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All Rolex Day-Date References (President) Rolex

Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary Mar 8, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique

Many watch enthusiasts believe that the terms “icon” is overused by watch media. Fair play. But when a collection that has been consistently beloved for decades, celebrates its 90th birthday, I believe this is one of the sure moments where it is safe to label it so. Any watch lover worth their salt has heard … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates 90th anniversary of the Reverso with the retrospective “Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931” in their Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku Time+Tide
Mar 7, 2022

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku

Outside the weather was freezing with temperatures down to minus 10°C. But in the driver’s seat of the hire car skittering over the icy roads, Eric Ku was sweating.  At stake was a huge opportunity that could kick-start his career as a watch dealer. But only if he made it in time. It was 2002, … ContinuedThe post “Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine Quill & Pad
Mar 3, 2022

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine

Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).

The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I buy now or wait? Time+Tide
Mar 3, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I buy now or wait?

It’s that time of year. As watch journalists, our inboxes start getting inundated with press releases and embargo dates. New collections are created while others are retired with one of the biggest watch fairs of the year around the corner. Yet as crazy as this time is for us, as a collector, it’s probably one … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I buy now or wait? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London SJX Watches
Mar 1, 2022

Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London

The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Revives Feb 28, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976

Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone

A Singapore watch retailer with a presence across Southeast Asia, Australasia, and even Japan, The Hour Glass frequently collaborated with the brands it represents on regional exclusives. The latest is the Classic Fusion 42 mm Elements, a variation on the watchmaker’s long-running, minimalist wristwatch but dressed up with striking mineral stone dials, ranging from tiger’s eye to turquoise, set against a titanium-and-gold case. Tiger’s eye Initial thoughts Like past editions created by The Hour Glass, the Classic Fusion Elements is different but attractive, accomplishing the most obvious purpose of a collaboration edition. Even though the Classic Fusion has been iterated endlessly, the Elements still manages to stand out. That’s thanks to several simple but smart details that demonstrate a good eye for design. The dial, for example, does away with hours markers and the date so the mineral stone can be revealed in all its natural glory. The unencumbered dial is not only appealing for its striking simplicity, but it will also speak to fans of the brands as it resembles the original Hublot design of 1980. Even though the dial is the star, the two-tone case plays an important role in the overall look. The gold accents make the case immediately more striking than its monochromatic counterparts, but the restrained use of gold means the result is stylish and avoids old-fashioned look that often comes with the two-tone combination. That said, the dial colours do call to...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”

One of Patek Philippe’s longest standing and most important retailers in Asia, Cortina Watch celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2022. In that half century, Cortina has grown from a single store in Singapore to one of the biggest retailers in Southeast Asia with a network of 45 stores and remains controlled by the founding Lim family. As it was with its 25th anniversary in 1997, Cortina is marking the milestone with a limited edition Patek Philippe – the same model in a different guise in fact. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary” preserves the design of the earlier anniversary edition, but dresses it up in a more contemporary grey and silver livery. Importantly, the ref. 5057 was a brand-new reference conceived for Cortina, which means the new edition is only the second time that the reference is seeing light of day. Initial thoughts The ref. 5057G is notable in several ways. For one, it is unusual amongst retailer editions in having complications instead of being a time-and-date Calatrava, no doubt a reflection of the especially strong ties between the Stern and Lim families. Second, the ref. 5057G harks back to the watchmaker’s aesthetic of the 1990s with its dial and hobnail bezel. This sets it apart from Patek Philippe’s recent watches, which mostly have a more contemporary style. And the ref. 5057G is intrinsically attractive. I have yet to see the watch in person, but I’ve examined the preceding ref. 5057R several ...

Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Feb 14, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

Launched in 2020 inside the all-new Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko’s top-of-the-line mechanical and Spring Drive movements have now found their way into the distinctive 44GS case, which happens to turn 55 this year. With its wide, flat lugs, the 44GS case is a familiar, quintessential Grand Seiko (GS) design, but the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition pair bring along relatively new features: the case is machined from brand’s proprietary Ever Brilliant Steel for the first time, while the dial now sports an unusually pronounced woodgrain pattern. Initial thoughts The 44GS 55th Anniversary is typical of the brand’s recent launches with its iteration on familiar elements but made different with minor tweaks. It’s a subtlety that appeals to enthusiasts who cherish variations on a theme, though casual observers will find it difficult to distinguish between the models. But the fundamental appeal of GS remains, which is a top notch execution within its price segment. That said, the latest pair are arguably a bit more special. One factor in their favour is the patterned dial. It’s a newish addition to the GS line up and also exclusive to date, having been used only in two models, both of which are expensive watches in precious metals. The new 44GS is, of course, in steel and hence more affordable. But the case is no ordinary steel, but instead Ever Brilliant Steel – the corrosion-resistant alloy is being applied to GS cases for the first ...

