Results for DLC and PVD Coating

Portrait - The Philosophy and Influences of Bernhard Lederer; Watchmaker, Researcher, Inventor

For more than four decades, Bernhard Lederer has built a reputation on tangible achievements: remarkable timepieces, original escapements, and chronometric innovations. Yet the watches themselves reveal only part of the story. Behind each creation lies a way of thinking that has evolved over a lifetime devoted to independent watchmaking. Rather than retracing milestones or celebrating […]

Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral

The Tourbillon Sidéral debuted last year to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. This year, the brand is celebrating the 225th anniversary of its founder’s best-known achievement: the tourbillon. For this occasion, Breguet released a quartet of new references, among them the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT, a 50-piece limited edition in platinum, once again featuring an in-house aventurine enamel dial. Initial thoughts Despite being the brand’s first-ever flying tourbillon, the Tourbillon Sidéral feels somewhat familiar. That’s because its cal. 187M1 is derived from the brand’s original wristwatch tourbillon movement, the cal. 558, released in 1989. That explains the familiar off-centre dial arrangement and full-plate architecture visible through the case back. Within this lineage, the Tourbillon Sidéral can be considered the spiritual heir and technical successor to the Classique Tourbillon Messidor 5335 released 2007, a watch that seemed to suspend its tourbillon in mid-air. In fact, this mystery tourbillon was driven by a sapphire crystal drive wheel, and its upper pivot was supported by a sapphire crystal bridge. The Tourbillon Sidéral elevates this concept to its natural conclusion, dispensing with the upper support bridge entirely, resulting in a true flying tourbillon. Unfortunately, the two-armed tourbillon cage itself spans almost the entire width of the opening, and at times resembles an upper support bridge, at least until the eye registers ...

The Lightweight Casio F-91WF Watch on Cloth-Strap

The Casio F-91W does not need a complicated introduction. It is one of the simplest digital watches you can buy and one of the easiest to recognise. The new F-91WF collection keeps that familiar formula but changes the part that has the greatest effect on comfort and character: the strap. Instead of the usual resin band, each watch comes with a lightweight cloth strap made from recycled PET. There are three models in the collection. The F-91WF-1A is black, the F-91WF-2A is navy blue and the F-91WF-3A is olive green. The case colour is matched to the strap on each version, so none of them looks like an ordinary F-91W with a random replacement strap. They feel like a complete collection with three clear personalities. Why the F-91WF is more than a strap change The cloth strap is the main news but it is not only a visual detail. Casio describes it as lightweight, comfortable, resistant to scratches and resistant to stains. It should also feel less rigid than a resin strap, especially during hot weather or when the watch is worn for a full day. Its recycled PET material gives the range a practical environmental benefit without changing the affordable and uncomplicated nature of the F-91W. The strap fits wrists from 145 to 215mm. That broad range matters because the case itself is very compact. It measures 38.2mm from top to bottom, 35.2mm across and only 8.5mm thick. Each version weighs just 21 grams. On the wrist it should almost disappear, which remains one of the strongest ...

Patek Philippe 5140G vs 3940G: two ultra-thin perpetuals, one decision

Same movement, same 19mm lug width, same three-subdial layout. So why does the 3940G push over €92k while the 5140G sits closer to €51k, and which of the two is actually the smarter buy in 2026?

Seiko Introduces Six "Edo Purple" Limited Edition Watches For 145th Anniversary

Seiko launches six limited edition watches done in a "Edo purple" colorway celebrating the 145th anniversary of the Japanese watchmaker.

Hands-On: Laps Leaps into New Territory with the Arche, their First Mechanical Model

What started as a fashion watch brand a decade ago is making a leap into more traditional watchmaking territory. Laps has introduced its first mechanical model, the Arche as part of a new Studio Series. The collection consists of four iterations, two with simple textured dials and two that take on one of classic watchmaking’s key artforms: enamel. The dial is arguably the main focus of nearly all watches. It conveys the most pertinent information and serves as the aesthetic centerpiece. When French designer and art collector Antonin Mercie created Laps in 2016, he took the emphasis on the dial a step further – this would not just be the core focus of the watches but the core focus of the brand. Examples of watches from the Laps “Signature” collection The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements. All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – whi...

