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Results for Powermatic 80 (ETA C07.111)

994 articles · 41 videos found · page 31 of 35

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 5, 2022

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon

As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is). Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022. The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore Initial thoughts Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself. In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also ...

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How Do You Achieve Chronometric Perfection? Revolution
De Bethune s Denis Flageollet Frässdorf’s Aug 12, 2022

How Do You Achieve Chronometric Perfection?

Wei and Jeremiah geek out over the different approaches taken by two independent watchmakers in their pursuit of chronometric perfection: Montres KF’s Karsten Frässdorf and De Bethune’s Denis Flageollet. Frässdorf’s EI8HT Evolution Meteorite is the latest iteration of the bespoke only EI8HT released in 2020 – a modern interpretation of centuries old inventions. Flageollet’s approach […]

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Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Service Centre Jul 28, 2022

Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore

Patek Philippe is one of the most revered watch brands but an outlier amongst its peers in relying almost entirely on independent retailers to sell its watches. Of the hundreds of Patek Philippe points-of-sale around the world, the brand owns just three. But the converse is true for its after-sales service where the brand is almost entirely vertically integrated. Patek Philippe will soon own and operate ten service centres in key cities around the world, backed up with four of its own watchmaking institutes. The Geneva watchmaker does this to fulfil its pledge of being able to repair and maintain “all timepieces ever made by Patek Philippe since production began in 1839”. Consolidation and consistency In pursuit of a uniformly high standard of service across the world, Patek Philippe is in the process of consolidating its service network from a peak of 59 service centres worldwide, some of which were run by independent retailers, to just ten key locations. Amongst the regional centres are one each in Germany, France, and the United States, but most will be located in Asia – the brand’s biggest market – in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, and Singapore. All of the ten will be run by Patek Philippe itself, or more specifically, its regional subsidiaries. The Singapore service centre, for instance, is run by Geneva Master Time (GMT), Patek Philippe’s subsidiary for Southeast Asia. GMT also has a smaller service centre in Bangkok, a necessity given that Thailand i...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Monchard Skytrain Telemeter Chronograph Time+Tide
Jul 25, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Monchard Skytrain Telemeter Chronograph

Vintage military-inspired watches can sometimes seem like an easy path for microbrands to go down, but there are plenty of pitfalls and traps along the way. If you get the sizing wrong, you alienate a huge chunk of potential buyers. If there’s a certain detail out of place on the dial, again you’ve lost interest. … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Monchard Skytrain Telemeter Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass with Blued Steel SJX Watches
De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass Jun 22, 2022

De Bethune Fills Marc Newson’s Hourglass with Blued Steel

Designed a decade ago by Marc Newson, the industrial designer most famous for his Lockheed Lounge chair and the Apple Watch, the sleek hourglass is exceedingly simple yet remarkably complex to fabricate. It’s made of a single piece of glass – blown by hand in Switzerland – and filled with millions of tiny metal spheres known as nanoballs. De Bethune has applied its signature heat treatment to the object, resulting in the De Bethune x HG Timepiece Blue Hourglass, a limited edition pair of large and small timekeepers filled with heat-blued steel nanoballs. Initial thoughts More sculpture than timekeeper, the hourglass is a beautiful object that is incredibly simple yet impressive in its artisanal nature. The glass is blown by hand yet perfectly in form and proportions. The De Bethune touch adds another level of beauty to the object. Instead of the plated nanoballs found in the standard version of the hourglass, the Blue Hourglass contains blue nanoballs heat treated by Denis Flageollet himself. However, the addition of Mr Flageollet’s talents to the prowess of Swiss glassblowers comes at a high price. The smaller, 10-minute Blue Hourglass costs CHF25,000, more than double the price of the standard hourglass with plated nanoballs. That’s affordable relative to everything else than De Bethune makes, but it’s a steep premium for the hourglass. Tinkling timekeepers The Blue Hourglass is available in the two standard sizes: the larger, 60-minute timer and a smaller 10...

