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New: Jacob & Co redesigns their Epic X
For Geneva Watch Week 2022, Jacob & Co released a new Epic X, redesigned for a more stronger and even more sporty look than the original.
Results for Geneva Watch Days
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SJX Watches
In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air
Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Oris debuts highly versatile Wings of Hope limited editions in steel and gold
Last year at Dubai Watch Week, one of the debuts that stuck with me was the blue-dialled Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 5 Days powered by the in-house calibre 403. With its pleasantly dimensioned case, five-day power reserve movement with a 10-year warranty and straight-forward, smart-casual aesthetic, I felt it was a sure winner for … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Oris debuts highly versatile Wings of Hope limited editions in steel and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
To exhibit, or not exhibit, quartz movements? Your answers to the question
Snobbery is an unfortunate element, at times, within the watch community. Fortunately, there are many moments where #watchfam comes together - charity auctions for Ukraine and breast cancer are just a few examples. But on social media, where much of the dialogue surrounding watches happens these days, sometimes you need to bring a riot shield to … ContinuedThe post To exhibit, or not exhibit, quartz movements? Your answers to the question appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique
François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand. But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity. The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring. Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the rec...
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: Earth Day Thoughts On Why Watches Matter
Why we need these so-called toys now more than ever.
Quill & Pad
Why I Pimped My Rolex - Reprise
The watch nerd that WMMT is, he rarely immediately wears his new watches, putting them aside for a few days and letting the anticipation grow. When it finally came time to wear his new Rolex, he took it out of the box and proudly put it on his wrist. And then horror struck: he didn’t feel anything, not a thing! Zilch, nada, niente! What to do?
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Crazy week: the calm before the storm of Watches & Wonders 2022
A calm today, before the storm of Watches & Wonders 2022 and associated watch fairs being held in Geneva. Here a quick rundown on what is coming this week.
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The new Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep - a technical discourse
Omega released a series of watches yesterday in their Omega Watch Days show. We attended the conference online, and here is our top pick from the watches released – the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A very special watch, challenging the depths of the oceans where no watch has gone to before. Press Release informationRead More
Time+Tide
Taste the new Omega Aqua Terra rainbow and consider these (very strong) selling points
At Time+Tide, we are every bit as much watch enthusiasts as we are journalists. We have our ears to the ground, checking our Instagram feeds, Facebook groups and other digital points of #watchfam discussion. So when Omega Days 2022 concluded and the new novelties unveiled, we saw the community response to the latest and greatest … ContinuedThe post Taste the new Omega Aqua Terra rainbow and consider these (very strong) selling points appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel
How on earth can anyone be expected to choose their next watch these days? It almost seems like there are hundreds of new Kickstarter microbrands popping up each month, each with their own unique quirks that make them seem irresistible to people wanting to fill niches in a collection. Héron Watches are a refreshing change-up, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Offset showers Cardi B with six Chanel bags and “$375K” Audemars Piguet for Valentine’s Day
When you think Valentine’s Day gifts, normally you’d think of flowers, chocolates or jewellery. But American rapper Offset, member of the Migos, does not hold back when it comes to gift-giving – luxury is his love language. For example, back in July we reported one of our youngest and most extravagant watchspots ever on the … ContinuedThe post Offset showers Cardi B with six Chanel bags and “$375K” Audemars Piguet for Valentine’s Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines
A lot has happened over the last seven days, but earlier today TAG Heuer ushered in their next generation of Connected Watch: the Calibre E4. Some collectors scoff at the idea of a smartwatch, claiming that such a digital device does not have the artistic essence of a traditional mechanical timepiece. But let’s face it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out
We’re a few weeks into the new year, and while a lot has already happened the watch industry is not showing any signs of slowing down. Game-changing novelties and decisions are already happening, and with LVMH Watch Week starting next week and Watches & Wonders Geneva inching closer and closer you already know the pipeline … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
November 2021 Ineichen Auction Sets A New World Record Price For The Sale Of A Vianney Halter Antiqua
Ineichen Zurich held two days' worth of watch auctions in Zurich and online November 20-21, 2021 with 198 ticking specialties that included a bevy of independent timepieces and two new world records for the Vianney Halter Antiqua. Get the results here!
SJX Watches
Business News: Investors Led by Kari Voutilainen Acquire Urban Jurgensen
Confirming chatter that was circulating in Geneva during watch auction season two weeks ago, Urban Jürgensen & Sønner (UJS) has been taken over by a group of investors with Kari Voutilainen at the helm. Having worked at UJS decades ago as a young watchmaker, Mr Voutilainen is returning as the chief executive. He will also retain his role at his namesake brand, which recently moved into new premises high up above the town of Fleurier on the mountain known as Chapeau de Napoléon. Kari Voutilainen Working alongside Mr Voutilainen at UJS will be his daughter, Venla, who recently completed her watchmaking studies and then an internship at a large watch retailer. Better known for the unique pocket watch she helped create for Only Watch 2019, Ms Voutilainen will be in charge of after-sales service at UJS, while also working at the Voutilainen brand itself. Originally an 18th century Danish brand, UJS was revived in the 1970s by the late Peter Baumberger. Control then passed on to watch expert and auctioneer Dr Helmut Crott after Baumberger’s death. During that period, Mr Voutilainen became involved with the brand once again, when he helped to refine its in-house calibre. UJS was then taken over by its most recent owners, Danish investors led by former Nokia executive Søren Jenry Petersen. Although the brand earned some press with new products during that period, most notably with its first sports watch, UJS never gained the necessary momentum to break into the ranks of top...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Phillips sold US$74.5 million of watches during its recent Geneva auctions, the besting the two-decade old record set by Antiquorum in 2002 for the biggest watch auction ever. Now it the focus shifts to Hong Kong for the fall watch sale in the city. Amongst the top lots in Geneva were important creations by independent watchmakers, including the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch that sold for US$5.2 million, as well as an F.P. Journe Resonance Souscription that achieved US$4.3 million (fees included). Fortunately there are fine examples of the genre for far less money at the upcoming Hong Kong auction. We round up some of the most notable – and possibly overlooked – in the sale, including the little-known F.P. Journe Octa “France-China”, the rarely-seen Haldimann H11, and a pair of quirky watches by Vianney Halter (but designed by Pascal Pages). The movement of the H11 The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 841: Harry Winston Opus 3 by Vianney Halter Perhaps the most complicated watch ever conceived by Vianney Halter is the Opus 3, which was originally a collaborative effort between the watchmaker and American jeweller Harry Winston. Entirely digital in its time display, the Opus 3 has no hands, but instead six apertures on its face. The date occupies the two windows in the centre, with the left co...
