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Ming, How’s the Peeping? Introducing the 29.06 Peep Show Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin are 2 days ago

Ming, How’s the Peeping? Introducing the 29.06 Peep Show

Naming a watch is important. This goes without saying, probably, but it’s something we don’t really talk about or think about enough. Just last week I was having a conversation with a colleague about how unfortunate it is that Grand Seiko seems to keep missing the mark with naming conventions. With so many releases, it’s tough to keep individual reference numbers at the front of the mind, and “Tentagraph” has yet to permeate watch culture in the way the brand perhaps thought it would. Some brands have a knack for coming up with catchy and distinctive names for watches that both make a ton of sense and are easily remembered and associated with a given watch. The team at Ulysse Nardin are the kings of this. The Freak? The Super Freak?? The Blast??? All immediately iconic in my opinion.  Today, Ming joins the Watch Name Hall of Fame (side note: that’s an article idea we’ll be pursuing shortly, I’ve just decided) with the Peep Show. When the Ming team first showed us a prototype of the Peep Show at Geneva Watch Days last year, we were led to believe it was a working name, or a code word for a product that was not fully fleshed out. Obviously we all thought it was pretty amusing at the time. But just last month, during Watches & Wonders week, when I learned that Peep Show was indeed the official name of the watch, well, let’s just say I was surprised and delighted, because it’s honestly perfect.  What is the Peep Show, you might be asking yourself at this ...

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Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show" Hodinkee
Ming 29.06 Peep Show What 2 days ago

Introducing: The Ming 29.06 "Peep Show"

What We Know Want to see a magic trick? No, not the kind the Joker pulls in "The Dark Knight," but instead something pretty cool that Ming has cooked up with their new 29.06 "Peep Show." The watches below look markedly different, but the only thing that's changed is the direction the hands point. When Ming Thein showed me this watch last fall, I immediately got what was going on as he turned the crown. If you were doing the same, you'd see that the guilloché dial with a multiphase color-shifting coating (like on the 57.04 "Iris") slowly fades in and out of visibility, turning from a dazzling view to pitch black as the hands move. Any guesses on how it works? Well, it's kind of a trick question, because the hands aren't actually hands. Instead, they're polarized sapphire discs with a hands made of Super-LumiNova X1 fill. The two pieces of sapphire are linearly polarized, so when they're aligned (on top of each other or directly opposite each other), the polarizer lets light in, and you can see that metal disc with color-shifting treatment. As the hands rotate, you see less and less of the dial until it turns black when the two discs are at 90º to each other. When you learn the effect, it's pretty simple, but it's certainly effective in person. All this is in a 29-series case, which is a bit more reserved than the 57-series case. It's made in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, measuring 40mm by 11.8mm, with a 22mm lug width. The case has a 50-meter water resistance. Inside the ...

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Hands On: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final 2 days ago

Hands On: Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition

Urwerk bids farewell to the Spacemeter with UR-10 Spacemeter Blue Final Edition. As the final series of the UR-10, the 25-piece limited edition features a dark blue dial that differentiates it from the black and silver editions released previously. The watch is otherwise identical to its predecessors, and features an instrument panel-like display that tracks the progress of the Earth around both the sun and its own axis. Initial thoughts The ‘almost conventional’ display of the UR-10 represents a departure for Urwerk, which made its name in satellite wandering hours complications. Like the quirky and impressive EMC, the UR-10 proves Urwerk’s space-age aesthetic works in a variety of formats. But the Spacemeter’s time on Earth was relatively short, having been launched less than a year ago. The limited production of just 75 pieces (25 in each of three colours) should reward collectors, but I’m hopeful the ergonomic case and bracelet will come out of retirement to house different complications in the future. The UR-10 borrows a number of stylistic cues from the UR-100, but the case construction is entirely novel. The 45.4 mm case is essentially a bi-level construction — stainless steel on the bottom for a stable weight balance, and titanium on top for a continuous look from case to bracelet. The two materials contrast slightly on the winglets on either side of the case, where they are fastened with bolts. This construction is similar to that of the original Pate...

