1,022 articles · 102 videos found · page 31 of 38
Monochrome
In our series on historically significant calibres, the best way to honour the El Primero calibre is by highlighting its qualities, functional characteristics, and pivotal role in shaping the watchmaking industry. While the tale of its salvation in 1976, along with that of Zenith as a company, by a courageous man defying the ill will […]
Monochrome
Simplicity is nothing to be ashamed of, especially when it’s done right. And with the Peseux 7001, a movement that’s pretty much remained unchanged since it was launched over half a century ago, things have been done very right. This calibre is watchmaking reduced to the essence, yet it’s capable of great things! Despite its […]
Monochrome
This spring, Montblanc introduced the latest addition to the Unveiled Minerva series, the Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. Like the 2022-2023 releases, the Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronographs, it showcases the beautiful mechanics of the underlying movement in an exciting and visually captivating way. The new Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph continues the inverted calibre concept with […]
Monochrome
Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]
Monochrome
Five years ago, Kari Vouitilainen‘s atelier unveiled an exciting evolution of the brand’s signature time-only Vingt-8 series, the Voutilainen 28TI model with an inverted calibre. The 28TI (Titanium Inverse) watch, with its sumptuous detailing and delicate decoration, brought to the fore movement components that were previously visible through the sapphire caseback, allowing an impressive display […]
Monochrome
With ArtyA, founder Yvan Arpa has formed a truly unique vision of watchmaking. ArtyA watches are undoubtedly spectacular pieces that boldly venture beyond the mainstream. The independent watchmaking brand now unveils 3 different and original takes on a rare, haute horlogerie classic. Its elaborate movement unites two “grandes complications” in one calibre: a minute repeater […]
SJX Watches
RGM Watch Co. recently bestowed an artisanal touch on its time-only Model 25 with the “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” with a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a miniature painting that reproduces a drawing from John James Audubon’s famous book of the same name. Notably, the Birds of America is also equipped with an ETA calibre upgraded by RGM to have a power reserve that’s 30% longer. Initial thoughts RGM was historically a guilloche specialist – notably the brand does traditional engine turning in house – so the Birds of America is a logical diversification that continues the brand’s speciality. Though the artisan responsible for the miniature painting is unnamed, the dial is impressively rendered with a skilful depiction of the bird. The details of the ibis are practically as vivid as in Audubon’s illustration. Interestingly, the Birds of America is not merely a stylistic exercise. A significant feature is the upgraded ETA 2892 inside that has a 53-56 hour power reserve, a significant enhancement over the standard 44 hours, which was achieved with in-house upgrades according to RGM. This release is priced at U$17,900, and comparable commissions depicting others birds from Audubon’s book will cost similar. It’s more affordable than comparable watches from established Swiss brands, making it a relatively good value proposition. After Audubon The latest release is based on a plate depicting the glossy ibis in The Birds of America, the landmark work by...
Monochrome
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s dream of mechanical independence materialised in 1996 with the presentation of Chopard‘s first in-house movement known as calibre 1.96. Produced in Chopard’s Fleurier manufacture, the calibre was fitted inside the first L.U.C 1860 watch, writing a new chapter in the brand’s high-end watchmaking journey. Recognised as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor automatic […]
Monochrome
The ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement is well-known in the world of watchmaking for being tough, reliable, and versatile. Since it was first introduced in the early 1970s, it has gained a strong reputation for being accurate and long-lasting, which has made it a favourite chronograph calibre among both watchmakers and enthusiasts. In addition, the […]
SJX Watches
Tissot added to the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette collection of accessibly-priced skeleton watches. Sharing the same exact case design as last year’s updated model, the trio of new additions have open-worked dials that display the inner workings of the Powermatic 80 calibre. Both the styling and movement are no-frills, and matched with a price below US$1,000, making them a good option for the beginner enthusiast. Initial thoughts Tissot is known for affordable Swiss-made watches and the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is exactly that. The novelty of the watch lies in the open dial that reveals the skeleton movement. Although the calibre isn’t fancily executed, it is cleanly finished and provides visual detail that sets this apart from most similarly priced watches. The design is also enhanced by the fact that it doesn’t have a date, which gives the dial a clean, symmetrical appearance. Priced between US$895 and US$975, the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is a good value proposition, especially since skeleton watches are not common in this price segment. Entry-level skeleton While the sporty PRX collection is now its most high profile product, the brand overhauled the Chemin des Tourelles line last year. Named after the street where the Tissot headquarters are located, Chemin des Tourelles is made up of dress watches, with the skeleton model being the top-of-the-line. The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has a case that’s 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, with a domed ...
SJX Watches
Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...
SJX Watches
An ambitious evolution of its signature square-cased chronograph, the Monaco Split-Seconds was first revealed as a unique piece for Only Watch. Although the regular production version was launched earlier this year, the one-off example made for Only Watch remains unique for the finishing on the case and movement. Initial thoughts Powered by a sophisticated Vaucher calibre, the Monaco rattrapante is mostly made of titanium – the alloy is used for the case and movement – and a deft evolution of the Monaco case. On the wrist, the watch feels good as it is noticeably lightweight despite being quite large. The case design is evidently derived from the original but smartly reworked to give it a more pronounced, stylised form. Details like the facetted sapphire crystals and oversized pushers complement the styling. Overall, the aesthetic is the hyper-mechanical look of the same school as Richard Mille and Hublot, but here executed to a high level thanks to the Vaucher calibre that’s hand finished. The only element of the design I would do away with is the “X” bridge on the dial, which feels like an affectation that doesn’t really do much for the design. But overall the aesthetic is cohesive and appealing. Importantly, the watch acquits itself well up close. The finishing on the titanium bridges and plates of the movement is particularly impressively, given the difficulty of achieving a mirror polish on the alloy. And because the Vaucher calibre is a high-end construct...
