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Monochrome
A discreet but rather productive watch brand, Delma is also one with a long track record, as the brand celebrated last year its 100th anniversary. For what is our concern of the day, Delma has made a name for itself in recent years with its rather impressive offering in the field of dive watches, mixing […]
Monochrome
Born in 1889, Doxa is a storied and highly respected brand, mostly in the diving community. As of 1967, and the launch of the SUB 300 (the first dive watch to feature a unidirectional rotating bezel to calculate and monitor no-stop dive times), Doxa gained incredible popularity in the field and continues to do so. […]
SJX Watches
Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps. Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown. Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch. The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears w...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
I genuinely thought we were done with these. The lines, the madness, the rotating cast of Bioceramic planets-it felt like the MoonSwatch thing had run its course a dozen releases ago. But Swatch, in all its chaotic energy, has decided we’re not done yet. So here we are. Again.
Monochrome
We’ve said it on many occasions, the combination of a dive watch with a GMT function is possibly the best summer watch you can get. Capable of tracking multiple time zones while also able to withstand aquatic activities, these watches are the all-rounders you should consider. In this field, where not so many watches are […]
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Monochrome
As one of the most prestigious watch manufactures from Geneva, it’s no surprise to see Vacheron Constantin playing in the field of artisanal crafts, or what the industry names “métiers d’art.” One of the recurring themes used by VC are the zodiac signs, expressed in various manners over the years, either through yearly Chinese-themed watches […]
Monochrome
When Doxa entered the dive watch market, it consulted with experts in the field, including Jacques Cousteau, to understand the needs of professional divers. The Sub 300 of 1967 enjoys a special place in the underwater pantheon of iconic divers, but beyond its formidable underwater capabilities, it became instantly recognisable thanks to its bright orange […]
Monochrome
Moser hits the nail on the head when it states that for a straightforward three-hand watch to rise above the generic models populating the field, it requires perfect balance and proportions, high-end finishes and a unique touch. The new Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept ticks all the boxes with its well-finished, balanced case, captivating purple Grand […]
Worn & Wound
Last week, Bremont - the British brand in the midst of what could conservatively be called one of the most dramatic about faces we’ve seen from a watch brand in recent memory - dropped their first novelties of the year, a trio of bronze field watches in their Terra Nova collection. Bremont first introduced the Terra Nova collection at Watches and Wonders last year alongside a new brand identity, all of which was greeted by a decidedly mixed reaction from critics and fans alike. Now, almost a year on from the collection’s initial launch, Bemont has taken each of the three core models in the Terra Nova lineup - the aptly named Date, Power Reserve, and Chronograph - and given them the full bronze treatment, along with new horizontal gradient dial colors; green for the Date and Chronograph, caramel brown (which we first saw on a limited edition steel Terra Nova Date late last year) for the Power Reserve. Bronze has long been a tool in Bremont’s quiver - both in full bronze configurations or as an accent on watches like the S302 - but here, the brand has opted to step up their materials game by using “Cupro-Aluminium Bronze,” a high-tech alloy that adds silicon and aluminum into the mix. Bronze is typically made up of a blend of about ~90% copper and ~10% tin, and I can’t speak to how much of that has been substituted for silicon and aluminum, but I can tell you that Cupro-Aluminum Bronze boasts several advantages over more traditional blends. Namely, it...
Worn & Wound
It’s a sneaky secret, but the truth is everyone in the watch world occasionally gets a little tired of watches. Okay, I can’t speak for everyone, and ‘tired’ might be the wrong word, but anyone who has ever worked in an enthusiast field would probably tell you that balancing your own enthusiasm with a professional life can be a tricky thing. Enthusiasm itself is not a boundless resource, and sometimes you can find yourself in need of a cool-down period (something Nathan Schultz described beautifully here). Coming into 2024, I had no idea this year would be one of those cool-down periods (it can be hard to notice one while it’s happening) but looking back at the last twelve months, it’s hard to deny the characterization. It’s not that I love watches any less than I did last year, it’s just that, as I wade deeper into the watch universe, my own collecting has taken a backseat. Going into 2023, I made a conscious decision I wouldn’t buy any watches. Instead, I would save up and make one big purchase at the end of the year. Then I got to March, bought a G-Shock, and opened the floodgates. So when Zach asked me to put a New Year’s Resolution on paper back in January of this year, I went the other way, stating with intention that this would be a buying year and that I would likely end the year with a Tudor, a NOMOS, or both. Instead, I’m ending the 2024 calendar year having bought just three watches, none of which cost more than $110 dollars. I’ve been wh...
