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Detailed hands-on review with video: the new Candaux DC12 MaveriK
We were in Le Solliat, up in the Valée de Joux last November, and met up with David Candaux. Here is our hands on comprehensive review of the DC12 MaveriK.
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Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea
What We Know Bradley Taylor, a Canadian independent watchmaker working out of a 1,000-square-foot workshop in North Vancouver, has released the Ardea, his third watch and first with an in-house movement. Taylor, a rising talent in the space, trained in Le Locle under Henrik Korpela, earned a Patek Philippe Level II service certification in Geneva, and produced two sold-out series before beginning work on the Ardea in late 2023. The Ardea is offered in stainless steel or platinum 950 and measures 37.8mm in diameter with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 10.9mm, including the crystals. The sapphire caseback is very slightly domed for wrist comfort, and the watch is rated to 5 ATM. The dial is 925 sterling silver, engine-turned on a rose engine that Taylor estimates is roughly 120 years old, and he restored it over three months. The pattern is a 36-scallop rosette with a progressive phase shift between each concentric pass, producing a characterful swirling texture. After the engraving, the dial is depletion-gilded, a silversmithing process that involves repeated heating and acid treatment until the dial's surface is pure silver. It is then sealed with Zapon lacquer. The text and markings are pad-printed on a Tampoprint machine that Taylor also restored himself. The applied numerals are machined from solid platinum and hand-polished to a spherical shape. The dial lettering and wordmark were designed by Ian Brignell, a Toronto typographer whose work includes the Paramou...
Monochrome
First Look – The Mesmerizing New Versions of the Henri Grandjean Magician
At the start of the year, an illustrious historic name returned to the world of watchmaking: Henri Grandjean. Once renowned for its highly precise chronometers and intricate pocket watches, Henri Grandjean was a master watchmaker from Le Locle, Switzerland. His work is on display in some of the best watchmaking museums around the world, including […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Tissot Pinarello Special Edition - An Asymmetric, Race-Bike-Inspired, Carbon-Cased Watch
Le Locle is a special watchmaking town in Switzerland. Treviso in Italy is special too. It’s the home of Pinarello, a manufacturer of high-performance race bikes. And that’s a very successful brand. No fewer than 15 Tour de France titles were won on a Pinarello, for instance. The Tissot Pinarello Special Edition is a watch […] Visit Introducing: The Tissot Pinarello Special Edition - An Asymmetric, Race-Bike-Inspired, Carbon-Cased Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Return of the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater
Angelus is a historical Swiss watch brand founded in 1891 in Le Locle by Albert and Gustav Stolz, known for technically ambitious and award-winning chronographs, multi-complication watches and even chiming models. After a long period of dormancy following the quartz crisis, the brand was revived in 2011. Tapping into its rich archive, Angelus has gathered […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” Review
Before we get into my review of the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye, let's get some context about the brand out of the way. Oris traces its foundation to 1904, when two natives of the Swiss watchmaking town of Le Locle, Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, opened their watch factory in the German-speaking Swiss town of Hölstein. Cattin and Christian named their company “Oris” after the Orisbach tributary, a brook near the factory.A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly popular wristwatches, Oris enjoyed a long period of growth and expansion throughout the following decades and even made its own movements. Losing its independence during the consolidation years of the Quartz Crisis, Oris regained it in the 1980s, when a management buyout transformed the company and solidified its mission to make only mechanical watches going forward. Today, Oris is well established as a staple for value-conscious collectors of Swiss-made watches. While much of its modern output is devoted to sport-oriented timepieces, like the popular Aquis and Divers (formerly Divers Sixty-Five) diving watches, the brand’s most recognizable and emblematic collection is the Big Crown Pointer Date, which has been a mainstay of the brand’s portfolio - and in constant production - since 1938. It was the first watch with a date indication displayed via a central hand on an outer scale, and it took the other part of its model name from its signature design element - an oversiz...