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Introducing – The Final Edition of the Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue Monochrome
Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue Urwerk 2 days ago

Introducing – The Final Edition of the Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Blue

Urwerk, the indie brand founded by Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner in 1997, is renowned for its futuristic, aerodynamic vessels with kinetic satellite hour displays.  In 2025, Urwerk released the UR-10 SpaceMeter, a watch that initially stumped fans with its round dial and conventional hour and minute hands. However, closer inspection revealed Urwerk’s fascination with […]

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First Look – The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in Navy Blue Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic 2 days ago

First Look – The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in Navy Blue

Rado’s foray into the world of dive watches in 1962 resulted in the Captain Cook, a somewhat quirky watch that didn’t emulate the rugged tool watches populating the underwater scene. Defined by its less utilitarian character, the Captain Cook had a compact 35mm case, an inward-sloping bezel, a domed acrylic crystal, a pivoting anchor at […]

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Hands-On: The Citizen Tsuyosa seconde/seconde/ Hodinkee
Citizen Tsuyosa seconde/seconde/ Collaborations are 3 days ago

Hands-On: The Citizen Tsuyosa seconde/seconde/

Collaborations are an established part of the modern watch cycle: a new model is introduced, colors follow, maybe a complication is added, and eventually a collaboration enters the mix, often positioned as a moment of creative divergence within an otherwise predictable trajectory. With the Citizen Tsuyosa seconde/seconde/, the brand hits that phase in a way that feels both familiar and slightly off-script. Collaborations are also never entirely expected, yet the best ones have such a natural fit that they rarely come as a genuine surprise. While they can serve to keep a collection feeling fresh, there's a sense that many collaborations struggle to reflect a true meeting of perspectives.  Instead, they can feel like extensions of ideas that brands are already circling, gently guided by an external voice to test whether something slightly unconventional might resonate. Too often, these ideas feel like early expressions that brands later refine and incorporate into their main collections. As such, limited editions can feel like testing grounds, and collectors, whether knowingly or not, become participants in that process. That dynamic can feel slightly hollow, as what was once framed as exclusive can quickly become part of a broader rollout, which is what makes what seconde/seconde/ feels notably different. Because if there's one figure consistently delivering something closer to a proprietary and fully authored take on collaboration, it's Romaric André of seconde/seconde/....

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Business News: The Importance Of Being Cartier Hodinkee
Cartier Among top-level mainstream Swiss-made 3 days ago

Business News: The Importance Of Being Cartier

Among top-level, mainstream Swiss-made watch brands, few can match Cartier's performance over the last half-decade. The Paris-based jewelry marque has vaulted ever higher to become the second biggest watch brand by sales, according to analyst estimates from both Vontobel and Morgan Stanley. While the jewelry unit of Cartier remains its primary driver, analysts say estimated sales from the watch division grew about 10% in 2025 to exceed CHF 3 billion, up from less than CHF 2 billion in 2019. What's perhaps more notable is the performance of Cartier's watch division relative to the broader market. As most brands have surfed the undulating wave of the post-COVID boom, followed by a downturn in demand, Cartier's watch unit has outpaced the market while remaining relatively affordable and accessible, with prices averaging about CHF 6,000 per watch and implementing lower price increases than most competitors, according to analysts. That has allowed Cartier to consolidate its position as one of just a handful of high-volume, long-established, and approachable-priced brands that are top choices on mainstream watch consumers' want lists, particularly among younger buyers.  Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir with oversized "XII". At the same time, Cartier has also grown in standing among watch enthusiasts and collectors, with prices for models on the secondary market gaining 8.6% in a year, according to WatchCharts.com's Cartier index. Auction results for vintage pieces have performe...

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SJX Podcast: Rexhep Rexhepi’s Vision SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi s Vision 3 days ago

SJX Podcast: Rexhep Rexhepi’s Vision

For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction. He also discusses the RRCHF’s in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were considered in its development. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition Fratello
Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir 3 days ago

Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition

Sometimes, you don’t want a color or a fancy finish on your dial, and occasionally, the second version isn’t always better than the first. That must be exactly what Ludovic Barrois from the French watch publication Le Petit Poussoir was thinking. That’s probably why, with his friend Guillaume Laidet, he released the Nivada Grenchen F77 […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nivada Grenchen × Le Petit Poussoir F77 Polar White MK1 Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Super Freak SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Super Freak Ulysse Nardin 3 days ago

