1,127 articles · 38 videos found · page 33 of 39
Quill & Pad
Despite the virus restrictions, GaryG has managed to venture out from time to time for brief, top-secret rendezvous in parking lots and on park benches to receive and return the generous loans of friends’ watches to photograph. Recently, he had the chance to shoot a true classic: a second-series Reference 3450J perpetual calendar made by Patek Philippe, which he shares with us here.
SJX Watches
Established in 1948, Yema was once a French watchmaking giant, having equipped the French Air Force and the first French astronaut, Jean-Loup Chrétien. It entered a long decline in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, but was revived under its current French owners who took over in 2009. Now Yema is once again making tool watches for professionals in a tie up with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. A collection of dive watches “jointly designed with French Navy personnel for marine professionals”, the Navygraf X Marine Nationale is led by a time-only, automatic dive watch, as well as a variant with a GMT function. It also includes a less expensive quartz model and a ladies version, though they will not be covered here. The Navygraf Marine Nationale Automatic (left), and GMT Initial thoughts Along with fellow French brand Baltic, Yema is one of my favourite brands at the US$1,000 price point. Its watches are well designed and executed for the price, often offering strong value. Given Yema’s historical relationship with the French military – the brand supplied watches to French air force helicopter pilots in the 1970s – Yema has legitimacy in military watches, and its collaboration with the navy makes sense. The white and blue combination – a nautical palette modelled on the emblem of the French Navy – is familiar but stands out on the wrist, being immediately reminiscent of the oceans. The maritime theme of the symmetrical and legible dial is reinforc...
Time+Tide
Having buttressed their online fashion offering with an impressive collection of fine watches, Mr Porter has become a real force to be reckoned with over the last decade. To celebrate their 10th birthday, they’ve collaborated with IWC on a damn tempting version of their Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, a piece that delivers superb legibility at … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Batshit crazy”, it turns out, is a phrase that means different things to different people. To me in a watch context, it means technical craziness. Lots of complications. Unnecessary but deeply impressive flexing of watchmaker muscle. To Wei it’s a state of mind. What watch would you be batshit crazy to wear on the mean … ContinuedThe post What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You’ve probably cottoned on now to the video series that we’re running that picks the best of the watches just released at Watches & Wonders 2021 in various categories. The under $10k category dropped yesterday. If you happened to see that opening statement, you’ll be well aware; the Oscars this ain’t. The point of this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The four dark horse watches of Watches & Wonders, as voted by your favourite watch websites appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Following the uncertainty of the COVID-19 pandemic and the isolating feel of digital fairs, the prospect of a bright, sunny, warm, and welcoming in-person Dubai Watch Week warms our hearts immensely! And we are in for a real treat this time around for more reasons than simply celebrating a return to normality and the ability to touch and feel new watches and meet with old and new friends as Elizabeth Doerr explains.
Time+Tide
The force is strong today. We can all get in touch with our inner Midi-chlorians as we say to each other “May the fourth be with you.” If you’ve seen my video review of the Grand Seiko SBGW264, than you probably know I am a bit of a Star Wars nerd. The Skywalker saga means … ContinuedThe post May the fourth be with you: Two Star Wars watches at opposite ends of the pricing spectrum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
At the start of the year, I was asked by my top-knotted boss (aka Andrew) what my exit watch would be. My answer came to me surprisingly quickly for some reason – the Jacob & Co Twin Turbo Furious Baguette Rose Gold with white diamonds and rubies of course. Why? Because it’s preposterously brilliant, complicated, … ContinuedThe post Is UFC champ Khabib Nurmagomedov just trolling Conor McGregor with his new Jacob & Co collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Chambertin, one of the truly great names in the world of wine, is an appellation created in 1937. The range of vineyards throughout the region, different makers, and various vintages all provide variations on the theme, but in general these wines tend to the fuller, firmer style of Burgundy. Ken Gargett explains why these wines are so special.