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Monochrome
Since its relaunch in 2020, the historic brand Nivada Grenchen has become one of the most active watch companies in the field of vintage revivals. Take a look at the entire portfolio of models offered by Nivada, and you’ll see that almost everything is based on a historic design. And the brand’s latest creation, a […]
SJX Watches
The flying tourbillon marks the beginning of my career as a watch dealer and collector. In the mid-1970s, I met a former fellow pupil of mine, Richard Miklosch, in a little antique shop in my hometown of Aachen. At the time, I was unaware that Miklosch (1939-2014), originally a technical schoolteacher, had become a highly sought-after watchmaker specialising in pocket watch tourbillons (Fig. 1) – to his great credit being entirely self-taught in the field [1, p. 198][1, pp. 374-377][2, p. 140][3, p. 40]. That is how Theodor Beyer, who ran Chronometrie Beyer and Beyer Uhrenmuseum in Zürich, came to have a Miklosch tourbillon, as well as a George Daniels tourbillon, in his collection. I told him about my growing fascination for watches and my plans to start organising auctions specialised in this field. Miklosch looked at me sympathetically, and, pulling a watch out of his pocket he said: “This is one of the best precision timepieces ever made”. Although I had only rudimentary knowledge of the subject at the time, I was immediately struck by the visual aesthetics of the movement. It was one of the flying tourbillons from the famous Glashütte School; to be precise the 1930-1931 tourbillon made by Max Hahn marked “School no. 3673” and “Special no. 21”. That was my eureka moment and one that ultimately marked the beginning of my watch career. Some of these iconic watches were to pass through my hands in the following 50 years, or even to find a place in my colle...
Fratello
Every field has them, and the watch world is no exception. I am talking about people with strong opinions. Heck, I am one, and I work in an office filled with them. And then there is the comments section on Fratello, social media, forums, and YouTube…all full of people with strong opinions. Now, that wouldn’t […] Visit Stop The Snark! - Earned Dogmatism And The Dunning-Kruger Effect In Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Although Doxa was not a pioneer in the development of dive watches, when it decided to take the plunge in 1967, it consulted experts in the field. Teaming up with US Divers and its chairman, Jacques Cousteau, their input helped develop Doxa’s first dive watch, the professional-grade SUB 300, with an orange dial and a […]
Worn & Wound
Maybe it’s just me but I find the micro and independent watch world to be utterly fascinating. And it is so for many reasons, one being the sheer variety of options we have for all genres of watches which are available at a wide variety of prices. From GMTs and elegant dressy models to divers and field watches. And there are indeed many options to choose from in all of these categories. One of my favorite things about watch writing is bringing readers stories on the little guys, so I’m therefore pleased to be writing this article to tell you about the just released Zealandic Iceborne. A new brand founded in New Zealand by Derek Chuan whose project I’ve been following for the past two years now, so it’s nice to be able to get my hands on the prototypes. Derek has been working on this project for longer than I have known him. And his idea of creating a watch which represents New Zealand has been on par with the recent trends of endowing watches with textured and nature-inspired dials. Between you and me, Derek has been working on this long before many other brands probably have. And this is just to say that the Iceborne has been a long time in the making and I believe it shows. Both from a visual perspective as well as from a spec sheet one. The Iceborne has a look of its own and it is made of the right stuff to be a proper field and adventure watch. It will be made available via a Kickstarter campaign at the introductory price of $441 USD. $483 Hands-On: the Zea...
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Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso explores the renewed rivalry between luxury watch titans Omega and Breitling. Once an also-ran, Breitling has been rehabilitated in the marketplace and offers competitive watches in all classes. As Rolex has moved upmarket, Omega and its Speedmaster have been left in possession of the mid-market field.
Fratello
Howdy, folks! On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex ask themselves: how much Genta is too much Genta? It’s hard to think of a name more revered in the field of watch design. The man’s designs have been around since the 1950s and include countless staples. Only recently have some of them […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Much Genta Is Too Much Genta? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Japan’s Citizen Watch Company marks 100 years of watchmaking in 2024, and some of its most noteworthy recent timepieces provide ample proof that, despite being in business for a full century, the brand’s drive toward forward-thinking technology and avant-garde design has not yet started to slow down. Take for example the Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T, unveiled in Fall of 2023 - which is the culmination of 30 years of Citizen’s pioneering work in the field of radio-controlled atomic timekeeping. It is the first light-powered watch with a fully analog moon-phase display, and the first moon-phase that requires no manual adjustments whatsoever from the wearer thanks to its high-tech movement, Eco-Drive Caliber H874, which receives signals from six multi-band radio transmitters. The name “Tsuki-yomi” is derived from a Japanese phrase meaning “reading the moon,” and also refers to a moon god from ancient Japanese mythology, while the “A-T” is an abbreviation for “Atomic Timekeeping.” For the ingenious Eco-Drive movement, which runs to an astounding accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, Citizen’s designers developed a special mathematical formula that calculates the exact position of the moon on each day of the year by using the radio transmission signals from the world’s atomic clocks. The watch’s dial is also a distinguishing feature: its surface is enhanced with a textural lunar landscape motif of craters, moondust and lakes that is “bold yet subtle en...
