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Quill & Pad
What a diverse bunch of tourbillons in this Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève category: two of them are beautifully transparent, while one of them is combined with a chronograph. Yet another contains a constant-force device, while one example here can be flipped around. And, finally, the sixth is involved in a space war. Oh, to choose a winner!
SJX Watches
Launched earlier this year, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris” is significant amongst Patek Philippe’s recent releases, despite being a simple, time-only watch. That’s because it’s powered by the all-new cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement that is the new workhorse calibre for the brand’s entry-level, hand-wind watches. Visually, the ref. 6119 takes its cues from past Calatrava models, but the overall design is contemporary and elevated by details like the facetted hour markers and textured dial. But the crucial feature of the ref. 6119 remains the new movement inside. The cal. 30-255, with its large, twin barrels and Gyromax balance The historical context Named after the Patek Philippe emblem, the Calatrava was introduced in 1932, the same year the Stern family took over the watchmaker as it struggled amidst the Great Depression. The original Calatrava was the ref. 96, a handsome but minuscule watch just 31 mm in diameter. While the Calatrava family has multiplied and grown in diversity since its launch, the ref. 96 remains the definitive Calatrava design. Its widely-spaced lugs, baton markers, and dauphine hands are instantly recognisable together, despite being relatively generic in themselves. In fact, the ref. 96 was influential in defining Patek Philippe’s house style for decades; the ref. 130, for instance, was essentially a ref. 96 with a chronograph. A ref. 570 from 1943, essentially an enlarged ref. 96 One of the longest-lived references ...
Time+Tide
Recently, Ricardo penned the story “The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex?”. In it, he tackled the question of whether or not a Rolex watch is a required piece for any self-respecting watch collector. After promoting the story on our Instagram profile, we, expectedly, received some interesting … ContinuedThe post Don’t Miss This: Our team debates the best watches under $1,000 USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale just around the corner, we’re rounding up a half-dozen notable vintage watches from the auction, primarily big-ticket Patek Philippe complications. Amongst them a few oddities, one a Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a perpetual calendar with the moon phase omitted, and the other the Rolex Day-Date with a “Submariner” dial. With the preview exhibition open daily from now till October 12, the auction will take place on October 13. The catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2265: Patek Philippe ref. 130 The oldest watch of the selection is a Patek Philippe ref. 130, the brand’s first serially-produced wristwatch chronograph that remained in the catalogue for over three decades. The model’s longevity makes it an inevitability that a good number of ref. 130 variants exist. Indeed, the model varies greatly in terms case material and dial design, with some combinations being rarer than others. One such rare combination is a steel case with “sector” dial, like the present example. Made by Wenger, the steel cases of the ref. 130 have shorter and wider-spaced lugs compared to the gold cases that made by Vichet, giving the 33 mm case a more imposing appearance Chronograph wristwatches from that era typically feature tiny counters that sit close to the edge of the dial, leaving the dial clean and distinctly vintage. But the “sector” dial here is an entirely different animal – the sect...
Quill & Pad
Complication abounds in the 2021 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category: two perpetual calendars – one of which is of world record-holding thinness – a complete calendar with chronograph, a clever day-date that you can’t help but smile at, a mind-blowingly beautiful moon phase watch, and the world’s smallest planetarium. And our panel members all (well, nearly all) have different favorites to win!
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SJX Watches
Founded by a pair of Italian watch collectors, one of whom is vintage-watch dealer Andrea Marzari, T3 Special Watches is a young and unusual brand. T3 originated in the pair’s other hobby – both are motorcycle enthusiasts. They attempted to create a watch suited for long rides, but that ultimately proved fruitless. Instead, the two pivoted and conceived a vintage-inspired watch with an original design, and powered by a refinished Longines pocket watch movement from the early 2oth century, the Dague. The motivation behind the watch was simple – they wanted a watch that appealed to their taste in both design and mechanics, while being stylish and robust enough for everyday wear. After a year of riding their motorcycles with the prototypes, the duo debuted the first-generation Dague in 2018. Now the model has been refreshed with lacquer dials in eight vibrant colours ranging from turquoise to orange. Think of it as “Stella” dial meets a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, while powered by a vintage pocket watch movement. In lightweight titanium Initial thoughts The Dague is unusual for its mix of modern and vintage features. And it is not just vintage inspired – the movements are bona fide antiques, being based on Longines calibres from the 1920s and 1930s that were originally made for pocket watches. The use of vintage movements sets T3 apart from most micro-brands that rely on modern movements from makers such as ETA. That said, the use of refurbished vintage...
Time+Tide
OK guys, we are back for another round of “Don’t Feed the Hype“. As a refresher for those who may not have seen previous entries in the Don’t Feed the Hype series, my goal is to showcase readily available alternatives that provide a similar essence or merit to watches that have become increasingly unobtainable. It … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Aquanaut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The watches here are as different as day and night, with only two perhaps comparable to each other because they both have jump hour displays (but even these two are as different as it gets with one very classic in looks and the other ultramodern). Additionally, we have two chronographs, a worldtimer, and a mechanical opus with two time displays. It will be hard to choose among all this mechanical charm, but our panel pushes on.
Hodinkee
Chopard is one of the few brands out there that can boast both being independent and having a storied history, but many watch enthusiasts don't realize that Chopard is producing truly in-house movements to an extremely high level in the hills of Fleurier while also making its own cases and smelting its own gold back in Geneva. There are actually three facilities across Switzerland that make up the Chopard manufacture family and here we take you on a tour through all three.
