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Results for Beads of Rice Bracelet

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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos Dual Time Mar 29, 2025

Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time

The Santos de Cartier Dual Time was a hit at Watches & Wonders 2024. So with one week to go until we’re back in Geneva for this year’s fair, why not review the perfect travel companion? What We Love The two-tone grey dial works incredibly well The dark grey alligator leather strap gives the watch a whole new look The versatility of the watch for different occasions What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet (Still) There could have been more contrast in the dial to aid legibility in low light Could lumed numerals make this more of a complete swatch? Overall Score: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 This will be a review with a difference. Normally when one of us at Watch Advice reviews a watch, we try not to review another one that is very similar to it, rather we would opt for another team member to do it and give you their experience with it. After all, we all have different tastes in watches, dress styles and most importantly, wrist size. But, I decided to break the rules a little with this one. I reviewed the Santos de Cartier Large Brown Dial in June last year, but while I was reviewing that, I kept thinking it would be great to have reviewed the new Dual Time as well. So fast-forward almost a year later and we got our hands on the Dual Time thanks to our friends at Cartier and without giving too much away too early, I think it’s better… First Impressions The Santos dual time was one of the major rele...

Enough, Watch Brands! Stop Releasing Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets Fratello
Mar 22, 2025

Enough, Watch Brands! Stop Releasing Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets

Well, I said “please” in the subtitle, so I hope the title didn’t come off too strong. But I do mean every word I wrote. Something snapped after having yet another edgy, sporty watch creation with some very particular and recognizable features show up at Fratello HQ. I couldn’t help but shout, “Stop releasing sports […] Visit Enough, Watch Brands! Stop Releasing Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets to read the full article.

Ressence Introduces the Type 7, their First GMT Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces Mar 20, 2025

Ressence Introduces the Type 7, their First GMT

The latest watch from Ressence represents a number of firsts for the brand. It’s their first watch with a bracelet, the first with a GMT complication, and the first to be marketed somewhat boldly as a tool watch. The conceit behind the Type 7 is express the Ressence look and the brand’s principles in the most rugged possible context. It borrows many ideas and features from previous releases, as you’d expect, but combines them into something genuinely new and fills out a spot in the Ressence catalog that has somewhat surprisingly always been open.  Ressence calls the Type 7 their “sportive-chic GMT,” which is language that we sometimes hear high end brands apply to elegant sports watches derived from a design language that might not traditionally support a true sports watch. “Chic” is often code for integrated bracelet, and expensive, and both of those are (somewhat) true of the Type 7. I imagine there will be straps that can fit this watch, but it was clearly conceived from the start as being made for a bracelet, so we can call it integrated in spirit, at least. Like the case, the bracelet is constructed from titanium, and includes a clasp with micro-adjust built in.  The case measures 41mm in diameter and is 14mm tall. It’s 50 meters water resistant, which is maybe not as robust as some might expect when the “tool watch” label is invoked, but is pretty deep when compared to most other watches in the Ressence catalog, with the notable exception of the...

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand And Blue Fratello
Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand Mar 18, 2025

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand And Blue

Chronoswiss has been on an absolute tear over the past year with novel case designs and movements. Today, the transformative roll-out continues with the most distinct releases yet. The Pulse One models introduce an entirely new integrated case and bracelet design. I’ve been keenly paying attention to the rebirth of Chronoswiss. The brand has introduced […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Pulse One Sand And Blue to read the full article.

In Between Sizes? Spending Time With The Zenith Defy Skyline 36 Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline 36 It Mar 16, 2025

In Between Sizes? Spending Time With The Zenith Defy Skyline 36

It is no secret to regular readers that I like the Zenith Defy line of watches. These are some of the very few integrated-bracelet sports watches with a clear identity. They do not take the design-first approach of, say, a Royal Oak, nor do they strive for elegance like a Laureato. Zenith, instead, pushes into […] Visit In Between Sizes? Spending Time With The Zenith Defy Skyline 36 to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models Another Friday Mar 14, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models

Another Friday, another list! Multiple people on the Fratello team own or have owned a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. One of them is Daan, who has a beautiful Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds. He usually wears it on a leather and canvas Casa Fagliano strap. Last week, though, he swapped it for an Arroway mesh bracelet, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models to read the full article.

