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Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo is a young Japanese microbrand founded in 2025 by watch industry veteran Masami Watanabe, dedicated to “honest watchmaking” from Asakusa, Tokyo. By this, Watanabe refers to timeless, well-finished and designed watches at accessible prices that steer clear of artifice and superficiality. The strong Calatrava dress-watch vibe of the debut Kurotsuki and Usuki models […]
Fratello
Today, the 44th historical re-enactment of the Mille Miglia begins. The race, featuring more than 400 classic race cars, starts in Brescia and ends this Saturday in Rome. While the spectacular figure-eight route might not be a proper race anymore, it’s still exciting for so many other reasons. It’s quite the spectacle to watch a […] Visit Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Making its debut in Shanghai, Oyster Story is an all-encompassing, immersive exhibition to mark the centenary of the Rolex Oyster water-resistant watch case, arguably the foundational achievement of the world’s largest luxury watch brand. Oyster Story takes place at June 10-28 at the West Bund Dome Art Center, a former cement factory in a district that was once an industrial area but is now being transformed into an arts and culture hub. The large, domed-shaped building on the banks of the Huangpu River covers almost 100,000 square feet, allowing for a comprehensive journey into the Oyster and Rolex history. The exhibition includes historical Rolex watches, including the actual timepieces worn by explorers and adventurers on landmark expeditions. The watches on show comprise those owned by Rolex “as well as privately owned watches kindly loaned for the event” according to the brand. Also on show is an in-depth look at modern-day Rolex watchmaking. “Cases, bezels, bracelets, dials, materials, movements: every stage of watchmaking is showcased here”, allowing a look into arguably the most advanced high-end-industrial watch manufacturing in Switzerland. The brand’s advances in timekeeping are also illustrated by the atomic clock developed by Rolex. Amongst other things it serves as a reference clock for Rolex watchmaking. Oyster Story is free to enter and open to the public.
Worn & Wound
Lots of ink has been spilled in the short span of time since the launch of the Formex Aria on the topic of small brands (microbrands, if you must) going upmarket and playing at significantly higher price points than consumers are accustomed to. When a brand releases a watch that is multiple times the cost of the watches they are already associated with, it can cause a near panic in the watch enthusiast community. Lots of “HOW COULD THEY?” type comments appear on websites like ours, Instagram, and over beers at local meetups as collectors grapple with the idea that watch brands, which are also businesses that support the lives of real human beings, might attempt to make the most of the increased popularity our hobby has received in these past few years. And that’s really what it is, right? The mainstreaming of watches has led brands like Formex, Christopher Ward, Atelier Wen, and others to feel confident in their expansion upmarket. Gone are the days when microbrands appeal solely to value conscious consumers – they have the eye of at least some traditional luxury buyers as well, and the ambitious watches they’ve developed and the prices being asked are a reflection of that. Timex, of course, is not a microbrand, but their Atelier line is a significant move into a higher pricing tier, and some of those same dynamics are in play, I think with the release of two new chronographs in the brand’s highest end line of watches. You might remember the Atelier collect...
Time+Tide
Raymond Weil breaks a 50-year run by introducing its first-ever integrated bracelet watch, blending contemporary details with classic looks
Monochrome
For a company that has spent nearly five decades building its reputation on accessible Swiss watchmaking, with quite a few recent successes with vintage-inspired releases, Raymond Weil has largely stayed away from one of the industry’s most competitive categories: the integrated-bracelet sports watch. Well, there’s a first time for everything, and Raymond Weil launches the […]
Fratello
By now, many of you should know what Albishorn is. It’s a unique approach in the indie watch scene, the love child of industry veteran Sébastien Chaulmontet, with a clever concept. Albishorn timepieces ask, “What if?” The brand’s models are modern “reinterpretations” of vintage watches that never existed. Their Marinagraph Paraíba Racing is the latest […] Visit Hands-On With The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Atelier Wen Perception V3 A lot of the attention around Atelier Wen’s Perception has gone to the dial, and for good reason. The hand-turned fish-scale guilloché comes from Cheng Yucai’s workshop in Henan, which gives each watch a level of craft that has helped separate it from the larger field of integrated-bracelet sports watches. With V3, Atelier Wen brings that same level of focus to the movement, adding a customized Pequignet EPM03 with a 65-hour power reserve, hacking seconds, and finishing developed around the brand’s Sino-French identity. Through the exhibition caseback, you see wind-shaped bridges and blue aventurine lacquer, a marriage of form and function. The familiar Piāo ice-blue and Xiá salmon versions return, joined by Yún, a new bamboo green reference featuring a micro-frosted case and bracelet – the first addition to the Perception lineup in four years. Piāo and Xiá retain the brushed and polished finishing. The Perception V3 is priced at $4,850, with first deliveries expected to begin in September 2026. Leica Cine Compact 1 Of course, we know (and love!) Leica for its range of cameras, but did you know the German brand has also dabbled i...
Time+Tide
With a subtle nod to one of the first countries to accept the brand, the new Vietnamese lacquer watch will have you looking closer.
