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Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Ask any watch fan about the different M.A.D.Editions, and you’ll probably hear about the wacky, colorful aspects of the M.A.D.1 or the bonkers and fun modifications to the standard off-the-shelf caliber that powers the watches. For the new M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese, the brand presents a watch that almost looks deceivingly modest. But we all know […] Visit Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese to read the full article.

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese

Blancpain 6 days ago

MB&F;’s M.A.D.3 Honours Vincent Calabrese

For it’s third M.A.D. Edition, MB&F; has reimagined Vincent Calabrese’s signature jumping hours complication. While still allocated via raffle, the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese represents a significant departure for MB&F;’s entry level sub-brand, being the first to fully conceal the winding rotor and the first to be based on a historical design from a notable watchmaker. Initial thoughts Vincent Calabrese is a pioneering independent watchmaker who co-founded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) alongside Svend Andersen in 1985. Mr Calabrese is perhaps most well known for developing highly original movements for other brands including the Corum Golden Bridge and the first-ever flying tourbillon wristwatch movement for Blancpain in 1989. But Mr Calabrese also produced watches under his own name, including the Baladin that served as the inspiration for M.A.D.3. Maximilian Büsser and Mr Calabrese have been friends for years and discussed collaborating on a watch project many times, but the M.A.D.3 is their first joint effort. The M.A.D.3 is affordable as such things go, at CHF2,900. That’s roughly equivalent to where original Baladins trade on the secondary market, depending on the specifics. But the M.A.D.3 is a worthy remake in a more contemporary size and should prove more reliable and easier to service when the time comes. For better or worse, the solid value proposition almost dictates a mechanism to manage demand, so buying a M.A.D.3 isn’t a...

Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Corum Golden Bridge Photo courtesy 6 days ago

Hands-On: The M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

Today marks the introduction of the M.A.D.3, the third entry in the MB&F; spinoff, M.A.D.Editions brand. If you've spent the past few years entering raffle after raffle in hopes of securing a watch from the brand, this new design may offer another opportunity in this game of chance. The groundbreaking first entry in the series came from the mind of none other than Max Büsser, and the very different follow-up was spearheaded by prominent watch designer and frequent MB&F; collaborator Eric Giroud. This third edition taps into a watchmaker who, while quite a bit further out from the direct radius of MB&F;, has always maintained a philosophy on the expression of time in a very similar vein. An example of a Corum Golden Bridge. Photo courtesy of Das Kunst- und Auktionshaus Kastern GmbH & Co.KG. Calabrese's Baladin. Photo courtesy Christie's. Vincent Calabrese, though not necessarily a household name like many of his contemporaries, is certainly a legend. He's the man responsible for the iconic floating-movement architecture of the Corum Golden Bridge and the co-founder of the independent watchmaking consortium Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI, as you might more commonly know it). And among the dozens of patents behind his name, and many inventive executions of complications, he's always played with the concept of displaying the time. So I suppose Calabrese and Büsser are a match made in heaven, and here, we have the M.A.D.3 edition in all of its bright, sa...

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

Bulgari BVL 362 based 6 days ago

Striking Resemblance: The Piaget Polo Minute Repeater

More than a decade after unveiling its first in-house minute repeater, Piaget has revived the once-record-setting calibre in a familiar-looking guise. The new Polo Minute Repeater pairs the ultra-thin, micro-rotor cal. 1209P with the modern Polo case and a striking, partially open-worked guilloche dial. Initial thoughts The Polo Minute Repeater is a new watch, but it bears a striking resemblance to the Emperador Coussin of 2013. This isn’t that surprising, since the contemporary Polo — refreshed in 2016 — borrows significantly from the Emperador’s case design. But in this case the similarity is more than skin deep, since the Polo Minute Repeater shares the same movement as its predecessor: the cal. 1209P. This ultra-thin calibre was once the world’s thinnest minute repeater — a title it maintained for three years before the launch of the Bulgari BVL 362, based on a 1980s Gerald Genta calibre. The Polo is big but flat, measuring 48 mm wide but just 9.3 mm thick. The size is partly due to the movement construction, which spreads out the major component groups into two slim planes with the escapement, micro-rotor, and twin minute repeater hammers on on one level, and the racks and centripetal governor on top. This 2010s-era sizing is arguably out of step with current fads where small watches are all the rage, but the watch is elegant and evokes 1970s “jumbo” watches with its wide-but-flat profile. In any case, wearability is probably a moot point considering t...

