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Time+Tide
Time+Tide is looking for a London-based Social Channels & Platforms Manager to join the team, helping shape how the world experiences watches
Worn & Wound
Collaboration has been at the core of watchmaking since the early days with the etablissage system on which the artform was founded joining together craftspeople of all disciplines to bring a watch to life. In our modern era, collaborations have become more formalized between watchmakers as well as with other brands, artists, athletes, and even the most unexpected partners. Yes, collaborations have taken some wild twists and turns, and the work between Micromilspec’s founders Henrik Rye, Alexander Kadin, and Kim Ellefsen alongside industrial designer and materials specialist James Thompson AKA Black Badger definitely falls in that category. The group first teamed up one year ago for the inaugural installment in the Project Sabotage/Time Wars series, but what makes this collaboration so unique is that it extends beyond the watch itself and to an accompanying alternate anime universe. Here, Micromilspec and Black Badger have taken the concept of storytelling in watchmaking to a whole new level, placing their co-created timepiece in its own world where Black Badger himself takes his animal form. As you might guess, the creative process throughout such a collaboration is anything but ordinary. I sat down with Black Badger himself just ahead of the announcement for the second edition in the series the Broken Hour, whose one-time, 24-hour sales window is officially open and closes at 12pm ET on May 30. “Henrick and I were just together finalizing the storytelling elements,...
SJX Watches
Kollokium returns with the Projekt 02 Variant C, hot on the heels of the A and B variants. For this third edition, Kollokium is bringing some colour to the (beach) party, rendering its topographic dial in a striking shade of Mediterranean blue. Initial thoughts Kollokium — an independent micro-brand from Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi — continues to find ways to rethink dial and case construction at an affordable price. As its name suggests, the Variant C is the third edition of its second model — Projekt 02 — which introduced the topographical motif last year. True to form, Kollokium is once again letting the dial do all the talking and has left the Variant C unsigned, save for the model abbreviation cast into the case band. Like another independent brand with Manuel Emch at the helm, Kollokium keeps a tight leash on pricing. As a result, the Variant C is priced the same as prior editions, at CHF3,666.66. It’s a limited edition of 299 pieces, which means it will be less common than similarly priced watches like the Tudor Black Bay 54 in ‘Lagoon Blue.’ Of course, cross-shopping a Kollokium against something like the technically advanced Tudor feels a little like missing the forest for the trees. The appeal of the Projekt 02 Variant C lies in its three-dimensional design and unusual textures — on these grounds, there are few alternatives. The Variant C can be pre-ordered starting today for Kollokium subscribers, and will be available to the ...
SJX Watches
Specialising in affordable, “imaginary vintage” chronographs, Albishorn has added a twist to its military-inspired Type 10. At a distance, the Type X-Graph resembles yet another pilot’s chronograph with a black, textured dial, but up close it reveals a translucent polycarbonate dial that provides a peek at the skeletonised base plate of the movement. Inspired by 1930s acrylic-covered timepieces, the polycarbonate dial is in a gradient-grey tint, giving it a darker finish towards the edges. While the movement is mechanically identical to its predecessor, the calibre has been skeletonised to maximise the “X-ray” effect. Initial thoughts At first glance, the X-Graph appears little different from its predecessors, but up close it is noticeably more interesting. It’s essentially a twist on a skeleton watch – it’s clearly a no-frills, military-style watch, but with a see-through dial that reveals the open-worked movement. The X-Ray is still “imaginary vintage”, but with more imagination, underlining Albishorn founder Sebastien Chaulmontet’s unique take on watches that combines a historical perspective and unusual twists. This is born from his keen interest in vintage chronographs – he wrote a book on the subject – while also being head of research and development at Sellita (Albishorn is a side project, akin to a hobby). The brand’s catalogue now encompasses many variations of the single-button chronograph, but the X-Graph stands out as one of the m...
Worn & Wound
Last year, we launched our first Ride to Conquer Cancer collection alongside a two-day, 200km ride for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre. The response was incredible. So, we’re doing it again. The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer is on, with Matt Smith-Johnson once again leading our “Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop” team into the saddle for two days and 200 kilometers. To back the team this year, we’ve expanded the project to three pieces — all designed to support the cause and look good doing it. The 2026 BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph For year two, we wanted to push the design further while keeping what worked the first time around. Mechanically and dimensionally, the watch is unchanged from the 2025 release — same 41mm titanium Venture case, 12.5mm thick, 46mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lugs, same 200m of water resistance, screw-down crown, and flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Inside, the Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — quartz accuracy with the snappy mechanical feel of a real chrono pusher. What’s new is the finish. The middle of the case is now done in a saturated pink Cerakote, leaving the rest of the watch’s technical foundation untouched. The watch was once again designed by longtime W&W; collaborator and team rider Matt Smith-Johnson, who explained his thinking: “The Princess Margaret has been using the slogan ‘Carry The Fire’ for the last couple of years. To me, that’s the passion for creating change in the world. As with our t...