What I Discovered on My Visit to The Aristo-Vollmer Factory Worn & Wound
Mar 10, 2025

What I Discovered on My Visit to The Aristo-Vollmer Factory

I recently visited the Aristo Vollmer watch and bracelet manufacturer in the Black Forest town of Pforzheim. Aristo-Vollmer was founded 14 years ago as a merger of two well-known companies from the towns of Birkenfeld and Pforzheim. After three generations in the possession of the founding Epple family, the watch manufacturer Aristo Watch was sold in 1998 to Hansjörg Vollmer, a member of the founding family of watch bracelet manufacturer Vollmer, which has been associated with Aristo since 1927. Hansjörg Vollmer is a grandson of the founder of the metal bracelet manufactory Vollmer (Vollmer, Evvo, New Line), which was founded in 1922 and had maintained business relations with Aristo since 1927.  After World War II, the production of bracelets moved from Birkenfeld to Pforzheim where it is still located next to the Pforzheim train station. Since 2005, the Aristo-Vollmer’s portfolio includes watch brands (Aristo, Aristomatic, Aristocrat, Messerschmitt, Vollmer, Bellana, Aristella, and Erbprinz) as well as bracelets (stainless steel, titanium, carbon), buckles, and deployant clasps. The bracelets are used for its own watch brands, and supplied to retailers, as well as outside the group. Recently Aristo added Klaus Jakob’s Jacques Etoile brand, which we’ll come back to a little later. Hansjörg is an intriguing personality, very driven yet approachable. He is a high-speed fanatic and professionally races BMW motorcycles, and even custom builds them upon request. I att...

First Look - The new Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver SPB511 Limited Edition with Wave Dial Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver Mar 6, 2025

First Look - The new Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver SPB511 Limited Edition with Wave Dial

Last year, Seiko updated one of its best-selling models, the classic, rather compact and vintage-inspired Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver, releasing a new collection with improved mechanics, reduced dimensions, upgraded water-resistance and a new bracelet – all the evolutions can be explored in this in-depth video. As you know, this watch is a modern recreation of […]

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Mar 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold

A boutique exclusive to celebrate the opening of its Menlo Park store in Silicon Valley, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Yellow Gold is perhaps the most extravagant iteration of H. Moser & Cie.’s sports watch to date. This new iteration retains the same dimensions and specifications as its stainless steel predecessor, but is entirely in 18k yellow gold, giving it a somewhat retro feel that complements the “lobster” integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Although the trend for integrated-bracelet sports watches has waned, the Streamliner still stands out as one of the better offerings in the category from independent watchmakers. It combines a distinctive design – rare in the segment – with mostly affordable pricing. At CHF125,000, the new Streamliner Tourbillon is of course not one of the affordable models since it is entirely in gold, but it is a good looking watch. Arguably the only weakness of the model is the increasing number of high-end Streamliner models, both in precious metals and set with gemstones, which make this less unique than it would otherwise be. Boutique exclusive Apart from its all-yellow gold construction, the new Streamliner Tourbillon mirrors its stainless steel predecessor, featuring a 40 mm-wide and 12.1 mm-thick cushion-shaped case. Visually, the focal point is the open-worked dial showcasing a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Faceted baton-style hour markers and hour and minute hands are plated in yellow gold, compleme...

Introducing - The New Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End Yellow Gold Onyx & Platinum Rainbow Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End Yellow Gold Feb 19, 2025

Introducing - The New Louis Vuitton Tambour High-End Yellow Gold Onyx & Platinum Rainbow

The drum-shaped Tambour watch of 2002, Louis Vuitton’s first foray into high-end watchmaking, underwent a sea change in 2023 to become a player in the luxury sports watch sector. Equipped with an integrated bracelet and slimmed down, the new Tambour has appeared in sporty stainless steel and luxurious gold cases. Alongside the release of the […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS Fratello
Chopard L.U.C XPS Good morning Feb 16, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS

Good morning, dear Fratelli. It’s Sunday again, which means we’re pitting two watches against each other. This week, Daan defends the recently released Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026. In the other corner, it’s Thomas with the Chopard L.U.C XPS ref. 61948-5001. That’s right; after the battle of the integrated-bracelet sports watches last week, get […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Vs. Chopard L.U.C XPS to read the full article.

Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Jan 27, 2025

Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel

It predates the Nautilus, Ingenieur, and Overseas and debuted three years after the Royal Oak. So why is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, a very relevant 1970s timepiece, not on the same appreciation level as the other luxurious sports watches with an integrated bracelet? It’s not just the Genta name missing because the 222, the predecessor of […] Visit Hands-On With An Unsung And Humble Hero - The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm In Steel to read the full article.