Alto Returns with the Art 02

Alto Returns with the Art 02

Design-forward independent watchmaker Alto has kicked off Geneva Watch Days with its second model, the Art 02. While the most obvious difference is the addition of a matching bracelet, the entire watch has been refined and updated with a smaller case and an upgraded movement. Initial thoughts A dominant trend in independent watchmaking for the past several years has been the veneration of finishing. This focus has given rise to a growing number of overtly traditional time-only watches built and finished to a high standard. Alto belongs a class of design-led independents that promotes a different approach, one focused on how shapes and textures contribute to the wearing experience. This philosophy comes into sharper focus with the brand’s sophomore effort, the Art 02. While visually similar to its predecessor — enough that they would be hard to tell apart by an untrained eye — the Art 02 has been significantly refined and upgraded in several respects. First is the case, which is slightly thicker but much smaller in length and width, and a new proprietary calibre designed specifically for the Art 02. Then there’s the matching titanium bracelet, which is brushed and faceted to create a dazzling display of light and shadow. Surprisingly, the Art 02 is significantly less expensive than its predecessor. In fact, the retail price of €13,100 is just over half that of the Art 01 in “Monochrome Grey.” Considering the new calibre, proprietary bracelet, and similar bill ...

Alto refines the concept with the integrated bracelet ART 02

Alto refines the concept with the integrated bracelet ART 02

The young independent brand brings out its second watch with a smaller-sized case and a newly designed integrated bracelet.

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph, now in Prussian Blue

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph 6 days ago

First Look - The Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph, now in Prussian Blue

A new version of the L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph joins Chopard’s high-end collection, created as a numbered limited edition of 25 pieces. While the model retains the classical proportions and specifications of the green 2023 model, this new reference is distinguished by a rich Prussian Blue dial, retaining the L.U.C 03.07-L calibre with exceptional finishing […]

First Look - The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon (Incl. Video)

TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon 6 days ago

First Look - The New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon (Incl. Video)

Few brands are as intertwined with motorsports as TAG Heuer. Since the early days of the brand, then only known as Heuer, it has always had close ties with racing, predominantly thanks to its excellent mechanical stopwatches. The racing DNA resonates well within multiple collections, such as the iconic Carrera and Monaco. The Monza, however, […]

Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition

TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon 6 days ago

Introducing: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph Carbon Limited Edition

What We Know This weekend, Formula 1 returns to Ferrari's home track (for the series, at least) of Monza, and with that return, TAG Heuer is releasing a new version of the eponymous Monza Flyback Chronograph. The watch was originally released in 1976 to celebrate Ferrari's return to the top with the constructors' and drivers' Formula 1 championships, with its black-coated case setting the stage not only for the model's future but also for similar releases from Heuer (and later TAG Heuer). A Monza isn't a Monza unless it's black, so this new release fits the remit perfectly: a 42mm by 15.22mm case in forged carbon, with red accents on the dial. Often known as the Niki Lauda (after the driver who won the title in 1976), the original watch featured a lot of red (and was reissued over a decade ago), though the dial layout has changed significantly from the original. This time, that red has been swapped around, with accents on the minute-counting and chronograph hands, the combination pulsometer and tachymeter flange scale, and the flyback mark at 6 o'clock. The date is still included, moved to 9 o'clock (which in turn puts running seconds at 6 o'clock), but with an angled window. The indices are all printed, and the hands and hour markers use white Super-LumiNova. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Caliber TH20-12 automatic movement, running at 4Hz. TAG Heuer didn't provide specifications here, but past versions of the Monza with this movement had an 80-hour power rese...