Fratello
I reviewed some Delugs straps back in 2024, and since then, I’ve added a decent selection of the brand’s rubber CTS straps and sailcloth straps to my rotation. In fact, I recently bought a couple of sailcloth straps for some of the newer watches in my collection. So when Delugs kindly offered to send over […] Visit The Delugs Micro-Adjust CTS Deployant Clasp Is A Small Upgrade That Makes A Big Difference to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Longines has taken great strides into revising their Hydroconquest line, but is it the collection’s best version yet? Let’s find out! What We Love: Clean, modern design Excellent value proposition Comfortably wearing mesh bracelet What We Don’t: No tool-less interchangeability The illusion of the mesh bracelet is lost up close Is it the same Hydroconquest? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Though I’ve said it ad nauseam, it’s become common knowledge that Longines is one of the most consistent brands in the watch world. Whether it be their logo remaining unchanged since 1867 or their ability to produce high-quality watches at an impressive price point, the Swatch Group brand has remained an industry staple. Longines has long defined itself through a dependable, heritage-inspired aesthetic. However, the 2020s have seen the brand begin to test the waters of modern design. While old-school styles like the Master, Flagship, and Spirit still remain, both the Conquest and HydroConquest lines have been redefined with a more contemporary, 21st-century look. For this review, we’ll be focusing on the latter. Matt had the opportunity to share his thoughts on the 42mm version of the HydroConquest, but now I get to tackle the 39mm version with the ice-blue dial. First Impressions It didn’t surprise me that the Longines HydroConquest received a revamp. Admittedly, after the HydroConquest GMTs were released, i...
Time+Tide
There are moments in the life of a new space when you stop and think: this is exactly what we built it for.
Fratello
In this new series, we will focus on (neo-)vintage watches that can now be found at interesting prices on the secondary market. We will select watches we have come across in our searches for nice pieces or simply those we think could fulfill a certain desire or role in one’s collection. For this first installment, […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Omega Constellation ‘95 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Watches and Wonders. Watches and Wonders. It’s all we’ve been talking about, I know. So, all I will say for this Friday Wind Down on the subject is that you can find all of our written coverage here and video coverage here. Now let’s move on to some horological headlines from this past week that … Continued
Time+Tide
Why does it only look like a three-hander on the surface? Because this is the new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux.The post This chronograph is hiding a secret: New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Every year, Patek Philippe unveils an abundance of releases during Watches and Wonders. This year, it was no different, with the number of new watches far exceeding 20. I always go over all the new introductions in detail after the show because only then do I have the time to reflect on them. As a […] Visit Patek Philippe’s Hidden Gem Is The New Calatrava 5227G-015 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen puts on a lightshow in the best, most complicated way possibleThe post A. Lange & Söhne’s new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is definitely a glower and a shower appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
As is always the case with Tudor, it seems that the internet is divided on their major new Watches & Wonders releases in the days after their unveiling. But while comments are volleyed back and forth on whether the of the Black Bay 54 Blue is actually too purple, or the Monarch should have been smaller, one new release that actually might be kind of perfect is going under the radar. Ok, “perfect” could be overstating it, but the newly relaunched Tudor Royal really impressed me. If there’s a “most improved” award to be handed out to a collection, the Royal might grab it. There are three sizes, 30mm, 36mm, and 40mm, all with manufacture calibers for the first time in the collection. The 40mm Royal has a day-date indication that is similar (identical, really) to the execution of the day-date on the Rolex Day-Date. All of the movements (MT5201, MT5412 and MT5633) are chronometer certified. Aesthetically, these are integrated bracelet sports watches that veer more toward the elegant end of the sports watch spectrum. Long a staple for Tudor in the Asian market, they’re looking to expand the Royal’s reach this year with some very noticeable finishing improvements. The bezel in particular is very nicely executed, with sharp notches and a very high polish that works particularly well on the two tone models, where it is rendered in gold. I think another factor working in Tudor’s favor with respect to the Royal is the current broad acceptance of smaller watche...
