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Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT Being Jun 25, 2021

Hands-On: Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT

Being best known for its aviation-instrument watches, it is logical that Bell & Ross also does well with watches that keep track of a second, and now a third, time zone. The brand’s catalogue includes a variety of travel watches, with the latest being the BR 03-93 GMT. It’s an improved version of the brand’s longstanding dual time zone in a square case, now enhanced with a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel in “Coke” colours that allow it to display the time in up to three places. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross (B&R;) launched the original BR 03-93 GMT in 2016, which was the brand’s first wristwatch to combine the signature square case with a second time zone. The first-generation model has a fixed bezel, limiting its functionality to just two time zones. Subsequently, B&R; introduced a model with a rotating, 24-hour bezel – allowing it to track a third time zone – but in a more conventional round case. The BR V2-93 GMT, the first B&R; watch to feature a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel. Photo – B&R; While the square BR 03 case and rotating second time zone bezel might seem like an obvious combination, it has never existed, until now. The new BR 03-93 GMT is the first to install a bi-directional, 24-hour bezel on the brand’s best-known case design. Given B&R;’s roots in “tool” watches for pilots and other professionals, I’m surprised that it took as long as it did for B&R; to combine the two. The 24-hour bezel is executed in the familiar halves of black and...

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Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch SJX Watches
Jun 24, 2021

Russian Clockmaker Anton Suhanov Debuts His First Wristwatch

Anton Suhanov is best known for impressive desk clocks – the most recent of which features a triple-axis tourbillon within a metallic flower – but he has just unveiled his first timekeeper for the wrist. Inspired by automotive gauges, the Racer Jumping Hour GMT is an inventive take on the dual time zone wristwatch and boasts a double retrograde display along with a jumping hour. Initial thoughts His talents were already evident in his desk clocks, but Mr Suhanov now proves he can be equally imaginative with wristwatches. He once worked in Konstantin Chaykin’s workshop, which perhaps contributed to the novel design. Automotive-inspired watches rarely capture the style of a dashboard without looking silly, but the Racer manages to do so successfully. The design instantly evokes the dashboard of a vintage automobile thanks to several clever design elements, including the tiny canopies over each retrograde display as well as the arched guilloche and tiny jump hour winds that gives the dial a sense of perspective. The Racer is more complex than it looks – the time-display module has as many parts as an entire chronograph movement – although the base movement is a tried and true, but no-frills ETA 2824. Still, with a price of a bit over US$17,000, the Racer offers good value given the original design and mechanical complexity, most of which is accomplished in-house by Mr Suhanov. Inventive design and mechanics The slightly retro dial indicates the hours and minutes o...

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John-Mikaël Flaux Debuts Rearing Horse Automaton Clock SJX Watches
Jun 23, 2021

John-Mikaël Flaux Debuts Rearing Horse Automaton Clock

A clock and automaton maker whose timekeepers have taken the form of a running leopard and race car, John-Mikaël Flaux has just unveiled his most complex creation to date. Hand made from brass and steel, Le Cabré is a mechanical sculpture of a rearing Arabian horse with a key-wound clock in its base that doubles as a “mysterious trigger” for the automaton. Initial thoughts Le Cabré is very much mechanical objet d’art – handmade and hand finished, while being complex and extravagant. Automaton-clocks like this have long been part of independent watchmaking, but are typically little appreciated, largely due to their cost (and the necessity of having an office or house grand enough to install one of them). But the craft that goes into creating one is easily understood. Le Cabré is made up of 450 parts, three-quarters hand made by the clockmaker himself, a process that requires 1,500 hours of work according to Mr Flaux. Priced at a little over US$160,000, Le Cabré is substantially more expensive than Mr Flaux’s prior creations, but it is also substantially more complex. At the same time, considerably more lavish automaton clocks that are made of precious metal and decked out in precious stones traditionally have price tags in the millions, making this relatively affordable. Equine ballet Standing 24 cm, or a bit under 10″, Le Cabré is made up of a horse automaton protected by a glass case, sitting on a wood base. It was conceived by Mr Flaux in collaboration...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Endeavour Titanium collection Time+Tide
Jun 20, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Endeavour Titanium collection

