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Portrait – Finnish Indie Watchmaker Pietari Kupias On The Launch Of His Atelier, And His Katedraali Watch Monochrome
May 28, 2025

Portrait – Finnish Indie Watchmaker Pietari Kupias On The Launch Of His Atelier, And His Katedraali Watch

Voutilainen, Sarpaneva, Laine… Just three names coming from Finland that have made an impact on independent watchmaking the world over. But it doesn’t end there, as recently we’ve uncovered young and exciting Finnish watchmakers like Kortela Valta and Reima Koivukoski. And there seems to be something special in the water in the “Land of a […]

Astronomical Exclusivity: Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona Watches With Meteorite Dials Fratello
Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona May 28, 2025

Astronomical Exclusivity: Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona Watches With Meteorite Dials

This year, Rolex introduced no fewer than eight new Daytona references, but only one made it to the brand’s press room during Watches and Wonders. The seven other iterations remained hidden. Luckily, a visit to the brand’s Brussels offices revealed that 2025 marks the year Rolex introduces three new Daytona watches in three gold alloys […] Visit Astronomical Exclusivity: Rolex Introduces Three New Daytona Watches With Meteorite Dials to read the full article.

Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch SJX Watches
May 28, 2025

Gunsmith Dewey Vicknair Returns with Second Handmade Watch

A year ago, we covered a self-taught watchmaker who built his first piece by watch, Dewey Vicknair. Now the American gunsmith has completed his second watch, a regulator with a jump hour function that’s once again hand-made. He published a comprehensive photo essay detailing the steps in manufacturing the watch, which is a worthwhile read for anyone interested in a contemporary, yet fully manual watchmaking process.  Initial thoughts The story of Mr. Vicknair is unlike most independent watchmakers. Now in his mid-fifties, he long ago built his reputation as a maker and restorer of firearms before turning to watchmaking. Self-taught, Mr. Vicknair is definitely a quick study; he adapted his metal-working skills to horology and produced his first watch swiftly. Even more interesting, perhaps, is the way he creates his own tooling. From a vertical drill press to various cutters and even custom tweezers for bending the hairspring overcoil, Mr. Vicknair seems able to build any tool to cater to his requirements.  Artisanal watchmakers usually use restored vintage machines when making watches, but it is very rare that they develop the tools themselves. Mr. Vicknair’s extensive experience as a gunsmith gives him an excellent understanding of machinery that cannot simply be taught in watchmaking schools. His work is clearly that of a very talented mechanical craftsman who just happens to have mastered watchmaking – after having mastered gunsmithing.  The watch itself is pre...

Hands-on – The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre, The Brand’s Latest and Stunning Monopusher Monochrome
Angelus May 27, 2025

Hands-on – The Angelus Chronographe Télémètre, The Brand’s Latest and Stunning Monopusher

For a retro-styled chronograph, the beauty lies in mechanical and historical details. With the new Chronographe Télémètre, Angelus again reaches into its storied archives to recreate the past and distil its essence into a remarkably fresh and undeniably refined timepiece. The latest addition to the La Fabrique collection, the Chronographe Télémètre debuts in three variations: […]

Hands-On With Two New Dial Variations Of The Sternglas Berlin Fratello
May 27, 2025

Hands-On With Two New Dial Variations Of The Sternglas Berlin

We have come to know Sternglas as a brand that predominantly creates watches within the minimalist Bauhaus style. Over the past couple of years, though, we have seen the brand push the boundaries of that aesthetic. One of the leading examples is the brand’s Berlin model. While the watch still ticks quite a few of […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Dial Variations Of The Sternglas Berlin to read the full article.

One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space Fratello
Omega May 27, 2025

One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space

Ten years ago, Omega introduced the Globemaster, the Seamaster 300 Spectre edition, and the white-dial Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 45th Anniversary limited edition. That year, Omega focused primarily on the Spectre and the Snoopy, neglecting to give the Globemaster the attention it deserved. Additionally, the Sedna (rose) Gold Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) did […] Visit One Of The Best-Kept Secrets: The Gold Speedmaster First Omega In Space to read the full article.

