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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial SJX Watches
Minase Nov 2, 2019

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial

Having been established by Kyowa Co., Ltd, a precision toolmaker that also produces watch cases and bracelets, Minase is a brand that excels in, well, cases and bracelets. Its specialty is the high degree of surface finishing of the case and bracelet using the Zaratsu, or Sallaz, polishing technique that creates a remarkably flat, mirrored surface. Minase just gave its flagship Divido a new dégradé dial, which has a dark grey finish that darkens to black around the edges. Though similar looking dials are offered by Swiss watchmakers, and sometimes known as fumè or smoked dials, the new Divido dial is distinctly Japanese. Inspired by Japanese sumi-e paintings – that rely on different concentrations of black ink for shading and depth – the dégradé dial starts as a copper disc that is the hand-painted with several layers of black Japanese lacquer, each layer with a different concentration of black, creating the graduated finish and leaving each dial unique. The dégradé lacquer dial costs about 10% more than the standard model, which is reasonable. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Divido, which is to say extremely sharply finished. All components of the case and bracelet are produced and finished in house. Every surface of the case is finished, with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces employed throughout. Even the folding clasp sports with a mix of surfaces finishes. The polished surfaces are finished with the Zaratsu technique – that...

Steel. Sports. Lange. Meet the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 24, 2019

Steel. Sports. Lange. Meet the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

What are the most talked-about watches of 2019? Depends who you ask, obviously, but in a sizeable part of Planet Watch-Nut the answer is “luxury steel sports watch on integrated bracelet” – although not necessarily for good reasons (unless you count over-hype and over-pricing as good). During the past couple of weeks, in another part … ContinuedThe post Steel. Sports. Lange. Meet the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Oct 3, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet have once again stunned everyone with their latest full-ceramic piece of timekeeping wonderment – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Showcasing the Swiss marque’s ceramic prowess, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s 41mm black ceramic case and conforming bracelet are finished to exquisite detail, and feature both brushed and polished elements. And … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While Oct 3, 2019

Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer

Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Editor’s Sep 29, 2019

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Editor’s note: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is unquestionably one of the most important wristwatches of all time and it is steeped in history for so many reasons. For a start, the unique aesthetics of the now iconic watch and integrated bracelet were designed by the doyen of horological design, Gérald Genta, in less than 24 hours. … ContinuedThe post Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium SJX Watches
Casio debuted Sep 19, 2019

G-Shock Introduces the 5000 Series in Full Titanium

A year after Casio debuted the G-Shock “Full Metal” in stainless steel with a matching bracelet – and the whopper in solid 18k yellow gold – it has announced the G-Shock 5000 Series in titanium. The new launch is not a limited edition per se, but will only be produced for a limited time. Like last year’s “Full Metal” edition, the G-Shock GMW-B5000TB takes its cues from the original G-Shock DW5000 of 1983, but in matte black titanium with gold accents. But more intriguingly, the titanium case and bracelet are coated with diamond-like carbon (DLC) that has a granular finish meant to mimic the look of the rubber case of the standard G-Shock. The use of titanium means the new G-Shock is significantly lighter than the steel equivalent, weighing just 110g – a third less than the G-Shock “Full Metal”. And the G-Shock in titanium has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, an upgrade over the mineral glass found on the steel version. Function-wise the G-Shock titanium edition is identical to the steel model. It’s solar-powered and incorporates a world time, stopwatch and alarm, as well as Bluetooth connectivity to a smartphone with the G-Shock app. An additional all-titanium G-Shock with a laser-engraved camouflage motif, the model GMW-B5000TCM-1, has been leaked online, but not yet announced officially. It will likely be launched later in the year. Key facts Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium with DLC coating Water resistance:...

Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Sep 16, 2019

Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Editor’s note: Recently, we talked about some sports watches with an integrated bracelet that could be great alternatives to the usual suspects from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. Thing is, though, there’s another awesome timepiece from one member of the horological holy trinity that also fits the bill for an awesome integrated sports timepiece – … ContinuedThe post Revisiting the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel SJX Watches
Doxa Introduces Aug 15, 2019

Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel

Most famous for making distinctively styled dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s, Doxa produces pretty much the same watches today as annual limited editions. The latest is the Sub 200 T.Graph, a remake of a 1969 diver’s chronograph – the flagship model of its day and now a rare, sought-after watch. The watch was first reissued as a 50th anniversary commemorative edition with an 18k yellow gold case and bracelet at Baselworld 2019. Now the more sensible steel version has arrived, and is still faithful to the original in shape and style. Typical of 1970s design, the case is a chunky cushion shape and matched with a “beads of rice” bracelet. The dial is orange – reputedly easier to see underwater than black – with block-style markers and hands, also typical of 1970s watches. And all the luminous paint on the dial is faux vintage Super-Luminova in “old radium” colour, meant to replicate the look of the aged tritium on the vintage originals. And the bezel is Doxa’s own dual-scale bezel that has both the dive time in minutes and depth in metres, allowing for recording of time underwater without decompression stops. The movement inside is a “new old stock” Valjoux 7734, which is vintage and dates to the 1980s, but is not the same calibre as in the original. The original was powered by the Doxa cal. 287, a hand-wound movement that was a rebadged cal. 310-82 from Eberhard, a sister company of Doxa at the time. In its day, and still today, the cal. 7...