After their successful debut collection, RZE are back with their second set of hard-wearing tool watches in the Endeavour collection. Despite releasing their first watches less than a year ago, the RZE Endeavour collection is working to confirm the brand’s young reputation as a manufacturer of bullet-proof everyday watches. With some unique design elements to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Endeavour Titanium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Understanding Resonance, Featuring The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance, Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, And Haldimann H2 Flying Resonance – Reprise Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Armin Jun 20, 2021

Understanding Resonance, Featuring The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance, Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, And Haldimann H2 Flying Resonance – Reprise

Resonance. No, it is not a Tesla-themed Evanescence cover band. Resonance is a physics principle that, to be honest, most people will never need to know to go about their daily lives. So what is all the hubbub about resonance? It’s a word that is, even in the watch world, so mysterious and rare that it is heard only once or twice a decade. In this article Joshua Munchow explains how resonance works and why it matters.

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RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone Time+Tide
Jun 18, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone

How could a mechanical wristwatch be more modern than an smartwatch? As any high school debater will tell you, it depends how you define your terms, but that is exactly the question Jason Fried, the Founder & CEO at Basecamp, asked in a recent blog post. His argument? Well, it all boils down to how … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Your need-to-know guide to Minase Watches – the Japanese Prime Minister’s choice of hand-crafted wristwear Time+Tide
Minase Jun 17, 2021

Your need-to-know guide to Minase Watches – the Japanese Prime Minister’s choice of hand-crafted wristwear

Eyebrows were raised when the long-serving Japanese Prime Minister Shinso Abe wore a bright blue piece of wristwear while attending the G20 summit a few years back, proving himself to be a watch aficionado with a taste for craftsmanship. He was wearing a Minase Divido, and that sparked many an online discussion. Personally, I’ve been … ContinuedThe post Your need-to-know guide to Minase Watches – the Japanese Prime Minister’s choice of hand-crafted wristwear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Jun 15, 2021

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius

While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...

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Cartier Tank Talk With George Cramer And Martin Green: Behind The Scenes (Video) Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank Talk Jun 14, 2021

Cartier Tank Talk With George Cramer And Martin Green: Behind The Scenes (Video)

Martin Green had the pleasure of participating in the Cartier #TankTalk with George Cramer, which saw Cartier's Amsterdam boutique staff sharing experiences selling these watches on a daily basis and George and Martin sharing how they perceive the different models. This gave everyone more in-depth insights, strengthened by the presence of historic Tank models as well as the entire new Must collection.

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RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Black Panther Jun 11, 2021

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua

When it was first announced that Audemars Piguet and Marvel would be collaborating on a watch, social media lit up with criticism of the project. Yet only a couple of months later, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon has been seen on the wrists of more taste makers than you can … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ Jun 6, 2021

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 2526 ‘Gobbi Milano’ – Reprise

A good friend of GaryG's owns a cream-dialed Reference 2526, and Gary has often admired it over the years but hadn’t really understood the role that the 2526 plays in Patek Philippe’s history until talking with him and other watch pals and doing some late-night online research. Read on to learn why he bought this special "Gobbi Milano" edition from 1954 in an exciting spur of a moment.

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Professional Watch Journalists Reveal What Makes Them Tick: WATCH-ing Out  (Video) Quill & Pad
Jun 2, 2021

Professional Watch Journalists Reveal What Makes Them Tick: WATCH-ing Out  (Video)

Many professsional watch journalists may or may not have loved watches when they first started writing about them. But attitudes and personal tastes transform over time, so that some journalists who started in another field may come to love watches more than they ever thought possible. And four of them feature in this Instagram Live video. The overriding question answered is what makes individuals like us decide on what we do, say, buy, collect, and, above all, write?

