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First Look - The Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Oct 1, 2026

First Look - The Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Limited Edition Milano 2026

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibitions are important milestones for the brand, offering a unique opportunity to showcase its savoir-faire, heritage and exceptional métiers d’art to both an audience of watch enthusiasts and the wider public. Especially for these exhibitions, Patek Philippe introduces special and limited editions; sometimes even introducing new watch references, movements or […]

Introducing - The Gradient Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Gradient Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Milano 2026

Among the 7 newly unveiled limited editions from Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 (October 2-18, 2026) is a steel Aquanaut 5167A distinguished by a touch of Italian sporty-chic elegance… And as you would expect from a limited-edition Aquanaut, it is sure to attract the attention of collectors and aficionados alike. One of […]

Introducing - The Trilogy of Patek Philippe Calatrava for Milano Grand Exhibition 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Trilogy of Patek Philippe Calatrava for Milano Grand Exhibition 2026

Continuing its tradition of presenting timepieces alongside major exhibitions, Patek Philippe introduces a selection of limited editions for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026. Among these is a trio of Calatrava watches, each echoing one of the colours of the Italian national flag and designed on the basis of the Calatrava 6007: green, white, and […]

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 5978P Steals Milan Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition has just opened in Milan, three years after its last residency in Tokyo. The regular exhibit pops up in a new city every few years, and serves as a local demonstration of the brand’s prowess across complications and métiers d’art. For the Milan edition, the flagship new release is the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5978P-010, which combines the instantaneous perpetual calendar system from the ref. 5207 with the brand’s manually wound cal. CH 29-535 chronograph movement. Visually, this combination of elements resembles the more upscale ref. 5208, but without the minute repeater functionality. Debuting in platinum, the blue-and-red ref. 5978P is limited to 120 pieces, but additional (non-limited) variants seem likely at some point in the future. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe was the first brand to combine the perpetual calendar and chronograph complications in a wristwatch. This breakthrough came surprisingly early in the history of the wristwatch — the fabled ref. 1518 debuted all the way back in 1941. Since then, this format has become almost synonymous with the brand. The ref. 5978P builds upon this legacy without retreading the same territory. For one thing, the watch eschews the familiar triple calendar dial layout of the refs. 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, 5270, and their cushion-shaped and split-seconds variants. Instead, the dial adopts the layout of the ref. 5208, characterised by three calendar windows across...

Introducing - The Two Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater 5531G Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Two Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater 5531G Limited Edition Milano 2026

Among the special editions revealed for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 are two variants of the reference 5531, first introduced in 2017 and since occupying a particular place in the modern collection. The 5531 brought together two complications strongly associated with the manufacture: the World Time display, rooted in the Louis Cottier tradition, […]

Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives Fratello
Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives

As of today, Patek Philippe has opened the doors to its seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition, this time in Milan. Alongside the exhibition itself, the Genevan watchmaker has introduced seven limited-edition watches reserved for the Italian market. They range from a new platinum perpetual calendar chronograph to minute repeaters, a perpetual calendar, a Calatrava, an […] Visit Patek Philippe Unveils Seven Italian Exclusives to read the full article.

Test-Driving The Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition HBJ008 Fratello
Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Oct 1, 2026

Test-Driving The Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition HBJ008

Seiko’s Speedtimer series has become a popular option for those looking for an affordable classic sports chronograph. With its latest incarnation of the solar-powered Speedtimer, Seiko presents a subtle twist on the classic blue and orange racing color scheme watch enthusiasts know so well. I had the chance to learn more about the Seiko Speedtimer […] Visit Test-Driving The Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition HBJ008 to read the full article.