First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

Chopard Revives 6 days ago

First Look - Chopard Revives its Classic Regulator with the New L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator

In the mid-1990s, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele embarked on an ambitious project to elevate Chopard’s watchmaking credentials by establishing an independent manufacturing facility in Fleurier – and succeeded. Following the development of the acclaimed ultra-thin automatic calibre 96.01-L, the manufacture released its first watch in 1997. Bearing the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C 1860 launched […]

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium

Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele 6 days ago

First Look - The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC.4-1 in Black Ceramised Titanium

Chopard co-president Karl Friedrich Scheufele resurrected the name Ferdinand Berthoud in 2015. An eminent Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his precision marine chronometers, Ferdinand Berthoud was given a second lease of life in Scheufele’s hands as an elite haute horlogerie brand that perpetuates the founder’s legacy of chronometric […]

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial

Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm 6 days ago

Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial

I bet that, if given a choice, Murphy Cooper would wear a different watch. In Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar (2014), “Murph” wears a black-dial watch with vintage elements, like cathedral hands, and probably a 42mm case. This gift from her father is pretty similar to the 2019 commercial release. A 38mm watch would fit her wrist […] Visit Murphy Cooper’s Choice: The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm With A New Blue Dial to read the full article.

First Look - The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding, now with a Mechanical Movement

Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding now 6 days ago

First Look - The Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Handwinding, now with a Mechanical Movement

Frederique Constant launched its Classics Moneta Moonphase in 2024, a compact and stylish dress watch with a distinctive retro-inspired coin-edge bezel. With a diameter of just 37mm and a slim height of 7.65mm, the watch was enthusiastically received, but because it is powered by a quartz movement, we did not cover it on MONOCHROME. However, […]

Seiko Expands The Speedtimer Collection With Four New References

Seiko Expands 6 days ago

Seiko Expands The Speedtimer Collection With Four New References

The Seiko Speedtimer has relatively quickly grown into a full collection of watches inspired by Seiko’s first automatic chronographs from the late ’60s and early ’70s. What began as a line of chronographs in 2021 has expanded into a broader collection of sports watches. Last year, Seiko introduced a series of three-handers that took the […] Visit Seiko Expands The Speedtimer Collection With Four New References to read the full article.

Hamilton's Murph 38 Gets a Blue Dial Inspired by Interstellar

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Hamilton s Murph 38 Gets 6 days ago

Hamilton's Murph 38 Gets a Blue Dial Inspired by Interstellar

As one of the most popular collector’s watches around the $1,000 price tier, Hamilton’s Khaki Field Murph 38mm is a known quantity at this point. With its great, wearable dimensions, versatile style, refined field watch attitude, and a spec list that ticks a lot of boxes, it’s been an enthusiast favorite that continues

First Look - Seiko Adds 4 new References to its Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Collection

Hamilton /Breiling venture Seiko was 6 days ago

First Look - Seiko Adds 4 new References to its Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Collection

A name with historical importance at Seiko, the Speedtimer refers to early wrist chronographs created by the brand back in 1969. Alongside Zenith and the Heuer/Hamilton/Breiling venture, Seiko was among the first three brands to launch an automatic chronograph movement with its calibre 6139 inside a watch named the Speedtimer. In recent years, this name […]

We chose our Omega Speedmaster - final picks revealed in the final episode

Omega Speedmaster — final picks 6 days ago

We chose our Omega Speedmaster - final picks revealed in the final episode

Four episodes. Four contenders. One watch. This is the moment Andrew McUtchen and Justin Hast have been building toward across the entire Omega Speedmaster: Four Ways to Fly to the Moon series — and it’s time to put their money where their mouths are. In this final episode, both men sit down with all four … Continued

IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team: Purple Is the New Black

IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team: Purple Is the New Black 6 days ago

IWC Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team: Purple Is the New Black

IWC drops a bold purple-dialed Pilot chronograph timed to the Singapore Grand Prix, and it's one of the more striking F1 collabs we've seen from Schaffhausen in a while.

