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We asked a 5 year-old to pick the best watches of 2023… Time+Tide
Jul 2, 2023

We asked a 5 year-old to pick the best watches of 2023…

Reviewing watches is a subjective business. As you look at any new release, you inevitably bring a lifetime of personal biases and preconceptions to the table. But what if you could look at a watch with completely fresh eyes… My youngest son Marc is five-years-old. His principal hobbies include bike riding, Nerf-gun shooting and mayhem.  … ContinuedThe post We asked a 5 year-old to pick the best watches of 2023… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Meet the Spaceman: A Popular Fashion Watch of the 1960s and 1970s that was Almost Forgotten in a Drawer – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 2, 2023

Meet the Spaceman: A Popular Fashion Watch of the 1960s and 1970s that was Almost Forgotten in a Drawer – Reprise

Launched in 1969, the Catena/Zeno Spaceman is special thanks to its funky design as well as its its fiberglass and chrome case. The Spaceman’s blend of ovals, curves, and straight lines was just right for that groovy time in fashion, touching a nerve in a hip watch-buying public. It was a polarizing watch: people generally either hated it or loved it at first sight, and remains so today. Here is the brief history of this fun vintage watch.

Chopard unveil five new Mille Miglia chronographs for the 2023 edition of the historic race Time+Tide
Chopard unveil five new Mille Jul 2, 2023

Chopard unveil five new Mille Miglia chronographs for the 2023 edition of the historic race

Born in the days when drivers didn’t wear seatbelts, in hopes of being ejected from the burning wreckages of their petrol-filled bathtubs on wheels, the Mille Miglia was an iconic open-road endurance race. Much like the similar Mexian Carrera Panamericana, the Italian grand touring spectacle claimed many lives throughout its history, eventually ceasing operation in … ContinuedThe post Chopard unveil five new Mille Miglia chronographs for the 2023 edition of the historic race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition? Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Jul 1, 2023

VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition?

Everyone was expecting Rolex to finally show some love to the Cellini line which, although by no means weak, just lost appeal as time went on. Not many expected the crown to show up to Watches & Wonders 2023 with a brand new collection however, which the Perpetual 1908 is the founding member of. As … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: Is the Rolex Perpetual 1908 a Calatrava-killing value proposition? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The slender new King Seiko collection channels the retro elegance of the 1965 original Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Jul 1, 2023

The slender new King Seiko collection channels the retro elegance of the 1965 original

The ‘60s were an important era for Seiko, as it saw the introduction of both the Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines. Originally launched to promote healthy inter-company competition with Grand Seiko, the King Seiko name made its debut in 1961, and in 1965, the iconic KSK model was released. The luxe-leaning Grand Seiko of … ContinuedThe post The slender new King Seiko collection channels the retro elegance of the 1965 original appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces Cartier Jun 30, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Crash in Platinum

Cartier has returned to its most iconic, yet most elusive, design with the Crash London New Bond Street Exclusive. The new launch mirrors the Crash release of 2019 by keeping it exclusive to the New Bond Street boutique in London, only this time the case is in platinum. Initial thoughts A new Cartier Crash is always worth taking note of, especially when its design pays close attention to the original of 1967. While the brand has been noted for diligently recreating the looks from its past, none of them come close in terms of excitement among collectors than the Crash.  Following up the yellow gold version of four years ago with this platinum model was a smart move by the brand, and has put clear thought into how to execute it. Notably, the vintage “London” Crash was never available in platinum so this is not so much a remake as a reinterpretation of history – one but executed very well. From the form of the case to the layout of the dial and hands, Cartier has done their utmost to respect what Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emerson had first imagined and besides a perhaps slightly questionable placement of “Swiss made”, they appear to have done a fantastic job.  Not only has the dial design been slightly modified, but the brand has also updated the movement to use the cal. 1917 MC, perhaps an upgrade in terms of it being in house, though the construction of the cal. 1917 MC is not as sophisticated as the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement it replaces. Cartier has price...