Worn & Wound
Oris first introduced its Artelier Complication in 1991 alongside the Caliber 581, which notably featured a moonphase module developed in-house by the brand. The release marked another significant moment for the maison in its commitment to manufacture movements following the quartz crisis. The model’s presence ultimately faded but received new life in 2017 with an updated design that featured a more modern, cleaner style with slimmer, tapered lugs, and a redesigned bezel. At Watches & Wonders, we get the next evolution of the Artelier Complication. The newest incarnation gives us another redesign from the 2017 edition while keeping the focus on highlighting the romantic moonphase. This updated take on the Artelier Complication comes from 24-year-old Lena Huwiler, Oris’s new Product Design Engineer. Huwiler has been able to achieve the perfect balance between honoring the model’s place in the history of the brand and propelling it forward with a design that will resonate with her generation. An old soul at heart, Huwiler admits she does not just find inspiration online but still appreciates architecture, crafts, and interior design. She clearly brings the duality of these sensibilities into her design for the new Artelier Complication. Here, Huwiler has given an Oris classic a modern, urban profile and reworked the moonphase display designed by and for the next generation of watch collectors. The major update here is in the complication and how it is presented thank...
SJX Watches
Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line - where it arguably makes the most sense. It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch. Initial thoughts The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches. That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication. The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating wei...
SJX Watches
Cartier’s crowd favourite Privé line is now 10 years old and the jeweller is returning to its greatest hits for the occasion with two offerings, the first being the flagship Cartier Privé Les Opus. “Opus” is a trio of watches, all in platinum, each being of the most desirable models in the Privé collection – Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette. Both the Tank Normale and Tortue Monopoussoir are variants of earlier models, retaining the same case and movement as before, but now with silvered dials featuring red markings. The Crash skeleton, on the other hand, is a new model powered by a new calibre, the 1967 MC, a hand-wind movement with hand hammered bridges. The Crash skeleton is limited to 150 pieces, while the other two models are regular production The second anniversary trio is Cartier Privé La Collection, yet another trio of greatest hits, but in yellow gold and not limited edition, which we’ll detail in another story. Cartier Privé La Collection made up of the Tank Cintree, Tank Normale, and Cloche Initial thoughts It is now a given that Cartier will mine its rich archive for new launches and Les Opus is exactly that. Given the strength of Cartier’s iconic designs, all three watches in the collection are appealing, with the Crash being a little more novel than its siblings in the line-up thanks to its skeleton movement. None of the three watches win any awards for imagination or innovation, but that is arguably besides...
Fratello
The only sense of nature you can experience when spending days on end in Geneva’s Palexpo event center is by handling Grand Seiko novelties. Yes, we sometimes joke about the plethora of nature-inspired dial designs that the Japanese brand releases. Still, they’re most welcome during Watches and Wonders. After a couple of steamy sessions in […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko’s 38mm 62GS SBGH376 “Sakura-Wakaba” And 37mm Evolution 9 SLGB006 “Ice Forest At Dawn” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin builds on its iconic Overseas limited edition Dual Time to unveil a four-model collection aptly named the Cardinal PointsThe post Is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points the best Overseas ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith's showstopping G.F.J. returns, this time with gold and tantalum cases and onyx and bloodstone dialsThe post Zenith’s showstopping stone dialled G.F.J . is back, and this time the cases are even more special appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Trilobe has just made its most consequential move yet: the opening of a full manufacture in the heart of the Opéra district of Paris.The post Trilobe’s new Paris manufacture is a new chapter for French independent watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. revisits a cinema classic with the Godfather II. A sequel to the acclaimed and extravagant Opera Godfather, the new model grounds the movement architecture while doubling down on the musical complication. Initial thoughts It is no secret that The Godfather trilogy is a personal favourite of jeweller and brand founder Jacob Arabo. He confessed his love for Francis Ford Coppola’s magnum opus when the Opera Godfather was first launched. A ticking music box, the timepiece played the famous Godfather Love Theme using a pin-barrel and comb system - a simple but reliable mechanism that sits at the heart of many music boxes. With this second model inspired by Mr Coppola’s saga, Jacob & Co. doubled down on the music box feature, adding a second tune that can be played in addition to the iconic theme. The second melody is the Godfather Waltz and the wearer can chose between either melody at the push of a button. While Jacob & Co. made a name for itself with opulent demonstrations of extravagant gemsetting, the Godfather II is unusually restrained, dialing back the flamboyance of the Opera Godfather without losing its musical virtuosity. The Art Deco-inspired case is a considered departure for Jacob & Co., a brand not typically associated with restraint. It suits the watch well, and suggests the manufacture is capable of more range than its catalogue suggests. The Godfather II is beloved by critics for portraying a grittier, more brutal reality of organised cr...
