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Brunch with H. Moser: the Pioneer Center Seconds Sunny-Side Up Worn & Wound
H. Moser Apr 18, 2025

Brunch with H. Moser: the Pioneer Center Seconds Sunny-Side Up

My favorite version of the H. Moser brand is the one that acts as a gentle troll in the watch community, and puts their idiosyncratic sense of humor on full display. Not every brand can get away with a watch made of cheese, or a watch seemingly made from the disparate parts of so many Swiss Icons. To be fair, some would say that even Moser can’t get away with it – their most provocative watches are their most divisive, and the haters have a loud voice on the internet. And while I have no desire to strap a block of Swiss cheese to my wrist, I enjoy the fact that a high end indie brand is willing to infuse some watch industry commentary into the watches themselves. Moser’s latest piece, the Pioneer Center Seconds Sunny-Side Up, is not likely to be as controversial as some of the brand’s other releases, but it’s hard not to see them edging into satire.  The cost of eggs, of course, has been on everyone’s mind. And the cost of watches, while not as universal a concern, has also been much discussed. So a watch from H. Moser that evokes an egg seems like a release meant to start a conversation. For the record, the retail price of the Sunny-Side Up is $15,900. The retail price of the first Moser Pioneer with a 40mm case introduced in 2023 was $14,200 at launch. A roughly 12% increase in price over a two year period is honestly not the craziest rate in the luxury watch industry. Egg prices? Between March 2023 and March 2025, the cost of a dozen eggs rose around 120% a...

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An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement Fratello
Rolex Dynapulse Escapement Rolex surprised Apr 18, 2025

An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement

Rolex surprised friend and foe with a new movement at this year’s Watches and Wonders. While that’s always a relatively big deal in our little horological sub-universe, caliber 7135 represents a particularly big milestone. Rolex developed a brand-new escapement dubbed Dynapulse. We felt it was about time we took a closer look at it. Of […] Visit An In-Depth Look At The New Rolex Dynapulse Escapement to read the full article.

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Jacques Bianchi Introduces the JB200 Aquastrike Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 17, 2025

Jacques Bianchi Introduces the JB200 Aquastrike Collection

I don’t know this for a fact, but I imagine it’s a real challenge to be a brand focused on dive watches in 2025. The dive watch is ubiquitous, and transcends the sport of diving. It’s become a shorthand for “sports watch” or “everyday watch” among many (but certainly not all) people who consume watches. And they are so simple, by design. The whole point of them is to be incredibly legible, reliable, and easy to use. Over decades, that’s translated to certain design codes that are just standard across the genre. Big lume filled hour markers, an easy to grip bezel, a robust and sporty case. Once you incorporate these necessities, it’s got to be tough to find ways to insert creativity and brand identity into a finished product. And then, of course, there’s the simple fact that many dive watch customers don’t even want brand identity or creativity in their dive watch, hence the enormous archive or articles on this very site and many others that seek to highlight innumerable watches that all kind of look alike.  This is all a big windup to say that Jacques Bianchi has figured out a way to put their own unique spin on the genre with every release. Their watches have a playfulness and romanticism to them that feels very much their own, whether it’s a fully lumed dial (which, OK, is common enough) or a SCUBA diver motif, there’s a sense of whimsy to their releases that is hard to ignore. Their latest collection, a reintroduction of the JB200 Aquastrike, ...

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First Impressions of the Zenith G.F.J. Worn & Wound
Zenith G.F.J Apr 17, 2025

First Impressions of the Zenith G.F.J.

A few months back I was given an opportunity to get a little preview of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders novelties in New York. More and more brands do this every year – it’s a great help to those of us in the media charged with photographing and writing about dozens upon dozens of new releases that all appear in the span of a few hours on an April morning in Geneva. So photographer Garrett Jones and I made our way to meet with our Zenith press contacts in midtown Manhattan, not knowing for sure what we’d see. In short order, the bright blue ceramic “Chronograph Trilogy” anniversary models were unveiled. In discussing the watches I casually mentioned that these would probably be a big hit at Watches & Wonders, and I must have inferred that these three watches would be this year’s halo pieces for the brand. I was quickly corrected, and told that there was something else coming that Zenith was holding back – the first watch in an entirely new collection – that would be a big surprise as we got closer to its release. I didn’t even try to elicit a hint about what it might be – I was happy to be surprised.  Eventually the press release for the new G.F.J. hit my inbox, and I was indeed surprised. While Zenith, as a brand, has always been quite chronometry forward, I had gotten into the habit of thinking of them as a sports watch brand. Yes, the movements are very good, but lots of brands have very good movements. I admit that the yearslong focus on building out ...

