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Insight: The Geometric Efficiency of Escapements SJX Watches
Aug 5, 2024

Insight: The Geometric Efficiency of Escapements

Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement.  Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved.  That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...

Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes Fratello
Aug 4, 2024

Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes

I’m all for a tough sports watch with a muscular design accompanied by a matte black or blue dial, a solid depth rating, and big, blocky lume-printed indices. But the Beaufort Pulsatimer is a conflicting mix of this and dressy vintage, and it frazzled my watch-brain neurons. I have a confession to make: sometimes a […] Visit Hands-On With The Beaufort Pulsatimer - A Brawny Blend Of Retro Delights And Tool Vibes to read the full article.

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko we’ve been lusting over Aug 3, 2024

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds

Watch budgeting is a funny thing. For most collectors, it involves a significant amount of mental gymnastics as money is moved in and out of an imaginary bank. We say things like “sorry, no funds in the watch bank” when our friends are selling a watch we don’t want to buy. But when Jomashop is offering a deal on that Seiko we’ve been lusting over, funds are magically ready for immediate withdrawal. Sometimes this is because we’ve recently sold some watches and actually have a positive balance in the watch bank. But often, we buy that new Seiko on “credit” with a self-promise to liquidate the current collection to restore financial balance.

Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Wempe Signature Collection - A Stylish Summer Sports Watch Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Wempe Signature Aug 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Wempe Signature Collection - A Stylish Summer Sports Watch

In its Signature Collection, Wempe presents special limited editions of watches created in collaboration with the brands the renowned retailer sells. This collection already includes some good-looking special editions of famous watch models, such as the Breitling Navitimer. Now it is Ulysse Nardin’s turn with the Diver Net Wempe Signature Collection. Fitting the season, this […] Visit Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Wempe Signature Collection - A Stylish Summer Sports Watch to read the full article.

Event – The GMT Watch Safari, A Week of Experiences to Discover Swiss Watchmaking Monochrome
Aug 2, 2024

Event – The GMT Watch Safari, A Week of Experiences to Discover Swiss Watchmaking

To celebrate their 24th anniversary, our colleagues at GMT Magazine are organising an exclusive watch experience for 24 lucky watch enthusiasts, from October 27 to November 1, 2024, in Switzerland. This meticulously curated tour will offer a behind-the-scenes look into the heart of Switzerland’s legendary watchmaking industry. From Geneva to the historic Jura Mountains, and […]

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624 Aug 2, 2024

Introducing – The New Panerai Luminor Logo 44mm PAM01624

When it comes to Panerai, we’ve seen the brand getting slightly out of track from time to time, with complex movements, smaller watches with low water-resistance and innovative materials that didn’t feel too convincing. So, when the brand introduces a nice-looking, straightforward model that does everything you want from a Panerai, we somehow have to […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Lex’s Picks From G-Shock, Tudor, And Patek Philippe Fratello
Patek Philippe What should you take Aug 2, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Lex’s Picks From G-Shock, Tudor, And Patek Philippe

What should you take with you on your quickly approaching summer holiday? Well, as little as possible, meaning just one watch to do everything you do on a vacation. “Travel light, easy, and carefree” is my motto. Picking the best summer watches at three different price points to accompany me on my vacation is a […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Lex’s Picks From G-Shock, Tudor, And Patek Philippe to read the full article.

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Aug 1, 2024

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr

Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...

In-Depth – Visiting Bremont, Understanding The Evolution and Answering Collectors’ Concerns Monochrome
Bremont Understanding Aug 1, 2024

In-Depth – Visiting Bremont, Understanding The Evolution and Answering Collectors’ Concerns

Today, for once, we won’t be travelling to Switzerland. We’re heading to a slightly more unusual place, in a country that’s not primarily known for its watchmaking industry. In a little town called Henley, about 30km away from London, is one of the very few large-scale watch brands of the United Kingdom, in fact probably […]

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT Updates the Brand’s Signature Diver Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Aug 1, 2024

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT Updates the Brand’s Signature Diver

New from Christopher Ward, we’ve got news of the latest addition to their Trident line-up. The C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT marks the return of the complication that’s been a favorite among brand enthusiasts. Originally released just a year after the original Trident, this four-handed watch quickly found its way as the preferred watch for those travel and sports-minded among us. Now, the C60 Trident Pro has returned and is better than ever. Coming in three colorways (light blue/blue, white/blue, and turquoise/yellow), the watch remains refined in details without ever veering into the “dull” category. In fact, Christopher Ward’s confidence in the Trident series shines through when there is so little decoration to take away from the balance of this watch’s overall design. The watch is stripped down to the essentials, making it one that, when it comes to performance and wear, really speaks for itself. Each colorway is complemented by a 40 mm stainless steel case and a corresponding bezel. A bi-color ceramic bezel is available for the blue models, while a steel relief bezel for the turquoise option. And with three bracelet options to choose from, it’s the subtle variations which show the thoughtfulness behind the C60 Trident Pro 300 GMT. This reference runs on a Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, allowing enthusiasts to appreciate its inner workings. Getting back to the roo...

Hands-On With The New Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Coppa D’Oro Delle Dolomiti Fratello
Aug 1, 2024

Hands-On With The New Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Coppa D’Oro Delle Dolomiti

Today, I’m looking at a watch that pays tribute to the Coppa d’Oro car race. There are a few alternate hobbies and interests that seem to complement watch collecting. Perhaps none come as close as the fascination with cars. It’s the similarity that they are mechanical objects with the sole original purpose of being useful […] Visit Hands-On With The New Echo/Neutra Cortina 1956 Coppa D’Oro Delle Dolomiti to read the full article.

