Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Look Back At 20 Years Of The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain
Examining the broad scope of two decades' worth of design and editions for FPJ's most classic watch.
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Hodinkee
Examining the broad scope of two decades' worth of design and editions for FPJ's most classic watch.
Worn & Wound
Every few years, a new independent hits the scene with something that hits just the right notes to get all the factions of the watch world vibrating at the same frequency. However, no recent newcomer has managed to unite the watch echo chamber the way Swiss independent Berneron has. When Berneron unveiled their debut offering, the Mirage, in 2023, it was universally lauded as the most intriguing and refreshing new watch seen in ages. The Mirage was a legitimately unique take on upscale watchmaking, with a striking aesthetic and design narrative as unexpected as its asymmetrical shape and wildly ambitious bespoke movement. The Mirage’s styling was initially met with comparisons to the Cartier Crash, but the reality is its melted case shape was an elegant solution for housing the watch’s impressive mechanics–a case shrink-wrapped around a new caliber that was designed from scratch, free from the rules of traditional movement design. The Mirage was a helluva of a breakout hit; it had mystique, it was technically impressive, and it was different without resorting to arbitrary design choices. The Mirage’s success would be difficult to replicate, but with the Quantième, Berneron has both side-steped the sophomore slump and cemented the reputation of its founder and Creative Director Sylvain Berneron as a true visionary and a generational talent. The Quantième applies Berneron’s virtuosic technicality to a watch that embraces a more traditional look than the Mir...
Time+Tide
As we edge closer to the end of 2025 there is no slowing down in the watch world, with new openings and releases. The post End of year wrap ups, and Jaeger-LeCoultre moves in to Chadstone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I will be the first to admit that selecting the top watches of the year under, over, or between certain price points is an arbitrary exercise and perhaps not all that useful. Still, it’s the end of the year, and the end of year is all about list making (and reflecting on the last 12 months, making goals for the future – but mostly it’s about lists). Figuring out where the “value” is in the current watch market is a challenge, so setting the top price for the “Best Watches Under…” article does actually kind of mean something this year. One of the predominant story lines on our blog, in Instagram and YouTube comments, and at Windup Watch Fairs and other other meetups all year long has been price sensitivity. Specifically, that watches are far too expensive, and we’ve entered a period where you’re now expected to pay more, but receive less. That narrative makes a certain amount of sense when you examine specific sectors of the industry. But I think there are still pockets of great value and excellent design if you look for them and have a somewhat adventurous sensibility. As I looked back at some of my favorite releases of the year that represent what I think of as genuine value, it felt like the $4,000-$5,000 range was the sweet spot, with some great options well below that as well, and this list reflects that trend for the most part. I’ve tried to stick primarily to smaller makers, indies and microbrands, for the purposes of this particular list, b...
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko has a well known and understood design language that is expansive in nature. It’s a style that feels just as at home on a humble skin diver as it does in the context of a field watch or chronograph. It always feels comfortable, but never derivative. Like a perfectly well worn-in pair of jeans that you keep coming back to. The Speedtimer name is a perfect example of this originality since it was first used by the brand in 1969, and it largely remains so today. The modern Speedtimer SSC813 within the Prospex collection is not entirely reliant on that history, rather, it presents a contemporary vision of a Seiko chronograph at its most accessible. [toc-section heading="Seiko And Chronographs"] Seiko plays an important role in the history of the chronograph as we experience it today. The Japanese brand’s mechanical timers of the mid ‘60s showed off a modern vision for a highly focused design that would open the door for a new generation of watches. These designs did not use a host of subdials, but rather a single timing hand and a single pusher. This is a focus that would be retained until 1969, when Seiko introduced the reference 6139, one of three automatic chronographs to be revealed that year that would shape the genre for the coming decades. Unlike the other two, the Seiko used just a single subdial which would totalize up to 30 minutes. The 6139 would have a cultural impact just as big as its horological impact, appearing in films and, in the case of the so...
