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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Ben Roth Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – Jul 14, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Ben Roth

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Ben Roth shares a trio of all-time classics that span genres and styles. We love this collection for its authenticity and inspiration, with all three of these watches actually appearing in Ben’s collection.  If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I gave myself an additional challenge when choosing my three watches for $5,000, in that I didn’t want to put anything on the list that I actually own. What I wanted to dig into is exactly what I look for in the watches I wear and what pieces completely reflect what I’m looking for (and stay within the price limit.) What came from this challenge is a sharp and subtle collection that references my favorite books and movies while also being completely functional for everything life can throw at a person. Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – $1,890 A Doxa Sub 300T was the first watch I thought of for this collection, and I was originally going to pick the black Sharkhunter colorway. The blue Caribbean won out, however, because if I were ever to do the impossible and become a one watch guy a blue dive watch would be my pick. The Caribbean colorway honors that, and if the Sub 300T is good enough for the likes of Dirk Pitt and Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor then it’s certainly good enough for me. It would also be amazing on a nato strap for the summer, and I could see myself wearing...

A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix which Jun 11, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 53: Forged Carbon Regatta Timing With Tissot & More

With our first year behind us (thanks for all the well wishes!), we’re back with episode 53 of A Week In Watches with new releases from Tissot, Breguet, Seiko & more. One of our favorite watches of the summer (thus far) has come from Tissot, and it’s a forged carbon regatta timer called the Sideral. Yes, it’s a callback to something they’ve done in the past, and yes, it’s still awesome. With a carbon case and Powermatic 80 movement, this is a ton of watch (and funk) for about $1,100, see more here. Elsewhere, Breguet gives us a first look at new Type 20 and Type XX watches, with a stunning new movement and a date window that may leave you scratching your head. Head to the video on YouTube to give us your take on the date, as well as the rest of the watches in this week’s episode. Rounding things out, we’ve got news of a new Pontos S Diver from Maurice Lacroix, which is a welcome site from the brand, though we wonder if it could have done with a slight bit of modernization? Speaking of, Seiko has modernized their King Seiko with a trimmer case architecture and a new movement which brings a date to the regular production modern King Seiko. Finally, IWC has brought the silver dial back to the Mark Pilot watch and it works about as well as you’d expect, which is to say, pretty damn well. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com....

A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights Worn & Wound
Oris ProPilot Altimeter Mar 30, 2023

A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights

I think it’s safe to say that we’re past the initial shock and awe moments from the first couple of days of Watches & Wonders. As we all digest the barrage of releases, the next day or so is my favorite because now we really get to sift through each and every novelty to discover the watches that may have been overshadowed by the preliminary excitement. To look past the first glass case surrounded by all the fancy lights and signage to find the brand’s deep cuts from this year’s showing. Oris came out of the Watches & Wonders gates in a playful way by featuring their ProPilot x Kermit Edition, but a more serious, utilitarian ProPilot that has legitimate expedition-watch chops has also garnered some of our attention. Compared to its ProPilot predecessor, it’s significantly lighter and capable of pushing to greater heights – it’s the new ProPilot Altimeter. The Oris ProPilot Altimeter confidently stands as the only wristwatch at Watches & Wonders, and the world, to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter. By way of some ingenious engineering and a series of numerals and markers located within the segmented dial cut-outs, as well as a metric scale (either feet or meters depending on the reference you opt for) on the rehaut, an accurate reading of your current altitude can be read. The crown at 4 o’clock signed with an “ALT SET” wordmark manages the entire altimeter system. Unscrewing the crown activates the altimeter by allowing air to enter the case. On...

Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch SJX Watches
Franck Muller Las Vegas which instead Mar 1, 2023

Jacob & Co. Introduces a Roulette Automaton Watch

Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the  Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected? Time+Tide
Rolex price hikes which models Jan 5, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected?

Editor’s Note: In a new series for Time+Tide, we recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Turquoise and its value spike in the wake of the record-breaking Patek Phillipe Nautilus 5711/1A-018 … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CODE41: The subversive watch brand that dared to tell the truth and its latest crazy idea… Time+Tide
Ming soon but which we Dec 9, 2021

CODE41: The subversive watch brand that dared to tell the truth and its latest crazy idea…

Interviewing the CEOs of watch brands can prove to be a tiring business.  You have to circumnavigate all that smiling evasion, the confected optimism and promises for exciting releases “coming soon but which we can’t talk about yet”. Claudio D’Amore, the CEO of CODE 41, is very different.  While most of the watch industry relies … ContinuedThe post CODE41: The subversive watch brand that dared to tell the truth and its latest crazy idea… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Unveils Cintrée Curvex Central Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet inspired watch May 23, 2021