Teddy Baldassarre
Many watch companies have a history of supplying timepieces for military units around the world, from Blancpain and Tudor’s dive watches for the French Navy to Hamilton’s field watches for World War II troops to IWC’s pilot watches for German and later British air forces. However, only one watch company has been an official supplier to the U.S. armed forces throughout nearly its entire existence, and it’s a company that many watch enthusiasts might be hearing about for the very first time: Marathon Watch Company. Read on for more background and a comprehensive rundown of the brand's collection. The Marathon Watch Company, one of the very few family-owned watch brands in existence and one of the even fewer based in Canada, traces its lineage all the way back to 1904. Its predecessor, the Weinstrum Watch Company, was founded by the Wein family, Russian immigrants who originally settled in New York City. (Another branch of the family changed their last name to “Wenger” and founded another Canadian watch business under that name, though it’s not to be confused with the better known Wenger company in Switzerland, today part of Victorinox.) In 1939, family scion Morris Wein carried on the family trade with the founding of Marathon, basing it not in New York but in Montreal, Canada, where the family had moved during the 1920s - not exactly a hotbed of watchmaking even at the time, but an ideal home base for the mission that the company began in 1941: supplying dep...
Fratello
Diver’s, field, and pilot’s watches are among the most popular variations in the time-only-watch universe. While Circula already covered the first two, now with the ProFlight, it also ticks the last box. Although unmistakably derived from Circula’s ProTrail, this ProFlight model immediately impresses with its modern pilot’s watch face. It’s probably thanks to a quirky, […] Visit Hands-On With The New Circula ProFlight Blue to read the full article.
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Fratello
Every field has its lingo, and the watch world is no exception. As Fratello writers, we try to be aware of our use of language and the implications that come from our specific choice of words. Regardless, sometimes we are taken aback when certain terms unintentionally trigger strong reactions in readers. Recently, we noticed that […] Visit Is It Time To Revise The “Holy Trinity” Of Watchmaking? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Well, here we go again. Just a few weeks after the launch of the Swatch x Omega Mission to Moonphase, which saw Snoopy appearing on a pure white MoonSwatch, we’ve got an entirely new creation featuring our beagle friend. By entirely new of course what I really mean is: another color. The Mission to Moonphase New Moon is an all black rendering of the Mission to Moonphase concept. Swatch has been teasing this release over the past several days on social media, so it’s not exactly a surprise, unless you think about the very existence of these watches in the first place, and the conversation that develops around them whenever a new one drops, which is, on its face, surprising. The new Mission to Moonphase New Moon arrives just before April’s new moon, which is also the date of the total solar eclipse that will be visible to millions of Americans in the eastern part of the country (and many more will see a partial eclipse, which is still quite a thing). One wonders why Omega and Swatch didn’t come up with an eclipse themed watch for the occasion. There are all kinds of ways to play with the idea of blotting out the sun. A Bioceramic rendition of the sun’s corona could have been a pretty cool thing. I shouldn’t say “could have been,” of course. It could well be in the works. Quantum physics has proven that if enough time passes, every possible rendition of the MoonSwatch will eventually come to fruition. Back to the Mission to Moonphase at hand. The New Moon re...
Time+Tide
The left-field integrated-bracelet watch just got a lot more gold.The post The Czapek Antarctique is in gold for the first time with the Mount Erebus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Swatch and Omega are once again dropping another collaboration that is bound to be a hit, the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase. Inspired by the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Snoopy”, the new MoonSwatch features a moon phase along with an all-white Bioceramic case and matching white strap. Snoopy resides on the moon phase display at two o’clock, which features a hidden quote printed in Super-Luminova, “I can’t sleep without a night light!”, that is invisible except in the dark or when exposed to UV light. The Mission to the Moonphase is not a limited edition and instead part of the permanent collection. Initial thoughts Although the MoonSwatch has been a massive hit in terms of units sold – the total sold to date is in the low millions – recent iterations of the model haven’t been particularly exciting, with most of them simply having the addition of a gold-plated seconds hand. With the MoonSwatch Mission to the Moonphase, however, Swatch is bringing something more interesting to the table. While it certainly isn’t imaginative, the appeal of the watch is obvious. For one, it builds on the capitalises on the desirability of the actual Speedmaster “Snoopy”. At the same time, the all-white livery sets it apart from the other MoonSwatch iterations. Like the other versions of the MoonSwatch, the new Snoopy edition offers decent value at US$310. It is inexpensive, though it does feel inexpensive since the case is essentially plastic mixed with ceramic. B...
Monochrome
The accessible automatic GMT Sports watch is becoming one of the most competitive categories of the industry, with heavy players like Seiko (even in the affordable 5 Sports range), Citizen, and Mido offering compelling watches, and newcomers and micro-brands such as Lorca or Jack Mason also hitting hard. New to this field is Certina, unveiling […]
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