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Louis Brandt

La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker who founded the firm that became Omega in 1848.

Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Review WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Jul 10, 2019

Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Review

Introduced in Baselworld 2018, the Black Bay GMT is a new classic and bold timepiece by Tudor. This model is Tudor’s answer to GMT watches for world travellers. The Black Bay GMT owes its heritage to the Black Bay Divers watches of the 1950s. In 1954, Tudor released the first reference 7922. This was the first divers watch in the long line of legible, robust and ergonomic divers watches released by Tudor.  It was the famous American Architect Louis Sullivan that said that “according to whom, the form of an object must follow its function”. The early Tudor diver models perfectly resembled this saying as they laid down the foundations of aesthetic and technical watches that are ideal for divers. Since the first launch of the reference 7922, Tudor’s diver watches have had a constant improvement for sixty years. Each new model that was released by the brand would see unanimous recognition from professionals, such as some of the greatest military navies in the world.   The GMT function in the Tudor Black Bay GMT establishes local time without losing track of time in other time zones. The additional time zone is indicated by the red angular “snowflake” hand as described by Tudor. The characteristic snowflake hand is also used for the hour and constant second hand. This snowflake design first appeared in Tudor’s catalogue in 1969, which shows that although modernising the watch, Tudor still sticks to their heritage.  The bi-directional rotatable bezel on the Tudo...

This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Like May 24, 2019

This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years

Editor’s note: Dress watches are one of those timepiece genres with very specific ‘rules’, and can be hard to nail. One watch that always manages to look elegant and on point in a dressy situation is the Cartier Tank. Like this Tank Louis Cartier we looked at a while back … It’s hard to overstate … ContinuedThe post This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: This one has the time, now all you need is the jet – the Franck Muller Vanguard World Timer GMT Time+Tide
Franck Muller Aug 14, 2018

INTRODUCING: This one has the time, now all you need is the jet – the Franck Muller Vanguard World Timer GMT

Invented in the 1930s by Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier, world time watches brought – at a glance and all at once – the time across 24 of the world’s key time zones to the hands of international jetsetters and business-makers. Indeed, no complication provides a greater desire to conquer the world, or induces a greater … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: This one has the time, now all you need is the jet – the Franck Muller Vanguard World Timer GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru Oct 11, 2017

INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru

The latest addition to the L.U.C Heritage collection pays tribute to not only the Chopard of the past but also to the present. To understand how, I’ll have to take you through a crash course in Chopard history (don’t worry, I’ll make it quick). Chopard were founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard, who specialised initially in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SIHH 2015: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision Revolution
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision Feb 19, 2015

SIHH 2015: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have been called inventors first and watchmakers second. When visiting their manufacture, the diagrams and formulas that adorn many interior surfaces support this impression. The inventor reference is certainly no insult – the same might be said of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Greubel Forsey’s approach to watchmaking is, if not singular, certainly […]

BaselWorld 2014: Belles of the Fair: Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillion Deployant
Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillion DEPLOYANT - May 21, 2014

BaselWorld 2014: Belles of the Fair: Girard-Perregaux Tri-Axial Tourbillion

The Tourbillion is a complication that was created to optimize precision in timekeeping. Girard-Perregaux has always produced some of the most beautiful tourbillons, and this year, they upped the ante to further this feat, through the use of a Tri-Axial Tourbillion. The Tourbillion, a mechanism that was initially created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795, is used toRead More

Universal Genève Polerouter Review: The '50s Icon Returns Teddy Baldassarre
Universal Genève Feb 10, 2026