Franck Muller Unveils Cintrée Curvex Central Tourbillon

Having proclaimed himself the “Master of Complications”, Franck Muller the man was once one of the most inventive contemporary watchmakers. He has stepped back from the business that bears his name – which is now known for its extravagant style – but the brand continues to have the occasional interesting complication. The Grand Central Tourbillon is one such watch, boasting a large, flying tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Offered in a variety of coloured dials with “exploding” numerals, the Grand Central Tourbillon is powered by an automatic, form movement that traces the shape of the brand’s signature Cintrée Curvex case. Initial thoughts Today Franck Muller is mostly associated with flashy watches like the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. But long ago Franck Muller himself debuted his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1984 – a Breguet-inspired watch with just “Franck” on the dial – the first of many tourbillons he would go on to create. The Grand Central Tourbillon evokes some of Franck Muller’s history with its unusual central tourbillon. The complication is rare, with only a handful of brands having accomplished a central tourbillon, most notable amongst them Omega and Beat Haldimann. And Franck Muller has made it more interesting – the movement is automatic with a four-day power reserve. As per the norm for the brand, the Grand Central Tourbillon is available in myriad colours and metals – some iterations almost indistinguishable from the...

VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition which May 20, 2020

VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO

We have had some moments over the six plus year journey of Time+Tide, and this is certainly one of them. We have been asked by Zenith, one of the great manufactures, to help them launch this – the FINAL El Primero Special Edition in the 50th Anniversary year – the Chronomaster Manufacture Edition. Above is … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Watch our epic video about the new Zenith Chronomaster Manufacture Edition, which includes an invitation from CEO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication” which sold Jul 7, 2019

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever

The timepieces that held the title of “most complicated watch ever”, as well as their famous owners, are mostly well known – save for the long-lost English grand complication commissioned by banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Morgan was a great collector of watches, and his grandest timepiece was a double-dial, astronomical pocket watch made by J. Player & Son. It  was the most complicated English watch ever made, and perhaps the most complicated watch in the world at the time of its completion. Though Morgan’s watch has long been surpassed in complexity by other hands, and it bears the name of a defunct English brand, it has arguably the greatest provenance of all super-pocket watches. Unlike James Ward Packard or Henry Graves, who were both wealthy, accomplished, and little known individuals outside their fields, Morgan is still the best known banker in history; the biggest bank in the United States today bears his name. The grandest of all time But first, a brisk walk through the grand complication hall of fame. The most famous most-complicated-watch-ever is, of course, the Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication”, which sold for US$24m in 2014 and still holds the record for the most expensive watch ever sold. Commissioned by American banker Henry Graves Jr in 1925, and delivered in 1933, the Graves pocket watch outdid the now obscure Leroy 01 that was sold in 1904 to a Portuguese millionaire. And it also surpassed the various watches produced for automobile ...

Introducing - The Bangalore Watch Company Peninsula Carbon, with a Dial Made from Recovered Carbon Monochrome
May 26, 2026

Introducing - The Bangalore Watch Company Peninsula Carbon, with a Dial Made from Recovered Carbon

Bangalore Watch Company was founded in 2018 and has since built its catalogue with native India in focus. Aviation, cricket, space exploration and national industry have all served as foundations for its collections, often narrative-driven. Last year, the brand introduced the Peninsula Professional, a rugged, adventure-ready bezel-less sports watch inspired by India’s mountains, coastlines and forests. […]

First Look - New Independent Watchmaking Atelier Aubert & Ramel and their First Watch, the Ouréa Monochrome
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition which Oct 22, 2025

First Look - New Independent Watchmaking Atelier Aubert & Ramel and their First Watch, the Ouréa

Watchmaking prizes and competitions have a remarkable virtue. Their primary vocation is to discover new talents and bring them into the spotlight. A perfect example is the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition, which has been celebrating and supporting young independent watchmakers since 2012. For me, this award was the opportunity to discover the extraordinary talent […]

Zenith and Revolution Team Up for a Third Limited Edition “Cover Girl” in Carbon Fiber Worn & Wound
Zenith Feb 10, 2025

Zenith and Revolution Team Up for a Third Limited Edition “Cover Girl” in Carbon Fiber

The period between LVMH Watch Week and Watches & Wonders is usually pretty quiet on the watch release front, but Zenith teamed up with Revolution to drop a new edition of their ongoing series of “Cover Girl” reissues that is almost certainly the most radical rethinking of the concept yet. We’ve covered both of the previous Zenith x Revolution collaborations that sought to resurface one of the most famous references in Zenith’s vast archive. The first, introduced in 2020, was a fairly straightforward recreation of the vintage reference. The second was a titanium version, and just a little more esoteric. The third, though, is a real departure, crafted from carbon fiber for a dramatically different look and wearing experience.  The headline here is the weight. On a hook and loop strap, the Cover Girl Carbon weighs just 55 grams, significantly lighter than even the titanium version released a few years ago. It’s a little more if you opt for the full carbon fiber bracelet, but more on that in a minute. The case is in the classic A384, tonneau shape, which measures 37mm in diameter and 12.5mm tall. According to Zenith and Revolution, the carbon fiber used here is of the high modulus variety, similar to what’s seen in high end bicycles and sports cars.  The dial is also made from carbon fiber, which creates a coherent and aggressive look for the entire piece. It’s matte black and features the same “shark tooth” outer register that is common to the other Cover ...

Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Masterlink Blue - A Luxurious Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo,” which May 22, 2024

Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Masterlink Blue - A Luxurious Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch

Is the hype for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets over? If you look at a benchmark in this market segment, the steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo,” which sold for four times retail at the height of the wave, is now going for “just” twice the price on the secondary market. So, yes, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Gerald Charles Masterlink Blue - A Luxurious Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch to read the full article.

Interview: Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation SJX Watches
Grand Seiko which has enjoyed notably Aug 27, 2021

Interview: Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation

An all-encompassing brand that has something for everyone, Seiko is a 140-year-old brand with a dozen or so lines spanning the price spectrum. Its flagship brand is, of course, Grand Seiko, which has enjoyed notably strong growth outside of Japan after being spun off in 2017. Now we speak with the man who was a key part of this international expansion: Akio Naito. Appointed President of the Seiko Watch Corporation (SWC) earlier this year, Mr Naito now runs the primary watch business of the Seiko group, having climbed the ranks over a four-decade career. He has held roles across various Seiko companies around the world – one of his earliest managerial roles was head of Seiko Australia starting 2002 – and was most recently deputy chief operating officer of SWC. In that role, he was responsible for international sales and marketing. It was during his tenure that Seiko brands enjoyed notably strong growth outside of Japan, most notably with Grand Seiko in America and Europe – two key markets he personally oversaw. Our founder SJX sat down with Mr Naito recently to discuss his plans for Seiko and Grand Seiko, while also touching on topics like complicated watches and the future of watch fairs. The interview has been edited for clarity and length. Mr Naito with Wako’s famous clocktower behind him SJX: I first visited Seiko’s factories in Shiojiri and Shizukuishi 10 or 12 years ago. I like to congratulate you on how the brand has developed in that time, especially Gra...

Out Of Office: The Doxa Carbon Whitepearl is the Perfect Watch for a Multi-Sport Summer Day Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko explore Jun 28, 2023

Out Of Office: The Doxa Carbon Whitepearl is the Perfect Watch for a Multi-Sport Summer Day

“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our Editors do explore the California coast with a Grand Seiko, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and navigate the crevasses of a desert canyon with a Vero. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” With summer officially on our doorstep, the opportunities for adventure, relaxation or any way you want to spend the longest days of the year are endless. You can take advantage of the earlier sunrise to get in a longer dawn patrol session before work, or go for a leisurely hike after office hours with still a ton of daylight to spare. If you’re the less adventurous type, then that’s cool too. Head out to your local beach and dig into that book that you’ve been meaning to read, or just lay out and check back into reality whenever you deem it fit. If your local surroundings aren’t stimulating enough, then put those vacation days to work. That’s what they’re there for, right? Boo...

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) Time+Tide
Tissot revives Jun 1, 2023

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics)

The 1970s were a spawning ground for all things weird and wonderful in design, leaving behind the classical, restrained designs of the mid-century aesthetic. Bullhead chronographs, TV cases and the idea of steel as a luxury material emerged in the watch world, along with some truly unique trailblazers getting lost amid the flurry of change. … ContinuedThe post Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RedBar and Bamford Combine Carbon Fiber Monopusher Chrono with Mystery Dials in Latest Collaboration Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Feb 2, 2023

RedBar and Bamford Combine Carbon Fiber Monopusher Chrono with Mystery Dials in Latest Collaboration

Customizing luxury watches used to be an untouchable subject. But in this day and age, that sort of thinking is a thing of the past. More and more, we’ve been seeing different companies center their services around customizing individual timepieces. And it’s not just the consumer broadening their horizons. The major players in the industry have also shifted their thoughts on other creatives taking a crack at designing their watches. One name that has earned the trust of brands like Franck Mueller, Zenith, and TAG Heuer is the Bamford Watch Department. We already know that if George Bamford, founder of the Bamford Watch Department (BWD), is attaching his name to a customization or collaborative project, we’re getting something that is totally unique. Whether it’s the clever use of bold colors, well-known cartoon characters, or alternative materials, George Bamford has a proven track record with charmingly incorporating each of these features (and sometimes all three at the same time) into every watch that delivers from the BWD. The latest brand to tap into the design mind of Bamford is the world-renowned collecting community known as the RedBar Group. The new collaborative piece between the RedBar Group and the Bamford Watch Department goes by the name of the RedBar x Bamford B347. The first draw here is the forged carbon fiber case. The black case has this familiar white swirly pattern, and thanks to the way the composite material is made, each case will have its o...

OPINION: Judge not -  why you shouldn’t judge someone by the watch on their wrist  Time+Tide
Rolex natch Aug 2, 2018

OPINION: Judge not -  why you shouldn’t judge someone by the watch on their wrist 

One of my favourite quasi-apocryphal watch tales goes like this: There’s a guy who, for lack of anything better or more pressing to do with his life, decides to yacht-hop his way from home to Australia. Somewhere along the way, his watch (a Rolex, natch) is lost at sea. Upon mooring his boat, said sailor … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Judge not – why you shouldn’t judge someone by the watch on their wrist  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.