Introducing the New Seiko 5 Sports Collection SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Sports Collection Long Aug 7, 2019

Introducing the New Seiko 5 Sports Collection

Long offered in a dizzying range of iterations – all priced extremely affordably – the Seiko 5 Sports collection has, for the longest time, enjoyed stardom in the segment of watches below US$200. The affordability of the range and its core features – automatic winding, day and date, water resistance, a durable case and bracelet, plus the recessed crown at four o’clock – have been a gateway drug for aspiring watch enthusiasts who have never owned a mechanical timepiece. The Seiko 5 Sports line-up has just been streamlined, and now consists of five core variants, each conceived for a specific style of dress. The entire line-up will be made up of 27 specific models. All the watches are essentially “diver-lite”, looking much like Seiko’s “SKX” scuba diver’s watches but not built to the same robust standards. The new Seiko 5 Sports collection is centred on a common watch design, sharing the same case, rotating bezel, hands, and dial design. And the movement used across the line is the self-winding cal. 4R36. All the redesigned models are identified by the new Seiko 5 logo that has the “5” rotated 45 degrees to the left. The first Seiko 5 Sports from 1968 What seems to be missing from the revamp is a new version of the popular Seiko 5 Sports “field watch” that has a distinctive, military-inspired design and has long been a perennial favourite for first-timers to the watch world. Given Seiko track record in swiftly iterating a model into do...

Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G Jun 26, 2019

Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft … ContinuedThe post Leap year? No worries – 3 celebrities rocking the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The big-hearted Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart  Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart  Dec 20, 2018

VIDEO: The big-hearted Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart 

Many of Rado’s case designs lean towards what we can, in air quotes, refer to as ‘designer’. Sleek, modernist offerings that evoke a high-concept design language. The HyperChrome has some elements of these, in the lines of bracelet in particular, but the overall shape is one of their more traditional - a simple, sturdy round … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The big-hearted Rado HyperChrome XL Open Heart  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph Nov 18, 2018

VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph

For all that skeletonised watches are meant to be about reducing mass, the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph is a watch with a lot of substance, and much of it ceramic. The case, middle, bezel and bracelet are all made from Rado’s signature material, and have been treated with a range of processes - keeping … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bare bones - the Rado HyperChrome Skeleton Automatic Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The stripped-back Santos – Cartier’s Santos de Cartier Skeleton Time+Tide
Cartier s Santos de Cartier Jun 13, 2018

VIDEO: The stripped-back Santos – Cartier’s Santos de Cartier Skeleton

Last week we had a look at the ‘regular’ version of Cartier’s updated Santos, and today the less-is-more Skeleton is under our lens. To be specific, we’re talking about the large steel model (though there’s a pink gold version as well), which comes on the QuickSwitch and SmartLink equipped steel bracelet, replete with those prominent … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The stripped-back Santos – Cartier’s Santos de Cartier Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver that seems to have won everyone over Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Apr 25, 2018

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver that seems to have won everyone over

Oh what a difference a strap makes. Last year, when Longines chose to pair their mighty Legend Diver - a watch the Vice President calls the most successful heritage model ever - with a Milanese loop bracelet, they succeeded in creating a third wave of interest in the model that made its way to the door of Time+Tide in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver that seems to have won everyone over appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted – same Octo, completely new look Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted Apr 18, 2018

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted – same Octo, completely new look

Bulgari blew us away last year with their Octo Finissimo Automatic – that mind-boggling thinness; the incredible lightness of being at one with its titanium case and bracelet, feeling it drape around the wrist. For Baselworld 2018, it’s back – this time in full gold. And if you think “solid gold bracelet watch” means 1980s-style … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted – same Octo, completely new look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver is back, and yes, it’s in black. All black Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Mar 20, 2018

INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver is back, and yes, it’s in black. All black

The Longines Legend Diver Watch, a reimagined version of a diving watch from the 1960s, had a dramatic reintroduction in 2017, care of the Milanese bracelet addition - perhaps the best strap hack of the year, period - and now it’s going to set pulses racing even faster with a new version in black PVD. Vital Statistics … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver is back, and yes, it’s in black. All black appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Step aside Patrimony and Calatrava, the Rolex Cellini Date is here to take you to your next function Time+Tide
Rolex Cellini Date Oct 9, 2017

VIDEO: Step aside Patrimony and Calatrava, the Rolex Cellini Date is here to take you to your next function

The Rolex Cellini range could be described as ‘the Rolex you wear when you don’t want to (be seen to) wear a Rolex’. It is bereft of practically all of the Rolex design codes that make their watches among the easiest in the game to spot at 20 paces. There is no iconic Oyster or Jubilee bracelet to … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Step aside Patrimony and Calatrava, the Rolex Cellini Date is here to take you to your next function appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LOOKBOOK: Three ways to wear Baume & Mercier’s steel Petite Promesse Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Nov 19, 2016