Fratello
A few weeks ago, my latest watch purchase, a Sinn 103 St Ty Hd, arrived. I can’t tell you how many times I have browsed the Sinn catalogs over the years, whether on the brand’s website or in the printed versions we receive in the mail every year. The company from Frankfurt holds a special […] Visit Hands-On With My Latest Purchase — The Sinn 103 St Ty Hd to read the full article.
Monochrome
As the EPHJ Geneva trade fair, the major annual gathering dedicated to precision industries, including watchmaking, medtech and high-tech manufacturing, approaches (from 16 – 19 June), several suppliers exhibiting at the show have started unveiling their latest developments. Among them is Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a movement maker well known to regular readers of MONOCHROME Watches, […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. Last week, we picked our five favorite iconic watches from the 1980s. This week, we move on to the 1990s. If the ’80s were the decade of bad, extravagant taste, the ’90s toned it down significantly. Having said that, we saw plenty of remarkable watch designs in the 1990s. Some of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1990s to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The recent management changes at TAG Heuer and the wider LVMH Watch Division have given birth to a surprising collaboration: the Monaco Speed 12, an avant-garde take on TAG Heuer’s iconic square wristwatch that’s powered by the Spin Time movement made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Instead of cubes, hours are indicated by a dozen rotating pistons – the concept is a homage to the V12 engine – that seemingly float in a concentric ring around the dial. Inside the titanium case is a self-winding movement that retains the signature recessed frosting of LFT. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has been having a good run with technically interesting watches – the Monaco Evergraph is a recent example – and the Speed 12 continues the momentum. Admittedly, the Spin Time movement is not in-house, but it is surprisingly coherent despite the drastically different characters of TAG Heuer and Louis Vuitton. The Spin Time complication translates well into TAG Heuer’s automotive-inspired style, both in terms of concept and execution. Also in its favour is the restyled Monaco case that TAG Heuer has employed in other recent launches. Thought still a little chunky, it is sleeker and more ergonomic than earlier iterations of the design. The price tag of US$87,000 is similar to that of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time Air, which unfortunately makes this just a little expensive. Given the case material and TAG Heuer’s traditional price focus, a price that’s 15-20% lower would ...
Fratello
At London Watch Week 2026, Pragma announced two developments that mark the next phase of the young independent brand’s journey. First, the company announced it’s partnering with retailer Ace Jewelers for the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Second, it unveiled the first of the Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026. The exclusive P1 Perseverance […] Visit Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Indie watch brand Ming was founded by Malaysian photographer, designer and engineer Ming Thein in 2017. Since then, Ming has amassed a devoted following for its contemporary design-led watches distinguished by minimalism, luminescence, layering and colour. The latest 37.06 Lightning, a joint project between Ming and J.N. Shapiro Watches, a Los Angeles-based watchmaker, is the […]
Fratello
Today, we’ll take a brief look at a new collaboration watch from Ming and J.N. Shapiro. You may recall that both brands are founding members of the Alternative Horological Alliance, a group founded in 2024 that aims to support its members through innovation and partnership. Thus far, the AHA has given us bracelets and cases, […] Visit Introducing: The Ming × J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If you’ve seen me around in the watch community, it’s very likely you’ve noticed me wearing a Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While I’ve fooled many into thinking I own one of these beauties, the model is in fact my number one requested loaner whenever I have the privilege to borrow a timepiece for a special event. In my years adoring the Laureato, I’ve had the pleasure of trying out several iterations from the bold 42mm (proving that yes, even my rather small 5.75-inch wrist can rock a 42) to the more pared down 38mm. In all the sizes and dial colors that have graced my wrist, one of my favorites has to be the 38mm copper, which, in my humble opinion, is the ideal twist on a two-tone look. Today, Girard-Perregaux is complicating things for me yet again with some incredibly compelling new takes on the Laureato. First up, we have two variations with a solid 18-karat rose gold dials, one in 39mm and one in 36mm. Unsurprisingly, these deeply rival my former-favorite with the copper dial. I would say the copper is a bit more subtle and subdued with a slightly more matte appearance and a rich shade that lands somewhere between yellow and rose gold. The dial of the new models is decidedly shinier and more reflective with a true rose gold color that is both bright and soft at the same time. In addition to feeling torn between the previous copper dial version and the new 18-karat rose gold, I’m equally undecided on my favorite proportions for the Laureato. I thought the 38m...
Monochrome
As the official sponsor and timekeeper of the historic Mille Miglia since 1988, Chopard enjoys one of the longest-running partnerships between a watch brand and a car event. The brand’s Mille Miglia collection is the watchmaking extension of co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s lifelong passion for the classic Italian road race. With the 44th edition taking place […]
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with a watch that should prove to be a sure-fire winner. This, folks, is one of those pieces that feels like it was waiting to be made. Finally, that day is here, and we have the full rundown. It’s the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty in full stainless steel. If that doesn’t […] Visit Hands-On: The New Steel Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty to read the full article.
