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Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow is the fortunate owner on a M.A.D.1 Red. Here he explains how he came to have a M.A.D.1 Red and what he thinks of it after a few months on his wrist.
Monochrome
Maurice de Mauriac is a family-run watch business based in Zurich. Founded by the late Daniel Dreifuss in 1997, it is now in the hands of his three children. With four basic collections and a section dedicated to collaborations, the brand has a strong affinity for 1980s styling and does not shy away from colour. […]
Time+Tide
“We are a little bit arrogant. We feel that we are the king of the customer - and it’s the customer who is the king. You should never reverse this.’’The post Top Swiss watch CEOs tell Fortune they’ve been too “arrogant” as the pandemic watch boom peters out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Here is the complete list of the winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Enjoy!
Deployant
This TGIFriday we do a quick round up of events around the Tour de France Singapore Criterium 2023. With photographs and commentary.
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SJX Watches
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...
Quill & Pad
The 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 10th of November. Follow the big night live on Quill & Pad.
Worn & Wound
Since 1997, Swiss watch brand Maurice de Mauriac has made an effort to think outside the box by mixing their national heritage in watchmaking with a bit of humor and storytelling mixed into each reference. Take, for instance, their latest, the Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich, where the story of this new release has taken the design elements from zero to sixty. To understand the Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich, one has to go back to 1939 at the outbreak of WWII. Zurich had plans to host their own Grand Prix; but, due to geopolitical tensions, the festivities were canceled. It wasn’t until nearly 80 years later when Maurice de Mauriac and racing simulation company, Züri Ring Simulation, were inspired to add a bit of pedal to the metal in the latest release from the brand. The racing simulation offers riders 200 racetracks and 200 cars to choose from as they race through a course designed to put the rider right into the action. Meanwhile, Maurice de Mauriac’s Chrono Modern Grand Prix Zurich complements this high-octane offering with two color options that are as subtle as they are impactful, showcasing the best of automotive culture and Swiss design into one. Choosing between either a brushed stainless steel or stainless steel with black PVD coating, wearers have a timeless watch that pairs well with just about any style. The racing visuals are only enhanced by the stripes on the dial or the Lucky Number at the 9 o’clock mark, which wearers can choose to really make ...
SJX Watches
Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...
Worn & Wound
We know you’re out there having a blast on this long holiday weekend, but don’t forget our Labor Day Sale ends tonight at midnight. We’ve got some amazing deals this year including 10-25% off select watches and so many gifts with purchases. Need help deciding? Don’t forget we also have a new consultation service offering you a chance to work one on one with one of our staff to help you pick the perfect watch or accessory. Head here to see all of our sales befroe they’re official gone and we’ll highlight some of our favorite sales of the weekend below! We know you’re out there having a blast on this long holiday weekend, but don’t forget our Labor Day Sale ends tonight at midnight. We’ve got some amazing deals this year including 10-25% off select watches and so many gifts with purchases. Need help deciding? Don’t forget we also have a new consultation service offering you a chance to work one on one with one of our staff to help you pick the perfect watch or accessory. Head here to see all of our sales befroe they’re official gone and we’ll highlight some of our favorite sales of the weekend below! The post Last Chance! Labor Day Sales End Tonight appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Time+Tide
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
HYT releases a new 8 piece limited edition watch combining a conical tourbillon with animation: HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires.
Time+Tide
The Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster II is the second in a series of tennis-inspired wristwatches with Racquet magazine Once again, the watch has been designed with Carlton DeWoody – a creative best known for interior design Limited in production, the pre-sale window is open strictly during the US Open tournament from August 28 to September … ContinuedThe post Game, set, match! Maurice de Mauriac return serve with a new Rallymaster II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Slim d'Hermès Squelette Lune is a prime example of contemporary skeletonization as the bridges offer an elegant appeal with their almost organically flowing lines and subtle decorations. Martin Green tells us what else he likes (and maybe doesn't) about this watch.
Time+Tide
This marks the third montre de souscription from Monochrome Monochrome aimed to design a “warm, discreet, and traditional” take on the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force This edition stands out with its usage of maillechort, or German silver, for the movement These days, whether standard models or limited editions, many try to leverage bold colours … ContinuedThe post The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
When Tim and Bart Grönefeld showed Ian Skellern their prototype 1941 Grönograaf during Watches & Wonders 2022, he loved it. But he didn’t think it would win “Best Chronograph” 2022 at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève because he thought that prize would go to the then-soon-to-be-released MB&F; LM Sequential EVO. Ian has since changed his mind, and here's why.