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Mido Multifort TV Big Date Review Teddy Baldassarre
Mido Apr 17, 2025

Mido Multifort TV Big Date Review

Of all the vintage-style watches that are all the rage today - and there are plenty of them - perhaps none are more charmingly retro in their appeal than watches with a soft-square “TV” case. Not only is the shape itself evocative of a bygone era in watch design, but even its descriptor is hopelessly dated. When was the last time, after all, that you encountered a TV set that actually had that shape? It’s similar to the way we still call our smart devices “phones,” even if we aren’t really making telephone calls on them much anymore. But I digress. The gist here is that Mido was one of the first watchmakers to lean into the “TV” shape for its timepieces, with its first one debuting all the way back in 1973 - that halcyon era when television screens were still square and families gathered around them to watch All in the Family, The Waltons, and Hawaii Five-O. In 2023, 50 years later and well into the modern era of flat-screens and video streaming, Mido brought back the TV case in an extension of its Multifort collection, first in all-steel versions and eventually in the rose-gold-PVD-coated steel model we showcase here.  The Multifort TV Big Date represents the latest intriguing evolution of the Multifort series, which is actually one of the brand’s oldest product families, the first model having debuted as early as 1934 - long before most American homes even had television sets, in fact. In addition to its three-part case, which measures an alm...

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Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Fratello
Apr 17, 2025

Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase

Brellum releases many small runs of watches during any given year, so I was surprised to find that it’s been nearly six months since our last review. Now we’re back with a look at the new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer. Yes, that’s a mouthful, but the welcome news is that the watch now […] Visit Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase to read the full article.

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Duke Ellington, the Cartier Tank à Guichets, and the Year of the Jump Hour Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank à Guichets Apr 16, 2025

Duke Ellington, the Cartier Tank à Guichets, and the Year of the Jump Hour

I’ve never bought a watch because it was worn by a celebrity. I generally don’t think that’s a wise reason to own a watch, and kind of goes against my general philosophy of collecting as an act of individual expression. Still, there are some watches where the association with a particular person either looms so incredibly large it’s impossible to ignore (the Paul Newman Daytona, I think, falls into this category), and others where the association may not be at the level of a household name, but is nonetheless fascinating and interesting. Duke Ellington and his preference for the Cartier Tank à Guichets falls into this category for me.  This is probably not the appropriate forum for an extended discourse on the importance of Duke Ellington to American music and culture, so we’ll do a short version. Ellington is universally regarded as one of the great American artists – he’s responsible for over 1,000 jazz compositions and was active over a 60 year period. Critics and experts in jazz and American music often mention him in the same breath as people like Mozart, which seems like a good place to be.  Duke Ellington, wearing a Tank a Guichets So, he’s one of the singular genius artists of his or any era. And, I dunno, it kinda seems like wearing the same watch as that guy would be pretty cool. From the time I started noticing watches on the wrists of notable people, the idea that the Tank à Guichets was Ellington’s choice has been a point of fascination. ...

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Be In The Breakaway With The New Bravur Team Heritage STR Fratello
Bravur Apr 16, 2025

Be In The Breakaway With The New Bravur Team Heritage STR

By now, Bravur, the watch brand from Båstad, Sweden, has created enough cycling-themed watches to provide the complete pro peloton with them. This is not a complaint or a snappy remark but a neutral observation. And from that observation comes enthusiasm. As a cyclist, I applaud a nicely done cycling watch. Now you can be […] Visit Be In The Breakaway With The New Bravur Team Heritage STR to read the full article.

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A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model Fratello
Zenith G.F.J 160th-Anniversary Model Apr 16, 2025

A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model

This year, many brands are celebrating different milestones. One of the most relevant anniversaries in 2025 is Zenith’s 160th, which you probably read about during Watches and Wonders. Although it is a significant milestone, Zenith treated us to a very select number of anniversary models during the fair. I can greatly appreciate that because it […] Visit A Closer Look At The Brand-New Zenith G.F.J. 160th-Anniversary Model to read the full article.

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First Look – The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Bell & Apr 15, 2025

First Look – The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm

Bell & Ross has never strayed far from its winning formula of aeronautical instrument-inspired watches. Brandishing the tagline “from the cockpit to the wrist,” Bell & Ross’s watches are loyal to the “circle within a square design” inspired by dashboard flight instruments. However, the brand has understood that to reach more customers, it needs to […]

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The Seiko King Turtle: Does This Budget-Friendly Diver Reign Supreme? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Apr 15, 2025

The Seiko King Turtle: Does This Budget-Friendly Diver Reign Supreme?

Japan’s Seiko has never been shy about going bold and unconventional with its designs, especially when it comes to its divers’ watches, a genre in which the brand has been an undisputed industry pioneer since the 1960s. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the so-called Turtle, which made its debut in the 1970s and has undergone a successful renaissance here in the 21st Century as part of Seiko’s rugged and sport-centric Prospex line. At the pinnacle of the Turtle sub-family, in terms of luxurious  finishing and dominant wrist presence, is the grandly named King Turtle, best represented by the Refs. SRPE03 and SRPE05 released in 2019. Here’s what you should know about them. By the time this watch’s ancestors made their debut, Seiko had already produced some highly unusual, unexpectedly iconic, and cleverly nicknamed dive watches, like the Ref. 6159 “Tuna” (for its chunky tuna-can-like case shape) and the Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” (thanks to its being famously worn by Martin Sheen’s character in Apocalypse Now.) The “Turtle” nickname first surfaced in 1976, applied to the References 6306 and 6309 - the former, made for the Japanese market, and the latter, for international customers. These watches were notable for their cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The Turtle gained a modicum of pop-culture visibility when actor Ed Harri...

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