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Revolution
In 1996, Cartier the unrivalled King of Elegance, introduced the Tank Francaise, the first Tank with an integrated bracelet design which had gradually been gaining traction since the 1970s. It took the classicism of form from its icon of icons, the Tank, and married it with a bracelet that was at once masculine in its […]
SJX Watches
Since its 2020 launch, the PRX has been a crowd favourite for making the currently-fashionable integrated-bracelet aesthetic affordable. Now Tissot has announced new additions to the collection: first the base-model PRX Powermatic 80 with an “ice blue” dial, and also the PRX Chronograph with a blue “panda” dial. Initial thoughts The commercial success of the PRX made additional variants inevitable. Fortunately, the new additions are crowd pleasers. The colourways are familiar so neither is novel but both give enthusiasts what they want. Save for the dials, both models are intrinsically identical to their predecessors. The prices remain the same, leaving them competitively priced and strong value. The shade of light blue chosen for the Powermatic 80 caters in part to the ongoing craze for robin egg blue and also brings to mind the colour of the Rolex Daytona and Rolex Day-Date in platinum. For me, this is a solid update to the model that will undoubtedly be a strong seller. Also, the Powermatic 80 now has the option of a rubber strap as an alternative to the steel bracelet (but the strap has to be purchased separately). This is the perfect solution for someone who wants a strap without seeking an aftermarket offering. As for the chronograph, the blue “panda” dial works well. The blue accents provide subtle contrast with the vertically-brushed silver dial, while being more modern than the original “panda” model that had gold hands and markers. I still wis...
Hodinkee
With a new titanium case and bracelet, TAG Heuer has made a great watch for Earth's harshest environments.
Time+Tide
The Casio G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now available in a Full-Metal yellow gold hued case and bracelet Casio are catching up with the modding community slowly, but with more originality and authenticity Solar charging and Bluetooth connectivity make it an extremely practical watch It may have taken Casio several years to catch up to the modding … ContinuedThe post The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch. Initial thoughts When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar. So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model). The large model in steel The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visu...
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Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK has had a string of successful releases over the past few years with full metal watches that incorporate some type of interesting, laser engraved design. It turns out that the G-SHOCK case and bracelet is a surprisingly versatile canvas for compelling camo designs, sci-fi influenced schematics, and the touch of an actual artist. With this latest release, the design influence is actually G-SHOCK itself, using the design of their own circuit board as a jumping off point for a very contemporary watch that pays tribute to the brand’s roots. The G-SHOCK Circuit Camouflage, reference GMWB5000TCC1, is billed as a titanium version of the very first G-SHOCK, the famed DW-5000C. You’ll note that the new watch shares the same iconic case lines as that early G-SHOCK release, just in titanium, rather than resin. The camo-like design that has been laser etched on the case and bracelet is a real G-SHOCK insider’s treat. The pattern is lifted from the 3459 circuit board found in the GMWB5000 series watches, and has been meticulously recreated using some fairly high end manufacturing techniques. The base of the watch is a coating of black IP. This ion plating technique has been the go-to process for G-SHOCK in virtually all of their recent coated metal watches. The circuit board pattern is drawn twice using a laser irradiation process, once prior to the black IP coating, and then again after. According to G-SHOCK, this process gives the pattern a depth that would not othe...
Worn & Wound
Let’s take just a minute with a couple of bar flies, Zodiac, and Rowing Blazers. This latest collaboration between Harry’s Bar, Rowing Blazers, and Zodiac features the classic Sea Wolf case: 40mm diameter, 49mm in length, and 13.5mm thick. The Sea Wolf’s lug width is 20mm, and features a five-link bracelet, but it also comes with a custom French military-style hook & loop strap with a signed metal loop. Let’s take just a minute with a couple of bar flies, Zodiac, and Rowing Blazers. This latest collaboration between Harry’s Bar, Rowing Blazers, and Zodiac features the classic Sea Wolf case: 40mm diameter, 49mm in length, and 13.5mm thick. The Sea Wolf’s lug width is 20mm, and features a five-link bracelet, but it also comes with a custom French military-style hook & loop strap with a signed metal loop. The post Just a Minute With The Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) just launched over a dozen new models, ranging from the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial to the first Offshore Chronograph with a ceramic bracelet. But one stands out despite being the smallest watch amongst the new launches. Dressed in yellow gold and a striking stone dial, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial is a throwback back to an earlier era when the Royal Oak was offered with a range of mineral stone dials. Initial thoughts Though relatively common in the 1970s and 1980s when stone dials were a thing, the turquoise-yellow gold combination is unusual today. But it has a certain timelessness so the combination remains attractive. In fact, it even feels current, a testament to the longevity of the Royal Oak design (and the current fad for robin-egg blue dials). The watch is intrinsically attractive in its design and palette. The design is simple – almost minimalist in Royal Oak terms – but the watch has presence due to its colours. It is vibrant and loud, very much the opposite of, say the new “Jumbo” in white gold, which is decidedly low key in comparison. One element I wish was different is the seconds hand – I would have preferred a two-hand dial as on the vintage Royal Oak models with stone dials. That simplicity would further accentuate the dial material. The case does feel slightly small for a modern men’s watch. It is an acceptable size, but the dimensions of the model means it feels slightly smaller than it...