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Courtenay Adrian Ilbert – A Passionate and Meticulous Collector with an Extraordinary Dedication to Horology Worn & Wound
May 27, 2025

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Courtenay Adrian Ilbert – A Passionate and Meticulous Collector with an Extraordinary Dedication to Horology

“The Greatest Collectors of All Time” is a series of features that will look at what drives a collector to collect and how they go about seeking out items they want for their collections. Here we look back through time to highlight the greatest horological collectors and showcase their particular area and passion for collecting. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) was one of the most notable horological collectors of all time. He had the wealth, passion and enthusiasm that enabled him to amass an immense and varied collection. This was at a formative time when many unrecognized horological gems were coming to the market due to a developing appreciation of technical horology and world circumstances. His collection, known as the Ilbert Collection, included an impressive array of timepieces from the 16th century to his time, featuring some of the rarest and most exquisite watches, clocks, and horological instruments. Professionally, Ilbert was an engineer, and his technical knowledge informed his horological expertise. His engineering insights helped him appreciate the intricate workings of the timepieces he collected and restored. He was an extremely fine craftsman taking infinite patience in the matter of restoration and repair. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) Born in Reading, Berkshire during the Victorian era, on the 22nd April 1888, his family background provided him with the stability and resources to pursue an excellent education. From a young age, Ilbert ...

Celebrating Scott Carpenter’s Centenary With The Limited-Edition Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute In Platinum Fratello
Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 May 27, 2025

Celebrating Scott Carpenter’s Centenary With The Limited-Edition Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute In Platinum

May 1st, 2025, marked exactly 100 years since the late astronaut Scott Carpenter was born. During the Mercury-Atlas 7 mission in 1962, he orbited Earth three times. He did so while wearing a one-of-a-kind Breitling Navitimer that he ordered from Willy Breitling. He asked for a Navitimer with a wider bezel, a stretch bracelet, and […] Visit Celebrating Scott Carpenter’s Centenary With The Limited-Edition Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute In Platinum to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Bovet Récital 30, One of The Most Clever and Travel-Friendly Watches Ever Monochrome
Bovet May 26, 2025

Hands-on – The Bovet Récital 30, One of The Most Clever and Travel-Friendly Watches Ever

Pascal Raffy’s acquisition of the historical Swiss watch brand Bovet in 2001 was accompanied by an ambitious dream of reviving the brand as a temple of decorative arts and Haute Horlogerie. Towering above conventional watchmakers with its complex in-house movements, dramatically staged complications, and lavish artistic flourishes, Bovet’s watches are as unique as they are […]

Black Badger and Micromilspec Team Up for an Intergalactic Adventure, and a Limited Edition Milgraph Worn & Wound
May 26, 2025

Black Badger and Micromilspec Team Up for an Intergalactic Adventure, and a Limited Edition Milgraph

Micromilspec has been around for a while, and has carved out a niche for themselves by producing unapologetically tactical watches, often made in collaboration with military units all over the world. Their vibe tends to be somewhat serious, which is what you’d expect given the type of watches they make, and their focus on performance and durability. I mean, it’s all there in the name, right? “Micromilspec” conjures a certain idea of a watch in your brain, and it’s probably not, well, whatever it is that Black Badger has come up with for this limited edition.  Black Badger (otherwise known as James Thompson, the Chief of Materials at Arcanaut and the designer behind many lume forward watches over the years), has partnered with Micromilspec for a new take on their popular chronograph, the Milgraph. The so-called “Sabotage” edition of the Milgraph features healthy amounts of X1-grade Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands, for that signature Black Badger glow, but this is much more than a heavily lumed Milgraph. It’s a high concept art piece that imagines an entire alternate anime universe referenced in the watch as well as the little extras that come with it (a dog tag that has been laser engraved and blowtorch oxidized, which I think just means the guys lit it on fire). It’s way more playful and fun than what we’d typically expect from Micromilspec, but is somehow exactly what we’d expect from Black Badger.  The story Micromilspec and Black Badger h...