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 30, 2023

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois”

Now best known for the Vingt-8 chronometer, particularly when combined with its exemplary and versatile guilloche work, Voutilainen also produces high complicated watches. Though the brand now largely focuses on the time-only Vingt-8, it once completed striking watches on a fairly regular basis. One of the best examples of such a chiming masterpiece is the Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” that was delivered a decade ago, when Voutilainen was a far smaller operation centred on its founder, Kari Voutilainen. This unique repeater is now available at Phillips Perpetual in London. Quintessential Voutilainen Before he found the success that led to the current three-year waitlist for the Vingt-8, Mr Voutilainen made perhaps two dozen repeaters (compared to hundreds of time-only watches), all equipped with refinished vintage ebauches. Most were decimal repeaters that struck the time in ten-minute blocks, as opposed to the quarter strikes of convention repeaters, making time telling more intuitive. “L’Esprit du Bois” is one of the most elaborate of Mr Voutilainen’s chiming watches. Delivered in 2013, the watch combines a decimal repeater and second time zone display, all presented in the quintessential Voutilainen manner with a case featuring teardrop lugs and a dial finished with a variety of guilloche patterns. But it is distinguished by something special: the hinged case back is entirely relief engraved and enamelled with a motif drawn from Greek mythology. ...

Head into the Holiday Weekend with a Cocktail Themed Limited Edition from Maen and seconde/seconde Worn & Wound
Maen Jun 30, 2023

Head into the Holiday Weekend with a Cocktail Themed Limited Edition from Maen and seconde/seconde

Do you enjoy medium sized integrated bracelet sports watches? How about classic American cocktails? Are visual puns a thing you’d like to see more of when you check the time? Well, boy do we have a watch for you. Maen is the latest brand to collaborate with seconde/seconde/, Romaric André’s whimsical, joke filled, and increasingly popular design house that manages to find unexpected angles and humor in all kinds of watches. The platform he’s playing with here is Maen’s excellent Manhattan 37, the highly architectural, 70s inspired integrated bracelet sports watch measuring, you guessed it, 37mm across. For this limited edition, seconde/seconde/ is taking inspiration from the classic Manhattan cocktail, finding space for include his signature wit in unlikely places.  Let’s start with the obvious: the dial is meant to evoke the color of a Manhattan, traditionally made with rye whiskey and red vermouth, it has a distinctive red hue. The Manhattan 37 already has a very cool execution that features a Geneva stripe finish, so adding a fun color here is a must, and the finishing technique causes a natural shift in the tone – Maen says it will range from a deep burgundy to purple depending on the lighting. The second hand features a pixelated representation of a Maraschino cherry, the Manhattan’s traditional garnish in André’s signature style, and as a final touch, you’ll see a “% vol” designation next to the “37” within the watch’s standard dial tex...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The 62 Only Watch 2023 lots have been unveiled – these are 10 standouts Time+Tide
Tudor FXD watches Jun 30, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The 62 Only Watch 2023 lots have been unveiled – these are 10 standouts

As far as weekly watch news goes, this week really packed in a lot of excitement. A new “Summer Blue” Omega Seamaster 75th Anniversary Collection, new carbon-cased Tudor FXD watches, and the unveiling of the 2023 Only Watch charity auction lots to raise money for research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD) and related genetic diseases. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The 62 Only Watch 2023 lots have been unveiled – these are 10 standouts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Jun 29, 2023

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar

Only Watch, the biennial charity auction that finds an increasingly diverse set of brands offering one-off watches to the highest bidder, is back this year, and we’re starting to get word of the sale’s participants and the watches they’ll have on offer. You might recall that in 2021, we saw Baltic participate for the first time, which, in our opinion, not only elevated their status considerably, but the entire microbrand scene as well. For those of us who have followed and supported small, enthusiast driven brands for years, there was a certain amount of gratification in seeing one of our favorites getting worldwide, mainstream attention alongside the likes of Tudor and Patek Philippe. It was even better when we saw that Only Watch didn’t fundamentally change what Baltic stands for as a brand – they still make reasonably priced and attractive watches for hardcore collector and enthusiast types. This year’s slate of Only Watch participants features another small brand that we’ve been paying very close attention to since they first came on the scene just two years ago. Furlan Marri’s Only Watch debut caps what can only be described as a meteoric rise for the brand, and the somewhat mind blowing watch they’ve unveiled is genuinely unexpected and exciting.  Before we get into the weeds on the new Furlan Marri perpetual calendar – yes, their perpetual calendar – let’s back up a minute, because it’s important to understand the short history of the bran...

Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Farer x Worn & Wound Jun 29, 2023

Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition

When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. When it came time to shoot the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition, we decided, quickly, to turn to Farer’s own ambassador, Amy Heynes (née Shore) for lifestyle photography. An incredibly talented and stylized photographer, her specialty is in the automotive industry. In fact, she co-owns Willam Heynes Cars with her husband (William Heynes, also the model in the shoot), which specializes in Jaguar preservation and restoration. The post Working With Photographer Amy Shore on the Launch of the Farer x Worn & Wound Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Jun 29, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique

One of the most anticipated creations by an independent watchmaker at Only Watch 2023 is the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. Almost certainly amongst the most valuable watches in the sale, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch in stainless steel containing a Faraday cage to protect the against magnetism. It is the third timepiece created by Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia, for the biennial charity auction. Though the specifics of the watch remain under wraps, a few facts have been revealed in the announcement. The dial will be “sector” or “scientific” style, while the case is stainless steel and made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Classically proportioned in the typical Rexhep Rexhepi style, the case measures 38 mm by 9.95 mm. Interestingly, the case features a double back comprised of an inner sapphire back and an outer back that can be unscrewed by the wearer. And most importantly, the movement is a new construction. While the Chronomètre Contemporain I and Chronomètre Contemporain II that Rexhep Rexhepi created for past instalments of Only Watch were variants of standard models, the RRCA is equipped with a calibre developed from the ground up for the model. The RRCCII calibre inside the timepiece made for Only Watch 2021 While I can’t say any more about the watch, I can state that the RRCA deftly combines historical inspiration drawn from the magnetism-resistant watches made by the great watchmakers of Gen...

Tudor Reveals Set of New FXD Watches For Alinghi Red Bull Racing Worn & Wound
Tudor Reveals Set Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Reveals Set of New FXD Watches For Alinghi Red Bull Racing

In a surprise move this week Tudor has revealed a pair of new FXD watches in honor of their partnership with the two time America’s Cup winning Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. To date, we’ve made due with the single FXD reference which was released in late 2020, and it’s a platform we’ve been thoroughly impressed with for reasons you can read about in our in-depth review right here. Today, the FXD gets a pair of stablemates in the form of the Pelagos FXD and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition”, which introduce a new material to the mix, along with, for the first time ever for the collection, complications.  The Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition FXD watches continue to make use of the defining feature eluded to in the FXD name, which is a fixed lug bar design, meaning passthrough straps only. Tudor have made a new hook and loop, or “self-gripping fastening system”-equipped Julien Faure strap in blue and red for these new references in a nod to the red accents found in the racing team’s colors. Along the same lines, the bezel of each of these FXD watches has been rendered in matte black. The time-only reference is of course familiar, sharing the same dimensions as the original FXD with a trim 42mm case that wears quite flat. The black bezel is a handsome addition to the matte blue dial, which gains red accents in the seconds hand, as well as the Pelagos label at the bottom of the dial, similar to what we see in the Pelagos 39. This watch uses ...