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Automatic Bulgari’s flagship Jan 24, 2025

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Jan 23, 2025

Reviewing The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye

It’s LVMH Watch Week and TAG Heuer has dropped a new Carrera Chronosprint – the Porsche Rallye in black. We went hands-on with it prior to the launch to see how the new variant handles. What We Love Good size for most wrists and wears slightly smaller than the specs suggest The unique chronograph movement is a bit of fun Vintage styling is a nice touch What We Don’t The bracelet could use more of a taper as well as a quick change option Still no screw-down crown on a 100m sports watch Setting an accurate reference time isn’t as easy due to the small minute track Overall Score 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s no secret that TAG Heuer and Porsche share a long history, both in a shared name, the Carrera, stemming from the Carrera Panamericana race, as well as an association with each other. There have been numerous TAG Heuer x Porsche pieces over the years, but one of the more unique pieces was the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche TAG Heuer, which was developed and launched in late 2023. We didn’t do a hands-on review on this piece at the time, more like a pseudo-review as we did have the watch for the day prior to launch and were able to play with it and see how it looked and wore on the wrist. We also showcased the strange, but cool way it tracks the time on the chronograph, mimicking the original Porsche 911’s time of 0-100km/h in 9.1 seconds using a specially designed snail gear in the chronograph mec...

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...

IWC Releases a Titanium Mark XX in Petronas Colors Worn & Wound
IWC Releases Jan 8, 2025

IWC Releases a Titanium Mark XX in Petronas Colors

IWC holds a special place in my heart. One of my first “ultra-performance” sports watches was an IWC Aquatimer GST on a matching titanium bracelet. This was a 2000-meter water-resistant dive watch that featured a push-down locking unidirectional bezel and a mix of Luminova and tritium luminescence. This was in the late 1990s, and shortly after, I was tasked with reviewing their new IWC TZC UTC Pilot Watch, reference 3251. This model featured a sublime 5-piece bracelet with a push-button easy link removal system still in use today. It also had a display opening on the dial indicating a second time zone. Over the past twenty years, I have had the opportunity to get to know many IWC watches. Last year, one of their releases particularly caught my attention. While their pilot series has generally been quite conservative, they have recently experimented with different dial colors, but nothing like this release. As a Mercedes F1 team sponsor, IWC released a Petronas-AMG-themed Pilot Chronograph featuring bright Petronas green dial accents. This was a 41mm version of their standard day-date chronograph featuring their in-house caliber 69385 automatic movement in a grade 5 titanium case. For 2025, IWC has released the Mark XX Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, essentially a time-and-date version of their previously issued chronograph. This one also features a grade 5 titanium case, but this time with a solid case back. Dimensions are 40mm across the case, with a slender height of only 10....

Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus But Jan 5, 2025

Peter Speake Returns with PS Horology and the Tsuba

Peter Speake has introduced the first watches under his new brand, PS Horology. Long separated from the eponymous brand Speake-Marin, Mr Speake has launched the Tsuba. A significant departure from his earlier designs, the Tsuba’s case and bracelet features flowing, organic lines inspired by tsuba, guards found on traditional Japanese swords that were functional but often exquisitely decorated. The debut of PS Horology, just six days into the new year, is the first significant relaunch of 2025 but probably not the last. Initial thoughts Mr Speake is a significant figure in the early history of independent watchmaking, so the launch of his new brand attracted my attention. While the designs are a departure from what I’m used to seeing from the projects he’s been involved with in the past, they are nonetheless executed with an eye for the details. The Tsuba is all about its case and bracelet design, which is almost organic in feel, calling to mind watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus. But the Tsuba’s design has an altogether different influence, and the similarity is incidental. The unusual shape of the case means it’s difficult to manufacture and finish, with dramatic transitions between brushed convex surfaces and polished concave surfaces. The watch is powered by the well-known Vaucher cal. 5401, a thin, sophisticated calibre that helps the Tsuba achieve its appealing slimness of just under 9 mm. The multi-part dials are also worth close examination. The stan...