Fratello
Many of you probably know that Seiko introduced its first diver’s watch in 1965. However, did you also know that the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) was founded the following year? That means the association turns 60 years old this year, and it has already certified more than 30 million divers during that time. […] Visit Seiko Celebrates 60 Years Of PADI With A Limited-Edition “Turtle” — Meet The HBB002 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Heavy is the arm that wears the Inflection. Sorry, there might be a few jokes in this article about how much the Atelier Wen Inflection weighs, but that’s just the cost of making a full tantalum watch. If you’re unfamiliar, tantalum, in addition to being a rare material in watchmaking due to its difficulty to machine, is exceptionally dense. Twice as dense as steel, and thus twice as heavy. When you pick up a tantalum watch, you know it. It also has a unique color. It’s dark gray, approaching the tone of blasted grade-2 titanium, but cooler, hinting at purple. Especially when polished, it has a mysterious quality that is quite beautiful, like looking into a darkened mirror. Polishing tantalum, by the way, is notoriously tough. The appeal of the metal is clear, which is why we’ve seen a little uptick in its use in the high-end by brands like JN Shapiro, Ming, and Zenith, though, to be fair, it’s been in limited use for decades. But the Inflection isn’t just a tantalum watch; it’s a tantalum watch with a tantalum bracelet, and therein lies the Inflection’s novelty, as no other brand currently makes a fully tantalum, integrated bracelet watch. Which, as per the NYT, paraphrasing Jean Arnault says, does not make economic sense. And while it’s truly a flex and fascinating to behold, why the watch succeeds, by my estimation, is actually everything else. $29800 Review: the Atelier Wen Inflection – Heavy Metal on the Wrist Case Tantalum Movement Girard Perregau...
Monochrome
One of the pleasant surprises of 2025 and a game-changer for the very young, Paris-based independent brand, the Trilobe Trente-Deux entered the competitive integrated-bracelet sports watch segment. More importantly, however, it debuted the Calibre X-Nihilo, Trilobe’s first in-house movement, developed, produced, and assembled in Paris. Less than a year later, Trilobe expanded the collection with […]
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year. Richard Benc (Photo Courtesy Studio Underd0g). And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces. Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website. Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges. And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before. But first, some watch industry business news headlines, including secondary market price rises, executive moves at the big auction houses, an...
Monochrome
For once, we won’t talk about a new product – understand here, the launch of a new watch. Instead, we’ll look at the other side of the industry, with a movement supplier, Manufacture AMT, the sister company of Sellita (as part of the Sellita Holding). One of the largest movement makers in the Swiss watch industry, […]
Monochrome
An important and yet slightly different member of the wide Black Bay family of dive watches, the Black Bay Chrono was released in 2017, not without some comments from the crowd. Indeed, the watch featured diving elements, the signature Snowflake hands, solid water-resistance, but also racing cues such as a tachymeter scale. Since its launch, […]
Monochrome
Timing, as they say, is everything. Hot on the heels of Audemars Piguet and Swatch’s Royal Pop pocket watch, the most hyped release of the century, teased with cryptic ads, countdowns and endless speculation, Ochs und Junior arrives with a timely proposal of a pendant/pocket watch. Not everybody has the nerve to follow a headline-grabbing […]
Fratello
The fun thing about my hands-on experience with the new Arken Alterum Sage Grey is that I went into it rather blindly. While that is nothing special in and of itself, when two Fratello team members actually own an Arken Alterum, it is slightly more remarkable. Obviously, I knew about the brand and the watch […] Visit Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
Around 1990, one of my friends was lucky enough to receive an Ebel Sport Classic watch for his birthday. At the time, I was more focused on Swatch and Casio, and I knew nothing about Ebel other than that its watches looked cool. It wasn’t until a few years later, when my interest in mechanical […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Oris Big Crown started life in 1938 as a pilot’s watch with a large crown that could be operated while wearing gloves and a distinctive, red-tipped pointer hand to indicate the date on the dial’s perimeter. One of the brand’s most iconic models, the classic 40mm Big Crown Pointer Date returns today as a […]
Worn & Wound
Following a tradition that began with a limited edition Big Crown Pointer Date made in tribute to Roberto Clemente, and later continued with a similar watch honoring Hank Aaron, Oris has just unveiled a new baseball themed watch in honor of New York Yankees legend Lou Gehrig. Lou Gehrig’s legacy is bigger than baseball. His address to a Yankee Stadium crowd upon his retirement from the game is one of the most famous moments in the history of the sport, and often referred to as “baseball’s Gettysburg address.” When Gehrig retired from baseball in 1939, he ended what at the time (and for decades) was thought to be an unbreakable record of consecutive games: 2,130 in a row over a 15 season span. Nicknamed the Iron Horse for his durability throughout his playing career, his retirement due to complications from Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (ALS) is all the more poignant. Gehrig passed away at the age of 37, just two years after retirement, and in the years since the Yankees and Major League Baseball have raised millions of dollars for ALS research. Like the Clemente and Aaron watches before it, the Lou Gehrig Limited Edition is a tasteful tribute that can be appreciated well outside the sphere of baseball fandom. The watch has a number of details that fans will recognize as tributes to Gehrig’s life and career, but they are pretty subtle in their execution. The “4” in the date ring on the dial’s perimeter is highlighted in blue, which honors Gehrig’s jers...
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