Rolex Wants To Control Everything - From Making Watches To Distributing, Selling, Servicing, Repurchasing, And Reselling Them Fratello
Rolex Wants May 26, 2025

Rolex Wants To Control Everything - From Making Watches To Distributing, Selling, Servicing, Repurchasing, And Reselling Them

Control. It’s all about control. If you’re not in complete control, others can and will mess things up, and you will be held responsible for it, resulting in a negative image. That’s one thing no luxury brand wants to have to deal with. That’s why Rolex intends to control everything, from creating its alloy to […] Visit Rolex Wants To Control Everything - From Making Watches To Distributing, Selling, Servicing, Repurchasing, And Reselling Them to read the full article.

Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus - May 26, 2025

Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now

It’s OK; you don’t have to like the Patek Philippe Cubitus - ever. You can carry your vitriol around like a badge of honor and scream to the heavens. That’s fine, but if you choose to do so, you’ll miss a pretty damn decent watch. We can agree that the 45mm original was and is […] Visit Hands-On With The 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus - The Hate Ends Now to read the full article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Review: Is This the Most Versatile Luxury Watch? WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Review May 25, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Review: Is This the Most Versatile Luxury Watch?

I took the latest Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds for a spin to see if it really lives up to the hype. Is it truly as versatile and elegant as it looks? Here’s everything you need to know! What We Love Fits perfectly, even on my smaller 16cm wrist size! This is a very versatile watch that can suit a variety of occasions and outfits. With its dual time functionality, it is also an ideal travel timepiece. The flip mechanism of the Reverso never gets old, it is just fun to see! What We Don’t The manual wound movement might not be for everyone in today’s automatic world. A 30m water resistance isn’t ideal if you want to use the watch as daily. Price point can be a little high, especially for newcomers to the Reverso family! Overall Rating: 8.6/ 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is a watchmaking icon that was born in 1931, created to meet the demands of British polo players who wanted a watch that could withstand the rigours of the sport. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ingenious design of a reversible case protected the delicate watch during matches, with the dial being turned over to “hide” from impact. The Reverso blended functionality with Art Deco elegance of the 1930s, leading to a timeless design. Over the decades, the Reverso has gone from being a practical sports watch to a symbol of sophistication, elegance and innovation in the world of horology. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ...

Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58? May 25, 2025

Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 (formerly “Fifty-Eight”) was a smash hit when it debuted in 2018. At Watches and Wonders this year, the winning formula received an update. For that reason, now is as good a time as any to consider picking up one of the previous versions on the used market. Tudor’s Black Bay […] Visit Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? to read the full article.

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors May 24, 2025

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed

Though it’s quite easy to forget this when looking at the watch world, sometimes less is more, and simpler is better. Simpler, however, is often much harder to get right. Poor design is easily covered in layers of otherwise unnecessary embellishments. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual presents simplicity at its very finest. Rolex added two new […] Visit New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Dial Colors You May Have Missed to read the full article.

Omega Relaunches the Railmaster in Two New Dial Variants Worn & Wound
Omega Relaunches May 23, 2025

Omega Relaunches the Railmaster in Two New Dial Variants

Originally released in 1957 as part of Omega’s “Professional Line” trilogy, the Railmaster joined the Seamaster and Speedmaster as the brand’s offerings to professionals in railway, automotive racing, and ocean diving, respectively. Where it lacked in naming convention creativity, the original Railmaster excelled in innovation, with anit-magnetic properties that were, at the time, jaw-droppingly effective, protecting the watch from magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss, where other pieces tended to cap out at 60 gauss. It’s no surprise, then, that the Professional Line trio has remained among Omega’s most popular and iconic models, and 2025 sees the launch of two new stainless steel Railmaster models.  Both new Railmasters measure in at 38mm in diameter and wear all-new gradient dials. The first variant bears no text details save for the Omega logo below the 12 numeral and the Railmaster name in script above the 6, with a gray dial that fades into a black gradient. The second option shakes it up with a beige-into-black dial that squishes the Omega logo and Railmaster logo together under the 12, and places a small seconds subdial above the 6. Both models feature Super-Luminova on the numerals, indexes, and hands, and come on a leather strap-black for the gray-to-black model and Novonappa brown for the beige-to-black version-or a stainless steel bracelet.    Inside, Omega’ Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 movement proves that it’s leaps and boun...