I checked out the quirky Mancheront Pacer and its unique features Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2023

I checked out the quirky Mancheront Pacer and its unique features

With more and more microbrands on the rise, the idea of creating your own brand is something that’s become easier to stomach, whether through a melange of ready-made parts or a single factory custom-making an entire design. The path that Dilon Wong, the founder of Mancheront, took to get there, was pretty much the polar … ContinuedThe post I checked out the quirky Mancheront Pacer and its unique features appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Zodiac started the funky colour trend Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Jun 28, 2023

How Zodiac started the funky colour trend

The deeper history of dive watches will always be murky, especially on the topic of first-time achievements when simultaneous development had countless brands competing. When it comes to trend-setting however, there are some pretty obvious titans which spread their influence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner were both released in 1953, cementing a significant … ContinuedThe post How Zodiac started the funky colour trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition Time+Tide
Richard Mille goes head Jun 28, 2023

Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition

Richard Mille and the Le Mans Classic have joined forces since 2002 While celebrating 100 years of Le Mans, the RM 72-01 LMC is limited to 150 pieces The ’16’ on the 24-hour counter is underlined in red, a nod to the traditional start time of the endurance race When the 24 Hours of Le … ContinuedThe post Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) Time+Tide
Omega celebrates 75 years Jun 27, 2023

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!)

A gradient of 11 new “Summer Blue” configurations for the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster that darken as the depth rating increases Each model has a commemorative caseback with the signature Poseidon, trident, and two seahorses motif The previously discontinued Ploprof returns to the catalogue with a new resized monobloc case There are countless brands … ContinuedThe post Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB

Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated.  Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph.  Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...

The Windup Watch Fair Returns to Chicago at Venue West Worn & Wound
Jun 26, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair Returns to Chicago at Venue West

After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. Returning to Venue West, in the heart of the Windy City, we’re excited to reconnect with the energy and excitement that makes The Second City such an integral hub among our community. First time attendees will find unique opportunities to explore the latest timepieces and connect with fellow horology aficionados. Now in its ninth year, Windup Watch Fair has become a must-attend event for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and industry professionals. The Fair showcases a wide range of watches, from independent microbrands to well-established manufacturers, offering attendees an unparalleled chance to discover and experience a diverse selection of timepiece and, new this year, regional EDC heavyweights like Oak Street Bootmakers Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612, in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, provides the perfect backdrop for the Windup Watch Fair. The location is easily accessible for both local visitors and those traveling from out of town and a perfect jumping off point to explore Chicago’s rich history. We’re already building our lists of nearby restaurants, nightlife, and other Chicago mainstays to visit during off-fair hours.  As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. We’re able to offer this open access with the support o...

The Marathon Navigator In Steel Worn & Wound
Marathon Jun 26, 2023

The Marathon Navigator In Steel

I have a soft spot for asymmetrical cases. Whether it’s my trusty Speedmaster or my own personal resin-cased Marathon Navigator, something about the offset case shape just hits different. Today, I’m excited to take a look at one of Marathon’s newest offerings - the Navigator in stainless steel. Upon trying it on for the first time, it just immediately clicked. This watch feels like it was made to be rendered in the matte stainless steel. This Canadian-designed and Swiss-manufactured watch is part of a solid lineup of MIL SPEC watches that are built to withstand the toughest conditions. Originally designed for paratroopers, pilots, and law enforcement, the Navigator is a no-frills watch that’s built like a tank. One of the best parts about it is how it wears, it wears deceptively small for its measured size due to the handsome asymmetrical case. Let’s take a closer look at this tough offering from Marathon that I believe makes an excellent everyday watch. We’ll also be making some comparisons between the stainless steel version and the original resin case.  But first, let’s get a brief history lesson on this MIL SPEC watch and how it came to be. The military specification “MIL-W-46374” is used by the US military to address their specific needs for wrist watches. Originally developed in 1964 during the Vietnam War, this spec has undergone several different revisions, currently sitting at Rev. G, which it’s remained at since 1999. The original spec lack...

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch Time+Tide
Jun 26, 2023

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch

With each new release of a watch, for every person that comments they are ready to swipe their credit card, there are three more criticising everything they think is wrong with the watch. In a world where more people are consuming watch media and buying watches, many consider themselves connoisseurs of watch design. With prices … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: Watchfinder & Co’s Andrew Morgan tells the story of the collector-made Lyrique watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.