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EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer Time+Tide
Patek Philippe ad if you will Jun 19, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer

EDITOR’S NOTE: Blame it on a certain Patek Philippe ad if you will, but the idea of the watch as a family heirloom passed down from father to son retains a special emotive power. Today, in many parts of the world, it’s Father’s Day and that’s a good enough reason for us to revisit D.C’s … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports GMT SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports GMT

Having received a facelift in 2019, the Seiko 5 Sports collection draws on the ubiquitous and much loved “SKX” dive watch for its styling, but is lighter on features and easier on the wallet. Now Seiko has unveiled the Seiko 5 Sports Style GMT, which looks even more like an SKX thanks to its five-link bracelet. But its key feature is actually a major function upgrade: the two-tone bezel and 24-hour hand make it a dual-time zone travel watch. The SSK003 with a blue-and-black bezel and red GMT hand Initial thoughts Though similar to the base-model Seiko 5 Sports, the GMT distinguishes itself by virtue of design. It possesses the same overall look but boasts more refined stylistic details like the five-link bracelet and bezel with smart typography, which gives it a more upscale look than the standard model. At the same time, the GMT has a bit more flair than an actual SKX diver (which is a nevertheless is a more accomplished dive watch) as a result of its dual time zone function. I like the added colour contrast between the 24-hour hand and dial, as well as the subtly two-tone bezel. And even though it has more elements due to the extra function, the design and details are restrained. And it’s worth mentioning that while the bracelet has the same Jubilee-esque aesthetics as that of the SKX diver, it has been upgraded with solid end links, which means it should feel less dinky that the SKX bracelet. All three versions are executed well The only downside of the watch i...

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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos May 15, 2022

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Dome Clock Ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”

Longtime Patek Philippe retailer in Singapore Cortina Watch marks its 50th anniversary in 2022 with a series of limited edition watches, including the Calatrava ref. 5057G, a remake a 1997 reference created expressly for Cortina by Patek Philippe. But besides the 100-piece ref. 5057G, Patek Philippe created something even more special for the occasion, the Dome Clock ref. 20145M-001 “Singapore Skyline”. Like most Dome Clocks, the Singapore Skyline is a unique piece decorated entirely in enamel, primarily cloisonné but also gold powder and paillons. The clock bears a commemorative engraving on its base The 50th anniversary clock is not for sale, instead it will join Cortina’s own collection that already includes the Dome Clock ref. 1677M “The Esplanade – Singapore”. Created in 2015 for Singapore’s 50th year of independence, the “Esplanade” Dome Clock served as inspiration for the Singapore Skyline – together the two Dome Clocks form a perfect pair. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe may be most famous today for its sports watches, but its Dome Clocks are just as emblematic of the brand. In terms of large-format timekeepers the Dome Clock is amongst the most recognisable in horology, ranking alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos and Cartier Mystery Clock as an iconic design. At the same time, Dome Clocks are exceedingly rare, with perhaps a dozen made every year. Within Patek Philippe’s repertoire of timepieces, Dome Clocks are the most artistic. Each Do...

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

A hidden gem amongst Vacheron Constantin’s sports watches, the Overseas Tourbillon is thin, understated, and good value as such things go. Now it receives a thorough makeover. Gone is the dial and excess metal from the bridges, creating the new Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton. Available in two metals, the titanium variant is particularly intriguing as it’s a metal that is rarely used by the haute horlogerie watchmaker. Titanium with blue accents Initial thoughts Though polar opposites aesthetically, the Skeleton is every bit as handsome as the standard Overseas Tourbillon. In terms of finishing, aesthetics and watchmaking, the Tourbillon Skeleton is top of its class not only in the luxury-sports category but even among the brand’s other offerings. A reason for this is the well proportioned case that measures 42.5 mm wide and only 10.39 mm tall. This results in elegant, flat-and-wide proportions that defines the most desirable luxury sports watches. These proportions gives the watch a sporty aesthetic that is further enhanced by the blackened, skeletonised movement. In comparison, the base Overseas model is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker.   It’s also thinner than a open-worked Royal Oak and Laureato tourbillon The movement within is notable for balancing simplicity and complexity, which tends to be a challenge for skeletonised movements. In comparison, I find the latest Royal Oak Openworked Tourbillon too nuanced and the GP Laureato Openworked Tourbillon t...

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Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega SJX Watches
Omega Perhaps Mar 24, 2022

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega

Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional. The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag. And the MoonSwatch is next level in terms of range. Whereas the original Moonwatch is mostly black, Swatch offers almost dozen variants of the MoonSwatch, each dedicated to the most significant bodies of the solar system, such as the Sun, Moon, and Mars. The MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars”, a tribute to the Speedmaster “Alaska Project” but with the entire case in bright red ceramic Initial thoughts The MoonSwatch is an exemplary crossover because its encapsulates the specialties of each brand. Combining the quintessential cheerful style of Swatch with Omega’s iconic Moonwatch results in a fun, lighthearted watch that’s very affordable. But it’s also a shocking product because the two brands are poles apart in terms of positioning and pricing. Put simply, an Omega strap costs more than the average Swatch watch. Swatch is clearly the winner. It’s an especially shrewd move for the maker of plastic watches, since some of the prestige and historical significance of Omega rubs off onto Swatch. As for Omega, it’s a purposeful act of brand dilution, no doubt in the hope that it brings the brand to a new audience that will aspire to own the real d...

