanded its King Seiko collection. For its newest release, the brand introduces a Vanac with a black dial. It sounds pretty simple — almost too simple. But there is a little more to the story. The black dial of the King Seiko Vanac HKF005 mimics the Tokyo skyline at night. […] Visit The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The new HKF005, a King Seiko Vanac with a Dial Inspired by Tokyo by Night
Released last year, the King Seiko Vanac came as a surprise from the Japanese manufacturer. Contrary to most previous King Seiko watches, inspired by the early days of the sub-brand, the Vanac was based on an edgy King Seiko reference from the 1970s and powered by a Grand Seiko-derived, high-end automatic movement. This sharp and […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New and More Compact Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe, in Blue
Greubel Forsey introduced its impressive three-dimensional GMT complication in 2011. Equipped with a rotating globe and an inclined 24-second tourbillon regulator, the complications were housed in imposing cases with a protrusion to accommodate the globe and a windowpane on the flank to admire its rotations. Ten years later, the brand introduced another GMT model in […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
TAG Heuer Fixed the Biggest Issue With Its Carrera Chronograph Sport
TAG Heuer updates the Carrera Chronograph Sport with a smaller 42mm case, revised dial, TH20-00 movement, and more.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT
I love the experience of a truly unique watch. A watch that, despite doing what the rest of them do, for all intents and purposes, is still unlike anything you’ve strapped to your wrist. This goes beyond the dial to the case, bracelet, time-telling, movement, etc. It doesn’t have to encompass all of those things, but when it does, it reminds you that there is still creativity in the watch world. The Chronoswiss Pulse GMT is one such watch. It’s almost hard to describe the Pulse GMT. It’s something between an integrated-bracelet sports watch and a conceptual neo-futurist travel thingamajiggy. Frankly, had I been told it was a prop from *Gattaca* or another stylized sci-fi film, I might have believed it. Its lines are fluid and complex, except when they aren’t, touching on biomorphic forms while also speaking to the traditional inspirations the brand was founded on. It’s not an easy watch to digest at a glance, presenting conflicting forms, and yet it works. Well, for me it does, but I like weird watches. And regulators. And weird regulators. Starting with the case and bracelet, though integrated, there is a merging of two concepts. Ignoring the bracelet entirely, the central case measures 41.4mm x ~48mm x 13.6mm to the top of the slightly domed sapphire crystal and draws from the brand’s historical DNA, but mutates it substantially. The coined-edge bezel and caseback become notched instead. Less ornate but still textural, it gives more diver than pocket watch....
Monochrome
First Look - Titoni goes Higher-End and Sporty with the new Luxe Tourbillon Ceramic
Tourbillons have long been associated with traditional high watchmaking. Still, in recent years, we have seen quite a few of these appear in the more accessible segment, from Yema, Patria, or Louis Erard. Powered by a movement using the same technical base (developed by Olivier Mory) as the aforementioned models, Titoni now joins the bandwagon […]
Deployant
GWD26: Armchair Pick: Chester’s Top 3 from the new release
The GWD26 armchair pick continues. Chester picks his top 3 from the event: Daniel Roth, Ferdinand Berthoud and L. Leroy Vox Temporis.