In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons SJX Watches
Breguet stopping Oct 1, 2026

In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons

Conventional wisdom holds that stopping a tourbillon for precise time setting — “hacking” in watchmaking parlance — is a difficult endeavor given the constant rotation of the cage. The hacking tourbillon wristwatch didn’t arrive until 2008, courtesy of the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret. In fact, hacking of any sort remained a rarity until the last few decades — ironic, since the primary function of the seconds hand has arguably evolved from a way to assess accuracy into an indicator that a watch is running. Some brands are still in the process of adding stop-seconds features to their basic calibres, and hacking remains scarcer still in wristwatch tourbillons, appearing with regularity only in the last two decades. But building for the waistcoat pocket, historical watchmakers have been stopping tourbillons for almost as long as they’ve been building them, and developed a number of solutions for this problem along the way, each stopping the tourbillon, or merely the seconds, in a different way. Breguet – stopping the seconds without stopping the watch Almost 225 years ago to the year, the French Ministry of the Interior granted Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747 – 1823) a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon, a clever way to improve a watch’s marks during accuracy testing. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions, the “balance complete” — comprised of the balance, staff, roller, collet and balance spring — mu...

Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire Hodinkee
Casio associates plopped down Oct 1, 2026

Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire

Earlier this summer, I sat down in a fluorescent-lit meeting room in Yamagata, Japan, as a group of Casio associates plopped down a heavy box in front of me. I thought I was just going to Casio's Yamagata factory for a tour of the production line, but I had no idea that I was about to see something absolutely bonkers. Turns out, they were about to show me the watch released to the world today—G-SHOCK's first-ever production watch constructed out of sapphire crystal, in a limited edition of 20 pieces. Let's get to the important detail first—the new MRG-D5000 is priced at $80,000 (JPY 1.1 million). Is this the craziest new G-SHOCK we've seen in a while? Certainly yes. But is it surprising? Well, maybe not quite. The clues were kind of there all along. In the MR-G series, which already represents G-SHOCK at its highest end, the new Blue Rose Project stands out for its material choice and a price tag still an order of magnitude higher than even the most expensive typical MR-G models. If you're not familiar with the series, it's essentially G-SHOCK's flagship lineup: it takes the familiar digital module and durability specs demanded of G-SHOCK and combines them with a much higher level of materials and finishing, along with a much more complex construction. I've owned an MR-G (the MRGB5000R-1, to be specific) for a few years now, and I have to say that I'm a big fan. Yes, it's certainly one of the easier watch concepts to ridicule online, but these models feel extremely imp...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito Hodinkee
Formex CEO Sep 30, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito

Formex holds a unique place in the Swiss watch industry. Born in the early 2000s, it featured a proprietary case suspension system and designs that reflected the origin of its name, 'forme extrême' (extreme shapes in French). However, the recession spurred by the Global Financial Crisis of 2008 dealt the brand a near-fatal blow, and it entered a period of relative dormancy. Then, in 2016, a group backed by one of its suppliers, Dexel, a Swiss component maker specializing in bracelets, clasps, and cases, as well as dials through its subsidiary Cadranor, took over Formex.  Raphael Granito, now in his mid-thirties, is part of the family business behind Dexel and led the takeover and revival of the Formex marque. He has steered the brand's development ever since, and a decade later, Formex is leveraging Dexel's manufacturing savoir-faire and R&D; to produce innovative, approachable-priced Swiss-made watches. The brand's evolution culminated recently with the Aria, a high-end integrated-bracelet titanium sport watch with an ultra-thin, micro-rotor manufacture movement designed by Horage, priced below CHF 6,000. That's a significant step up compared to the CHF 1,800 average price point for its watches.  Granito outlines how the brand has grown and connected with more customers, operating mainly outside the traditional retail structure. Still a family business, he hired his best friend from university to lead marketing and sales efforts. Formex has distinguished itself by offe...

Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection Fratello
IWC Mark-series design silhouette made Sep 30, 2026

Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection

When Earthen Co. debuted with the Summit, I was immediately intrigued. The combination of ceramic cases with the famous IWC Mark-series design silhouette made the watches instantly recognizable and stylish. But the Hong Kong-based brand did not compromise on specs and made them proper tool watches. Considering the friendly price of well under €1,000, it […] Visit Earthen Co. Breaks New Ground With More Colors For Its Summit MK II Collection to read the full article.

