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First Look – The Parisian-Inspired Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Monochrome
Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Jul 1, 2025

First Look – The Parisian-Inspired Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Synonymous with luxury fountain pens, Montblanc expanded its portfolio to include watches in 1997, with aesthetics inspired by its famous Meisterstück pens. Intent on demonstrating its watchmaking credentials, Montblanc acquired the legendary Minerva manufacture and released the Nicolas Rieussec chronograph in 2007. An unusual chronograph with revolving registers and a fascinating history, the Nicolas Rieussec […]

Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive Fratello
Credor Jul 1, 2025

Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive

If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware that I adore the Credor Locomotive. Gérald Genta’s remarkable creation is one of those standout watches that most either love or hate. There seems to be no middle ground when it comes to the watch’s extravagant looks. I was fortunate enough to spend […] Visit Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.

The Forgotten Boston Collector Who Rivalled Henry Graves Jr. SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 1, 2025

The Forgotten Boston Collector Who Rivalled Henry Graves Jr.

Between 1885 and 1920, Elliot Cabot Lee (1854-1920) quietly built one of the world’s largest collections of very complicated watches, but unlike the famous rivals Henry Graves Jr. or James Ward Packard, both of whom favoured Swiss watches (and primarily Patek Philippe), Lee was a devotee of English watchmaking during its heyday. Many remarkable watches that were commissioned by Lee, or passed through his collection, have surfaced over the last few years, such as the J.W. Benson Supercomplication, the Dent Astronomical watch, or even J.P. Morgan’s pocket-planetarium, but with their provenance unknown. Most of Lee’s collection of pocket watches. Image – The National Jeweler 1922 A patrician collector Elliot Cabot Lee was born on April 16th, 1854 in Brookline, Massachusetts. Both of Lee’s parents hailed from Boston Brahmin families and were third cousins. His father, Henry Lee Jr., was a partner at investment bank Lee, Higginson & Company, where Lee also worked, though only briefly. His mother, Elizabeth Perkins Cabot, was the granddaughter of the extremely wealthy Thomas Handasyd Perkins – a slaver turned philanthropist. Lee graduated from Harvard with a law degree and passed the bar, though he seems to have practiced law little if at all. He was well-travelled and well-read, accumulating a notable book collection, according to the Brookline Historical society. Besides his watch collection, Lee also took an interest in the nascent automobile. He built a garage, o...

Introducing – A new Frost-Inspired Edition of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Jun 30, 2025

Introducing – A new Frost-Inspired Edition of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm

Without a doubt one of the best value propositions on the market, the Khaki Field Mechanical collection has grown drastically in recent years. Inspired by vintage field watches made by the company – the Hamilton “Hacked” watch – it combines cool military looks with a fair price and undeniable flair. In addition to the base […]

Hands-On With The Bright And Colorful Swatch ScubAqua Collection Fratello
Swatch Jun 30, 2025

Hands-On With The Bright And Colorful Swatch ScubAqua Collection

Summer means sunny blue skies, bright colors, and plenty of swimming in lakes, pools, or the sea. That’s precisely what the new Swatch ScubAqua collection stands for - summer fun. The semitransparent watches are big, bold, and colorful. They take inspiration from graceful fluorescent jellyfish swaying in the current. Options include daring blue, red, or […] Visit Hands-On With The Bright And Colorful Swatch ScubAqua Collection to read the full article.

Panerai Extends Its Partnership With The Luna Rossa Sailing Team Fratello
Panerai Extends Jun 29, 2025

Panerai Extends Its Partnership With The Luna Rossa Sailing Team

Panerai launched a deluge of Luna Rossa editions at Watches and Wonders 2024. After a more back-to-basics showing this year, not including the Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech, the Luna Rossa editions return with two new Luminor models. Panerai also announces its extension with the Luna Rossa sailing team, continuing a partnership that takes us to […] Visit Panerai Extends Its Partnership With The Luna Rossa Sailing Team to read the full article.

Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf Jun 29, 2025

Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf

Like many watch brands, TAG Heuer regularly produces limited or special editions. The difference, and advantage, however, is the brand’s history and involvement with top-tier motorsports. Legions of racers wore vintage Heuer watches during the golden age of racing in the 1960s. None, though, stand out quite like the Monaco. The groundbreaking square watch is […] Visit Hands-On With The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf to read the full article.

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Owner Review: The (Near) Perfect and Relatively Affordable Watch for Everyone? Quill & Pad
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Owner Jun 29, 2025

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Owner Review: The (Near) Perfect and Relatively Affordable Watch for Everyone?

Nomos has found its own niche within the world of watches. It is easy to see why they have gained such a strong reputation by providing unique, Bauhaus-inspired designs and quality in-house movements at relatively affordable prices. In Raman Kalra’s opinion, the Nomos Club Neomatik is one of the best watches in their collection. A perfect balance of what Nomos is all about.