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SJX Watches
The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte (MdS4) is a limited-edition collaboration between the team at Monochrome Watches and Austrian independent Habring², built around the brand’s signature jumping seconds complication. Powered by the hand-wound A11S calibre, the watch reflects the marque’s focus on technically robust, thoughtfully refined movements and offers a straightforward value proposition. Limited to 33 individually numbered pieces and sold exclusively through a short souscription-style sales window, the MdS4 highlights both Habring²’s technical merit and Monochrome’s aesthetic sensibilities. Initial thoughts Richard and Maria Habring are outliers in the field of independent watchmaking. Among the sole guardians of the Austrian watchmaking tradition, the husband and wife team produce a range of deceptively technical (yet honestly priced) watches. This rare combination makes the brand’s watches appealing to many insiders like the team behind the Dutch website Monochrome Watches, that have just announced their latest 1930s-inspired collaboration. While the watch and its movement are the work of Habring², the team at Monochrome turned to designer and Time+Tide contributor Pietro Pilla for the Art Deco-inspired dial design. The discreet black dial features applied Roman numerals that alternate with delicate teardrop-shaped indexes, a choice that helps prevent the dial from looking too crowded. The printed railroad scale that rings the dial i...
Fratello
Our friends over at Monochrome and Habring² are building quite a history together. Their first collaboration, in 2021, celebrated Monochrome’s 15th anniversary. The online watch magazine and the Austrian watchmaking couple teamed up once more in 2023. Their sophomore release, a split-seconds chronograph, raised money for charity. Today, we get a third collaboration in the […] Visit Introducing: The Monochrome Montre De Souscription 4 By Habring² to read the full article.
Monochrome
For our fourth MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription, we are teaming up once again with independent Austrian watchmaker Habring², a brand dear to our hearts with whom we created our first MdS watch. Following the instant success of the Montre de Souscription 1, a monopusher chronograph with a salmon 1940s-inspired sector dial, we’re staying true to our passion […]
Monochrome
Month after month, the Swiss watch industry is experiencing stagnant sales and even a marked decline in exports to key markets. All voices – industry, studies – are turning to China to explain the current difficulties, praying for a rapid return to growth in the Middle Kingdom, after years of crazy growth. We have to […]
Fratello
The first thing that popped up in my head when laying eyes on the Spring Drive-powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 was “Root Beer.” The colors, shapes, and vibe make me think of that famous GMT watch made by The Crown. It’s a good thing this watch is designed for the U.S. […] Visit Introducing: The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Seiko has introduced the Prospex LX GMT SNR058, a luxury-leaning sport watch inspired by the constellation and intended exclusively for the US market. Executed in Zaratsu-polished titanium with Diashield coating, it pairs a richly textured gradient dial with a Spring Drive GMT movement more commonly associated with Grand Seiko. In doing so, the SNR058 blurs the line between Seiko and its grander cousin, inviting comparison not on branding, but on tangible quality. Initial thoughts According to Seiko, this US-exclusive special edition evokes the North America Nebula in the Cygnus constellation, named for its resemblance to the continent. It is, presumably, a coincidence that the dial also recalls a frosted glass of root beer; arguably a more recognisable symbol of the US market than any nebula. Regardless, either reading feels apt for a United States-only edition. On paper, the Prospex LX line blurs the line between the Seiko and its grander cousin. The collection holds up well next to similar watches from Grand Seiko, pairing a more assertive, utilitarian aesthetic with a more cohesive bracelet design. Branding aside, it also presents stronger value proposition thanks to its Diashield-coated titanium case and bracelet; the equivalent models from Grand Seiko come dressed in heavier stainless steel, which scratches (but can also be refinished) more easily. The Prospex LX GMT also benefits from a toolless micro-adjustment system for the bracelet, something increasingly sought...
Hodinkee
When the market demanded big watches, Patek held the course. Then, in its own time, the brand launched this maximalist, ultra-complicated watch that will define Patek's future.