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Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection Time+Tide
Omega x Swatch blast off Mar 23, 2022

Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection

Standing in the Omega HQ in Bienne, Petros Protopapas is visibly excited. The Brand Heritage Director of Omega is holding forth under a vast cosmic backdrop that depicts the planets in technicolour detail in a star-lit sky. “This revolutionises the Swiss watch industry for me,” declares Petros with tangible emotion in his voice. “This is what … ContinuedThe post Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 10, 2022

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch in Moonshine Gold

In 2021, Omega revamped its ubiquitous Moonwatch, giving it a thorough makeover that included an upgraded movement in the form of the Master Co-Axial cal. 3861. This year, Omega follows up with the Speedmaster Moonwatch 42 mm Moonshine Gold. Omega’s proprietary pale-yellow gold alloy, Moonshine Gold was developed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Moon landing, so it comes as no surprise that the alloy has made its way into the latest-generation Speedmaster with the cal. 3861. The “panda” dial in solid Moonshine Gold with black registers Initial thoughts The Speedmaster Moonshine Gold Speedmasters are possibly the most striking version of the latest Moonwatch (though the Canopus Gold is a close second). Both iterations of the Speedmaster Moonshine Gold are in popular colours; green is currently hot and while Omega may not score points in originality, the brand is delivering what the market wants at the moment. That said, the execution of the new Speedmasters is done well. The restrained use of modern material such as ceramic for the bezel insert gives the watch a polished yet traditional look, allowing it to retain the essence of its bestselling model. Put simply, it still looks like a Speedmaster Moonwatch, which is what matters. And the unique, pale yellow tone of Moonshine Gold gives the new Speedmaster a slightly vintage look, albeit one with elements that are clearly modern. At the same time, the colour of the metal allows for a subtlety in appearance in spi...

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Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Feb 10, 2022

Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch

After several years of drift – and a low-priced, Kickstarter-type watch – Baume & Mercier has finally returned with something surprisingly interesting. Based on the brand’s trademark oblong watch, the Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” is based on reproduces a work by the titular French artist on its dial in textured, three-dimensional relief. With the dial pattern apparent only up close and the case entirely in matte black, the aesthetic is strikingly low key. Like Mr Soulages’ best known works, the dial relies on texture, direction, and the absence of colour, although concessions are made for branding and time telling. Initial thoughts Though some of its ladies’ watches do well in certain markets, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) has had a difficult recent history. While cycling through several chief executives, the brand also launched a great variety of products over the period, but none of them really caught on. But now it has created something unexpected. The concept is straightforward – a dial that recreates a work of art – but it still manages to be original and unusual. Despite its simplicity, the watch manages to capture the artist’s spirit on a tiny canvas. The monochrome finish and emphasis on texture is exactly what Mr Soulages himself is famous for. The retail price of a bit under US$6,000 is pretty steep for a time-only watch powered by a stock ETA 2892, but several factors count in its favour. One is the intrinsic appeal of the watch, and another...

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Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Jan 13, 2022

Up Close: Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...

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Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Piaget tourbillon Nov 22, 2021

Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Complicated watches naturally come at a high cost of entry compared with simpler watches, at least at retail. But on the secondary market they can offer compelling value – except for a handful of “hot” watches (and we included one of those in the list too). At the same time, complications are intrinsically appealing because they possess the sheer technical quality that’s a key quality of high-end watchmaking. And there A. Lange & Söhne is no doubt a standout, especially for its watches that are considered benchmarks in their category, like the Datograph and Zeitwerk. So we round up a few highlights amongst the complications at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, covering a few value buys and also some star picks by Lange. So the list is diverse, ranging from the ultra-desirable Lange Datograph Lumen to a Piaget tourbillon with a form movement that is technically interesting and definitely strong value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. The movement in the Datograph Lumen Lot 833: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen One of Lange’s trademark complications is the chronograph, simply because it does chronographs so well. It all started in 1999 with the Datograph. It’s still considered a landmark in modern chronographs two decades later for its fine, traditional construction. The model has been offered in s...

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The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case Deployant
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 new Nov 13, 2021

The alternative sports watch: Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, new in Titanium case

The watch is an excellent offering from the brand, and is very appealing within the the dive/sports range chronograph segment. Overall, the watch looks great, and has a pedigree movement to run it. At a retail price of US$28,700 for 18K white or rose gold and US$18,500 for titanium, the watch presents a much welcome variety to the dominant Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore and Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

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EDITOR’S PICK: @fakewatchbusta asks, is it EVER ok to wear a fake watch? Time+Tide
Rolex Nov 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: @fakewatchbusta asks, is it EVER ok to wear a fake watch?