Introducing – The Refreshing Chronoswiss Delphis Sub Zero Monochrome
Chronoswiss Aug 1, 2024

Introducing – The Refreshing Chronoswiss Delphis Sub Zero

The Ebstein family acquired Chronoswiss from founder Gerd R. Lang in 2012. Respecting many of Lang’s signature complications and design language, including his iconic Regulator, CEO Oliver Ebstein and his team have infused the brand with a refreshing contemporary spirit. Classical decorative techniques are injected with eye-catching colours and textures, producing a repertoire of vibrant […]

Interview: Edouard Meylan on Building H. Moser & Cie. for the Long Term SJX Watches
Richard Mille Aug 1, 2024

Interview: Edouard Meylan on Building H. Moser & Cie. for the Long Term

Edouard Meylan took the helm of H. Moser & Cie. just over a decade ago, after the brand was acquired by his family. Together with his brother Bertrand, who leads the brand’s distribution, the chief executive of Moser has successfully turned around a brand that was in dire straits when the Meylans took charge. Industry talk at the time was that the brand’s founder, a dental implant billionaire, had sunk some CHF100 million into Moser. Today Moser is an independent brand that’s widely regarded to be on sound footing. Despite the slowdown that is gradually taking hold in the luxury-watch industry, Moser will in all likelihood enjoy a longevity, unlike many of its peers in the independent watchmaking space. Notably, neither Edouard Meylan nor his brother are watchmakers, instead they are entrepreneurs in the mould of Maximilian Büsser and Richard Mille. Mr Meylan’s business sensibilities are apparent, as we discover in the interview below. Amongst other things, he explains why the Streamliner is capped at a third of overall revenue, despite being a runaway bestseller. He also discusses the brand progressive vertical integration, as well as the possibility of expanding his family’s holdings beyond the duo of H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. Bertrand Meylan (left), and Edouard Meylan The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Moser recently got into Formula 1 [with the Alpine F1 Team sponsorship], and I understand you just returned from a race. Edouard Meylan...

The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today Fratello
Aug 1, 2024

The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today

The news of the MoonSwatch Mission to the Super Blue Moonphase has been out for a couple of weeks. This latest addition to the MoonSwatch lineup is the third of the Mission to the Moonphase models. It will be available until the full blue moon on August 19th. With this short sales window, Swatch is […] Visit The New Bioceramic MoonSwatch Mission To The Super Blue Moonphase Is Available Starting Today to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Aug 1, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition

Today, Seiko introduces a limited edition of a recently updated watch. This is the new Prospex SPB473, which has the specifications of the old, beloved SPB143. This version dials up the summer vibes with a bright faded dial inspired by the Greek island of Zakynthos. There is plenty to unpack, so let’s dive in! The […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Quartz Guide: The SBGP013 Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jul 31, 2024

Grand Seiko Quartz Guide: The SBGP013

Today we’re looking at one of the best ways to get into Grand Seiko if you’re just discovering the brand for the first time. Or maybe you’re just looking for your “one nice watch” and want something that can do it all. One that can go straight from the office to kicking back on the weekend, perhaps even dressing up for special occasions. A GADA watch, if you will. So if you’re just now starting to go down the rabbit hole of luxury watches, you’ve probably become somewhat familiar with Grand Seiko. The brand came into existence in 1960 as a high-end offshoot of Seiko, a shot across the bow of the Swiss watch industry, and a statement that its quality could match anything in the watchmaking world.  One thing you’ll notice as you start to look deeper into Grand Seiko is the astonishing level of craftsmanship that touches every part of every watch they make. Just like Rolex and Seiko itself, Grand Seiko is one of the most vertically integrated watch brands in the world – in other words, it manufactures nearly everything that goes into its watches. From finely polished stainless steel, precious metals, and high-intensity titanium cases to its innovative and beautifully finished movements and breathtaking dials that draw inspiration from nature, Grand Seiko does it all, going to some extraordinary lengths, including growing its own proprietary quartz crystals, and manufacturing the lubricants that go into each movement.  If you take a look at Teddy’s video ...

Citizen Celebrates a Major Milestone with the Essence of Time Exhibit Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates Jul 31, 2024

Citizen Celebrates a Major Milestone with the Essence of Time Exhibit

Citizen watches have played an enormous role in shaping the taste and opinions of many of us at Worn & Wound, and the same can likely be said for a large percentage of our readers. They are a brand that is truly ubiquitous in that their philosophy has always been to create watches for everyone, for every citizen, and that comes through loud and clear when you take even a cursory look at their product offerings at any given time. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded their reach into the enthusiast watch world through a variety of releases that offer an exceptional amount of bang for buck when it comes to materials, technology, and aesthetics, while always maintaining their mass market appeal. Anyone who follows the watch industry closely knows that there are only a handful of brands that can truly claim to be embraced by both the mass market and the cult of watch aficionados, and Citizen is most definitely part of that exclusive group.  This year marks the 100th anniversary of the very first Citizen watch, and they’re marking the occasion with a traveling exhibition that should appeal to hardcore collectors and hobbyists as well as more casual watch lovers and Citizen owners. The Essence of Time exhibit, which we had a chance to tour recently at its New York City debut, is an impressive testament to Citizen’s impact on the watch landscape over the past century, and offers the public an opportunity to view important Citizen watches from throughout the brand...