1,436 articles · 24 videos found · page 32 of 49
Monochrome
Last year, the highly successful Aikon collection welcomed the next generation of integrated sports watches for Maurice Lacroix, with the Aikon-IC range. With the added “IC” referring to Innovative Craftsmanship, Maurice Lacroix created a playground for colours, materials and finishes, as well as complications, as seen in the Aikon-IC Master Triple Retrograde. The first series […]
Time+Tide
The master of materials is at it again, not giving us a completely new tactile feel for our watches with the new Soft Touch rubber.
Worn & Wound
Don’t look now, but Longines is having an uncommonly strong year. The release of the reworked HydroConquest dive watch in March remains one of the most discussed new releases of the year from a major brand, and their quiet but smart update of the Master Collection in June was also well received. Last month, they launched a new version of one of the more curious watches to be plucked from their archives in recent years, and while it’s certainly more of a niche product than the diver or the classically styled pieces in the Master Collection, it shows that the brand is still considering the enthusiast in spite of what is clearly a larger, big tent approach focusing on core models. The Longines Conquest Central Power Reserve in light blue is the third such watch following cream, anthracite and black dials introduced in 2024. These are incredibly charming watches in person, and lift from a design that originally debuted in 1959. It’s a fairly straightforward watch, with the central quirk (literally) being a power reserve indicator represented by a subdial in the dead center of the dial. The date appears at 12:00, and studying the dial reveals an idiosyncratic sector-like layout that is easily readable and visually interesting. The case of the Longines Conquest Central Power Reserve measures a tidy 38mm in diameter and 12.3mm thick. That is a tad taller than I’d typically like on a watch in this style, but I think it’s the price we pay for a modern, tech forward mo...
Hodinkee
You're halfway through August, Baller. August. The mind positively reels that yesterday saw the first pre-season NFL games, and soon enough even pope-themed hats and baseball games will be in the rearview, and we'll be pulling coats from closets (for those of us in the northern latitudes, anyway). Scorekeeping from last week—the Zodiac Poor Man's Heuer sells tomorrow, the Seiko 7018 passed, and the JLC Master Calendar Meteorite is still available, as is the Patek 5000R. For those who want to know more about the 5000, I strongly encourage you to read this phenomenal article by Edouard Henn on Collectability about the model, which I would have linked last week had I been bright enough to know it existed. Strays Photo courtesy of Interencheres. This Tissot Antimagnetique is worth a serious look, even though it's missing its second hand. Certainly, we'll all be missing plenty of original parts when we're as old as the watch (also, as cool as the model is, it's not so precious that its value would be dinged too much by sourcing a close-enough replacement). If that Harwood from last week's strays got your attention, here's another lovely one. Cartier Pashas have never quickened my pulse, but man oh man, this one's got its hooks in me. Solid gold Polerouter? Solid gold Polerouter. Speaking of gold, this Gubelin is both a) nothing all that special and b) impossibly beautiful, and if those gold offerings still aren't enough for you, fine, here's a Patek 3800/1 from 1995 that come...
Fratello
There’s a particular kind of contentment that comes from wearing a watch that asks nothing of you, and the master of this is the field watch. No complications to set, no bezel to align, no story to tell anyone who asks. Just a black dial, white numerals, two hands, and maybe a date. I feel […] Visit The Simple Pleasures Of Field Watch Design to read the full article.
Fratello
Konstantin Chaykin is a self-described watchmaker, inventor, and artist. In this interview (casually combating the English-Russian language barrier), Chaykin takes us on his journey from a maker of complex clocks to a master of ultra-thin watchmaking. He also shares insights into the world of independent watchmaking, Russia’s horological history, and how he injects a dash […] Visit Interview: A Glimpse Into The World Of Konstantin Chaykin to read the full article.
Fratello
There’s a particular kind of tunnel vision that sets in around steel sports Rolexes. You picture a Submariner, and the mental image arrives fully assembled: black bezel, black dial, and, welded to it, as if it were cast in one piece, an Oyster bracelet. It’s the same with a GMT-Master, Datejust, Sea-Dweller… In fact, it’s […] Visit Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea to read the full article.