Time+Tide
As part of the brand's relaunch, we have the resurrection of one of its most iconic models, flanked by a few fun iterations. The post Nina is back in spirit with the revived Universal Genève Compax collection, complete with a micro-rotor movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Finally, after two years of teasing, Universal Genève is back. Yes, the brand is back in a tangible way with four collections and a soon-to-open flagship store in the heart of Geneva, its city of origin. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Universal Genève stood among the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The […] Visit Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way to read the full article.
Monochrome
Patek Philippe is set to captivate horology enthusiasts with its annual Rare Handcrafts exhibition, opening on April 18, 2026, at the brand’s historical Salons on Rue du Rhône in Geneva. Running through May 9, this event showcases 65 exceptional new creations – 23 dome table clocks, 10 pocket watches, and 32 wristwatches – blending centuries-old […]
SJX Watches
The Tambour Taiko Arty Automata is the latest creation from Louis Vuitton to feature jacquemart, or mechanical animations. Like the Tambour Opera before it, the Arty Automata features a complex, multi-layer dial with multiple mechanisms that whir into motion at the press of a button, including spinning hearts and a swivelling eyeball. But this also incorporates a flying tourbillon at six, while the dial itself is grand feu enamel – and tiny bird feathers for the eyelashes. Initial thoughts The flamboyant, psychedelic Arty Automata is definitely not for everyone, but the mechanical and artisanal credentials of the watch are impressive (save for one detail, more on that later). To start with, the Arty Automata is a more manageable 42 mm by 13.6 mm, compared to earlier automata models that were several millimetres larger. Combined with the form of the new Tambour Taiko case, this makes the Art Automata more wearable than its predecessors. More than ergonomics, the scaled down case also underlines the movement development prowess of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The attention to detail in terms of the movement also shows in its aesthetics: the calibre adopts the house style of LFT with its relief bridges, but adopted to the “Arty” aesthetic with stars, clouds, and a lacquered rotor. That said, the Etachron-type regulator index for the balance is definitely out of place in a watch of this price. The watch also illustrates the capabilities of the metiers d’art workshop in ...
Time+Tide
Swiss independent Arsène Lippens keeps things toned down for its new Classico Collection, but it lets the fine details do the talkingThe post Is restrained refinement the new attention grabber? Arsène Lippens new Classico Collection aims to find out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Exhibiting at Watches & Wonders in Geneva for the first time, Seiko’s high-end marque Credor is rolling out the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved (ref. GBCF997). While the latest Credor is only a cosmetic variation of an existing model, but the latest Goldfeather Tourbillon is nonetheless a top-of-the-line model in both technical and decorative terms: the ultra-slim movement features a tourbillon, while the dial and movement are hand engraved. The hand-engraved cal. 6850 Initial thoughts Though this year’s Goldfeather Tourbillon is identical to last year’s edition save for decor, it looks strikingly different, underlining the different decorative techniques employed. While last year’s model was ornate and figurative, the latest version is clean and almost monochromatic. The lack of colour belies the complexity of the dial decoration. The entire dial is engraved, right down to the radial graining. Instead of conventional brushing, the radial pattern is achieved with a manual engraving technique. The stylistic different continues onto the movement, which is equally finely decorated, and also impressively slim. While the strength of the artisanal execution and ultra-thin watchmaking are obvious, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is fundamentally a facelift to a movement that’s been around for a long time. To go as far as its sister brand Grand Seiko, Credor would have to do something more novel. Fine lines The Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved is self descriptive: it i...
Time+Tide
The Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific has a tantalum case that to 2.5 years to develop, and a movement with 189 hand-finished interior angles.The post The new Fleming Series 1 Mark II Pacific is a tantalum-cased masterclass of hand-decoration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Baltic Heures du Monde further diversifies an already sizeable catalogue, and with its worldtimer complication adds further gravitas.The post Is Baltic’s new stone dial Heures du Monde the best, most affordable worldtimer ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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