SJX Watches
Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m
One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.
Revolution
4 Dufours: Contemporary Watchmaking’s Most Important Creations
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has revealed that its upcoming sale this fall, The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, will feature not one but four extraordinary Philippe Dufour creations. Wei gives us the proper run down while the auction house came through Singapore for their Geneva Watch Auction: XIV showcase.
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A Path Less Taken: Six Underrated Watches Under (or Slightly Above) S$10,000 to Consider
The watch collecting universe is an interesting one these days. It appears as though there are more and more collectors around, and the supplies are not enough to feed the insatiable appetite from the crowd. In fact, we are aware that the waitlist for some watches can stretch over years. While those watches are definitelyRead More
Time+Tide
When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66
It used to be that Rolex was the watch to be worn on adventures – climbing mountains, diving the ocean depths, exploring, and forging new discoveries in science involving huge magnetic fields. Well, Rolex is still in the adventure business, but these days the adventure is more likely to be actually trying to purchase the watch … ContinuedThe post When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watching this miracle restoration of a burnt-out Omega is the most satisfying thing you’ll do all day
From rags to riches or hero to zero, the redemption narrative is one of the most powerful storytelling arcs there is. And it turns out to be just as effective when applied to inanimate objects, too. How else to explain the dizzying success of tool-restoration videos on YouTube in which the rusted up carcass of an … ContinuedThe post Watching this miracle restoration of a burnt-out Omega is the most satisfying thing you’ll do all day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Just Because: Look Who's Laughing Now: The Rise Of Joker Watches
Clowns are running rampant on watch dials these days. I have questions.
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Happy National Day! Maju-lah Singapura!
Singapore, which is our home and host, celebrates her 56th National Day today. We interrupt regular programming today to bring Singaporeans and friends National Day greetings. Majulah Singapura! As usual, we take a break from watches and all things horological today. Singapore 56th National Day
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye: When Less Is More
Cracking the seal on the box of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye revealed a deep and constantly shifting play of light as the stone dial caught the afternoon light coming in through the window. Over the days that GaryG had the watch for shooting, it became his quest to capture the variety of moods conjured up by this dial. And we think he has done just that.
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Review: The New Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 “Jumping-Hour”
The L.U.C collection, as we know it today, is the fruit of Manufacture Chopard’s longstanding endeavors in fine watchmaking. Its existence began in 1996 with the introduction of the L.U.C 1860, a time-and-date-only watch that many deemed to be a magnum opus of classical watch design. The seminal timepiece was driven by the Geneva SealRead More
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The 10 Best Skeleton Watches You Can Buy Right Now (That Don’t Suck!)
I know I’m not the only one who looked at a skeleton watch in the early days because I thought they were cool. But honestly what actually attracted me to skeletonized dials back in the day? Are they actually cool or are they maybe misunderstood?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
H. Moser & Cie. Jumps the Shark with “the Fonz” Minute Repeater
Unveiled yesterday, controversial watch brand H. Moser & Cie. has taken cheeky clichés to the next level with their latest release, a tribute to ABC’s beloved sitcom Happy Days.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton
Continuing Louis Vuitton’s slow-but-steady progress upwards as a technical watchmaker, the Tambour Carpe Diem is its flagship watch for 2021. The Carpe Diem boasts a quadruple jacquemart – it incorporates four automata – along with a jumping hour and retrograde minutes display. Developed and produced entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps, the Geneva complications specialist owned by Louis Vuitton, the LV 525 movement in the Carpe Diem is accompanied by artisanal decoration on the dial. All of the engraving is done by Dick Steenman of Art&D; in Geneva, while the enamelling is the work of Anita Porchet, who needs no introduction. Initial thoughts One of the most impressive watches of the year, the Carpe Diem is highly complicated – and boasts extremely fine enamelling – but the gothic style will be a bit too much for many. I saw the watch in person a few weeks ago, and I was amazed by the delicate quality of the artisanal decoration. The memento mori motif is not for me, but the work is unmistakably excellent. The snake is enamelled by Anita Porchet and particularly fine. It’s extremely slender and its skin is incredibly nuanced, covered in scales and the Louis Vuitton monogram. The tail of the snake is coiled around a single brilliant-cut diamond, while the eyes of the snake are a pair of rubies The only tangible downside of the watch is its size. It is almost 47 mm in diameter and 15 mm high, and feels every bigger due to the narrow bezel and tall, sloping...