Recommended Reading: John Nagayama's '96' Is An Essential Guide To The Rarest Of Patek Philippe's Quintessential Calatravas

Patek Philippe s Quintessential Calatravas Aug 31, 2026

Recommended Reading: John Nagayama's '96' Is An Essential Guide To The Rarest Of Patek Philippe's Quintessential Calatravas

In this week's edition of our ongoing book review column, I thought it was a good time to highlight a reference that's been sitting on my shelf for a while but was sadly out of stock by the time it arrived at my place two years ago. Well, luckily for us, John Nagayama's masterful Patek Philippe tome, simply called "96," has been reprinted, and out of the 450 copies released for sale just a few weeks ago, there are still a couple left. John Nagayama, at his old office in Tokyo, Japan. John Nagayama, known as @johnbehalf on Instagram, is the undisputed king of the reference 96. That's saying something. The long-lived, miniature (by today's standards) time-only Patek Philippe has become the framework and measuring stick for basically every dress watch that's come since, and long-time collectors have never turned a blind eye to it. But recent interest, driven by Mike Nouveau over on TikTok in particular, and acceptance of a 30.5mm watch has put it back on the map. But Japan, where Nagayama is based, became the Mecca for small watches and 96 obsessives. Nagayama has probably forgotten more than nearly anyone will ever know about time-only Patek. And he doesn't forget hardly anything. If you browse his site, you'll see some super esoteric stuff. While writing this, his homepage featured one of the 10 known ref. 433, this one in platinum and rose, with an amazing three-color dial. His personal collection (from which he pulled four amazing watches for a past story we did in Japan)...

First Look - Indie Watchmaker Alexandre Martin Launches his Debut Watch, the Superb 1965

First Look - Indie Watchmaker Alexandre Martin Launches his Debut Watch, the Superb 1965

There is currently a real wave of new, young independent watchmakers launching their own brand, and we are always delighted to showcase their work at MONOCHROME. One of the latest among them is Alexandre Martin, a 28-year-old Belgian who has just opened his workshop in Morges, Switzerland, near Lausanne. Named “1965” after the birth year […]

Auctions: Auction House Phillips Walks Back Claim Early Résonance Delivered in 1999 After F.P. Journe Statement

F.P. Journe Statement Auction house Phillips Aug 31, 2026

Auctions: Auction House Phillips Walks Back Claim Early Résonance Delivered in 1999 After F.P. Journe Statement

Auction house Phillips has walked back and corrected a claim that an early, pre-production Chronmètre à Résonance watch, set to come up for sale in November, was delivered in 1999 after the watchmaker F.P. Journe said it arrived the next year and wasn't the first example of the reference sent to a customer. "We stand corrected thanks to François-Paul Journe," Phillips said in an Instagram post. "The "Pre-Production" Chronomètre à Résonance 022/99 to be offered by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on November 7-8 was not delivered in 1999 as we originally believed. Thanks to F.P.Journe we now know the watch was actually delivered on 8 June, 2000," the auction house added. The Phillips correction followed the publication of a letter signed by F.P. Journe that disputed Phillips' claim that the watch with serial number 022/99 was likely one of the first Résonance watches commercially sold and delivered. In announcing the sale of the watch, which will hit the auction block in November in Geneva, Phillips had said the consignor and original owner of the watch had taken delivery of the piece in 1999. The auction house also suggested in a press release that the watch could be one of, if not the first, commercially delivered examples of the Résonance, often heralded as the signature watch from the French watchmaker. Phillips did not say it had confirmed that the watch was the first of the reference commercially delivered. In the letter titled "Correction," ...

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero

Introducing - The New Superlight Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero

Officially launched just two years ago, Gagà Laboratorio is a spin-off of the longstanding Italian luxury designer watchmaker Gagà Milano. The inaugural Labormatic line encapsulates the brand’s highly creative mechanical personality, underscored by 1950s Italian industrial design codes and powered by Swiss La Joux-Perret movements. Instead of traditional hands, the Labormatic displays the digital hours […]

Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight

Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight

Since 2020, Gagà Laboratorio has produced distinctive wristwatches with Italian flair and Swiss precision. The company’s catalog comprises two model lines, the Labormatic and the Aqualab. Both are progressively designed and appear to be the types of pieces that could cost as much as a high-end sports car. However, that couldn’t be further from the […] Visit Even In Titanium, The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero Is No Lightweight to read the full article.