It’s Nautilus vs Aquanaut as Brooklyn Beckham & James Corden have a steak / frites cook-off while wearing Pateks Time+Tide
Feb 12, 2022

It’s Nautilus vs Aquanaut as Brooklyn Beckham & James Corden have a steak / frites cook-off while wearing Pateks

Sports watches were once truly tool watches. A chronograph was a stopwatch on the wrist, a dive watch with a timing bezel was the original dive computer. But today, the idea that either are the best tools for the job is a bit romantic. They definitely can get it done, and that is part of … ContinuedThe post It’s Nautilus vs Aquanaut as Brooklyn Beckham & James Corden have a steak / frites cook-off while wearing Pateks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines Time+Tide
TAG Heuer ushered Feb 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines

A lot has happened over the last seven days, but earlier today TAG Heuer ushered in their next generation of Connected Watch: the Calibre E4. Some collectors scoff at the idea of a smartwatch, claiming that such a digital device does not have the artistic essence of a traditional mechanical timepiece. But let’s face it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Feb 7, 2022

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Open Feb 7, 2022

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

Retro Dive Watch Specialist Squale Unveils the 1521 Montredo SJX Watches
Blancpain supplied Feb 3, 2022

Retro Dive Watch Specialist Squale Unveils the 1521 Montredo

Derived from Italian for “shark”, Squale was a maker of dive watches – as well as a supplier of dive watch cases to many notable brands – that had its heyday in the 1960s and 1970s. Like most of its peers, Squale went under during the Quartz Crisis, lying dormant until 2005 when it was revived by its onetime distributor in Italy. The reborn Squale is focused once again on dive watches, with its current lineup modelled on the brand’s historical products. The flagship is the 1521, an affordable, no-frills dive watch that’s been pared back even further with the limited-edition Montredo x Squale 1521. Initial thoughts Retro dive watches are common today, especially in Squale’s price segment of under US$2,000. But Squale manages to set it apart by having historical legitimacy unlike startup brands. The Montredo edition stands out for its minimalism. The outline of the watch has been retained, but the details have been reduced to the essentials, like the bezel with only five-minute markers. The result brings to mind the military-issue dive watches of the 1970s and 1980s, most notably the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” that Blancpain supplied to the German navy – which coincidentally had a case made by Squale. In fact, the Fifty Fathoms “Bund” relied on the very “50 Atmos” case Squale used for its ref. 1521 diver, making the Montredo edition a tidy historical throwback. Ref. 1521 The 50-piece run is a collaboration between Squale and Montredo, a Berlin-based ...

Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology Quill & Pad
Feb 1, 2022

Parmigiani La Rose Carrée: A Perfect Symbiosis Of Geometry, Nature, And Horology

The Fibonacci number sequence is a discovery of mathematics and nature that has both amazed and confounded the scientific community for centuries. And it is the inspiration for the stunning engravings on the unique La Rose Carrée, a masterfully restored grande sonnerie minute repeater pocket watch made to celebrate the twenty-fifth anniversary of Parmigiani and launched to mark the seventieth birthday of the brand’s founder and master restorer, Michel Parmigiani.

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price Time+Tide
Jan 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price

There is a reason why many microbrands choose a diver as their first offering. It’s a category of watches that is not only robust but offers the brand a platform to say a lot through its design. From the bezel to the case, nothing is off limits when it comes to creating a diver. Thus, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jan 25, 2022

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only

While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...

MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series Time+Tide
Jan 24, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series

The stars and navigation have always been linked. As a year progresses, certain constellations command the night sky, aiding those at sea with navigation. On a nightly basis, the position of the Big Dipper constellation can even help a navigator estimate the time of night. It’s this relationship, along with a Greek myth, that inspired … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Gravithin delivers a stellar performance with the ArgoMatic Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 23, 2022

The Horological Reason Behind The Rise Of The Super SUVs (Satire) – Reprise

There was a time when the walls of many children's rooms were decorated with images of iconic supercars cars like the Ferrari Testarossa, Porsche 959, Lamborghini Countach, and McLaren F1. Today those same walls in the rooms of a new generation of kids are decorated by a completely different type of car: the super SUV. Martin Green explains why in this satirical editorial.

New: Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games on Quick Takes Deployant
Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games Jan 22, 2022

New: Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games on Quick Takes

The new Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games is a limited edition of 2022 pieces and retails at S$2860. It is a colorful variant to an otherwise common dive watch design, and benefits from a rather robust 3-day automatic movement. Fit on a bracelet and water resistant to 300m, the watch is versatile and sporty, and rather ideal as a daily beater.

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01 SJX Watches
Breguet numerals so I was Jan 20, 2022

Up Close: Baltic Micro-Rotor MR01

A French micro-brand that specialises in watches with retro style, Baltic unveiled its smallest – and perhaps most classical – offering in October last year, the Micro-Rotor MR01. Coming in at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is no doubt a surprising size for a modern watch. Despite its compact size, the MR01 manages to squeeze in a lot relative to the price. Most obvious is a tasteful design that brings to mind gentlemen’s watches from the 1930s – the Calatrava ref. 96 easily comes to mind. But equally interesting is the slim automatic movement with a micro-rotor that is responsible for the elegant proportions (and affordability). Its combination of aesthetics and price meant the initial run of 200 pieces in each colour – “salmon”, blue, and a no-nonsense silver – quickly sold out. Of the three, the “salmon” dial immediately stands out, just because it’s the flavour of the dial for vintage-inspired dress watches. But when the opportunity for review came along, I opted for the silver dial, as I found the clean palette attractive. As pleasing as the MR01 seemed in photos, there were a few details I wasn’t convinced by, such as the wide bezel and applied Breguet numerals, so I was looking forward to wearing one for a few days. The all-silver is a good look and one often found on more expensive Calatrava-inspired watches such as the Naoya Hida NH Type 1B Initial thoughts After handling the MR01 for the first time, it seemed to be a thoughtful, comple...

Australian Open 2022: The Rado And TAG Heuer Watches Of Ash Barty And Naomi Osaka Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Watches Jan 18, 2022

Australian Open 2022: The Rado And TAG Heuer Watches Of Ash Barty And Naomi Osaka

Today Elizabeth Doerr highlights two of the world’s best female players and their current wristwear: world number one Ash Barty with her Rado HyperChrome Ash Barty Limited Edition (which also has a cool charity component built in) and last year’s Australian Open champion Naomi Osaka, who now wears the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Naomi Osaka Limited Edition.