Fratello
There is a very specific kind of watch that changed how I think about this hobby. This watch was not particularly expensive, and it was not Swiss. It did not come in a velvet-lined box or carry a story about a master watchmaker in some atelier within a Swiss valley. It came in a cardboard […] Visit The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-six has been a milestone year for Rolex, which is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its signature Oyster case with several commemorative models. While not as innovative as the enamel-dialled Daytona or as surprising as the revised Yacht-Master II, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 dresses the brand’s flagship time-only watch in a new proprietary gold alloy dubbed “Jubilee” gold and an aventurine stone dial. Initial thoughts Stone dials are everywhere, but as usual Rolex has found a way to stand out by using an unusual mineral. Most brands today source the same few varieties of stone — especially malachite and tiger’s eye — from the same few suppliers, resulting in stone-dialled watches that tend to resemble one another. But with its unusual aventurine dial and muted Jubilee gold case and bracelet, there’s no mistaking the Day-Date 40 for anything else. And this is also actually aventurine stone, rather than the more commonly used and less expensive aventurine glass. The exotic dial and proprietary alloy give the new Day-Date 40 a look that is both distinctive yet coherent with the rest of the collection. Many key Rolex models are perpetually out of stock, underscoring the brand’s commitment to value. While it might seem disingenuous to describe a US$65,700 time-only watch as a good value, the Day-Date 40 in Jubilee gold makes a case for itself. In a perfect world with on-demand availability, this would be a strong value proposition. The A. L...
Hodinkee
What We Know TK What We Think Something someone said someone. TK The Basics Brand: Model: Reference Number: Diameter: Thickness: Case Material: Dial Color: Indexes: Lume: Water Resistance: Strap/Bracelet: The Movement Caliber: Functions: Diameter: Thickness: Power Reserve: Winding: Frequency: Jewels: Chronometer Certified: Additional Details: Pricing & Availability Price: Availability: Limited Edition: For more, click here.
Hodinkee
Happy Friday, everyone, and I hope you're all staying busy during summer's dog days, perhaps seeing The Odyssey or reading about Milsubs (please note I'm including that not because I have any dog in that fight, just found it interesting). Scorekeeping last week's picks: the Hermès Caleche sold, the Angelus chronograph passed, the Rolex GMT Master II SARU remains available, as does the Bulova White Princ. The Goldberger collection auctions tomorrow. Strays Photo courtesy Weiss Auctions. If you're into impossible projects, here's a decent-looking Heuer 3647T that's missing its outer seconds track. If you know your Carreras, you know that track's actually a tension ring, and you likely also know it's gonna be quite a search indeed to find another, but here at BAL, we scoff at impossible projects. If you'd prefer to chase your own vintage Tudor Ranger rather than buy one of the ones highlighted two weeks back, have at it. For the completist who'd like every last horological oddity, I present this Pigeon Timer. I'm including this Movado M90 not because it's without flaw, but because it's already been bid up to $3750 at the time of writing, which seems high for what's likely mostly a parts watch (that dial can't be original, right?). Please, experts, weigh in in the comments. Finally, here's a wonderful Omega Ranchero. A few weeks back I highlighted an Omega Railmaster (there's another of those up this week, too). I'm highlighting each of them simply because they're so often...
Monochrome
For 2026, Rolex had a pretty big year at Watches and Wonders Geneva. There was, of course, the much-debated high-end Rolesium and enamel Daytona, the revamped Yacht-Master II, or a new gold alloy named Jubilee gold for the Day-Date. Then, the Crown publicly showed the special edition steel and gold Oyster Perpetual 100th Anniversary. You thought […]
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the leader behind one of the strongest turnaround stories in the industry in recent years. Guido Terreni joined Parmigiani Fleurier as CEO in January 2021 from Bulgari and has overseen a dramatic transformation in the design, style, and fortunes of the brand founded by master watchmaker and restoration expert Michel Parmigiani in 1996, with backing from the Sandoz Family Foundation. Under Terreni's guidance, Parmigian Fleurier has been transformed. Striving to convey the concept of "private luxury," the brand has released a series of surprising, elegant, technically innovative, and yet restrained timepieces under its Tonda PF and Toric model lines. The brand has done nothing less than reimagine and reinterpret classic complications, including the GMT and, most recently, the Tonda PF Chronograph Mysteriéux, which stole the show, for many, at this year's Watches and Wonders. In a wide-ranging conversation, Terreni unveils the philosophy behind the brand's discreet aesthetic and the structure behind its manufacture and organization. We discuss retail, production, and design concepts aimed at taking Parmigiani Fleurier to the next level in the hyper-competitive luxury space. There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an epis...