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The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people Time+Tide
May 30, 2021

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people

Buying a watch is rarely something that you do on a random whim. Much like buying a car, it tends to be an extremely considered purchase where you research and agonise over every last detail. In addition, watch collectors also tend to have highly informed (and vocal) opinions over most aspects of a timepiece from … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The function forward Grand Seiko SBGX335 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGX335 Grand Seiko don’t May 28, 2021

VIDEO: The function forward Grand Seiko SBGX335

Grand Seiko don’t make dainty dive watches. Instead, the Japanese watchmaker follows their design philosophy of blending form and function in a way that doesn’t compromise either, with large, legible underwater tool watches that can hold up against anything you’re likely to do with them. One great example is the Grand Seiko SBGX335, a quartz … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The function forward Grand Seiko SBGX335 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900 Time+Tide
May 27, 2021

SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900

As A$AP Ferg rapped in his 2017 track Plain Jane, “Ferg is the name, Ben Baller did the chain,” solidifying the LA jeweller Ben Baller as the goldsmith of choice for hip-hop royalty. Ben has made jewellery for everyone who’s anyone, including Drake, Kanye West, Nas, The Weeknd, Snoop Dogg and Mariah Carey. He made the … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack Time+Tide
May 25, 2021

NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack

First up, an introduction as to how this column is going to run and for that a high-end car metaphor is required. The majority of the timepieces that fill this site can, without too much of a stretch, be equated to wrist Ferraris, horological McLarens, an Aston Martin with tourbillons – you get the picture. … ContinuedThe post NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Leading the charge: Kevin Pietersen on saving rhinos and the Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI May 25, 2021

Leading the charge: Kevin Pietersen on saving rhinos and the Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI

Kevin Pietersen was always a box-office cricketer with his swashbuckling, front-foot style making him one of England’s most gifted batsmen. During the course of making more than 8000 Test runs, including 23 centuries, the man known as “KP” faced down some devastating bowlers. “Shoaib Akhtar was pretty fast and Mitchell Johnson bowled that fast series … ContinuedThe post Leading the charge: Kevin Pietersen on saving rhinos and the Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Believe the hype: Christie’s Auction of the Decade smashed records to net $34m Time+Tide
May 24, 2021

Believe the hype: Christie’s Auction of the Decade smashed records to net $34m

When Christie’s described The Legends of Time event in Hong Kong last weekend as “the auction of the decade,” they certainly talked it up. But it turns out that confidence wasn’t misplaced.  The auction achieved no fewer than 10 world record sales with the total tally coming to $34,850,855 USD – the best-ever result for … ContinuedThe post Believe the hype: Christie’s Auction of the Decade smashed records to net $34m appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin May 24, 2021

Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul

Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul. By Alexey Kutkovoy. Chaykin.ru; €230 Just glancing at Konstantin Chaykin’s repertoire tells you that there must be many stories behind his watches and clocks – they are markedly out of the ordinary. To tell some of those stories behind the timepieces – and his own story – Konstantin recruited renowned Russian watch journalist Alexey Kutkovoy in 2019. Despite Konstantin being a perfectionist, Mr Kutkovoy had journalistic freedom. “I was not bound by his control, so I had the privilege to compose my own independent vision with some nice subjects discovered, and I’m happy he left that untouched,” mentions Mr Kutkovoy. The Joker Selfie made for charity auction Only Watch 2019 His life and work The result is Konstantin Chaykin, a wide-ranging book that’s both an overview of Konstantin’s first 17 years of watchmaking as well as the myriad tales about his watches and clocks. Konstantin Chaykin is 384 well-filled pages, laid out in an unusual design that befits the individualism found in his watches. Originally published in Russian, the book is now available in English in a limited edition of 1,000 copies. Mr Kutkovoy decided to present Konstantin’s story in two separate threads – a timeline and an evolution of Konstantin’s clock and watch inventions – that presents a detailed history in a most accessible way. The opened cover of Konstantin Chaykin The first section is a chronological narrative, ...

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