Monochrome
Introducing – Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions
Geneva-based independent brand Akhor presented its inaugural Le Temps en Équilibre collection in 2025, built around a patented dual-disc display system, and it was immediately recognised for its innovative dial concept and proprietary movement. The new Lumière Blanche editions expand the concept with a new artistic direction, where white becomes the central design element. The […]
Teddy Baldassarre
How Tudor Watches are ACTUALLY Made
In honor of Tudor's 100th Anniversary, we are visiting the brand in Le Locle for something that's never been seen before: a look behind the curtain to see the entire supply chain that supports the production of a Tudor watch. Here we will get a look at how everything from the movement, the dial, the case, and the brace
Fratello
Introducing: Eight Curated Reverso Watches From The 1930s
Oldies but goldies. Reverso watches from the 1930s comprise Jaeger-LeCoultre’s fifth capsule collection of The Collectibles. As you can see, this time, the focus is squarely on the brand’s iconic model, the reversible Reverso, originally launched in 1931. All eight watches were fully authenticated and restored in the brand’s restoration workshop in Le Sentier, Switzerland. […] Visit Introducing: Eight Curated Reverso Watches From The 1930s to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – A Duo of Audemars Piguet´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars, Powered by the Latest Calibre 7139
A perpetual calendar is a complication very much dear to Audemars Piguet. Since the mid-20th century, the manufacture in Le Brassus has offered many variations on how this “celestial” mechanism could be presented, displayed and used. From the world’s first leap-year perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1955, to the ultra-thin automatic QPs of the late 1970s, […]
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s new Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is peak modern TAG Heuer
Following 2024's Monaco Split-Seconds, TAG Heuer finally brings its impressive rattrapante chrono to the Carrera - and it's a stunner.The post TAG Heuer’s new Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is peak modern TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Zenith Introduces Six New Defy Models During LVMH Watch Week
For Zenith, the start of 2026 is all about the Defy collection. Now, as a big fan of the brand, I found this move surprising. The Le Locle-based watchmaker celebrated its 150th anniversary last year, and the commemorative releases showed the great diversity of styles within Zenith’s collection. I suppose I expected the first new […] Visit Zenith Introduces Six New Defy Models During LVMH Watch Week to read the full article.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Debuts Track-Ready Carrera Split-Seconds
Having recently given the Monaco a rattrapante makeover, TAG Heuer has unveiled the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, the first-ever split-seconds chronograph in the history of the storied Carrera line-up. The watch combines the brand’s contemporary ‘glassbox’ case design with the Vaucher-derived TH81-01 movement, the only split-seconds calibre in production capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. Built of grade 5 titanium inside and out, the Carrera Split-Seconds is positioned as both a technical showcase and a halo product for the brand. Initial thoughts It’s more than a little surprising that the Carrera, one of the most storied names in sports chronographs, has never been made in a split-seconds variant until now. In the vintage era, many of Heuer’s peers introduced split-seconds chronographs with movements sourced from Valjoux, which also supplied the ebauches for the Carrera, which suggests the technology was well within reach. That said, the Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is arguably worth the wait, marrying the contemporary glassbox case design with the one of the only split-seconds chronograph calibres capable of tenth-of-a-second resolution. It’s a coherent product in more ways than one, carrying on the brand’s history of commercialising third-party calibres in design-forward, performance-oriented watches. In terms of design, the Carrera Split-Seconds feels more refined than the Monaco Split-Seconds, avoiding the superfluous “rattrapante” a...
Monochrome
Introducing – Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Limited Edition SRPM07
With its 5 Sports collection, the brand’s accessible range that comprises almost infinite styles, Seiko isn’t shy of creating bold models and teaming up with unexpected partners. Recently, we’ve seen models inspired by Bruce Lee, Peanuts or Mooneys. There was even a pair of Pepsi-bezel watches made with… Pepsi! Now, the Seiko 5 Sports SKX […]
Time+Tide
Cinephile, film buff, or otherwise movie obsessed? Here are some of the best watches in cinema
From Morse code Murphs to McQueen's Monaco, these are some of the best watches for movie nerds to look into.The post Cinephile, film buff, or otherwise movie obsessed? Here are some of the best watches in cinema appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At
You’re familiar with Max Büsser and his friends. The creations MB&F; produces are incredible, wondrous, and imaginative, but they’re also out of reach for the majority of watch enthusiasts. Let me introduce you to Schaefer & Companions, a brand recently founded in Le Locle that positions itself as an artistic platform. Christophe Schaefer, the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie
When you think of Blancpain, you probably see a mental image of the Fifty Fathoms, Bathyscaphe, or perhaps even a Villeret model. At least, those were the watches I had in mind when the folks at Blancpain invited us over to Le Brassus and see their latest creation a few weeks ago. This video is […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie to read the full article.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s Split-Seconds Goes High Tech with Laser Sintering
TAG Heuer flexes its research and development muscles again with the performance-oriented Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1. Using the iconic square chronograph as a base, the brand’s engineers took inspiration from its Formula 1 partnership to explore new manufacturing techniques for this 30-piece limited edition that boasts an ultra-light, hollowed-out 18k gold case fabricated with laser additive manufacturing. Initial thoughts The original Monaco from Heuer remains one of the more enduring chronograph designs, with the storied past and distinctive square form. It is refreshing to see TAG Heuer using it as a base for newer, technologically-oriented pieces. This new limited edition takes the already-supercharged crystallised titanium split-seconds released earlier this year and reimagines the square case. The result is a honeycomb-patterned case that is surprisingly lightweight for the size and material. The complex and layered construction of the Air 1, here in an exploded view. The team at TAG Heuer employed a new additive manufacturing technique with the goal of a sturdy yet remarkably light chronograph. Keeping in mind that gold is a dense (thus heavy) metal, making a watch that qualifies as “lightweight” is usually incompatible with including the precious alloy. Here the engineers came up with a way to reduce the volume of gold used, while keeping the components’ sturdiness intact. The timepiece itself can be a little much in terms of styling, with the ...