Editor’s Note: In an interview from the forthcoming issue of NOW, Time+Tide’s annual Watch Buying Guide, we interviewed a guy who unrepentantly wears a fake Rolex. After trying and failing to buy a real Daytona at retail, he bought a “super-clone” that he claims will be a stop-gap until the day he hopefully gets the … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: @fakewatchbusta asks, is it EVER ok to wear a fake watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Deployant
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 Oct 30, 2021

Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42

The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.

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Urwerk Unveils the UR-112 Aggregat SJX Watches
Urwerk Unveils Oct 27, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-112 Aggregat

For some two-and-a-half decades, Urwerk – along with a handful of other independent watchmakers – has been at the cutting edge of the the presentation of time. While the three-dimensional, satellite-cube hours has long been its trademark complication, Urwerk has nevertheless continued to evolve its mechanics, resulting in similarly futuristic watches such as the UR-111C with its linear time display on a rotating drum. And its latest invention is perhaps the brand’s most notable since the debut of the satellite cube display. A followup to the UR-111C, the UR-112 Aggregat retains the same form as its immediate predecessor, and continues to display hours and minutes displayed in a pair of glass cylinders. But the UR-112 is more complicated, with the hours and minutes indicated by swivelling prisms. And its case has an aggressive, military feel that brings to mind the Tumbler of Christopher Nolan’s Dark Knight films. Initial thoughts As the UR-112 is part of the Special Project Collection – the models within are essentially one-off production runs – it is disconnected with Urwerk’s recent inclination towards slimmer, streamlined designs. The UR-112 is an appealing and intriguing example of watchmaking, and very much typical of Urwerk. Importantly, it is impressive yet unpretentious – it does not replicate past designs, nor does it try to be fashionable. Notable for being entirely digital with its time display, the UR-112 indicates the the hours and minutes ...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen”

Having launched the second-generation Zeitwerk movement two years ago with a date display, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the base model with the same calibre – except it’s not exactly a base model. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” reimagines the Zeitwerk Phantom of 2010, but with a second-generation movement – which means a longer power reserve and quickset hours – and a case in 18k Honeygold, the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Initial thoughts Lange is certainly introducing second-generation Zeitwerk in style. The combination of Honeygold and the tinted sapphire dial is striking – it is a good looking watch – while the improved movement removes all of the inconveniences of the first-generation calibre. It is essentially a revisit of the Zeitwerk Phantom, but that takes nothing away from it. Enough time has passed since the Phantom that an encore is welcome, and it is also different enough with the Honeygold case and second-generation calibre. The only bit I wish was different is the red marking on the power reserve indicator. I’m not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial, and adds colour to what should be a monochromatic design. At €114,000 the new Zeitwerk is a chunk of change but it’s not exorbitant considering the complication. And perhaps more relevant is the fact the secondary market values for past Lumen editions have escalated rapidly, which makes this inexpensive in comparison. Mechanic...

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Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Sep 28, 2021

Chopard Introduces the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

First introduced in 2012 in the L.U.C 8HF, Chopard’s proprietary escapement was notable for being ultra-high frequency, running at twice the speed of a conventional escapement, and also one of the first such escapements to make it to serial production. But whatever the merits, the brand’s past high-frequency watches were a mixed bag in terms of design, and for that reason the brand’s technical accomplishment never gained the recognition it deserved. But now the 8 Hz escapement finally arrives in an appealing package, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. Initial thoughts The new Alpine Eagle is an unusual combination of a luxury-sports watch and an interesting movement with a novel escapement that runs at twice the normal speed. Like the standard version of the Alpine Eagle, the Cadence 8HF is finished to an impressively high level on the case and bracelet. That’s especially more impressive given that it’s entirely titanium, instead of steel. The design does come in for some minor criticism – the polished centre links of the bracelet are too narrow – but it is still good looking. And the Cadence 8HF has a cleaned up dial, which adds to the appeal. While impressive technically, the movement isn’t too much to look at, since the finishing is workmanlike and monochromatic. That said, the movement’s aesthetics suit the style (and price) of the watch perfectly. The Cadence 8HF is almost 50% more expensive than the regular model in steel – but it’s worth the stretc...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...

