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Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets Fratello
Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets

As a die-hard collector of vintage watches, I’ve grown to appreciate the right accessories to pair with my treasured pieces. Straps are a great option, and we’ve devoted plenty of articles to reviewing them. However, an appropriate bracelet is the chef’s kiss. The problem is that authentic bracelets are difficult to find and are often […] Visit Hands-On With The New Gold-Plated Forstner Bracelets to read the full article.

The Evergreens – The History of The Citizen Aqualand, The Diving Icon Celebrating 40 Years Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms State Jun 3, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of The Citizen Aqualand, The Diving Icon Celebrating 40 Years

Traditional dive watches have never waned in popularity, despite modern diving computers and even smart watches pushing them into technical obsolescence. The dawn of early divers in the 1950s is defined by two brands and two watches – the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. State of the art at the time and able […]

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Jun 3, 2025

H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch

Just when you thought watches associated with F1 teams were getting stale and predictable, here comes H. Moser with a release that I definitely did not have on my bingo card. There are actually two releases here, both introduced last week as part of the brand’s partnership with the Alpine Motorsports F1 team. Both part of the Streamliner family, one is a skeletonized chronograph (which is cool, but not exactly the most exotic thing in the indie watch world) and the other is…a smart watch. Yes, a Streamliner smart watch from the brand that started their recent rise to prominence by, basically, trolling the most popular wearable ever created. The loose concept here is that this pair of watches consists of a “Drivers Edition” Streamliner as well as a corresponding “Mechanics Edition.” We’ll start with the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition, a “measuring instrument” designed specifically for an F1 team and the highly specialized work they do to support their drivers. The watch does a nice job of evoking what we’ve come to know as the Moser aesthetic, with a blue lacquer dial for the time at 12:00, surrounded by black when the watch is on standby mode (Moser of course loves a deep and dark black). But that black negative space is actually a screen, and when digital functions are activated the watch effectively transforms into something we simply aren’t used to seeing from high end independent brands.  The Mechanics Edition is powered by a movement made ...

Introducing – The new IWC Pilot Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert Monochrome
IWC Pilot Automatic 41 TOP Jun 3, 2025

Introducing – The new IWC Pilot Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert

IWC Schaffhausen continues to expand its “Colours of Top Gun” series with the latest Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert. This new iteration introduces a compact, sand-toned variant to the series, a colour normally found in large watches. Drawing inspiration from the arid terrain surrounding the U.S. Navy’s China Lake testing facility and the […]

The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise Worn & Wound
Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 2, 2025

The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise

For the sixth year in a row, Oris has launched a watch on the anniversary of their founding. The Hölstein Edition watches, which debut each year on June 1, are an opportunity for Oris to celebrate their heritage, release a watch that’s perhaps a little outside the box, and have some fun in the process. Previous Hölstein Editions include an Aquis diver with a bold purple dial, the revival of a classic complication, and, most recently, an unusual and very cool blacked out edition of their classic Divers Sixty-FIve. A throughline through these watches is the appearance of the Oris Bear, and for this year’s Hölstein Edition we get a particularly fun cameo from the brand’s mascot via a fully lumed dial. This year’s watch is a fresh take on the ProPilot, Oris’s contemporary, aviation inspired watch. For this limited edition (as with previous Hölstein Editions, this one is limited to 250 pieces) the stainless steel case has been given an aggressive black DLC treatment. It’s still, of course, unmistakably a ProPilot, with the hallmark fluted bezel and the gently curved 41mm case.  This is much more than a blacked out ProPilot, though. Oris is having a lot of fun with the dial, giving it a full lume treatment that appears white in the daylight and glows green in the dark when the luminescent material is activated. The Arabic numerals, dial text, and hands are all in matte black, which makes the dial easy to read in both well lit situations and, importantly, in the ...