Fratello
Doxa is marking what would have been Clive Cussler’s 95th birthday with a new take on its most emblematic dive watch. The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler keeps the shape of the 1967 Sub 300 but features a case, crown, case back, and even the dial crafted from Grade 5 titanium. This COSC-certified chronometer […] Visit The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler to read the full article.
Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix introduced the 1975 collection last year to mark its 50th anniversary. Since then, the line has expanded to include GMT and day-date models, as well as the 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde, which was released earlier this year. Now, the Swiss brand welcomes the new 1975 Legacy with a machine-guilloché petite seconde display that sits […]
Monochrome
One of the most distinctive indie brands on the scene today, it’s impossible to mistake a De Bethune watch. Some of the signature aesthetic clues, developed by master watchmaker and co-founder Denis Flageollet, are heat-treated titanium components and random guilloché patterns. As a counterweight to the more futuristic and flagship DB28 family, the more classical […]
Hodinkee
I really didn't need the Baltic Heures du Monde, and there were numerous reasons why. I've become inextricably associated with my "Pepsi" GMT-Master II (I always kind of hoped I'd be "that guy" to be tied to a cool watch—be careful what you wish for, I guess), so much so that at our recent community meet-up, someone said they didn't recognize me without the Rolex on my wrist. I wear it most days, though I'm trying to break free of complacency since I do have a lot of other nice watches. But every time I travel, it's on my wrist as I step on the plane, so a worldtimer was just about the last thing I needed. And yet, together with my friend and our former Talking Watches guest, Adam Victor, I picked up a Heures du Monde in labradorite. There were three versions with different stones for the dial, and this specific model, with a darker, more muted color, felt most wearable and classic, so it felt like a good fit. We weren't the only ones who jumped on the opportunity, as they also sold out immediately, which meant my hands-on had to wait. Now, Baltic is taking pre-orders again, with the first deliveries slated for October. This was something they telegraphed coming during the initial release—the only difference is that the new ones aren't numbered out of 200, which means you can pick one up if you missed it the first time. So, why get one? Well, because. First of all, I'm under no illusions that everyone is lucky enough to get or afford a Rolex GMT. It was a dream of mine...
Deployant
In 1978, a Rolex GMT-Master "Pepsi" was on the wrist of the pilot who ejected from his US Air Force F-105 fighter jet. Here is the story.
SJX Watches
Master gunsmith and independent watchmaker Dewey Vicknair returns with a bespoke retrograde hour wristwatch. The American craftsman is a self-taught watch restorer that recently started making timepieces of his own, using just basic tooling. His latest watch was commissioned by a client almost one year ago and the project was completed earlier this month. Initial thoughts There are relatively few artisanal watchmakers still active that limit their output to just a couple of pieces per year. Watchmaking at this scale is not a lucrative proposition, so most independent watchmakers today tend to build for some degree of expansion. This is not the case with Dewey Vicknair, a true artisan who starts with raw sheets of brass and steel and turns the metal into unique timepieces. Along with names like David E. Walter and Jacob Curtis, Dewey Vicknair is one of the few American artisan horologists. His latest delivery is a 39 mm Calatrava-style watch with a fully open-worked dial and endowed with a clever retrograde hour complication. Made at the request of an unnamed collector, the watch features a steel case and is powered by a movement of Mr Vicknair’s own making. The movement in the making. As it was the case with past creations, Mr. Vicknair put together an exhaustive photo essay of his work, which is a recommended read for anyone looking to understand the work required to build a watch from the ground up. Although the look of the watch might not be to everyone’s taste — ...
Hodinkee
We've all been told at least once in life to stick to our own lane. It's an old trope that historically holds merit. Stick to one discipline, master it, and you'll succeed. But in 2026, the rulebook has changed in almost every aspect of life, and sometimes those one-trick ponies aren't the ones leading the charge; they're actually left in the stable. La Montre Hermès S.A in Brugg, Switzerland. In watchmaking, it transpires that the latest crop of brands to realize this are the names we most associate with being wider fashion houses. Empires sustained by hand-stitching legacy into cloth, amplified in the theatre of the catwalk, now play in the watchmaking arena. We've witnessed many of these names turn to watchmaking as an additional arm to their already bulletproof name, and crucially, they're delivering watches with real merit. For Hermès, despite having a presence in watchmaking since the early 20th century, with Universal Genève as the brand's watchmaking partner from the 1930s and the production of exclusively Hermès-signed pieces such as desk clocks, this rise has been built brick by brick since the 1970s. Outfitting horses came first, then their riders, and it quickly proved that true luxury comes from mastery, not scale. During the 1970s, the maison decided to build schools to train artisans the Hermès way, passing along hand-stitching, leather cutting, and scarf-printing techniques from master to apprentice. While other names pursued mass production or outsour...