A Colorful Celebration Of Life: The IFL Watches × Out Of Order Shaker Happy Hour

A Colorful Celebration Of Life: The IFL Watches × Out Of Order Shaker Happy Hour

IFL Watches keeps surprising us with fun, colorful watches that celebrate culture, art, and life in general. For its newest release, IFLW celebrates life with Italian brand Out of Order. OOO is known for creating watches with a distinctive, worn appearance. Now, for their first collaboration, the two brands created the special Shaker Happy Hour, […] Visit A Colorful Celebration Of Life: The IFL Watches × Out Of Order Shaker Happy Hour to read the full article.

Live from GWD26: Hands-on with the Amazing Rexhep Rexhepi Chrono Flyback

Rexhep Rexhepi Chrono Flyback Day -1 Aug 31, 2026

Live from GWD26: Hands-on with the Amazing Rexhep Rexhepi Chrono Flyback

Day -1 of GWD began with an impromptu visit to the Rexhep Rehepi Ateliers and had hands-on with the Chronograph Flyback Prototype No.1.

Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton 'Milano Blue' in Rose Gold

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Milano Aug 31, 2026

Introducing: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton 'Milano Blue' in Rose Gold

What We Know This morning, just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a new limited-edition take on its Tonda PF Skeleton. This new watch does something so many Parmigiani watches do so well, blending several existing elements to create something just a little bit new. In this instance, Parmigiani Fleurier has taken its Milano Blue skeletonized Tonda PF dial and movement—which had previously been available only in platinum—and fitted them to a rose gold Tonda PF case (and bracelet). The Tonda PF case is one of the key arguments in favor of modern Parmigiani Fleurier. At 40mm across and just 8.5mm thick, it's well-sized and thin without feeling slight. Still, for as good as the Tonda PF is, the star of the show here is the movement. The PF777 (which you can read a bit more about here) is an automatic winding caliber developed in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier. Unlike many movements that find their way into skeletonized watches, the PF777 was purpose-built and designed from first principles with skeletonization in mind. The result of this — and of Parmigiani's willingness to not take skeletonization to the absolute extreme, but rather to implement the concept with some modicum of consideration — is a movement that balances aesthetic concerns with practical ones and is all the better for it. A blend of polished, satin-finished, and sandblasted surfaces keeps the PF777 feeling contemporary, and the ground-up design means the watch avoids many of th...

Benrus DTU-2A/P Review: Why 34mm Still Makes Sense for a Military Watch

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Benrus DTU-2A/P Review: Why 34mm Still Makes Sense for a Military Watch

The Benrus DTU-2A/P brings historically accurate proportions together with modern upgrades and an ETA automatic movement.

First Look - The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Aug 31, 2026

First Look - The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue

The Tonda PF collection by Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the most appealing contemporary takes on the luxury sports watch genre. Elegant, discreet and deliberately restrained, the collection has always favoured proportion and refined details over overtly demonstrative design. The same approach has been applied to the skeletonised versions, and now the brand introduces a new […]

Milano Blue brings a new depth to Parmigiani Fleurier’s rose gold Tonda PF Skeleton

Parmigiani Fleurier s rose gold Tonda Aug 31, 2026

Milano Blue brings a new depth to Parmigiani Fleurier’s rose gold Tonda PF Skeleton

Parmigiani Fleurier unveils the Tonda PF Skeleton in rose gold and Milano Blue, featuring the openworked in-house PF777 calibre.

An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Aug 31, 2026

An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue

Parmigiani Fleurier introduces a new 30-piece limited edition Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold Milano Blue. It builds upon the other four Tonda PF Skeleton configurations — Rose Gold Graphite, Steel Platinum Graphite, Platinum Milano Blue, and Steel Platinum Slate Green. Although this might seem like another version of the same thing, those who know and […] Visit An Elegant Skeletonized Watch: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton Rose Gold In Milano Blue to read the full article.