Time+Tide
The next chapter in the Seiko Prospex “Black Series” has arrived. Inspired by the world of night diving, the brand has taken the plunge with three new blacked out watches the SRPH11K (Samurai), the SNE577P (Tuna) and the SRPH13K (Monster). The “Black Series” concept first dropped in 2018 with two Solar models and an automatic Turtle, the SRPC49. The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Hodinkee
"Holy Quadrinity" just doesn't roll off the tongue in quite the same way...
Quill & Pad
Complicated ladies' watches are not as rare as they once were, and the best thing is that they are not converted men's watches anymore but purposely designed and built specifically for female wrists. While there are a lot of absolutely stunning watches in the Ladies Complication category this year, they aren't that complicated and there are quite a few tourbillons. Nonetheless, our panel reaches something of a consensus.
Time+Tide
You Can’t Ask That, Part 1: Why are AP collections always so controversial when they launch? Introducing a conversation series on YouTube… This is the first video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. The title refers to how direct … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: A new conversation series with Audemars Piguet exploring all kinds of topics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Did you know that Batman Day is actually a thing? In honor of Batman Day on September 18, here are five stories Quill & Pad has done over the years invoking either the image or the name of one of DC Comics’ highest-grossing franchise characters: Batman!
Quill & Pad
The Hermès Arceau has been used as the canvas for many remarkable artistic dial techniques, including wood marquetry, glass art, leather, and miniature painting. The Arceau Toucan de Paradis Nancy Olson highlights here uses vibrant silk thread and enamel to tell its colorful and exotic story.
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Quill & Pad
The 2021 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published its list of shortlisted (“nominated”) watches in the runup to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 4, 2021. Ian Skellern shares all of the finalist watches in each category here. Let us know your favorites!
Quill & Pad
I know of only three watchmakers making watches completely (no CNC machines) by hand today: Greubel Forsey with its Hand Made 1 and Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, who are hand-making watches they call l’Instant de Vérité under the umbrella of their own micro brand Oscillon. And what a watch this is!
![Business News: Watchbox Takes Majority Stake in De Bethune [Updated]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/de-bethune-DB28XP-Starry-Sky-8.jpg)
SJX Watches
Watchbox, one of the world’s largest retailers of pre-owned watches, has just announced that it’s taken a majority stake in De Bethune, an independent watchmaker that’s recently enjoying a revival in its fortunes. The deal closed on August 31, according to Patrik Hoffmann, the former chief executive of Ulysse Nardin who’s now the head of Watchbox Switzerland. According to Mr Hoffmann, De Bethune now has just four shareholders, down from a dozen or so previously, with Watchbox holding the largest stake. While Watchbox now has board representation, its investment is largely passive says Mr Hoffmann. Both of De Bethune’s key men will remain in their equity stakes as well as management roles: Pierre Jacques as chief executive and cofounder Denis Flageollet as its technical and watchmaking head. And Mr Hoffmann adds will be no change in terms of De Bethune’s products. “Denis sees the brand DNA so clearly,” continues Mr Hoffmann, “So it would be a big mistake to change that… [since] few brands have the same clearly-defined DNA.” The road from 2002 As the saying goes, history doesn’t repeat itself, but it rhymes. De Bethune was originally cofounded in 2002 by a vintage watch dealer active in the late 20th century, Davide Zanetta, a truly original character who was legendary in his time. Mr Zanetta sold his majority share of the brand in 2017 after many years of losses. One of the investors who bought into the brand in 2017 was Steven Rostovsky, a pre-own...
Time+Tide
With the rise of social media and its symbiotic relationship with watches, much of what we consume regarding horology is found online. But just as a hardcover book will always have a greater appeal than a Kindle, there is something really special about physical watch magazines. Whether gracing the surface of a coffee table, or … ContinuedThe post There’s a new watch magazine in town. The best part? It won’t cost you a cent… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
While this series is called “Don’t Feed the Hype”, I am not saying these watches are all hype – they definitely offer aesthetics, finishes, craftsmanship, and technology to back it up. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is such a phenomenal reference that ultimately ushered in the era of Genta domination. I love the watch and, … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
Singapore, which is our home and host, celebrates her 56th National Day today. We interrupt regular programming today to bring Singaporeans and friends National Day greetings. Majulah Singapura! As usual, we take a break from watches and all things horological today. Singapore 56th National Day
Deployant
This year, Singaporeand celebrate our 56th National Day tomorrow. And here are our suggestions of 6 watches to enjoy the holiday.
Time+Tide
Earlier this week I launched our “Don’t Feed the Hype” series, and so far we’ve received some great feedback about the initiative that proposes alternatives to the most unobtainable watches around. In the wake of last month’s events, we just felt it was time to put our money where our mouth is and attempt to … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Why our latest content series is called ‘Don’t Feed the Hype’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Recently on our weekly room The Breakfast Club on Clubhouse (Friday 8pm EST / Saturday 10am AEST), we spoke at length about purchasing principles. The question we explored was what do you do when a watch is not readily available at retail. Do you queue up and wait it out? Do you cough up the hefty … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
At Time-Tide, we have a history of covering the new releases of Elshan Tang, the owner and designer behind Zelos Watches in Singapore, and he seldom disappoints. I wouldn’t be exaggerating by proclaiming his prolific output to be a milestone that many a budding microbrand owner aims for and it’ll take more than a mere … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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