Timex 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired Is a Sharp $149 Steel Cartier Tank Alternative

Timex has taken the 1976 Lexington Reissue Inspired in the direction I wanted most: away from gold tone and into polished steel. The new TW2Y88200 keeps the compact rectangular shape, vertically brushed silver dial and Roman numerals of the earlier model, then adds metallic blue hands for a little contrast. It is currently listed as a $149 pre-order in the United States, which puts it firmly in the part of the market where a good design matters more than a prestigious logo. A rectangular watch with the right instincts I am a fan of rectangular watches because they make even a simple time-only watch feel considered. A round case can hide lazy proportions. A rectangle cannot. Every line is visible: the width, the length, the dial margins, the shape of the numerals and the relationship between case and strap. That is why the Cartier Tank remains such a powerful reference point, and why an affordable watch needs more than Roman numerals to feel convincing. Timex’s silver dial, blue hands and Roman numerals look clean. This Timex is not trying to be a counterfeit Tank. It earns its place as a nice alternative because it uses the same broad language of a slim rectangular case, an orderly dial and a leather strap, then keeps a personality of its own. If you enjoy this corner of watch design, I have also ranked the Cartier Tank alternatives that have stayed in my collection. The Lexington belongs in that conversation because it offers a clean steel option at a price that makes o...

Hands-On: Two Wild Dials From Ming, With The "Peepshow" and J.N. Shapiro Collaboration "Lightning"

You could easily argue that Ming is a materials and manufacturing incubator masquerading as a watch company. Lume that glows white. The lightest ever mechanical watch. The world's first 3D-printed titanium bracelet-strap hybrid. All of these are associated with pretty incredible products, but, to some extent, I think it's fair to say the watches themselves are vehicles for showcasing cool innovation. That's not to say the watches are anything but great. But on occasion they're solutions looking for a problem. I kind of love the brand for it. That kind of innovation also extends to dial making, where Ming has recently released two really interesting dial-making exercises in their collaboration with J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 "Lightning" and standalone 29.06 "Peepshow." I recently had the chance to go hands-on with a few novelties from Ming. The brand, of course, had a great coup when the 37.09 "Bluefin" beat Tudor and a few others for the best sports watch at GPHG in 2024. They followed up with the 37.09 Uni, which I would say is their most practical release of late. The 56.00 "Starfield" is pretty wild but not to my taste, so I gravitated toward covering the two more dial-focused releases of this year (and their LW01 lightweight watch, which will get a future story on its own). It seemed fitting to start with the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 "Lightning," since I was actually photographing Shapiro's most recent release the same day. And boy, is the watch stunning in person. Th...

Introducing - A Restored Valjoux 72 Chronograph to Power the New Singer Heritage V72

Singer Reimagined releases the Heritage V72, a handsome chronograph powered by a restored new-old-stock Valjoux 72 movement. Beyond an exercise in restoration, Singer pays tribute to the calibre’s iconic architecture, revealing its hidden attributes through elevated finishings that far surpass those of the original movement. Presented in a compact 38.8mm case with a glassbox caseback, […]

The Perfect Laureato? Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty With A Rose-Gold Dial

Last year, I had the honor of testing the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty in bi-color prior to its release. It’s a tricky thing to walk around with a watch that isn’t out yet, but luckily, I live in a small village where the risk of it being spotted is rather low. Back then, I was […] Visit The Perfect Laureato? Hands-On With The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty With A Rose-Gold Dial to read the full article.