Time+Tide
New stainless-steel Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet models mark first-ever debut for AP. New Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin takes a Tapisserie break with grained dial treatment. New Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm marks first to use a full ceramic case and bracelet. New Royal Oak 37mm Turquoise stone dial is a fresh take on … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
The Saxon One Chronograph offers a lot of watch for the price (€4,600). It does so many things so well, but it is most of all, an original proposition. The big question for Martin Green is, strap or bracelet?
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has issued a standard production Lake Suwa sequel to the limited edition SLGA007, the new SLGA021 Includes an Evolution 9 case and bracelet, 9RA2 5-day Spring Drive calibre, Lake Suwa textured dial. The SLGA021 dial is darker than the previous SLGA007, and also does not use a golden-toned hand and logo like the SLGA007. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches aren’t going anywhere, and more high-end manufacturers are getting into the game. Or getting back into it, as is the case with Chopard. Their modern-day classic, the Chopard Alpine Eagle, launched in 2019, has proven to be their biggest hit in recent memory, and it’s easy to see why. Based on their … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a luxurious remix of an ’80s classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Laurent Ferrier gives us a fourth iteration of the Grand Sport Tourbillon After the rich-boy flex of the Golden Brown, the reference returns to its sporty roots with a titanium case and bracelet The icing on top? A beautiful gradient salmon dial When Laurent Ferrier released the first Grand Sport Tourbillon, it stood out. In … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Laurent Ferrier cuts weight with the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Cartier Tank Française is a classic and timeless watch that exudes luxury and style. The design of the watch is sleek and elegant, with clean lines and a simple, yet sophisticated look. The case finishing is well-made, with attention to detail and high-quality materials used throughout. The bracelet is comfortable and the watch itself is weighty and substantial. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française is a luxurious and stylish watch.
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Worn & Wound
The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. The post The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise. First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details. The large model in steel with an automatic movement Initial thoughts Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000. It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one. The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, th...
SJX Watches
In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...
Worn & Wound
Watches can be tricky things to judge without getting some real world wrist time. Details like their scale or finishing details can be lost in even the best of images, and that’s to say nothing of more intangible things, like their heft or the way the bracelet wraps around your wrist. Try as we might, we still sometimes end up writing a watch off, or worse still, prematurely lauding it, before allowing enough hands-on time to appropriately confront our biases. These watches have a way of coming back to us, and like many things in life, a way of surprising us after the fact. With each example, we hope to learn a bit more about our blind spots, and take a bit more pause when scouting the landscape ahead. These are some examples of watches that surprised me after their initial launch, and what I learned from the experience. Jump into the comments below to share your thoughts and experiences. The IWC Tribute to 3705: Learning to Ignore the Numbers IWC has ridden their Pilot and Big Pilot ranges heavily in recent years, and while I enjoy the aesthetic of these watches, I’ve never been fond of the on-wrist experience with any of them. When I first saw the Tribute to 3705, I was quick to dismiss it based on some of the numbers, predominantly the thickness measurement north of 15mm. But then I got my hands on one, and it was the watch that triggered a reassessment of how I think about the numbers around watches. I even wrote an article implying you to do the same. The Tribut...
Time+Tide
The Divas’ Dream and Allegra have been given new colour schemes. The Serpenti Seduttori is now available with a black lacquer dial. The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity now has flowing diamonds between the case and the bracelet LVMH Watch Week is bringing in the new year in fine form. For this particular series, instead of breaking … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
With the heat from integrated-bracelet sports watches showing no signs of cooling off, more and more brands are getting into the game. And in some cases, they’re resurrecting those bold designs from their own back catalogues, which is exactly what Chopard did in 2019, when it released the Alpine Eagle to great fanfare. The Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This trio of novelties from the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase collection encompasses the brand’s incredible attention to detail and gem-setting savoir-faire. The first is a more simple, possibly even everyday, piece with a brand new bracelet, touted to fit like a second skin. The other two share a case and dial covered in diamonds, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s easy for panda-dialled chronographs to be pigeonholed into a specific look, or to draw comparisons with other watches that have popularised the colour scheme. Brellum’s latest addition to their Pandial line completely sidesteps this issue with a fairly unique concept - retaining the iconic panda style within a completely blacked-out case and bracelet coated … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A sporty integrated bracelet design featuring the brand's own movement.
Teddy Baldassarre
Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. Watch straps vary widely in their materials, construction, finishing, and even in their original intended usage, with some straps projecting a sense of genteel refinement and others possessing military ruggedness or everyday sportiness. Here is a look at five watch strap types, their origins, and their attributes. Dress Leather Strap The practice of attaching watches to leather straps goes all the way back to the Boer Wars of the late 19th Century, which were fought in South Africa. British soldiers began wearing their pocket watches on crude leather attachments rather than in their jacket pockets because they often needed to doff their jackets and waistcoats in the extreme African heat. By the early 1900s, pioneers like London saddlemaker Alfred Pearson and Swiss watch importers the Dimier brothers were converting pocket watches into wristwatches by soldering wire lugs onto the cases and slipping such leather wristlets through them to secure them to wrists. The style became widespread after World War I, during which military men wore these wristwatches on the battlefield, and entered the realm of high fashion in subsequent years. Leather straps are usually made from calfskin, alligator, or crocodile leather (the latter two generally being associated with a higher level of luxury), but other, more exotic types...
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