SJX Watches
The People Have Spoken: Seiko’s Crowd Favourite 62MAS
Last year Seiko let fans vote on which of four vibrant dial colours would adorn an upcoming diver, and the people made the right choice, picking this vibrant Daytime Blue for the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Fan-Selected HBC011. While a bit late to hit the beach, the latest 62MAS homage maintains all that was already good about Seiko divers, namely looks and tenacity, with key upgrades to the bracelet, for a reasonable price. Initial Thoughts Last year marked 6o years of Seiko diver’s watches, which can be traced back to the original 62MAS (refs. 6217-8000 and -8001) launched in 1965. Seiko let the many fans of its diver’s watches decide how to celebrate, giving collectors a choice of four colourways: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. The online poll was open for the entire month of July, which was long enough for me “to get around to later” but short enough that it had already closed by the time I remembered to vote. Unsurprisingly, the trendiest colour, and the one I would have voted for, Daytime Blue, won. From left to right: Sunrise Orange; Daytime Blue; Late Afternoon Green; and Sunset Red. Seiko has disclosed no plans to bring the other three colourways to market at this time. The vibrant blue and stamped dial make the HBC011 stand out from the pack of 62MAS-inspired models, though it changes the character of the watch so entirely that this bubbly beach watch doesn’t feel like a 62MAS at all. Which is a good thing, as the mo...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Pusha T - On Rolex, Rap, And The Luxury Of Time
In a Pusha T verse, every detail is chosen with purpose. Watches have long been a constant in his lyrics–they are part status symbol, part cultural shorthand, and always a reflection of how closely he pays attention. This kind of specificity is central to his writing, and it is also the clearest way into a watch collection that is not only bold in appearance, but governed by a set of standards. He describes himself as a student of culture, and over the years, that knowledge shaped a specific set of rules. Pusha buys through authorized channels, favors factory-set stones, and rejects aftermarket work. His lyrics about ruined Pateks and Cartier bust-downs are not simply jokes; he sees them as a kind of tutorial on what to do and what to avoid. Many of his watches are unapologetically gem-set, but the distinction is not between understated and extravagant. It is between an original idea and an imitation of one. Pusha's collection of Rolexes he brought that day. Then there is the waiting. Pusha named Daytona for what the watch represented to him: the luxury of taking the time required to get something right. The same principle now defines how he collects. Some watches arrived when they could still be bought from a display case. Others took years of patience. The watches on the table connect those two eras, revealing a collector whose access may have changed, but whose standards have not. This is Talking Watches with Pusha T. Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 16618LN With Black Dial...
Monochrome
First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton
Christiaan van der Klaauw has been making mechanical astronomical watches since the 1990s, and the Planetarium is the defining complication of the Dutch manufacture. The first Planetarium wristwatch appeared in 1999 and featured what remains the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium. The complication has since been interpreted in numerous ways, most recently including the Grand Planetarium […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Comes Back as a Permanent Collection (Incl. Video)
First released in 2009 as part of the emblematic Tambour collection, the Spin Time is, without a doubt, one of the most recognisable creations of Louis Vuitton horlogerie. The idea, a dynamic display using 12 rotating cubes as a modern interpretation of the classic jumping hour complication, was inspired by the overhead flap panels that […]
Fratello
Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection
I still remember running from booth to booth during Watches and Wonders when an email from Nomos arrived in my inbox. It introduced the brand’s new Twice Unique collection and immediately looked like an eclectic new initiative. With this new collection, Nomos celebrates collaboration and creative freedom, allowing the brand to experiment. The dials in […] Visit Bauhaus Meets The Atelier: How Nomos Turned Its Dials Into Art For The Twice Unique Collection to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Oris Extends Its Muppets Line with the Most Audacious Version Yet
Like many generations of kids past and present, I grew up on the Muppets, and well, quite frankly, I’ve never outgrown them. They are one of those rare and fantastic so-called kids’ universes that really transcend age and time. However, when Oris first partnered with the franchise in 2023, I was skeptical. Cartoons, superheroes, Muppets – there are plenty I love, and, of course, I also love watches. I’m just not sure I love the two together. Now, I’m fairly certain I’m in the minority. The Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition seems to be an enduring fan favorite, later followed up by the ProPilot X “Miss Piggy.” The designs are by all accounts very simple and subtle, with Kermit’s face casually appearing in the date window and Miss Piggy only featured on the caseback. Still, something about them always felt a bit kitschy to me. About a month ago, a teaser came through my inbox announcing a forthcoming Muppet model, and I slotted the information away. Like many of us can tend to do once we’ve been deeply ingrained enough in the watch world, I filed the announcement under the category, “this is not for me.” Let this serve as a good reminder to remain open and willing to change your preferences – to be surprised. When I finally got the full press release for the new ProPilot X Gonzo Edition, I started rethinking my position on these types of collaborations altogether. The creativity and attention to detail really blew me away. A lot of brands talk about ma...