Seiko’s latest Asia-Pacific Prospex limited editions bring golden hour to the wrist

The Seiko Prospex HBB003K and HBB004K are two new Asia-Pacific exclusive editions, limited to 2,500 pieces each. The sand-textured yellow and orange dials are inspired by the visual transition from golden sunsets to tranquil nights along Asian coastlines. Priced at A$995, both models are available for pre-order exclusively through Seiko Boutiques and Seiko Online. Seiko … Continued

Introducing - Seiko Celebrates 145 Years with New “Edo Purple” Watches

145 years ago, a young man known as Kintaro Hattori opened a shop in Tokyo’s Ginza district for the sale and repair of timepieces. This story, which started in 1881, is that of one of the most important brands incorporated in Japan: Seiko. In the years since, the company has grown alongside Japan’s largest metropolis, […]

Finding The Best Seiko Divers In The Brand’s Prospex Collection

About a week ago, I wrote an article about two classic Seiko divers. For many watch fans, including the majority of the Fratello team, Seiko divers hold a special place in their collections. If it wasn’t your first mechanical watch, it was often one of the first that helped grow your love for watches. After […] Visit Finding The Best Seiko Divers In The Brand’s Prospex Collection to read the full article.

Omega Speedmaster Today: Moonwatch, Snoopy and Dark Side of the Moon

Book Review: ‘Universal People Universal Dreams’

Universal People Universal Dreams is a large-format book that explores, in great detail, a collection of 111 Universal Genève chronographs, and only chronographs. The 384-page book is also a record of the collecting journey of its author, Luca Mignini, who reflects on the lessons learnt and people encountered in his pursuit of watches across the world. A longtime watch collector who is now a professor at Milan’s Bocconi University, Mr Mignini had a long career in the consumer goods industry, culminating in a spell as chief operating officer at Campbell’s, the American food giant famous for its canned soups, after which he retired in 2019. The globe-crossing nature of his career took him from his homeland of Italy to Shanghai and New Jersey, giving him the opportunity to collect internationally, a phenomenon that professionals who travel extensively for work will find familiar. Having been interested in watches since he was a teenager, Mr Mignini made his way through the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, before landing on Universal Genève during a trip to Tokyo in 2010. In the time since, he has accumulated the impressive collection of Universal Genève detailed in this book. I met Mr Mignini last year in Geneva and he is clearly obsessed with Universal Genève. His tremendous passion for the brand  makes it almost a given Universal People Universal Dreams will be laser focused on Universal chronographs yet exceptionally wide in scope within the narrow s...

Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition: Scooter Yellow in 36.4mm

Eight thousand pieces. One very specific shade of yellow. Seiko and Honda celebrate the Motocompo's 45th anniversary with a watch that's hard to ignore.

Luxury Look, Accessible Price: Why the Fossil Harwell is the Perfect Ralph Lauren Stirrup Alternative

A few years ago, my friends gifted me the Fossil Harwell ES5267. From the moment I opened the box, I was absolutely captivated. I have always loved the color green, especially when paired with gold, and this watch executes that combination flawlessly. But beyond its stunning colorway, it stands out for another reason: it is arguably the best affordable alternative to the luxurious Ralph Lauren Stirrup Small. If you love the quiet luxury and equestrian heritage of the Ralph Lauren Stirrup but can’t justify the designer price tag, the Fossil Harwell captures the exact vibe.  The Appeal of the Stirrup Shape The stirrup case design immediately draws the eye. Instead of traditional lugs, the strap typically passes through the upper loop of the case, integrating the watch seamlessly onto the wrist. It’s a silhouette that feels both vintage and contemporary, perfect for adding a touch of tailored elegance to any outfit. It is a bold, instantly recognizable case shape that acts as a piece of statement jewelry just as much as a timekeeper.  The Inspiration: Ralph Lauren Stirrup Small To understand the appeal of the Fossil Harwell, we first have to look at the titan that inspired this aesthetic: the Ralph Lauren Stirrup collection. Introduced at SIHH in Geneva in 2009, the Stirrup collection perfectly captures Ralph Lauren’s deep equestrian heritage. The Stirrup Small features an iconic stirrup-shaped silhouette, measuring 27.7 x 29.3 mm, and often houses high-end Swiss mov...