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Super Freak

Ulysse Nardin (UN) celebrates 25 years of the landmark Freak with the aptly named Super Freak — a timepiece that pays homage to its predecessors while asserting its own distinct identity. Showcased at UN’s eccentric booth at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Super Freak was advertised as the most complicated time-only watch ever made — an ambitious claim that appears to be true.  Blending cutting-edge mechanics with an artisanal touch, the exuberant Super Freak comfortably reaches into the “hyper-watch” echelon, echoing the first groundbreaking Freak launched back in 2001. Ulysse Nardin also celebrates its 180th anniversary this year, so something extraordinary was to be expected.  Initial thoughts Even before going hands on with the Super Freak, just visiting UN’s booth at Watches & Wonders 2026 was an experience. Passers-by were greeted by two humanoid robots and a large sculpture of Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s head, with his eyes peering down over the proceedings.  The extravagant entrance hinted at the research-focused Super Freak, which looks and feels more like the product of some advanced laboratory rather than a 180-year-old manufacture. A very dynamic watch, the Super Freak’s face now more than ever resembles a space craft.  The Super Freak pays tribute to 25 years of the Freak while also adding something truly new to the mix. The result is the UN 252, the first Freak movement featuring running seconds and two flying tourbillons (2010’s Freak Diavolo was ...

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Introducing: The Two-Tone Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm 5 days ago

Introducing: The Two-Tone Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm

The dust may have settled from all the recent events in Geneva, but that doesn’t mean we’re done with new releases. Girard-Perregaux is embracing the warmer weather to come with a sporty new release. The Laureato Chronograph 42mm is a familiar watch, but this is the first two-tone model we’ve seen. Plus, it adds a […] Visit Introducing: The Two-Tone Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm to read the full article.

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Reviewing The Longines HydroConquest 42mm Edition WatchAdvice
Longines HydroConquest 42mm Edition 6 days ago

Reviewing The Longines HydroConquest 42mm Edition

With all the talk around the new Longines HydroConquest models, we thought it best to see for ourselves what the fuss was about. What We Loved The classic dive watch look The sliding micro-adjustment on the clasp Solid build quality What We Didn’t The longer lugs make it wear a little larger than the specs suggest The Bezel action could be a little smoother The sliding micro-adjustment could have 5 mm more worth (but I’m nit-picking here) Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Recently, Longines announced the new HydroConquest collection, and there was a fair bit of talk about the new pieces within watch circles. After all, the brand released a good-looking 300m dive watch in two sizes, several colour ways and two bracelet configurations, and all for A$3,375 or A$3,550 depending on the bracelet chosen. So, it was a watch we just had to check out in person. For this review, I’ll be testing out the 42mm model on the more traditional three-link bracelet, and in the blue colourway. Mario will be tackling the 39mm model in ice blue on the mesh bracelet in a week or two, as it does wear differently and is worthy of its own spotlight. And for the photo shoot, why not take the watches down to the beautiful Manly Harbour and the Manly Boathouse? It is a great backdrop given the pedigree of the Longines HydroConquest. Initial Thoughts I’ll admit, I was not sold initially on it. Why? Well, let’s address the el...

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In-Depth – The New Rolex Yacht-Master II ref. 126680 & 126688 – the Regatta Instrument Reimagined Monochrome
Rolex Yacht-Master II ref 126680 6 days ago

In-Depth – The New Rolex Yacht-Master II ref. 126680 & 126688 – the Regatta Instrument Reimagined

There’s always been something slightly paradoxical, if not vague, about the Rolex Yacht-Master II. In the brand‘s catalogue, year after year defined by a slow-paced evolution (quite unpredictable recently, though, as we have learned from experience) and exceptional commercial clarity, this watch has consistently stood apart. A large, complex and highly specific model, it is […]

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Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure Fratello
Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure 6 days ago

Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure

Collaborations in the watch world are nothing new. Usually, we see a watch brand team up with some other company, often resulting in a fairly gimmicky co-branding exercise. That approach doesn’t typically float our boat, to put it mildly. Today, we have something a bit different. What happens when two seemingly incompatible watch companies join […] Visit Introducing: The Unexpected Baltic × SpaceOne Seconde Majeure to read the full article.

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Baltic and SpaceOne Launch the Seconde Majeure SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Baltic 6 days ago

Baltic and SpaceOne Launch the Seconde Majeure

Baltic and SpaceOne have unveiled their first collaboration: the Seconde Majeure, an architectural time-only watch that employs a newly-developed jumping hours module developed by French independent watchmaker — and F.P. Journe Young Talent Winner — Théo Auffret. This collaboration was born from a meeting of the minds at Baltic’s offices more than four years ago when Mr Auffret first met Guillame Laidet. That encounter ultimately led to the creation of SpaceOne, an inventive entry level brand with space-age designs. From that chance meeting at Baltic, the two brands have teamed up on their first collaborative project. Initial thoughts On paper, these two brands are near-diametrically opposed. Baltic makes vintage-inspired watches in a traditional form, while SpaceOne takes a deconstructed and highly creative approach to watches that look like they’ve just fallen from orbit. What ties the two brands together for this collaboration is a friendship, and shared vision for how to bring thoughtful design to a lower price point. As the year unfolds, 2026 continues to feel like the year of the jumping hours watch. The Seconde Majeure is another watch reinforcing that trend, but it also taps into the growing desire for architectural watchmaking and hand finishing across wider price points in the market. In that sense, it reminds me of the Christopher Ward C12 Loco. Baltic and SpaceOne have taken an interesting path in bringing the Seconde Majeure to market, making it avail...