Monochrome
It’s refreshing to come across a serious master watchmaker who knows how to have fun. Konstantin Chaykin, the Russian indie watchmaker, knows how to inject humour into his creations, including the anthropomorphic face of his smiling ThinKing, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with a profile of just 1.65mm. His popular menagerie of Wristmons (wrist monsters) […]
Monochrome
After the impressively complex watches released by Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches & Wonders 2026, including the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon or the Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin, the Grande Maison now presents a re-edition of its Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, an ambitious creation uniting the brand’s Duometre concept with a triple-axis tourbillon and a perpetual calendar complemented […]
Monochrome
Tudor continues with its modern “dark” aesthetic by launching a new version of the Black Bay Ceramic, now presented for the first time on an integrated ceramic bracelet. Originally introduced in 2021 as the brand’s first METAS-certified watch, itself following the unique Black Bay Ceramic One created for the Only Watch 2019, the model has […]
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s fascinating multi-axis Gyrotourbillon made its debut in 2004 inside a large round Master case. Four years later, the complication was adapted to fit inside the iconic swivelling case of the Reverso, followed in 2016 by an 85th anniversary edition powered by the thinner calibre 179. Fittingly for a watch with equestrian origins, the pink […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Serica's new Ref. 7505 brings its field chronometer down to 35mm with COSC certification and 200m water resistance. Priced from $1,291.
Time+Tide
Serica's latest Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer proves that size does matter after all, delivering tool watch functionality in a 35mm package
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite things is when a brand releases a watch that feels like the watch they always should have made. I’m sure we can all point to examples of this – that feeling that a new watch really belongs in the brand’s catalog, and we’re kind of surprised it never existed in the first place. That’s sort of how I think about the latest release from Serica, the Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer. Doesn’t it seem like Serica always had a 35mm field watch in their collection? More than any other watch the brand has released to date, this feels like a distillation of what the brand is really about. You’ll recall that they launched with a collection of military inspired field watches all the way back in 2019, which at the time felt like they were already going a little against the grain at just under 38mm in diameter. In the years since, they’ve iterated on this general idea, with an ongoing series of sporty selections rooted in a kind of imagined vintage world, never borrowing too much from any one classic reference, but pulling from a variety of sources to create something that is uniquely their own. Part of that has always meant keeping the watches fairly compact. Looking over the press materials for this watch and thinking about the direction the brand has gone in, I wonder if, if circumstances had been different, they may have started here, with a 35mm field watch, to begin with. This is unquestionably the right time to introduce a watch like this, at a mom...
Hodinkee
What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece. Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...
Monochrome
To our regular readers, Armin Strom needs no introduction. To those new to watchmaking, let’s say that over the past decade, the independent brand has established itself as one of the (very) few manufacturers to truly master resonance in a wristwatch. The Dual Time GMT Resonance has become one of Armin Strom’s signature platforms, evolving […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Awake is launching three new watches today, along with a new visual identity for the young brand. The three references—"Sunset," "Alba," and "Borealis"—take their names and color palettes from celestial phenomena: an ocean sunset, an incandescent dawn, and the Northern Lights, respectively. "Alba" The dials are the story here, and the story behind them is quite fascinating. The process begins in Hanoi, Vietnam, where master lacquerers apply multiple ultra-thin layers of Sơn Mài lacquer—derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree—then meticulously polish each coat to build up the dial's color. Sunset gets pink, violet, and blue. Alba gets red, yellow, and orange. Borealis gets green and yellow. Once the lacquer work is complete, the dials travel to Italy, where they're handed to the Renzetti family—one of the last workshops in Europe still practicing hand guilloché—who work them on traditional rose and straight-line engine lathes, entirely by hand, for approximately 15 hours per dial. Each groove is unique to the individual artisan and the individual piece. "Sunset" The hands and indices are constructed with a steel cap system finished in polished, brushed, and engraved textures, filled with Super-LumiNova BGW9. The result is a lume solution that's discreet in daylight but comes alive in the dark, casting a soft halo over the lacquer and guilloché beneath. All of this sits inside a new 38mm stainless steel case, a first for Awake. It fea...
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