Leica Watches Brand Review: Can The Iconic Camera Maker Pull It Off?

Leica watches are gaining ground in the competitive luxury watch market, here we take a look at the legendary camera maker's horological leap.

Identifying a Watch 101: The Elliott Smith Case Study

Whether it’s shown briefly on a TV show, in a photograph, featured in an advertisement, or even programmed into a video game, as watch collectors, we’ve all had at least one time where we spotted a watch and felt almost forced to double-take. Because of the money associated with stardom, it’s often Rolex Submariners, Omega Speedmasters, and Patek Philippe’s galore that we find in popular culture productions and events. There are, of course, countless instances of this, but I find that catching a glimpse of an inexpensive and accessible watch on someone’s wrist is far more rewarding and worthwhile to the average watch collector. Few of us have the ability to spend thousands of dollars on a watch that has Hollywood provenance, so to spot and potentially own a piece of horological pop culture history for sometimes well under $100 is a dream come true for many movie and watch fans. To illustrate how identifying a watch can be quite fun and certainly approachable, we will be examining singer/songwriter Elliott Smith and his wristwatch. Its brand and model will be revealed later on as I will first walk you through each step of the process. I hope I can provide you with some pointers the next time you come across a watch you want to identify yourself. It can feel like a rather unnecessary skill at times, but it’s a good feeling to discover a popular culture tie to a wristwatch that no one else has noticed before. How to Identify and Research an Unknown Watch Using Pho...

Photo Report: The 2026 Silverstone British Grand Prix With TAG Heuer

Walking down the pit lane towards the Red Bull garage, I get chatting to a guy, thanks to the watch on his wrist (it was a Monaco), who tells me about his love for F1 and how special it is to stand close enough to these machines that you can feel their engines through your chest. At one point, I asked him, "Which race haven't you been to yet that you're dying to attend?" "I'd love to get to Spa one day, but honestly? This is it. Silverstone is the home of it all. It's hard to beat this place." Over the past five years, F1 has undergone a revitalization I don't think any other sport can match. Fuelled by Netflix's Drive to Survive, a crop of drivers who've opened up more of themselves than any generation before them, and no shortage of on-track drama, the fan base for the sport hasn't just increased; it's evolved in ways that have changed who actually shows up at races. It's that diversified, culture-conscious crowd that TAG Heuer's return as Official Timekeeper is clearly aimed at. TAG Heuer has timed Oracle Red Bull Racing since 2016, through all four of Verstappen's titles, but in 2025 the brand's role in F1 became much bigger. TAG Heuer became the sport's Official Timekeeper as part of a huge move by LVMH across the entire paddock, a ten-year partnership that also brought Louis Vuitton and Moët & Chandon into Formula 1. Silverstone earns its place at the centre of that story more than any other stop on the calendar. It's one of only four circuits still on the grid that...

Hands-on - The Urwerk UR-100V Lightspeed Ceramic, Poetic Time Measurement at the Speed of Light

Since its debut in 2019, the UR-100 Series has become one of Urwerk‘s most approachable and recognisable creations. “Approachable” is, of course, a relative term in terms of price, yet it is true regarding wearability. The UR-100 features the brand’s signature wandering-hour satellite display, but unlike the more extravagant EMC, UR-120 or UR-230, it packages […]

Twelve on Time - Chopard’s Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his Personal Relationship with Time and Watches

Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking, revealing […]

The Best Affordable Field Watch Under $50? Militado vs. Rdunae Hands-On

A hands-on comparison of two affordable field watch models that deliver serious value, comfort, and convenience at under $50.