In-Depth – The New Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Jun 27, 2025

In-Depth – The New Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition

In the world of fine watchmaking, certifications have always played a reassuring role for clients regarding the quality of their beloved watches. Of course, COSC, the standard for chronometric certification, which is primarily focused on the precision of the watch, is the first to come to mind. But many other initiatives have surfaced over the years. […]

Cartier Crash Alternatives For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Jun 27, 2025

Cartier Crash Alternatives For Every Budget

We’re back at it again with another "alternatives" roundup for some of the most iconic watches in watchmaking history, and in this episode, we’re getting more quirky than we ever have before. Which is only fitting given today’s subject, which is one of the most subversive watch designs of all time: the illustrious Cartier Crash.  Before I launch into some quick Cartier Crash history and then contemporary alternatives at multiple budgets, let’s establish some key design ingredients in the recipe at hand. Because I didn’t want to make you all eat up some AliExpress Cartier Crash phonies, and because the design is so iconic that most watchmakers haven’t really attempted their own imitations, I will be leaning into asymmetry or hints at surrealism here instead of more 1:1 design alternatives. Before I begin, I will say that the avant-garde era of the 1960s and '70s, before the big houses had such rigid design codes, is one of my favorites in watchmaking history. Here in the modern age, many brands seem less willing to experiment boldly, and really keep things, largely, safe. Still, there are some asymmetrical watch gems out there, and below, they will get a little time in the spotlight. I will warn you now that on the current market, prices for more bold watch designs run a little steep, so the budget I’m working around here is at a higher price point than I try to stick to (though I have thrown in some affordable options). But given the exorbitant prices of the...

Baltic Introduces the Hermétique in New Summer Colors Worn & Wound
Baltic Introduces Jun 27, 2025

Baltic Introduces the Hermétique in New Summer Colors

Baltic’s Hermétique feels like a little bit of a secret weapon to me. It’s riffing on vintage watches in a much more subtle way than many of the brand’s earlier releases, and has proven to be a great canvas for creative dial variations and is, honestly, one of the only bronze watches I actually like. When it was announced back in 2023, there was some grousing about the case size, but putting the watch on makes it clear that 37mm is exactly right for a watch in this style. It’s sleek (thanks in large part to the inset crown) and thin, and can be dressed up or dressed down – it’s just a very solid watch at a very easy to digest price point (check out Ed Jelley’s hands-on thoughts from the original launch right here). And while there’s a timeless, almost generic (in a good way) quality to the Hermétique, you can’t really fault Baltic for wanting to capitalize on the seemingly irrepressible desire of watch lovers to adorn their wrists with loud colors in the summer months. Hence, we have the new Hermétique Summer collection.  These are watches that do exactly what it says on the tin. They’re the same Hermétiques we’ve become familiar with, but with dial colors that pop up when you search the #summerwatch hashtag on Instagram. Specifically, Baltic tells us they are drawing inspiration from the “California of the 70s.” Not being a Californian, nor alive in the 1970s, I can’t really speak to this personally, but as an evocation of a summery ideal,...

Introducing – The Andersen Genève Communication 45, the Worldtimer to Celebrate 45 Years of the Brand Monochrome
Jun 27, 2025

Introducing – The Andersen Genève Communication 45, the Worldtimer to Celebrate 45 Years of the Brand

Today, we’ll be talking about one of the most discreet and yet most revered watchmakers of the independent scene, Svend Andersen. Born in 1942 in Denmark, Andersen later moved to Switzerland and started working for Gübelin, where he got the chance to repair some of the original worldtime watches, with Louis Cottier’s mechanism, before moving […]

Hands-On With The Exquisite Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition - A Certified Dream Watch Fratello
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Jun 27, 2025

Hands-On With The Exquisite Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition - A Certified Dream Watch

As you might know, Chopard produces watches with two distinct certifications. In its Geneva atelier, the brand creates L.U.C timepieces that bear the engraved Poinçon de Genève. The Geneva Seal is primarily concerned with the aesthetic quality and craftsmanship of the movement. While watches bearing it must also meet specific, strict chronometric requirements, the sternest […] Visit Hands-On With The Exquisite Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition - A Certified Dream Watch to read the full article.

Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jun 26, 2025

Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 Review

The story of the Rolex Explorer 36 124270 began at Watches & Wonders 2021, which represented an important anniversary for Rolex in marking 50 years of the Explorer II, and expectations were high on what we might see the brand do with the collection. Contrary to some of the wilder predictions, Rolex played things relatively conservatively, bringing the new 3285 movement into the line while retaining the model's 42mm case. Ironically, a reversion to classic proportions did come, but it would be in the Explorer collection and a new Reference 124270, which moved back to a 36mm case size for the first time since the 39mm 214270 was introduced in 2010. This was seen as a very un-Rolex move at the time, but today, more than three years later, it’s a watch that makes a lot of sense, not just on its own, but for Rolex as a brand. The Rolex Explorer 36mm next to the older 39mm Rolex is a brand that generally moves in one direction and, until relatively recently, doesn’t go out of its way to acknowledge its past in any overt way. While Rolex still isn’t making throwback or vintage-inspired watches, the company has taken a slightly different approach in embracing its historic design DNA while transitioning its full range to the 32xx series of movements. Examples of this include the current generation of the Submariner, which has gone back to a thinner, more traditional lug; the Sea-Dweller Reference 126600, which uses a bit of red text on the bottom of the dial; and the most ove...