Maen Rounds out the Manhattan Collection with a New Larger Case Option Worn & Wound
Maen Rounds out Dec 31, 2024

Maen Rounds out the Manhattan Collection with a New Larger Case Option

Maen Watches, based in Stockholm, Sweden, has been crafting unique timepieces since 2017. With over eight different collections, they have developed a cohesive design language that is instantly recognizable as a Maen watch. Maen entered the integrated bracelet sports watch market about two years ago, although perhaps a tad late. Conversely, they appeared to embrace the resurgence of square(ish) watches early, offering a design that I personally prefer over a more recent controversial cubical release. Although I don’t have any hands-on experience with their watches yet, I have closely followed their development from the beginning and am pretty impressed with their attention to detail and the use of polished facets. This is particularly noteworthy considering their price point. Following the success of their Manhattan 37 Automatic and the Manhattan 39 Ultra-Thin Manual Wind, Maen will launch a new line, the Manhattan 40, with a larger case and automatic caliber.  Two standard models will be available: one in midnight blue and another in copper/salmon. Both will feature vertically elongated Côtes de Genève dials. Additionally, a special-edition model will feature a dial made of green jade stone. Jade is a valued gemstone with a craft history of about 7,000 years, renowned for its toughness and beauty. In China, it rivaled gold and diamonds. The Mayans, Aztecs, and Māori also cherished jade. Ancient Egyptians linked it to love and balance. Today, jade symbolizes goodness...

Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Dec 12, 2024

Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel

Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, with its steel dial, titanium bezel, and mesh bracelet, is wrong. Allow me to explain myself. Historically, combining the 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet that originated a couple of decades before that doesn’t make sense. As a dive watch, it […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Circula Facet Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer amongst others Nov 27, 2024

Hands-On: the Circula Facet

The eagle-eyed watch enthusiast may have noticed a theme shift on the Circula website very recently. A new layout, new graphics, even a new logo. No, this is not some quarterly refresh, but rather a sign of things to come. Enter the Facet. A new flagship model from the brand positioned as an elevated everyday or dress watch following in the integrated bracelet sport watch wave that has swept throughout the industry. Now, the Facet may not technically have an integrated bracelet (it’s available on a strap as well), though it certainly leans into a similar look and feel. While this might be an introductory piece for a portion of this audience, Circula is a brand that has been on my radar for a while now with the Protrail Field watch making its way into my collection. I can honestly say too that I was a fan of the former direction of the brand, aiming to provide good value in the roughly $1,000 sports watch segment of the market. So, does this departure from the previous trend towards another signal my exit from the bandwagon or blow a signal for full steam ahead? Let’s face it, the landscape of the watch industry has changed creating a more crowded and competitive market than we have ever seen before. In an effort to stand out, Cornelius Huber, the current caretaker of Circula and 3rd generation at the helm, has partnered with designer Guy Bove, previously of TAG Heuer amongst others, in designing the Facet to stand out in the pack. Utilizing new finishing techniques, a ...

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Nov 26, 2024

First Look - The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue

Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5711/1500A Becomes Most Nov 26, 2024

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever

A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...

Hands-On With The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic Fratello
Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic Today Nov 24, 2024

Hands-On With The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic

Today, we’ll go hands-on with the new Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic. This is a modern-looking take on the brand’s entry into the sports-dress category. As we’ll see, the lack of an integrated bracelet and textured dial helps provide this watch with an identity of its own. The current Piaget Polo lineup features many models, including […] Visit Hands-On With The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic to read the full article.

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 44GS Nov 21, 2024

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia

Grand Seiko marks the second anniversary of its establishment in the Asia-Pacific with the Heritage Collection 44GS “Fuji” SBGJ285. Featuring a purple-pink dial inspired by the wisteria flower, this limited edition is based on the reinterpretation of the vintage 44GS and its distinctive wide-flanked case. The case and bracelet are in Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary steel alloy that’s harder and shinier than conventional watchmaking steel. Powered by the high-frequency automatic cal. 9S86, the SBGJ285 features “true GMT” functionality with an independently adjustable hour hand. Initial thoughts As a long-time fan of Grand Seiko, I love the patterned dials and Zaratsu case polishing. The SBGJ285 exemplifies the essence of Grand Seiko. Though Grand Seiko does put out a significant number of limited editions, this one stands out for its unusual purple-pink colour, which is a different shade from the “salmon” dials that are now in vogue. The watch also reflects the brand’s traditional strengths and weaknesses. The case and dial finishing are excellent, particularly at this price point. However, the bracelet is not as refined as sophisticated as that of the competition. That said, this will look good on a leather strap, especially given the vintage-inspired 44GS case pairs well with a strap. Conveniently, this limited edition is delivered with both a steel bracelet and a calfskin strap. Wisteria flower The limited edition retains the standard case of the “...