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Seiko Introduces the SPB497, a New Limited Edition in the Presage Collection with an Unglazed Porcelain Dial Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Jun 6, 2025

Seiko Introduces the SPB497, a New Limited Edition in the Presage Collection with an Unglazed Porcelain Dial

Last week in this space, I wrote about a crop of new Seiko 5 Sports watches more than a little indebted to the classic SKX line of divers, and there was, perhaps, some concern trolling about the current state of the Seiko brand. In my view, there’s no denying that Seiko’s grip on the enthusiast world has loosened a bit when it comes to watches in this genre. There are just so many options these days at competitive price points, brands that are willing to experiment and take risks, and Seiko is a little left behind making watches that are exactly fine but break little new ground, cost more than they did five years ago, and are missing some key features (screw down crowns, etc.) that a certain type of collector insists upon. So that’s the state of affairs with their entry-level sports watches, but of course that’s only a sliver of what Seiko actually produces. Another tentpole of Seiko enthusiasm (though perhaps a bit less widely celebrated) is their Presage line. Seiko Presage watches tend to be dressier pieces that exist to celebrate traditional Japanese craftsmanship and culture. Over the years, a number of watches in the Presage collection have achieved a level of classic status in the enthusiast world (the various “Cocktail Time” watches immediately come to mind). Among my personal favorites in the Presage collection are watches with dials crafted with urushi lacquer and enamel, and earlier this week Seiko announced a reference representing a first for the b...

[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces Worn & Wound
Ming Jun 6, 2025

[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces

Ming launched their first watch, the 17.01, back in the summer of 2017. That watch sold out quickly, as did subsequent watches, and over a relatively short span of the time, the brand achieved an almost reverential status among affordable independent and micro-brands. The watches, from the beginning, have been stylish, highly distinctive, and have pushed design boundaries.  Our thoughts on Ming have evolved along with the brand itself. While the 17.01 is still easily recognizable as quintessential Ming, it’s remarkable to consider how much the brand has accomplished since that watch’s debut. Through rigorous roadmapping and experimentation, Ming has evolved into a significant indie brand with an ultra-clear design language. In the brand’s earliest days, it would have been easy to lump them in with other small brands finding their way in a competitive watch landscape. But over time, and particularly with their most recent crop of releases, it’s become clear that their ambition and ingenuity set them apart.  Some examples? Both are discussed in this video, but the use of white emitting lume on the 37.02 Minimalist and the impressive water resistance of the 37.09 are both illustrative of ways in which the brand is willing to invest in finding new ways to make their watches. The creative use of luminescent material has been a hallmark of Ming watches from the very beginning, and they’re rightly proud of figuring out a way to mix lume that truly emits white, somethi...

Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Fratello
Jun 6, 2025

Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

I have had the pleasure of meeting Josh Shapiro, owner of the eponymously named J.N. Shapiro Watches, several times. Hailing from Los Angeles, he has a wealth of knowledge about watchmaking history, movements, and finishing techniques. Until now, he has focused on exclusive and expensive watches with prices over $75,000 and wait times of nearly […] Visit Introducing: The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure to read the full article.

Rolex Nicknames Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jun 5, 2025

Rolex Nicknames Explained

When it comes to Rolex, nicknames for its watches are almost as plentiful as the watches themselves – and often so esoteric that even avid watch enthusiasts can be perplexed by them. Can you tell a Kermit from a Hulk, for example? Or a John Player from a John Mayer? And would you be able to identify a Thunderbird or a Texano in the rare chance you’d come across one these days? Rolex’s legions of fans have been bestowing colorful and often esoteric nicknames on its most noteworthy watches for decades, and there are more of them than you probably even realize. Here’s a mostly alphabetical primer on the top 20 Rolex nicknames you’re likely to hear (and maybe even use) regularly in today’s buzzing watch-enthusiast community.  Batman GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR Debuting in 2013, this Rolex GMT-Master II reference garnered the nickname “Batman” for its first-of-its-kind bicolor Cerachrom bezel in shades of blue and black, which undoubtedly brought to mind for many enthusiasts the signature colors of DC Comics’ dark-garbed guardian of Gotham City. This “Batman” moniker is now applied primarily to the model on the three-link Oyster bracelet.  Batgirl GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR As alluded to directly above, the “Batgirl” name has been applied to the Ref. 126710BLNR of the aforementioned GMT-Master II, introduced in 2019, which differs from the original “Batman” only in its choice of a Jubilee bracelet rather than an Oyster. Is one more masculine...

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only SJX Watches
Breguet s work but Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only

Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...

Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT Fratello
Jun 5, 2025

Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT

Have you ever noticed that most GMT watches are quite sporty? That’s great for many people, but what if you travel for work or simply have a more formal style? Well, Canadian microbrand Héron has got your back! I would like to introduce you to the Héron Mirabel GMT, a dressy travel watch - or, […] Visit Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT to read the full article.

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver Fratello
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver

In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition Monochrome
Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Jun 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition

In certain very specific situations, one’s life could very much depend on a watch, especially when it comes to environments humans are not good at surviving without support. And this is where tool watches can, literally, play a vital role. Plunging ourselves into the depths of the ocean, for instance, is a fine example of […]

Introducing – The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary Monochrome
Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 Jun 4, 2025

Introducing – The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary

As we’ve explained already, Breguet, one of the most important brands in the industry, is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his company in 1775. With this in mind, we can tell you that Breguet has already released several special edition watches, all done in its […]

A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Worn & Wound
Jun 4, 2025

A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

When Zach Kazan told me the other day that a couple of watches by J.N. Shapiro had arrived at the office, I did a double-take. Not privy to the conversations he had been having regarding an article in progress, finding out that two watches by this revered independent were in the office was an exciting surprise. Although I’ve come across perhaps two in the wild I can recall (one a sample of the Resurgence and the other a custom piece for a collector), they aren’t the type of watches that get sent around very often, being rare and high-end. It turned out, perhaps in an even more exciting turn of events, that these weren’t your ordinary, if such a thing exists, J.N. Shapiros; rather, they were samples of a new line called the Infinity Series Pure. A new duo of watches meant to open, or re-open, the brand to a broader audience of collectors. Though still highly limited in nature, these watches aren’t one-offs or custom pieces. Instead, they are serially produced, albeit in only 18 pieces per color, and feature in-house, engine-turned guilloché dials and handmade, finished precious metal hands. As such, although intended as a more accessible model, the term is relative, and the Infinity Series Pures are priced at $26,000, placing them in an interesting competitive space for independent brands. Back to the point of them being in the office, I couldn’t help but spend time with these watches. And, thus, also form some opinions on them. So, although my time was limited, ...

What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? Fratello
Rolex Land-Dweller? Jun 4, 2025

What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?

The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.