Time+Tide
With nearly 40 brands presenting novelties this Watches & Wonders, it can be quite the challenge to present a novelty that stands out amongst the crowd. After speaking with various members of the press, and #watchfam on instagram and clubhouse, it has become abundantly clear that the horological champion of the fair was Jaeger-LeCoultre. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A Finnish watchmaker in Switzerland, Torsti Laine has become known for his affordable watches with custom-made dials and attractively modified Unitas movements. Now he is simultaneously unveiling his next generation of watches. One is the Laine G3, an improved version of his bestselling model that’s now available with dials comprised of various materials. It continues to be powered by a Unitas calibre, but now even more elaborately decorated with relief engraving on the three-quarter plate. And the second is the Laine V38, an entirely new model that’s smaller and slimmer thanks to the automatic Vaucher VMF 5401 inside. Like the G3, it will be offered with a variety of mix-material dials. The LA18.1 with its new three-quarter plate decoration Initial thoughts Appealing for the high level of customisation and good finishing, Mr Laine’s watches have long been an accessible yet respectable entry into the world of independent watchmaking. His new models continue to offer the qualities that made his earlier watches a success, while adding a bit more to the mix in terms of finishing and choice. The variety of dial styles and materials will be the biggest selling point, while the new movement engraving might be unnecessarily fancy. The V38, in particular, is something that Mr Laine never offered before in terms of size, which should make it the most appealing to buyers wanting something more classically sized. The V38 With the G3 starting at CHF8,500, the new models are more...
Time+Tide
We’re BACK with the streetstyle-centric #kixntix, and what better way to celebrate some of the sharpest watches to come out of Watches & Wonders than with some fresh Nikes? This time I’m enamoured by the cutting-edge engineering of the new Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum collection. Powered by the tour de force 9004 movement – the … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Pairing up the dazzling Zenith DEFY 21 Spectrum with a fresh blue Nike Air drop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow highlights five pieces from some of our favorite independent brands that have just been released at Watches & Wonders 2021. From sapphire crystal-encased tourbillons and constant force fusée-and-chain-powered movements to stunning art pieces, these watches span genres and the spectrum of collector dreams.
Time+Tide
You know the phrase “Business on the outside, party on the inside”? Well Zenith has flipped that with the new, very limited-edition Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum line. The business is on the inside with that magnificent dual-escapement El Primero 9004 automatic movement – but there’s no doubting that it’s party time on the outside. A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Anyone that’s paid more than a passing glance to Time+Tide stories, social media posts and videos over the years knows one thing. We do things a little differently over here. Especially at watch fairs. It’s not entirely by design. We are more often than not as chronically over-caffeinated as we are understaffed. Luckily for everyone, the … ContinuedThe post Hey, wow, what a surprise, we’re doing Watches & Wonders a little differently this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Can’t stop, won’t stop breaking world records,” might be the mantra of the Bulgari watchmaking department, because that’s exactly what they keep doing. Year after year since 2014, the Italian manufacturer has relentlessly achieved new benchmarks for thinness in horology, building their credibility as a force to be reckoned with faster than almost any brand … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar breaks the brand’s 7th world record since 2014 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having explored the Citizen Caliber 0200 last week, we now focus on arguably the most important aspect of the watch – the cal 0200 within. An important achievement for Citizen, the cal. 0200 is the brand’s first high-end automatic movement. The fact that the watch was named after its movement indicates its significance, and also the fact that the watch was constructed around the movement, rather than vice versa. The Caliber 0200 wristwatch is high quality, particularly in the finishing of its case and bracelet. That’s all the more impressive given its US$6,000 price tag, which leaves the best of class in its price segment in terms of finishing and quality. But the Caliber 0200’s merits are all encompassing – its movement is as accomplished as the external components. The cal. 0200 is an all-new, in-house automatic with with the features expected of a modern movement, and a little bit more. Beyond its intrinsic qualities, it is also notable for being a fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking: its development, production, and assembly is done by Citizen in Japan, but with a key contribution from Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret, which makes the base plate and bridges, and helped to refine the movement decoration. The rest of the movement – from development and construction to finishing and assembly – is done by Citizen at its headquarters in Tokyo. In fact, Citizen set up a specialised workshop, the Mechanical Watch Elements Development Department (or ME...