Five Rolex References That Identify You As An Enthusiast

Anyone can point at a modern Submariner and know it’s a Rolex. Recognizing that the watch takes no real knowledge of the brand, Rolex has spent decades making sure of that. But there’s a different, quieter tier of Rolex ownership that has nothing to do with what’s easiest to identify from across the room. It’s […] Visit Five Rolex References That Identify You As An Enthusiast to read the full article.

Introducing - The Grøne Oldenzaal Horologium, a Refined, Hand-Wound, Attainable Dress Watch by The Grönefeld

By now, most of you must be familiar with the so-called Horological brothers, the duo of Dutch indie watchmakers behind Grönefeld and its superb, high-end and lavishly decorated watches. Highly desirable watches for sure, not for every pocket though. This is why, in 2024, Tim and Bart Grönefeld created a new brand named Grøne Oldenzaal, […]

Leaving Little To The Imagination - Hands-On With The All-Exposing BA11OD Chapter 7 Skeleton

This is the answer to the not-yet-answered question, but that was going to pop up anyway: The BA11OD Chapter 7 Skeleton is both an open-worked and a skeletonized watch. You get optimal full-frontal horological nudity in a chic sporty package for a great price. This watch might tick all your boxes. Find out as I […] Visit Leaving Little To The Imagination — Hands-On With The All-Exposing BA11OD Chapter 7 Skeleton to read the full article.

Leaving Little To The Imagination - Hands-On With The All-Exposing BA111OD Chapter 7 Skeleton

This is the answer to the not-yet-answered question, but that was going to pop up anyway: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Skeleton is both an open-worked and a skeletonized watch. You get optimal full-frontal horological nudity in a chic sporty package for a great price. This watch might tick all your boxes. Find out as I […] Visit Leaving Little To The Imagination — Hands-On With The All-Exposing BA111OD Chapter 7 Skeleton to read the full article.

Introducing - The Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Diver Resurfaces with the Option of a Date

Baltic Watches, the French indie brand founded by Etienne Malec in 2017, has transcended its status as a microbrand in less than ten years. Designed in Paris and powered by reliable, outsourced movements assembled in Besançon, France, Baltic’s success can be attributed to its retro-flavoured watches coupled with accessible prices. The flagship Aquascaphe Classic, a […]

Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition

Seiko has introduced a new limited edition to its Seiko 5 Sports collection in collaboration with Honda, taking inspiration from the iconic Motocompo folding scooter first introduced in 1981. Limited to 8,000 pieces worldwide, the watch incorporates several design elements inspired by the Motocompo, including a vivid yellow dial, a black center section bearing the […] Visit Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition to read the full article.

Habring² x SJX “Medicus” Giveaway

To mark the completion of the Habring² x SJX Chrono-Felix “Medicus”, we have reserved one of the watches from the final batch for a member of the SJX newsletter community. The 50-piece limited edition is now sold out, but we set aside one example with a silver dial for this giveaway. This is intended both as a thank-you to our existing readers (who will get bonus entries) and an invitation for new readers to join the newsletter. How to enter All eligible, confirmed SJX newsletter subscribers at 11:59 PM GMT on Wednesday, August 12, 2026, will be entered into the draw automatically. Readers who were confirmed newsletter subscribers before the publication of the giveaway announcement will each receive three entries in recognition of their existing support — no action is necessary to participate. Readers who subscribe after the announcement and before the giveaway closes on August 12th will receive one entry each. Selecting and contacting the winner The winner will be selected at random from the eligible weighted entry pool and contacted by Wednesday, August 19, 2026. The winner will be contacted at the email address used for their newsletter subscription and must respond within 7 days. If the winner does not respond, declines the prize, or cannot provide the information reasonably required for delivery, tax, or customs purposes, the prize may be forfeited and an alternate winner selected. The prize The prize is one silver-dial Habring² x SJX Chrono-Felix “Medicus,...