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Time+Tide
Leo's latest role isn't in a Scorsese-directed flick, but rather as an investor in eco-oriented watch brand ID Genève.The post Leonardo DiCaprio-backed ID Genève just launched the self-healing Circular C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega symbol that accompanies the brand’s classical logotype is one of the most recognizable emblems in the watch world, up there with Rolex’s hallmark coronet and Patek Philippe’s venerable Calatrava cross. But what exactly does Omega’s iconic hieroglyph actually symbolize, and what is its meaning in the context of the Swiss manufacture’s watchmaking history? Put simply, the symbol that has long been identified with the Omega brand is a stylized version of the 24th and final letter in the Greek alphabet, called Omega. (If you went to a college that had fraternities and sororities, this probably isn’t news to you.) Much like its counterpart at the beginning of the Greek alphabet, Alpha, the symbolism of the letter Omega has been interpreted various ways throughout history. As “the first” letter, Alpha has become associated with leadership and dominance, i.e., an “Alpha Male” or an “Alpha Dog.” Omega, as the final letter, has been known to connote greatness in its own way, representing the culmination or ultimate expression of a great effort or undertaking. The Biblical connotation of “I am the Alpha and the Omega” - i.e., the beginning and the end, as spoken by Jesus in the Book of Revelation (below) - has also lent weight to the concept of Omega as representing the end of an epoch or, in more ominous but perhaps more horologically relevant terms, the End of Time. So what does all this have to do with a watch brand? Let’s start at the...
Worn & Wound
Certina continues to be a deep-cut watch brand for us folks here in the United States, but for our friends across the Atlantic (and the watch nerds located stateside alike), the value oriented brand remains a fixture amongst the watch community. There’s plenty to enjoy from Certina’s catalog and since their return to the U.S. market in 2021, they’ve hit the ground running with successful releases that include the DS PH200M, the DS Action GMT and in my opinion, the best-kept-secret midsize diver out there with the DS Action Diver 38mm. Sure you’ll occasionally get a curveball from the brand with a dress watch or two, but Certina is at their best when they operate within the lane of their DS Action line. In a span of a couple of months, Certina has bolstered their bread-and-butter collection with the addition of two intriguing divers – a serious, blacked-out DS Action Diver 43mm and a proper midsized titanium offering with the DS Action Diver 38mm. The DS Action Diver is a straightforward, no-fuss diver solidified by traditional design, a “Diver’s Watch” designation meeting ISO 6425 standards and an 80-hour power reserve equipped automatic movement. What separates the new DS Action Diver 43mm from the rest of the line is its stealthy appearance. The stainless steel case is layered with a PVD coating, all around from the lug ends to the crown guard tips and caseback. From the photos provided, it seems that any light hitting the case falls flat, but the bezel...
Time+Tide
Watch brands can be known for boisterous claims or names for their novelties. Masterpiece, icon, ultimate or – in the case of this specific edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo – “ultra”. In the acclaimed anime My Hero Academia, “plus ultra” means going all-out, leaving it all on the battlefield, and pushing their abilities to be the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Does second thinnest mean second best? The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG Aiguille d'Or is always one of the most difficult prizes to predict, not only because all the watches entered are free to be chosen from, but also because so many are so good. The watch needs to be exceptional to win and it might even be a clock. What does our panel choose?
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Hodinkee
It feels good to have a whisper-thin watch on the wrist. Does it feel six times better when it costs $8,600 instead of $1,275? Today, the JLC Master Ultra Thin Date takes on the La Grande Classique de Longines.
Quill & Pad
Now we are onto the big bad boys of the GPHG. Mechanical Exception is where we put the most mechanically incredible watches head to head, and the name of the game is horological creativity. Aesthetics help but a wild, avant-garde watch can easily win this category because there is no limit. So how does our panel choose?
Time+Tide
Of all the people we get to interview in my line of work, the most interesting people to sit down with are the watch designers themselves. To hear the philosophy behind a design from the creator, provides key insight into the past, present and future of a collection. Unfortunately, by the time I joined the … ContinuedThe post The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new watch may offer a bigger number, but what does it mean for the way you wear your watch?
Time+Tide
Jean-Claude Biver is a legend in the watch world. He’s fended off the quartz crisis, revived Blancpain, rejuvenated Omega and headed Hublot, TAG Heuer and, later, the entire watch and jewellery division of LVMH. As a result, Biver is considered to be one of the most brilliant minds in the watch industry of all time. … ContinuedThe post What does Jean-Claude Biver joining the Norqain board of advisers really mean? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Known for customised watches created for celebrity athletes, Artisans de Genève (ADG) has just revealed its latest project, the Armstrong. Based on a Rolex Daytona ref. 116520, the watch was commissioned by former pro cyclist Lance Armstrong. Though it looks thoroughly contemporary, it is modelled on the vintage Daytona ref. 6239 “Pulsations”, one of which just sold at Phillips for US$693,000. The vintage inspiration is literal, yet reinterpreted creatively. The Armstrong has been skeletonised and heavily modified, with both the hour register and automatic winding mechanism removed, resulting in an unusually minimalist watch. Initial thoughts Leaving aside Mr Armstrong’s chequered past – he was a cancer survivor and then multi-time world champion before getting a lifetime ban for doping – his namesake watch is surprisingly interesting. Although it is clearly modern in style, the Armstrong is vintage inspired – it is literally a manual-wind, “pulsations” Daytona. In that sense, it is actually a vintage remake with imagination. A significant amount of effort was clearly expended to get there, and the work appears to be of high quality. Doing away with large chunks of the movements feels drastic, yet the result is intriguing, both conceptually and visually. Or put more simply, it’s weird in a good way. The customisation is priced at about US$45,000, but that excludes the watch, which the client has to supply. It’s fair enough given the substantial work on...