Monochrome
A strong advocate of French watchmaking and a brand with history, Yema keeps upgrading its collection with more horological content and designs to please vintage enthusiasts. This blend of modern watchmaking and historic looks was the base of the recently presented Superman Slim CMM.20, the icon of the brand powered by a manufacture micro-rotor calibre developed and assembled in France. Now, it's time for the Navygraf, the other dive watch of Yema to be upgraded and refined with these nice mechanics. Meet the new Navygraf Slim CMM.20 diver.
SJX Watches
The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...
SJX Watches
Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...
Monochrome
A Swiss-born brand then relocated to Germany, Hanhart has a long tradition of making pilot’s watches. Mostly, its chronographs equipped with the calibre 40 and 42 have been some of the defining models for the genre, proving their reliability on battlefields and on the wrist of many airforces after conflicts. For its latest release, Hanhart […]
Monochrome
During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]
Monochrome
In 2020, for its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko unveiled two milestones: a new automatic, hi-beat movement named calibre 9SA5 and a new collection of watches with an updated design language known as Evolution 9. It took us and the watch community a bit of time to understand the importance of this move by the Japanese watchmaker; […]
SJX Watches
Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...
Fratello
Five years ago, Omega introduced the last limited-edition Speedmaster models. Who would have thought? After a good ~25 years of introducing many different Speedmaster limited editions, sometimes even more than one per year, the brand just stopped. Well, not entirely, of course, because although the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary […] Visit The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years to read the full article.
Monochrome
Back in 2020, Czapek launched its Antarctique, the brand’s first luxury sports watch that simultaneously featured the brand’s first in-house calibre. The design followed the codes of what a luxury sports watch is said to be, with a shaped case, integrated bracelet and a textured dial. But Czapek being Czapek, it didn’t cut any corners. […]
Monochrome
Considered the precursor of the luxury sports watch category, the Royal Oak turned fifty in 2022. As expected, Audemars Piguet went to town to fete its icon with a host of celebratory models. However, the excitement grew when AP unveiled the first 39mm Jumbo to be fitted with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon (calibre 2968). Officially […]
Time+Tide
This stunning blue collab is a send-off for the legendary Calibre 5134.The post John Mayer joins forces with Audemars Piguet for a dazzling Royal Oak QP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has just debuted a new 38mm 62GS case, and these two new models are the first to use a hi-beat calibre and titanium case within the 62GS collection.The post The new Grand Seiko SBGH341 & SBGH343 debut the modern 62GS case in a new 38mm size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Any serious watch buff is familiar with the story of Zenith’s El Primero high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre of 1969. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and Zenith’s iconic movement ticks on thanks to upgrades and ever-higher frequencies to track elapsed times. A variant of the brand’s famous Zenith Chronomaster – itself a descendant of the iconic […]
Monochrome
In 2021, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport, equipped with the innovative and seriously revised version of the El Primero, calibre 3600, incorporating modern materials and manufacturing techniques, elevating its functionality. Fast forward three years and the Chronomaster Sport has seamlessly integrated into Zenith’s catalogue. A contemporary and legit embodiment of vintage-inspired elegance, it stands out […]
SJX Watches
A year after revamping Pilot collection with fresh-faced aesthetics, Zenith releases a pair of boutique editions – the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback. Both feature blue dials with a linear horizontal pattern inspired by stamped aluminium body panels of vintage aircraft. Initial thoughts Zenith is best known for El Primero of 1969, a high-frequency chronograph calibre now in its second generation, which is the movement found in both new Pilot models, although the former is not a chronograph. Both, however, share the same design that defines the current Pilot line-up. Unveiled last year, the Pilot has a friendlier, more modern face than most aviator’s watches that tend to be military-inspired. It has all of the hallmarks of a pilot’s watch, including large Arabic numerals and legibility, but manages to look distinct from all the other pilot’s watches on the market. Although blue is hardly a novel colour, the new patterned dials adds to the contemporary look, being even less military-esque than last year’s models in conventional black. The Pilot Automatic retails for US$7,500, while the Pilot Big Date Flyback retails for US$11,500. The time-and-date automatic is relatively pricey for a simple watch, although the high-beat, in-house movement helps justify the price somewhat. On the other hand, the chronograph is competitive against similar watches from rival brands, particularly since the calibre inside is the latest generation of the El Primero. Moreov...
Monochrome
Frederique Constant, renowned, among other things, for its remarkable price-to-quality ratio, surprised the watch community with its original Slimline Perpetual Calendar model 2016. This competitively priced (under EUR 10,000) watch, equipped with the brand’s FC-775 perpetual calendar calibre, quickly gained recognition. In 2022, Frederique Constant presented an unexpected update to this model through a collaboration […]
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.