Time+Tide
The pandemic has forced the watch industry to evolve. Not just in the way that retail has had to adapt, but in the way that new watches are launched. A decade ago, every brand rotated in orbit around the gravitational mass of the various watch fairs such as Baselworld and SIHH, but today new watches … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The rumours and regrets edition, as well as new Omega and a brand new Bremont building appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models are among the most coveted watches in the entire world. Owners of the various references already make other collectors green with envy, but the new 2021 Royal Oak Collection will make onlookers envy the green. Somewhere Conor McGregor’s #NewWatchAlert spidey sense just started tingling, because this new collection of five … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet goes all-in on green for the 2021 Royal Oak collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Best known for its pilot’s watches, Breitling has long enjoyed relationships with airforces across the world, including the United Kingdom’s Royal Air Force (RAF), especially its fabled aerobatic team, the Red Arrows. Continuing a partnership that is three decades old, Breitling has just announced the Chronomat Red Arrows Limited Edition. This is the latest in several Red Arrows editions that began in the 1990s, but the first that’s based on the latest-generation Chronomat, which also means it’s the first with an in-house movement, the Caliber 01. Not as revered by enthusiasts as the Navitimer with its distinctive slide-rule bezel, the Chronomat is nonetheless underrated. Introduced in 1984 to mark Breitling’s 100th anniversary, the modern-day Chronomat was a return to form for the brand, being a bold, brand-new design equipped with a mechanical movement, specifically the Valjoux 7750. Made even more distinctive with its Rouleaux bracelet made up of baton links, the Chronomat quickly became a bestseller that defined Breitling in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Given that fact that perhaps the best known Breitling-Red Arrows watch was a 1995 Chronomat with a red dial, the new edition makes perfect sense. That said, the Red Arrows watch is essentially the same as the standard Chronomat with a blue dial, but with the Red Arrows logo at 12 o’clock. Having more Red Arrows-specific elements incorporated to the design would have made it more distinctive, but since this ...
Time+Tide
The force is strong with Seiko and it’s clear they are not holding back this year with some fantastic new releases. The Sharp Edged Presage collection is known for its robust elegance, featuring eye-catching dials in highly scratch and water-resistant cases. Previously we all had a plethora of dials to admire in the time and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged GMT Collection oozes robust elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
I have been a huge fan of Kurono watches since their introduction. Master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka should be applauded for the brand’s mission of trying to make high-quality timepieces more accessible to consumers. What really makes Kurono so intriguing, beyond these more approachable price points, is the design language utilised across the various lines. This … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
George Bamford is about as passionate and enthusiastic a member of the watch community as you’ll ever find. His boisterous energy is infectious whether he’s discussing his Ferrari 275 GTB or the Bamford Watch Department x Time+Tide GMT1. And it’s this energy that is set to be the driving force behind his new podcast GB … ContinuedThe post George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Fresh off the press at LVMH Watch Week – which like most trade fairs was entirely online – the Hublot Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami All Black is one of the highlights amongst all the new launches. A collaboration with the Japanese contemporary artist known for his anime-inspired “superflat” creations, the Classic Fusion Murakami is a time-only watch with a twist: free-spinning, diamond-set petals that bring Mr Murakami’s “smiling flower” to life. Initial thoughts In photos the Murakami edition seems, at a glance, dull and static, in contrast to Mr Murakami’s signature style. But the watch glitters and spins, and despite not being serious haute horlogerie, it is cool and compelling. When I first heard that Hublot would be collaborating with Mr Murakami, I expected it to be dressed in psychedelic colours, so the muted All Black livery was a surprise. But as it turns out, it was Mr Murakami’s idea. Commenting the launch announcement, he said, “The one thing I did request was to go all black on our first collaboration… because the very first impression I had when I learned about Hublot was its signature black rubber [strap].” Still, the Murakami edition manages to convey the artist’s exuberant style without using colour, but instead relying on motion, texture, and the smiling flower emblem. And the all-black aesthetic makes sense given the diamonds and large size of the watch. The sparkle of the stones contrast well against the brushed bezel and bl...
Time+Tide
Magnets are useful for many things. They’ve helped decorate the outside of countless fridges, inspired the name of a seminal New York rap group (the Ultramagnetic MCs), and given Wile E Coyote various half-baked ideas in his doomed attempt to catch Road Runner. But magnets are less benign when it comes to your mechanical watch. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The lack of watch fairs and face-to-face watch showings meant that I saw fewer watches in the metal in 2020 than I had done in the last 10 years. But this lack of face time didn’t stop me salivating over a few key pieces that shot straight to the top of my wish-list. These were … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original, Blancpain and Mido make up Luke’s three favourite watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Latin phrase “in memoriam” is often used in place of “in memory of.” And to my mind, people also use it to signify departed who may be gone but shouldn’t be forgotten. Every year people working in the watch industry pass away, and brands come and go. Elizabeth Doerr highlights a special few of those we lost in 2020.
Time+Tide
When it comes to buying vintage watches, the phrase “buy the seller” should always be at the back of your mind. That’s because trust is always paramount when you’re buying anything pre-owned due to that nagging fear the watch you buy might not arrive at your door as advertised. This year, eBay has made a … ContinuedThe post 5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How many watches have you seen in the metal this year? My personal tally would surely be an all-time low. The COVID pandemic cancelled watch fairs while product viewings turned into digital affairs where white-gloved reps waved their timepieces at you over live video streams. There’s no real substitute for any of this, of course. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...
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