Introducing - Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Injects Sep 30, 2026

Introducing - Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve

Bearing the name of one of the founding fathers of 19th-century German watchmaking, Moritz Grossmann is today an independent high-end Glashütte watch manufacture producing low-volume, hand-finished pieces. Marking the bicentennial of the founder’s birth, Moritz Grossmann presents two more contemporary, dark-themed versions of the elegant Benu Power Reserve. The Benu was the first watch to […]

The Future Is Here: Why The North Flag/Northflag Is So Important For Tudor Once Again Fratello
Tudor Once Again Almost nobody Sep 30, 2026

The Future Is Here: Why The North Flag/Northflag Is So Important For Tudor Once Again

Almost nobody liked the Tudor North Flag. Still, in 2015, the watch marked an important moment in Tudor’s history. Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf started the brand in 1926, stating the following: “I decided to form a separate company with the object of making and marketing a watch that our agents could sell at a more […] Visit The Future Is Here: Why The North Flag/Northflag Is So Important For Tudor Once Again to read the full article.

Takeaways from the Record-Breaking Rolex Daytona Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref 6300A Sep 29, 2026

Takeaways from the Record-Breaking Rolex Daytona Auction

In just a couple of weeks, Rolex and Phillips pulled off the near-impossible: a record-setting auction where the unique Daytona “Four Seasons” set sold for £37.3 million, equivalent to US$49.5 million. The sum is the largest tally ever for a charity watch auction of any sort, and also surpasses the US$31 million achieved by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in 2019 – which was admittedly a single watch. All of the proceeds from the sale of the “Four Seasons” go to charities founded by Roger Federer and Leonardo DiCaprio, global celebrities and Rolex “Testimonees” who lent star power to the evening, which took place on September 28, the day after the Laver Cup that Mr Federer attended. The venue was the Raffles London, perhaps the latest and greatest hotel in the British capital, a city with no shortage of grand hotels. Reputedly the most expensive hotel project in the city’s history, having cost some £1.5 billion, the colonial building was once home to the British Ministry of Defence. The four Daytonas were on display in a room that appeared to be a basement bunker. The lavishly rebuilt interiors of the “Old War Office” were a fitting venue for the record-breaking evening, which was populated by a mix of celebrities, including Mick Jagger and Jon Bon Jovi, as well as many anonymous but well-heeled watch collectors who are clients of Phillips. Some of the world’s most significant watch collectors were in the room. Despite the short time...

Owner’s Review: the Norqain Adventure Sport Worn & Wound
Norqain Adventure Sport One Sep 29, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Norqain Adventure Sport

One of the recurring topics of conversation I’ve long heard among watch collectors is the fantasy of a pared down collection. Sometimes, the dream is by the numbers – a seven-watch collection (one for each day of the week), the sweet spot three-watch collection (dress, sport, and wild card), or the ultra-ambitious one-watch collection (but how could you ever choose just one?!). Other times, the musings on a pared down collection get more specific – a single brand, a single style, a single material. For me, the collecting fantasy revolves around color – or rather, the absence of color – an all-white collection. At the current moment, I only have three, but there is one in particular that has solidified my love of white watches not just for summer but all year round (yes, white watches look just as good on snow bunnies). This is the story of my Norqain Adventure Sport. For those of you who know me outside the page, I’m the antithesis of the all-black New Yorker. Perhaps it’s my southern roots showing (shoutout ATL), but in recent years, I’ve become a self-proclaimed rainbow girl. This wasn’t always the case. In high school, I hailed from the emo era, and to the horror of my fairly traditional Midwest parents and southern upbringing, I dyed my hair dark, cut asymmetrical bangs, painted my nails black, and wore clothes that matched my angst and musical taste (btw we will circle back to this seemingly superfluous detail later on in the story, stay tuned). When...