Fratello
Introducing: Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles
You should have been there. The Yew Tree Ball (Le Bal des Ifs) was a masquerade ball held in 1745 by King Louis XV of France after the wedding between his son - the Dauphin Louis - and Infanta Maria Teresa Rafaela of Spain. The ball took place in the gilded Hall of Mirrors (Galerie […] Visit Introducing: Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles to read the full article.
Fratello
Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World?
Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary by introducing plenty of novelties, and they’re not watches. The brand from Le Brassus is also presenting new movements. The latest perpetual calendars now feature an ingenious crown, for instance, but the biggest news of the year is undoubtedly the launch of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding […] Visit Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Quest of Time
On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions
Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...
SJX Watches
David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK
After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F; HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....
SJX Watches
In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation
TAG Heuer is marking the rollout of its new-and-improved, and in-house, carbon hairsprings – timed to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the hairspring’s invention – with a pair of chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. More than just two new watches, the TH-Carbonspring is a notable technical achievement that might promise an entirely new generation of TAG Heuer movements equipped with oscillators that boast all of the advantages of silicon, but with added robustness. Protected by several patents, TH-Carbonspring is also the result of a fascinating process of research and development to overcome a surprising problem. Kitted out in carbon composite dials and cases, the two watches are centred on TAG Heuer’s latest-generation carbon-nanocomposite balance springs, with each being a limited edition of just 50 pieces Initial thoughts Both models serve as a launch platform for TAG Heuer’s improved and industrialisation-ready carbon hairspring. While the brand has been flirting with carbon hairsprings since 2019, its use of the technology has been intermittent and on limited scale. TAG Heuer explains previous attempts at carbon springs were not up to the brand’s standards, which is to say the hairsprings did not perform as expected and could not be produced at scale. The new TH-Carbonspring indicates TAG Heuer has perfected the technology to make reliable hairsprings, which m...
Monochrome
First Look – The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite
Released in 2021, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport has been quite a success for the Le Locle-based brand. A versatile sports chronograph with enough arguments, visually and mechanically, to compete with the heavyweights of the category, it has been made in an array of different versions since its introduction. Ranging from classic to bold, we’ve seen […]
SJX Watches
Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship
Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...
Deployant
New: Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Datsun 240Z
Seiko’s trio of Speedtimer x Datsun limited editions-SPB517, SRQ057, and SSC957-pays tribute to the iconic 1971 East African Safari Rally win, with each model channeling the spirit of the Datsun 240Z in distinct ways. Namely, a time-only, a mechanical chronograph and a solar chronograph, the trio provide offers at different price points.
Fratello
An Interview With Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert
The Reverso took a prominent spot during Watches and Wonders 2025. Not only were the new Reverso watches the highlight of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth, but they were also the talk of the town. Earlier this year, before Watches and Wonders, I traveled to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s headquarters in Le Sentier to see the new Reverso collection in […] Visit An Interview With Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Stylish Pequignet Royale Paris 39.5mm Power Reserve-Small Seconds
France’s golden age of horology during the 17th and 18th centuries produced notable figures like Julien Le Roy, Ferdinand Berthoud and Abraham-Louis Breguet. And it’s fair to say that had it not been for the expulsion of French Protestants following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 by King Louis XIV, Swiss watchmaking […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic
Timing is everything when it comes to surfing and buying limited-edition watches. That’s doubly true when it comes to buying a surf-themed LE timepiece. So stop slacking and pay attention because here’s the Zenith × Time & Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic. This is the third and final “Surfer” limited edition, and Zenith […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith × Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic to read the full article.