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Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition SJX Watches
Aug 20, 2021

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition

Having just concluded, Monterey Car Week was a series of shows and auctions, concluding with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The week was the venue for Porsche 911 specialist Singer Vehicle Design to exhibit the DLS for the first time in the United States. Launched in 2018, the DLS is a Porsche 964 that’s been entirely remade to be ultra-light and ultra-aerodynamic. To go along with the car, Singer Reimagined rolled out the Track 1 DLS Edition. It’s a new take on Singer’s trademark central chronograph, reimagined to be, well, ultra-light, while retaining its recognisable case design and thoroughly original Agenhor movement. Initial thoughts Because it combines a distinct, retro design along with a truly ingenious movement, I like the Track 1 (and I own another version of the watch). The DLS is essentially a condensed version of the same thing – and it’s cool. The aesthetic is pared-back just enough, while the composite case is an interesting novelty. Though the material is common in watchmaking, it’s a first for Singer. The only shortcoming I can uncover is a philosophical one: the DLS Edition echoes its namesake automobile with lightweight materials, but unlike the car, it doesn’t make any functional changes. The movement is identical to that of the standard model, but it is admittedly an excellent and innovative movement. Still, all that’s a moot point given that the watch is only available to owners of the car, of which there will be just 75. ...

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Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers

It was Voltaire that said: “If God did not exist, it would be necessary to invent him”. The same can be said of watch auctions and two people of note in the watch industry, collector and dealer Eric Ku and retailer Justin Gruenberg.  An online auction platform that worked for them did not exist, so … ContinuedThe post Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal Aug 19, 2021

In-Depth: The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Cal. 3861

Having finally retired the decades-old version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch powered by the cal. 1861, Omega announced its successor at the start of the year. Equipped with the new cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm is the result of a thorough makeover, with all its parts – from the case and bracelet to the dial and movement – reworked in nearly every respect. The latest version (left) and its predecessor While that seems to imply a radical change, it’s near impossible to tell the new and old versions apart. Despite being all encompassing, the improvements are subtle. From an aesthetic perspective, the Moonwatch remains as it was in the mid 1960s, when the straight lugs of the earlier generations were replaced with the twisted, “lyre” lugs that are now a defining feature of the model. That leads to the obvious question:  if the two generations are nearly identical, is the new version any better? Briefly put, yes. Two upgrades elevate the new Moonwatch in a tangible and substantial manner. One lies in the detail of its design: the face has a bit more flair thanks to greater distinction between the different levels of the dial. And the other lies on the inside: the new cal. 3861 gets most of Omega’s state-of-the-art innovations, resulting in improved timekeeping, as well as a useful level of magnetism resistance. The new cal. 3861 (left) and the cal. 1863 (the dressed-up version of the ...

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DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Recently Aug 3, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Recently on our weekly room The Breakfast Club on Clubhouse (Friday 8pm EST / Saturday 10am AEST), we spoke at length about purchasing principles. The question we explored was what do you do when a watch is not readily available at retail. Do you queue up and wait it out? Do you cough up the hefty … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal Time+Tide
Bremont watches Jul 30, 2021

Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal

The pandemic has really taken a toll on businesses around the world, with many consumers locked down and unable to visit storefronts in person. In terms of watches, this has proved a real shame as it is always fun to pop into your local boutique and go hands-on with some novelties in the metal. Fortunately, … ContinuedThe post Five Bremont watches to check out in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auctions: Only Watch 2021 – November 6, Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 15202 Jul 1, 2021

Auctions: Only Watch 2021 – November 6, Geneva

A biennial charity watch auction that raises money for medical research, Only Watch has just announced the 2021 event takes place in Geneva on November 6, along with most of the 53 unique timepieces that will go under the hammer. Attended by the great and the good of Swiss watchmaking, Only Watch auctions have long enjoyed the support of leading watchmakers who exercise their best efforts to create one-off timepieces that are sold to support research into a cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Only Watch was founded by Luc Pettavino, whose late son Paul was stricken by the illness. Mr Pettavino’s unfailing dedication to both Only Watch and his son’s memory has raised over €70 million to date. Luc Pettavino at Only Watch 2019 Many of the unique timepieces created for the event are landmarks in themselves, explaining why Only Watch has traditionally been a venue for record-setting prices, most notably the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019. Highlights this year include a Tudor Black Bay GMT in an aged-gunmetal finish, possibly the very last Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15202 (a model that will be discontinued at year’s end), and the imaginative F.P. Journe “Francis Ford Coppola”. And what will likely be the most valuable lot in the auction is not a wristwatch, but instead the Patek Philippe desk clock ref. 27001M-001 inspired by a timekeeper made for automobile tycoon James Ward Packard in 1923. We will c...

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