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Hodinkee
Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007 Sep 29, 2026

Hands-On: Seiko Alpinist GMT HBC007

For the life of me, I can't remember if I've ever owned an Alpinist. I think I did, for a little while. I know I at least borrowed one for a while, but the Alpinist was never as central to me as it has been for a lot of watch guys of my vintage (by that, I mean collectors who got into this whole thing in the late 2000s). If I did own an Alpinist, it was a brief, flirtatious affair meant to satisfy curiosity before I found my way back to the SKX (a watch I have owned many, many examples of). Still, the Alpinist — specifically the SARB017 Alpinist with its green dial, compass bezel, and gold numerals — seemed as close to omnipresent as a watch could get in my early days of collecting and learning. They made daily appearances on wristcheck channels on forums, and their sudden appearance on one of my friends' wrists was a great sign that they were becoming properly watch-enthused. It's hard to quantify the Alpinist's impact, but here's the thing: while the Alpinist may not be the Seiko thatmost watch enthusiasts collect today, if you control for "dive watch," I'd hazard a guess it's at least close. And in an era when it felt like a Seiko was the price of entry to "watch enthusiast," it was a watch that mattered. And then, it vanished. Okay, that's maybe a little dramatic. The Alpinist had a long run, and like so many of the watches Seiko introduced in the '90s and '00s, it was eventually sunsetted and, a few short years later, replaced with something that looks awfully sim...

First Look - A new Burgundy Dial for the Oris Big Crown x Cervo Volante Monochrome
Oris Big Crown x Cervo Sep 29, 2026

First Look - A new Burgundy Dial for the Oris Big Crown x Cervo Volante

One of Oris‘ most emblematic watches, the Big Crown Pointer Date pilot watch has enjoyed a surprisingly long lifespan and is rightfully considered the brand’s icon. Introduced in 1938, the Big Crown was conceived as a tool watch for military and civilian pilots. As part of the brand’s ongoing “Change for the Better” sustainability campaign, […]

Channeling Autumn: The Newest Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date Fratello
Oris × Cervo Volante Big Sep 29, 2026

Channeling Autumn: The Newest Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date

Oris and Cervo Volante, a Swiss producer of high-quality leather goods, have released several collaborations in the past few years. For their latest one, the two brands created a 40mm Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with a beautiful burgundy gradient dial and a dark brown Cervo Volante strap made from sustainable deer leather. The watch […] Visit Channeling Autumn: The Newest Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date to read the full article.

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Set Shatters Auction Record SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Set Shatters Auction Record

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s steel Grandmaster Chime Sep 29, 2026

Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” Achieves Record Price

When we first reported on Rolex’s Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction, we wondered whether the quartet could reach CHF31 million, the sum achieved by Patek Philippe’s steel Grandmaster Chime at Only Watch in 2019. We got our answer today in London, where the four Daytonas together raised £37.3 million, equivalent to CHF41.2 million, or approximately US$49.5 million. That comparison comes with an obvious qualification: Rolex’s total covers four watches, while the Grandmaster Chime result was for one. Nevertheless, it is an extraordinary sum for a quartet of chronographs sharing the same movement, distinguished by their unique combinations of precious metals and stones. The auction was hosted Phillips and conducted by Aurel Bacs. Summer led at £10.3 million, followed by Autumn at £10.2 million, Winter at £10 million, and Spring at £6.8 million. Most of the action occurred over the phone. Phillips describes the combined result as a record for a single consignment to a charity auction. All proceeds will benefit the Federer Foundation, which supports early education in Southern Africa and Switzerland, and Re:wild, the conservation organisation co-founded by Leonardo DiCaprio. Left to right: Summer, Autumn, Winter, and Spring Key facts and price Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona “Four Seasons” Ref. 126596 SABV — Winter (platinum) Ref. 126599 SAVL — Spring (white gold) Ref. 126595 SARO — Summer (Everose gold) Ref. 126598 TML — Autumn (yellow ...