Universal Genève Polerouter Review: The '50s Icon Returns

The Universal Genève Polerouter is probably the most historically significant watch that enthusiasts of a certain age have never heard of. Okay, maybe that's overstating it, but the watch is certainly less, well, universal in its claim to icon status than several other, more well known models that debuted later. And yet, if it weren't for the Polerouter, which came out in the mid-1950s and which afforded an opportunity for a young, precocious watch designer to make his first mark on the industry, we may never have had the opportunity to experience some of those 1970s models that came later. Intrigued? Read on.  [toc-section heading="Universal Genève History (1894 - 1950s)"] Despite the “Genève” that has become attached to the company’s name, the firm originally known as Universal Watch traces its roots to a smaller Swiss city, the village of Le Locle (also home to Ulysse Nardin, Zenith, and Tissot), where it was established in 1894 by watchmakers Numa-Emile Descombes and Ulysse-Georges Perret. Descombes died a few years later, and Louis Berthoud, one of the company’s most talented watchmakers, rose from the ranks to become Perret’s partner in 1897. The pair moved operations to Geneva in 1919, forging the company's modern name and identity. The firm became known for chronographs, and eventually produced both pocket watches and trench watches (pocket watches converted to wristwatches for soldiers in the field) for armies on both sides of the two World Wars.  O...

Cartier Watches for Men Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Aug 14, 2023

Cartier Watches for Men Buyer's Guide

Once dubbed “The King of Jewelers and the Jeweler of Kings” by no less a personage than King Edward VII of England, Cartier is regarded by many watch aficionados as a jewelry house first and a watchmaker second - and a watchmaker prone to feminine, jewel-bedecked watches at that. Historically, however, nothing could be further from the truth. Cartier’s horological roots run even deeper than its high-jewelry history, and the French-Swiss luxury powerhouse has contributed some of the most historic and influential watch designs in the world, many of them aimed at men long before their appeal expanded to women.  Family Foundations  Louis-Francois Cartier (above, 1819-1904) apprenticed under master watchmaker Adolphe Piccard before founding his eponymous company, at the age of 28, in Piccard’s Parisian workshop in 1847. As Cartier’s watches and jewelry found widespread success, and an esteemed client list that included royalty like Princess Mathilde, cousin of Napoleon III, the firm moved to more luxurious quarters in the Palais-Royal District and eventually to the current world headquarters at 13 Rue de la Paix. Louis-Francois passed the reins of the growing company to his son Alfred in 1874, and Alfred brought in his sons to succeed him toward the end of the 19th Century. It was this third generation of family ownership, under brothers Pierre, Jacques, and Louis Cartier, that truly catapulted Cartier from the boundaries of France to the world stage. While Jacqu...

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet? Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet Jun 20, 2023

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet?

If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This SJX Watches
Cartier Apr 25, 2022

Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This

Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1 SJX Watches
Feb 7, 2022

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1

A quartet representing the entirety of Philippe Dufour’s repertoire went under the hammer last year, with the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 setting the record for any Dufour sold publicly when it achieved the equivalent of US$5.2 million including fees. Sold at the same auction, but for substantially less, was the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch no. 1. Despite the relative values, the pocket watch is arguably a more significant timepiece within Mr Dufour’s work. Why? Initial thoughts In today’s wristwatch-centric era, the fact that it is a pocket watch counts against it. That was also the verdict of the market – the pocket watch sold for half as much as the wristwatch in November 2021. But the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch is the ultimate distillation of Philippe Dufour’s philosophy, the ideal synthesis of the inspiration and impetus behind his creations. He has long stated, both publicly and to me in past conversations, that his watches are a reverential homage to the haute horlogerie produced in the Vallée de Joux during its heyday before the Quartz Crisis, the period between the late 19th to the mid 20th centuries. Timepieces of that era, especially those with ebauches made by the valley’s best specialists like Louis-Elisee Piguet and Ami LeCoutre, are the best watches ever made in Switzerland in his view. And the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch can pass for a timepiece from the late 19th century, perhaps even one made by Mr Dufour’s favourite historical w...

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy Time+Tide
Dec 23, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy

Raw sex appeal may have won Brad Pitt some of his early Hollywood roles. But rather than coast along on his dashing looks alone, the actor’s career has evolved to turn him into one of, if not the, biggest movie stars in the world. From Thelma & Louise to Fight Club and Moneyball to The … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.