Insight: The Overcoil Hairspring, From Breguet to Phillips SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 2, 2025

Insight: The Overcoil Hairspring, From Breguet to Phillips

While the invention of the spiral hairspring by Christiaan Huygens in 1675 kickstarted a revolution in terms of portable precision timekeeping, the concept was far from fully developed. It was arguably only with the later invention of the overcoil hairspring that the ideal oscillator in portable watches emerged. For many years horologists - theoreticians and artisans alike - worked to perfect the balance-hairspring assembly to optimise its performance, notably in terms of isochronism. True isochronism became a sort of holy grail for watchmakers all around the world, who all sought to ameliorate the inherent quirks of the sprung oscillator. The recent Breguet Soucription features an overcoil hairspring of non-magnetic Nivachron alloy The need for end curves The quest for isochronism was a true challenge for horologists. Isochronism is the ability of the balance-hairspring assembly the have the same period of oscillation for small and large amplitudes alike. In other words, the balance oscillation takes the same period of time regardless of the degree travelled. This is very important, since a balance usually swings with high amplitude with a fully wound mainspring and then runs at progressively smaller amplitude as the barrel unwinds. As a timepiece is required to keep good time regardless of  its winding state, an oscillator whose period is independent from its amplitude is needed. (Another solution to this is to optimise the energy delivery from the mainspring with a...

Highlights: Phillips NYWA XII SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 1518 Jun 2, 2025

Highlights: Phillips NYWA XII

As the Hong Kong auctions have wrapped, we move to the final sales of the spring season in New York City. Phillips will offer a healthy mix of new and old, common and rare, across 144 lots. The sale includes many of the expected top-of-the-line offerings, with the headline lot a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold, and staples like a pair of ref. 5004s. But there are plenty of interesting watches to be down catalog too, including some fresh faces and value buys. Highlights include the best of English watchmaking made by Charles Frodsham a century apart, the auction debut of American independent Keaton Myrick, an unusual F.P. Journe Résonance, along with a Cartier pocket watch made by complications specialist THA. We round up these and a few more from The New York Watch Auction: XII, which takes place from June 7-8, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. Lot 11 – A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “2022 Best of Show, Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este” Since 2012, A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a classic car shown that takes place in spring on the picturesque shores of Lake Como. Each year, the owner of the event’s best car is presented with a unique Lange watch. While past winners have received a fairly conventional Lange 1 Time Zone, the brand upgraded the prize in recent years to a striking 1815 Chronograph. In 2022, the winner was Andrew Pisker with a Bugatti 57 S from 1937. He received th...

Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs Fratello
Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs Last Jun 1, 2025

Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs

Last year, Citizen debuted a series of Super Titanium chronographs with integrated bracelets. The watches were received well for their looks and affordability. Since then, the brand has formally changed the names of these chronographs to Zenshin Senkei. Four more references now join the collection, but as we’ll see, new colors are only a part […] Visit Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 Fratello
Grand Seiko Kiri” SBGW323 Welcome Jun 1, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we decided to put the Swiss up against the Japanese, each with a purple-dial stainless steel watch of their own. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a lavender dial represents the Swiss, while the Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 represents the Japanese. Both came out during Watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender” Vs. Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial Fratello
May 31, 2025

Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial

The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 is a limited edition of just nine watches, and it’s the result of bringing together one Slovak and two Czech watch-loving parties. Young Slovak watch brand Biatec started its operations in 2016. Chronoshop has been in business since 2007, and journalist Jan Lidmaňský has been writing about watches for 20 […] Visit Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial to read the full article.

Seiko Introduced Four New References to the 5 Sports Series, and Almost No One is Talking About Them Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduced Four New References May 30, 2025

Seiko Introduced Four New References to the 5 Sports Series, and Almost No One is Talking About Them