LOOKBOOK: Three ways to wear Baume & Mercier’s steel Petite Promesse

Take a good look at the image below. What do you see? A ladies’ dress watch, right? That’s a fair point. When you have 44 brilliant-cut diamonds bracketing a mother-of-pearl dial, a teeny 22mm case and a wrap-around bracelet, it’s clear we’re not operating at the rough-and-ready end of the watch spectrum. But don’t be … ContinuedThe post LOOKBOOK: Three ways to wear Baume & Mercier’s steel Petite Promesse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01 Worn & Wound
Seiko Yesterday

Industry News: Ronda Returns to Mechanical Movements with the Impressive R01

Typically, not a lot happens in the world of third-party mechanical watch movements. The ETA2824 reigned supreme for decades until Swatch Group stopped openly supplying them, giving way primarily to Sellita, Soprod, and La Joux Perret on the Swiss side, and Miyota and Seiko on the Japanese side. For the most part, the catalogs of those brands stayed relatively unchanged for many years, but now, it appears that there’s a bit of an arms race happening. The days of 42-hour power reserves are over, and brands are now vying for features and specifications once limited to more expensive calibers; to that end, there have been a series of interesting events/releases. First, the COSC announced the creation of the “Excellence Chronometer” standard with a -2/+4 accuracy standard among other considerations. Sellita launched the SW200-2 Power + movements with 65-hour reserves, new gear trains, and other improvements. The CEO of La Joux Perret spoke about the upcoming G-200 caliber, which will feature a 72-hour reserve and antimagnetic properties, on the Hodinkee podcast. And this week, a very exciting new automatic was announced by a surprising source: Ronda. The R150 launched in 2016 Ronda is a well-known Swiss manufacturer that was founded in 1946. Over their 80 years of existence, they have specialized in many things, from component manufacturing to ebauchés and full mechanical movements to, beginning in the 1970s, quartz calibers, which is what they are best known for today....

Introducing the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, the Brand’s First Ana-Digi Watch Worn & Wound
3 days ago

Introducing the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, the Brand’s First Ana-Digi Watch

Few innovations in automobile engines have been as impactful as the turbocharger, first brought to production cars in the 1960s and popularized in the United States largely thanks to the iconic turbodiesel 1978 Mercedes-Benz 300SD. With a telltale whistle accompanying that extra boost of power, the turbocharger soon became synonymous with motorsports and performance cars of the 1980s: the Audi Quatto’s breathy flutter, the 930 Porsche 911 Turbo’s heartpounding lag, and the Ford Sierra RS Cosworth’s European rally dominance all helped propel the decade into the “golden era” of turbocharged performance.  With their latest release, motorsport-inspired watchmakers Autodromo are bringing another homage to a period of automotive innovation, this time highlighting the Group C “prototype” class of sports cars from the 1980s, many of which featured bold (and sometimes dangerous) turbocharged power. The basis of this new collection is their already-successful Group C digital watch, initially released in 2023, and the new Turbo Sport models draw inspiration from the analog tachometers of turbocharged ‘80s motorsports legends to create an ani-digi design that straddles the classic and modern eras of automotive and horological design.  First, the dimensions: measuring in at 38.5mm in case diameter and 40mm lug-to-lug, the Group C Turbo Sport is compact, and sits fairly lightly on the wrist with a 11.4mm case thickness measurement. The case itself is anodized aluminum ...

Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition Fratello
Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power 4 days ago

Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition

Today, the 44th historical re-enactment of the Mille Miglia begins. The race, featuring more than 400 classic race cars, starts in Brescia and ends this Saturday in Rome. While the spectacular figure-eight route might not be a proper race anymore, it’s still exciting for so many other reasons. It’s quite the spectacle to watch a […] Visit Introducing: The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu — 2026 Racing Edition to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5396R-016 Annual Calendar 4 days ago

Hands On: Patek Philippe Ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar “Pink on Pink”

Patek Phillippe’s 2026 collection is diverse, but one of my favourites is paradoxically one of the least novel: the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R-016 with a metallic “sand beige” dial and rose gold case. This is merely a new dial for a model that’s been in the collection for 20 years so it is not genuinely novel – though the movement has been upgraded and improved over that period – but it is appealing. The new ref. 5396R is handsome, and importantly, subtly evocative of vintage “pink on pink” watches, which pairs well with its traditional layout. Initial thoughts For anyone who likes old-school Patek Philippe design, the new ref. 5396R is likely the best looking annual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Both the colour and style are classic with a capital “C”. Ironically, it is perhaps the least interesting because neither the design nor movement are new, but this illustrates the fact that the appeal of a watch is more than just intrinsic feature and specs. Good looks, however, come at a price. The new ref. 5396R costs CHF54,000, or about US$67,000. It’s expensive but not outrageously so compared to the competition. For example, it’s about 5% pricier than the recent Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar, which is a better watch in most tangible respects, but not quite as pretty as the Patek Philippe. The premium pricing reflects Patek Philippe’s privilege as it has both the status and history to price as it desires – which the brand deserves. But ...