Worn & Wound
A few years ago (almost two years to the day, in fact) I picked up my James Lamb Origin Series. It’s a watch I had become kind of obsessed with in the months leading up to my purchase, and I’m happy to say that two years into ownership, long after the supposed honeymoon period would have been due to end, I’m still every bit as excited about it as I was on the day it arrived. There are a number of reasons for which we might connect to any particular watch: the aesthetics, the way it wears physically, the way it makes you feel when you wear it, and certainly the philosophy of the maker or brand behind it. I found the Origin Series watches to not only be incredibly beautiful, but the idea that these were handmade objects, pieced together in the traditional way by true artisans was something that always excited me. Because of the handmade nature of Lamb’s work, that work is sometimes a little slow. He doesn’t participate in the traditional new watch release cycle that so much of the industry is beholden to. So I, along with many other admirers of his work, have been patiently waiting for whatever it is that would come next. Recently, we got our answer in the new Linea Edition. The Linea represents a fairly dramatic uptick in ambition for Lamb – this is not an iteration what we’ve already seen in the Origin Series, but something a little bit bolder. Still, it’s very recognizable as a “James Lamb” and adheres to the same underlying ideas that made those fir...
Teddy Baldassarre
As much as dive watches have become emblematic of the "sports watch" category, so too has the archetypal Rolex Datejust when it comes to the "everyday" category characterized by handsome looks that can rise to a formal occasion when needed and fit right in with a casual afternoon on the weekend. Pair with solid specifi
Time+Tide
Zach shares a summary of the “Ushering the New Age of Luxury” panel that took place at the FHH's New York Watch Summit earlier this year.The post NYU Stern professor believes “brand building, democratisation, and retail experience” are key bottlenecks for luxury watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Monochrome
The Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos was first introduced in 2019, a show of technical ambition with a hint at philosophical intent. It was (and still is) an impressive watch that provided an emotional and physical connection between the celestial and the terrestrial worlds. Its construction centred on the brand´s signature tourbillon setup, with the addition of […]
SJX Watches
In the run-up to the holidays, Seiko facelifts its high-spec, multi-function quartz watch with the Astron GPS Solar refs. SSJ039 and SSH187 - limited editions of its satellite-linked models. While not available in stores until January, the new references make their public debut almost exactly 56 years to the day when the original Astron, the world’s first quartz wristwatch, was launched on December 25, 1969. Initial thoughts Despite pioneering efforts to develop quartz watches in Switzerland, and the commercialisation of category-defining products like the Swatch, the alpine nation has tended to lag a step behind its rivals from the land of the rising sun when it comes to quartz technology. As quartz watches matured and the underlying technology became commoditised, much of the Swiss watch industry redoubled its focus on mechanical watches, seemingly content to cede quartz leadership to brands like Seiko and Citizen. For their part, the dominant Japanese brands have continued to develop quartz watches with conscientious enthusiasm, bringing solar charging, radio frequency and satellite-based connectivity, and ultra-precise oscillators to maturity. In that context, the Seiko Astron is the embodiment of more than half a century of quartz leadership, and combines several of the brand’s strengths in two distinct limited edition models. Though the four-figure prices may come as a shock to buyers more familiar with offerings from brands like Apple, Garmin, and Casio, the A...
Worn & Wound
When I started writing about watches for a living, it seemed like every watch was a dive watch. I’m only slightly exaggerating. Six years ago, we were entering the height of vintage dive watch reissue fever, and things have only begun to slow down on that front in a noticeable way in the last year, or thereabouts. So when it came time to look at the year in divers and pick the five best, surveying the landscape really drove home a few important points. First, dive watches are no longer the center of watch culture. I’m not exactly sure what is (but I have some thoughts, and we’ll get to them in a later article), but divers simply do not dominate the new release calendar or the thoughts and wishes of enthusiasts the way they did a few short years ago. The other realization I had in compiling this list is that the players in the dive watch landscape are shifting. Sometimes subtly and sometimes dramatically. The brands represented here (and, more apt, not represented) tell a big part of the story in dive watches in 2025. This year end list (and others you’ll see in these pages leading up to the end of 2025) is not meant to be exhaustive or definitive, but is more of a personal reflection on how I saw the year in a particular category. Don’t worry, you’ll get other perspectives soon from other members of our team. I specifically wanted to write about divers because, well, I’m not really a dive watch guy, and I thought it might be interesting and a fun challeng...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Heritage Classic Sector Dial has, in its relatively short time on the market, set itself apart from the rest of the Swiss brand's vintage-inspired Heritage series with its combination of retro charm, understated dimensions, and minimalist aesthetics, all at a very approachable price point, Here is a closer look at the watch, with a brief foray into other recent timepieces that just might have been inspired by its success. [toc-section heading="A Bit of Longines History"] Longines was founded in 1832 in the Swiss Jura town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and two partners. Agassiz (above, left) became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business, and shortly thereafter, he brought his nephew, an enterprising economist named Ernest Françillon (above, right), into the company. It was Françillon, in 1867, who moved all of the firm’s various watchmaking disciplines - which were scattered throughout dozens of independent workshops called établisseurs - under one roof, to a factory that was situated in a scenic area called “Les Longines” or “The Long Meadows,” thus giving the company its now-familiar name. In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass - today the world’s oldest unchanged, active logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Among Longines’ many milestones under Françillon’s management were the company’s ...