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Baltic and SpaceOne Collaborate on the All New Seconde Majeure Worn & Wound
Baltic 6 days ago

Baltic and SpaceOne Collaborate on the All New Seconde Majeure

It’s tough to think of two accessible indie brands that are more diametrically opposed in terms of their general aesthetic than Baltic and SpaceOne. One is focused largely on classic, vintage influenced designs, while the other is firmly contemporary, futuristic, even, and has made a name for itself by innovating new ways to make high end complications accessible. But they have similar sensibilities, I think, when it comes to widening the aperture of watch enthusiasm in general. They make it feel easy to break into a once difficult to access hobby with watches that are genuinely interesting and cool irrespective of price.  And so a collaboration between Baltic and SpaceOne (both French brands) is maybe not as absurd as it would appear at first blush. Their first watch made in partnership, the Seconde Majeure, takes elements of what makes both brands special and smashes them together in a very satisfying way. It’s one of the best watches I’ve had a chance to see so far this year (it was being previewed at Chronopolis in Geneva last month, and at our Windup event in San Francisco just last week).  The Seconde Majeure is designed around a jumping hour module designed by Theo Auffret with three visible components. A large minute disc sits atop a control wheel that makes a full rotation every 60 minutes, and provides a hand-free readout of the minutes from a central location on the dial. As the minute disc completes a rotation, it engages with a star wheel that has 12 t...

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Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida Worn & Wound
Ming Naoya Hida releases May 7, 2026

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida

One of my favorite days on the watch media calendar every year is the Naoya Hida preview day. Every spring for the last few years, watch media types make appointments at the Armoury on the Upper East Side to get a look at the upcoming Naoya Hida releases for the year. It feels like a very old fashioned way of doing things. Yes, there’s a press release sent out ahead of time, but Naoya Hida only makes one announcement like this per year – there are no mid-cycle drops or limited editions released to coincide with some later event. Members of the Naoya Hida team are present and there to explain the collection, piece by piece.  This year, Naoya Hida will produce a total of 10 models, 7 of which are new designs. We won’t go through each one here, but rather focus on the references that are completely new and those that have the most notable upgrades.  The reference that immediately caught my eye and was easily the most unexpected of the bunch is the new NH TYPE2C-2. To this point, Naoya Hida has really been defined, in my estimation, by their dial aesthetic, which prominently features elaborate hand engravings in the dial surface. It’s a very traditional and inherently ornate way to make a dial, and the execution is always top notch. It’s a type of craft that’s a true “IYKYK” proposition, though. From a distance the handwork on these dials might not be obvious, but they really come alive under close examination, especially under a loupe.  Anyway, the TYPE2C-2...

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Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Platinum (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns May 7, 2026

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Platinum (Live Pics)

What We Know There's just something about the Daniel Roth case that makes for an excellent watch. On the wrist, the ellipsocurvex shape sits comfortably between a round dress watch and a tank, and with the Extra-Plat case (extra-flat, in English) and slightly dropped lugs, it has incredible appeal once you put it on. Which makes it especially hard to convey that in text, but I'll try my best with the newest version that launched today, the Extra Plat Platinum model. I saw the watch a few months ago when the brand also announced the Extra Plat Skeleton, which was impressive in its own way. But I'd been waiting for a white metal Extra Plat since the brand relaunched (even though the price tag was bound to be outside my range).  The Extra Plat Souscription was announced only a little over a year ago, and the new platinum version is already the fourth variant in the lineup (yellow gold for the souscription, rose for the next, the rose gold skeleton, and now this). There are only so many ways you can play with the concept, but the details matter even more because of it. The Souscription, pictured below, had a tonal dial and case with blue printing and hands, a treatment I liked a lot. I actually asked whether the brand planned to take the same approach with the following releases, and the answer, at the time, was no. I think the result is, frankly, a bit more legible. For comparison, I'm showing them all below, and you get a taste of what the front and back look like at the sa...

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