SJX Watches
The award ceremony of 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) just kicked off the biggest week in Geneva’s horological calendar. Widely regarded as the all-encompassing awards of watchmaking, the GPHG is made up of fourteen prizes for individual categories, plus a special prize for the watch of there year. And here are the year’s winners. Aiguille d’Or Grand Recognised for its aesthetic and technical qualities – it is the thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch ever – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar took home the top prize of the event. Audacity The winner certainly lives up to the name of the prize. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem is over the top but finely decorated in an artisanal manner, with an impressive movement that combines an automaton and minute repeater. Innovation Deserving of its prize, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most technically impressive watches of 2021. And that’s because it’s kitted out with a double-wheel escapement powered by twin going trains, each equipped with a remontoir d’egalité constant force mechanism. Men’s Watch Grand Seiko’s Elegance SLGH005 “White Birch” is equipped with an impressive, latest-generation calibre, the cal. 9SA5. It was a worthy winner, though it has to be said that the competition was not especially strong this year. Launched last year for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the cal. 9SA5 is the brand’s highest-end mechanical movement ...
Quill & Pad
In the 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Diver's category we see a mix of tool watches that one might actually choose to use underwater as a dive computer backup and “desk divers” that will see their toughest duty during a light rain shower on the way to the office. In this round table, our panelists pick their choices as the best dive watch of 2021.
Quill & Pad
So what do we have here? A watch with an innovative escapement style, two minute repeaters, an ultra-thin timepiece, and two clocks: the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève has never seen such a wildly different bunch in one category – not even the Mechanical Exception category, which is kind of a fun free-for-all in terms of mechanical creativity. Join our panel's discussion right here.
Time+Tide
We’ve had busy weeks over the years, but this one is up there. In it, we have had one of our team in Vegas at the Couture Watch and Jewellery Show, partly care of the good people at Watchonista. You’ve probably seen Zach carousing around at events and watch booths in our stories. We have … ContinuedThe post THE FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New tagline, who dis… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Just like the Fast and Furious franchise, the Baselworld watch fair is refusing to die. That’s right, Baselworld 2022 is back, but it’s unlikely to be better than ever, or even a shadow of its former self. If you’re just joining the story now, it’s important you know the history behind the slow and agonising … ContinuedThe post Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
This story celebrates 40 years of a workshop and 26 years of a watch model that began, as most stories involving Svend Andersen do, with a unique creation for a client. And it leads to the sensational new Andersen Genève Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary, a small-series timepiece with breathtaking handmade attributes.
Time+Tide
“Batshit crazy”, it turns out, is a phrase that means different things to different people. To me in a watch context, it means technical craziness. Lots of complications. Unnecessary but deeply impressive flexing of watchmaker muscle. To Wei it’s a state of mind. What watch would you be batshit crazy to wear on the mean … ContinuedThe post What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grail watches come in all shapes and sizes, from that vintage Seiko chronograph to a German masterpiece from the town of Glashutte. But when it comes to current hype, one category trumps them all: the integrated bracelet sports watch. For me, the elusive Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is still one of my ultimate dream watches, … ContinuedThe post Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back when I was first dipping my toes into the waters of watch enthusiasm, the IWC Big Pilot was one of the first luxury watches that captured my admiration. I had no means to afford it at the time, and I did not have the level of understanding I do today, but its utility and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How does the new IWC Big Pilot 43 differ from the original Big Pilot 46? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
I’ve had quite a few microbrands in my personal watchbox. In fact, my first new mechanical watch after a waning vintage obsession was a microbrand. Due to the smaller nature of these businesses, one of the main attractions of buying these watches is the possibility of interacting with the brand owner during the retail process … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We all know that pretty much any stainless-steel Rolex sports watch is insanely popular right now. In fact, there’s an unrelenting groundswell of hype around these watches that is undeniable. But do they really deserve it? One of the most prominent watches in the Professional range is the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO, which … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Does the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO “Pepsi” really live up to the hype? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In 2020, everything was different. The way we worked. The way we socialised. And even the way we wore watches. If you only ever got your dress watch out of the safe for a black tie event, it’s likely you didn’t touch it at all last year. I heard stories of people who used to … ContinuedThe post The three watches Nick wore most in 2020: Grand Seiko, Seiko and Universal Geneve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier this week, aptly on a #speedytuesday in Switzerland, Omega has released a new generation of Omega Speedmaster watches. The upgrade has been long-awaited with the previous references largely unchanged for the past 50 years. The Omega Speedmaster 3861 models announced introduce master chronometer co-axial technology to the professional moon watch – with subtle changes … ContinuedThe post What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Of all the winners from the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, this was the one that really made Dr. Rebecca Struthers smile! Among all the glamour of the watch industry, it’s easy to forget the importance of education; here she reminds us why that – and Antoine Simonin – are important to the wellbeing of our ticking microcosm.
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