Hodinkee
Here Are The Finalists for the 2026 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève
Last week, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced the finalists for the 2026 edition of watchmaking's premier awards ceremony, which will be held in Geneva on November 7. Being a finalist has the potential to be a big deal for any participating brand, but it can be a watershed moment for small first-timers (of which there are a couple this year). It's also a list I've been waiting for with some anxiety. The winners of the 2025 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Photo courtesy GPHG. This year, I'm lucky to be on the jury with 23 other journalists, collectors, and watchmaking industry members, including the jury's first-time president, Wei Koh. Among them are many talented friends and people whom I've gotten to know over my years in the industry, including Michael Tay (Group Managing Director of The Hour Glass in Singapore), Hind Abdul Hamied Seddiqi (CEO of Dubai Watch Week), the talented watchmaker Rémy Cools and incredible automaton maker François Junod, my friend Justin Hast, artist Wes Lang, and a few others. Without going on too long or being too saccharine about the whole thing, it really is quite cool to be on the jury with such smart and talented members. Nothing is without flaws, and like I'll get to in a moment, there are a lot of brands not competing that I would love to see in the mix. But one of the things that I think about a lot (and which goes unmentioned far too often) is the number of people putting their heart, soul, and tremendous a...
Monochrome
First Look - The Gold Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 100
Since its founding in 1906 in Hamburg, Montblanc has built its reputation on luxury writing instruments. In 1997, Montblanc expanded its offerings to include watches. Bringing the two seemingly disparate worlds of fountain pens and mechanical watches closer together, Montblanc released the Nicolas Rieussec in 2008, a monopusher chronograph inspired by an 1821 inking chronograph […]
Deployant
GWD26 Armchair Pick: Robin’s top 3 from the new release
With the recently concluded GWD26, we select some of our favourite watches from the event. Robin begins with his top 3 picks.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Nomos Orion Gold Neomatik “New Black” Edition
The Orion is one of Nomos Glashütte’s most formal series, with the restrained proportions and curved case design that have defined the collection since its introduction. The new Orion Gold Neomatik “New Black” pairs an 18k yellow gold case with a deep black dial and fine golden details. The combination relies on the contrast between […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward Finally Fixed the GMT I Couldn’t Quite Love: C63 Sealander GMT Review
Hands-on with the 39mm Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT, featuring a revised case, updated GMT design, SW330-2 movement, and Bader bracelet.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer redesigns the Carrera Chronograph Sport, and it’s more refined than ever
TAG Heuer redesigns the Carrera Chronograph Sport with a refined 42mm case across five references with all new dial colours.
Monochrome
First Look - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Returns in New 42mm Versions (Incl. Video)
As Formula 1 arrives in Madrid this coming weekend for the inaugural Spanish Grand Prix, TAG Heuer, Title Partner of the race and Official Timekeeper of Formula 1, is using the occasion to bring its Carrera Chronograph Sport back into focus. The new series is an evolution of the 2020 Carrera Sport Chronograph, a contemporary, […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Union Glashütte Unveils the Compact and Dressy Seris Small Second Collection
Recent releases from Union Glashütte have been largely about chronographs, from the latest Averin Chronograph with its white embossed tile-pattern dial to the Belisar Chronograph with its monochromatic look. Now, the Glashütte-based brand has something different in store with a new addition to its Seris family. Positioned as a more feminine collection, the Seris has […]
Fratello
Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black
When it comes to brands and their expertise, I am a bit of a purist. There is a famous Dutch saying: “Cobbler, stick to your last.” In other words, stick to what you do best. Some fields, like horology, require highly specialized expertise and craftsmanship, making it hard for a brand known for operating in […] Visit Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black to read the full article.