The holidays in the city demand a certain energy-bold, bright, and ready to move. The G-SHOCK G-STEEL GM5600M-1 fits right into that rhythm. Its iconic square silhouette gets a modern industrial upgrade with polished and textured bezel that plays perfectly against winter layers: think durable overcoats, chunky sweaters, and that just-right pair of boots you wait all year to break out. It’s the watch that looks at home grabbing a peppermint latte in SoHo, catching a cab on Fifth, or heading into a holiday party. If your style leans more analog, the GM2100M-1A delivers that sleek “holidays in the city” vibe on a different wavelength. The octagonal bezel and refined matte finish bring a clean, confident sharpness to any outfit-ideal for gallery hopping in Chelsea, slipping into your favorite speakeasy for a seasonal cocktail, or hitting a downtown dinner dressed for success. It’s the kind of piece that says you appreciate the iconic silhouettes, but live firmly in the present, grounding your fits with a little edge and a lot of character. The post Styled for the Holidays Lookbook with the G-SHOCK G-STEEL Series appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Hodinkee
A closer look at the fourth generation of Omega's modern dive watch, which was recently redesigned for 2025.
Teddy Baldassarre
The PRX stormed onto the scene in 2021 as an intriguing integrated bracelet watch at an approachable price point that had yet to be seen in the category. Four years, later, the Swiss brand has introduced what many would argue should have been offered all along: a sizing sweet-spot 38mm case in Titanium, or the surprise
Teddy Baldassarre
There comes a time in every watch-loving girl’s life in which she’s ready to take the plunge into the pool of luxury. To ascend from the endless eBay lowballing and bidding on eBay watches under 100 bucks, and start stashing away cash to save up for the big purchase. For the “future heirloom” watch that haunts her dreams. While that day has yet to come for me, I have amassed an ever-growing wishlist of pieces that might one day be my first, big watch splurge – once I stop dipping into the proverbial piggy bank, that is. Below, I have gathered what I believe to be the best luxury watches for women available today. Before we get into the fun part, I want to state first that I like to think of luxury as a state of mind. There are going to be some pretty “pie in the sky” watches on this roundup, which, no matter how frivolous I dare be, I will probably never be able to go into a store and purchase. But what we can distill from these extravagant, top-tier luxury watches is certain design codes, case shapes, and aesthetic choices that catch our eye, and bring us closer to finding a more reasonably priced option. If you, like me, cannot drop thousands of dollars on a watch without bringing shame and ruin upon yourself and family, think of this as digital window shopping. I have thrown some pieces on the list that are a little more reasonable as well, which to me, capture the essence of luxury and have made me feel luxurious while trying them on, in pursuit of maki...
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin’s luxury sports watch, the Overseas, has come a long way since its 1996 debut as the spiritual heir to the iconic 1977 reference 222. Now in its third generation, the Overseas is a versatile unisex collection with a wide range of case sizes, complications, and the brand’s winning DIY interchangeable strap/bracelet system. Just […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A hands-on review of the Citizen NY0040 diver, exploring its design, comfort, and why it stands on its own as a serious everyday tool watch.
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