Deployant
We take the day off to celebrate the 58th National Day for Singapore. We wish all Singaporeans and friends National Day greetings. Majulah Singapura! We will be back tomorrow with more watch news and reviews
Quill & Pad
The first Black Tot Day was in 1970, the last day on which sailors in the United Kingdom’s Royal Navy were issued their daily rum rations (“tots”). Pusser's has taken the exact recipe used by the Royal Navy when it discontinued the daily ration on July 31, 1970 and used it to make its rums, the only producer in the world to do so. Here, Ken Gargett fills us in on everything tot - he luckily doesn't go "sipping the admiral," though.
Hodinkee
You can enjoy ice cream with it too, silly!
SJX Watches
For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial. Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards. But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...
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SJX Watches
T3 Special Watches made its debut in 2021 with the Dague, a watch designed to embody the aesthetic preferences of its Italian founders, vintage watch dealer Andrea Marzari and watch aficionado Alessandro Poggi. Inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 and livened up with colourful, “Stella” style dials, the Dague has now been given an artisanal touch with the Dague Time Dragon and the Dague Guilloché. The newest iterations illustrate the brand’s ambitious attempts at fine enamelling and guilloché – the brand recruited noted enameller Vanessa Lecci for the cloisonné dial – techniques typically seen on pieces from more established brands. Initial thoughts In the realm of micro-brands, it is uncommon to find traditional and artisanal guilloché and enamelling due to their high cost. Therefore, it was surprising to see T3 partnering with enameller Vanessa Lecci, renowned for her exceptional work for establishment brands like Cartier, Parmigiani Fleurier, Vacheron Constantin, and Voutilainen. The initial Dague series had a pleasant design that was not truly captivating for anyone not inclined towards a retro, Italian style. However, the new series showcases a significantly more compelling aesthetic. The enamelled dial of the Time Dragon, juxtaposed with the sector-styled outer disc, creates a visually striking contrast highly reminiscent of vintage watches with cloisonné dials made by Patek Philippe and Rolex. It would be exciting to witness the brand’...
SJX Watches
Now best known for the Vingt-8 chronometer, particularly when combined with its exemplary and versatile guilloche work, Voutilainen also produces high complicated watches. Though the brand now largely focuses on the time-only Vingt-8, it once completed striking watches on a fairly regular basis. One of the best examples of such a chiming masterpiece is the Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” that was delivered a decade ago, when Voutilainen was a far smaller operation centred on its founder, Kari Voutilainen. This unique repeater is now available at Phillips Perpetual in London. Quintessential Voutilainen Before he found the success that led to the current three-year waitlist for the Vingt-8, Mr Voutilainen made perhaps two dozen repeaters (compared to hundreds of time-only watches), all equipped with refinished vintage ebauches. Most were decimal repeaters that struck the time in ten-minute blocks, as opposed to the quarter strikes of convention repeaters, making time telling more intuitive. “L’Esprit du Bois” is one of the most elaborate of Mr Voutilainen’s chiming watches. Delivered in 2013, the watch combines a decimal repeater and second time zone display, all presented in the quintessential Voutilainen manner with a case featuring teardrop lugs and a dial finished with a variety of guilloche patterns. But it is distinguished by something special: the hinged case back is entirely relief engraved and enamelled with a motif drawn from Greek mythology. ...
Time+Tide
Making waves upon its September 2022 release, the Norqain Wild One signalled that Jean-Claude Biver’s advisory role in the brand wasn’t just a marketing move, but rather a shot at the big leagues. With a new composite case made of the brand’s proprietary Norteq material and Kenissi power, it was clear that Norqain is investing … ContinuedThe post Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
So you just got that watch you always wanted for Father’s Day. The bracelet has been sized and you’re already maxing out your phones storage with wrist shots. But something is missing. Perfection seems to be just around the corner. And it comes in the form of a new strap. Add a strap and watch as it completely transforms. Toss some nylon on a diver. Trade in a stiff piece of leather for a supple piece of suede. Pair the perfect racing chronograph with a rally strap. The skies the limit with the straps we have in our shop. So you just got that watch you always wanted for Father’s Day. The bracelet has been sized and you’re already maxing out your phones storage with wrist shots. But something is missing. Perfection seems to be just around the corner. And it comes in the form of a new strap. Add a strap and watch as it completely transforms. Toss some nylon on a diver. Trade in a stiff piece of leather for a supple piece of suede. Pair the perfect racing chronograph with a rally strap. The skies the limit with the straps we have in our shop. The post Just got a great watch for Father’s Day? Time for straps! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
The Oscillon duo of Buser and Devanthey have created the second release of Naissance d’une Montre with the Naissance d’une Montre 2. Using Oscillon’s own L’instant de vérité caliber as a base, one already designed to be made entirely by hand, the Naissance d’une Montre 2 brings the glory of the past to something that would make sense in any futuristic setting.
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