Seiko, through their Seiko 5 Sports line, recently unveiled a watch that, five or six years ago, probably would have broken the watch internet. The SKX Series is a collection within the Seiko 5 Sports lineup that directly references the SKX line of Seiko divers, which are perhaps the most iconic of all enthusiast focused watches. The SKX Series under the Seiko 5 Sports banner is not new, but this new quartet of divers feels like the most direct callback to the classic SKX007 and SKX009 yet.  When the SKX watches were discontinued, it was the talk of the watch internet. And the (re)introduction of the Seiko 5 Sports line, as a pseudo-replacement, also drove a lot of conversation, much of it dismissive, or yearning for the “old days” of Seiko when the truly affordable SKX watches (real dive watches, we were always reminded) could be purchased easily by any budding collector. These new watches which connect directly to that SKX lineage say a lot about the state of the brand, and their reception to this point, I think, says even more about the community.  Before we get too deep into the meta-commentary of what these watches mean in enthusiast circles, let’s quickly get some basic objective stats out of the way. The new references (the SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87 and SRPL89, which feature blue, black, yellow and orange dials, respectively) all measure identically to the Seiko 5 Sports watches which debuted back in 2019. That means cases coming in at 42.5mm in diameter, 13.9m...

First Look – Bell & Ross Releases the New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline Monochrome
Bell & Ross Releases May 30, 2025

First Look – Bell & Ross Releases the New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline

Bell & Ross, with its extensive range of highly graphic pilots’ watches inspired by cockpit instruments, consolidated its identity with the BR-01 and BR-03 references (and subsequent derivations). Moving from high-altitude missions to underwater adventures, in 2017, Bell & Ross adapted its archetypal “circle in a square” aesthetic to create the BR-03 Diver, a 300m […]

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Souscription Breguet got May 30, 2025

Up Close: Breguet Classique Souscription

Breguet got off to a good start for its 250th anniversary with the Classique Souscription, which despite being not an entirely new model in technical terms, is arguably the best watch the brand has launched in years, perhaps reflecting the influence of a new chief executive. Powered by a calibre based on the longstanding Tradition movement, the one-handed Classique Souscription marries an atypical (for Breguet) 20th century case with a dial inspired by 19th century pocket watches – resulting in a surprisingly coherent creation that still feels quintessentially Breguet. Initial thoughts I was pleasantly surprised by the Classique Souscription. Breguet managed to take a familiar model and transform it into something different and appealing. The brand didn’t manage to do the same with the second anniversary model, which is essentially a rehash of the Tradition but with an enamel dial. Sized just right, the Classique Souscription feels like it was conceived by an enthusiast with knowledge of vintage watches; the red leather-covered presentation box underlines that. The design is simple overall, but enhanced with details like a sharply finished single hand and “secret signature” engraved the old fashion way. The form of the case is clearly early to mid 20th century, while the dial evokes the original Souscription pocket watch. Although the case and dial styles are 150 years apart, they complement each other almost perfectly; the result still looks very much like a Breg...

Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref May 30, 2025

Hands On: Rolex Daytona “Turquoise Blue” Ref. 126518LN

At Watches & Wonders 2025, all eyes were on Rolex. But the polarising Land-Dweller grabbed most of the headlines, relegating new versions of existing models, including the mighty Cosmograph Daytona Turquoise Blue ref. 126518LN, to second billing. Regardless, the Daytona remains one of the most iconic watches in the industry and its inherent quality makes any new version worthy of a close look. In this case, those who probed the depths of the Rolex catalogue were rewarded with the unusual combination of an 18k yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer “Stella” dial. (And those lucky enough would have seen the “off-catalogue” Daytona ref. 126538TBR with an actual turquoise stone dial and diamond-set case.) Initial thoughts Let’s just say this was not love at first sight. I initially found this new colourway overly garish, but I am a sucker for turquoise, whether natural stone or, in this case, lacquer, so the look has grown on me over time. I think I’d have preferred a different treatment for the sub-dials, which to my eye dull the vibrancy of the turquoise, but this is a subjective critique of an objectively well-made watch. Dial colour aside, the new Daytona benefits from the model’s 60th anniversary updates rolled out two years ago, including the gold rim for the ceramic bezel. The case offers roughly ideal proportions for a sporty chronograph, 40 mm in diameter and around 12 mm thick. It also comes equipped with the brand’s rubberised Oysterflex bracelet, ...