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Geneva Watch Days 2026: the 10 releases worth knowing so far

From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph – Jul 17, 2021

Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph - Reprise

The first weekend of November 2016 was a big one for GaryG: in addition to attending the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, he collected not one, not two, but three spectacular watches. The watch he left home certain to bring back was one that he had been waiting patiently for since January 2016: the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370P from Patek Philippe. Here Gary explains why he bought it.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nick Kenyon says farewell, a new Zenith collection and making Sydney’s lockdown bearable Time+Tide
Zenith collection Jul 1, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nick Kenyon says farewell, a new Zenith collection and making Sydney’s lockdown bearable

After two of the most enjoyable years of my working life, today is my last day at Time+Tide. It’s a bittersweet feeling: bitter because of how I’ll miss the T+T team, but sweet with the knowledge that Time+Tide is in such a strong position as I say goodbye. I’m off to write about a wider … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nick Kenyon says farewell, a new Zenith collection and making Sydney’s lockdown bearable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Unveils the UR-220 SL Asimov in Carbon and Lume SJX Watches
Urwerk Unveils Jun 30, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-220 SL Asimov in Carbon and Lume

Launched last year, the Urwerk UR-220 ‘Falcon Project’ is a thinner, lighter, and manual-wind version of the watch kitted out with the brand’s trademark satellite-cube display. Now Urwerk has launched the first iteration of its flagship model, the UR-220 SL Asimov. Dressed up with a generous dose of glow-in-the-dark Super-Luminova, the UR-2202 SL has the satellite cubes made of resin infused with Super-Luminova, so each cube glows in its entirety. The luminous display partly explains the name of the watch, which is a reference to Nightfall, the novel by Isaac Asimov about a planet in perpetual daylight that finally experiences night – which brings madness and catastrophe. Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, the inventive duo behind Urwerk have long had a distinctive brand of humour. Initial thoughts Often matched with an all-black case, a stylised display in yellow-green lume has long been a key part of Urwerk’s aesthetic, especially for its satellite-cube display watches starting with the UR-201. That makes the solid, lume cubes a coherent addition to the UR-220, both philosophically and stylistically – they are a perfect fit for sci fi-techno style of the watch. Admittedly, the luminous cubes are not a major innovation, but they add almost nothing to the price of the watch. The UR-220 SL Asimov is just CHF2,000 over the standard UR-220 – modest for an upgrade that boosts the visual appeal of the watch. Nevertheless, the novelty of the lume cubes will wear ...

Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too Time+Tide
Swatch Jun 21, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too

If you’ve already turned your horological nose up at the S word in the headline above, please remind yourself of the title of this column. T&T; teems with timepieces that will set back four, five and even six figures – if that’s you, congrats on the start-up/inheritance/proceeds of crime. If, however, you feel like adding … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021 Patek Jun 17, 2021

Highlights: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021

Patek Philippe went big at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition that just opened at its Geneva Salon. The watchmaker unveiled  the 75 timepieces of this year’s Rare Handcrafts collection, along with as many more from last year’s line up that is on show for the first time, since the 2020 exhibition was cancelled. The most accessible watches of the collection, relatively speaking, are the complicated watches that will join the regular catalogue, which include a trio of chiming watches, from the graceful minute repeater for ladies to the new Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R But it is the rest of the Rare Handcrafts collection that capture the creativity and diversity the brand’s metiers d’art. Each unique, the watches and clocks are mechanically uncomplicated, and instead use the dial and case as a canvas to showcase exquisite, vivid depictions of animals, landscapes, and art with a variety of artisanal techniques. Here’s a selection of a few standouts from this year’s collection, all one-off creations that are expensive but usually sold in advance, so most will be dispatched to their owners after the exhibition. Dome clocks One of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive timepieces is not a watch, but the round-topped table clock. A fixture in its catalogue for decades, the Dome Clock is produced in small numbers every year, typically with its exterior panels decorated in enamel. This year’s Rare Handcrafts catalogue includes...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G

Patek Philippe keeps up the pace with the fourth instalment of new releases for the year, which were just announced at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva. While most of the watches at the exhibition are one-offs bestowed with colourful, artisanal decoration, the line up includes an ensemble of repeating watches, led by the flamboyant Sky Moon Tourbillon in pink gold and brown. Simpler, at least relatively speaking, is the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G that packs a pair of high-end complications fronted by a blue, grand feu enamel dial. Initial thoughts Today’s launches stand in stark contrast to the brand’s hottest watches of the moment – the sports watches that are arguably its most recognisable products now – that were its opening act for the year. Patek Philippe launched a slew of exquisite, highly decorated timepieces today, affirming its twin strengths – haute horlogerie and metiers d’art. The generous array of Rare Handcrafts, along with the fact that several are chiming watches, is a reminder that Patek Philippe is more than a faddish, integrated-bracelet sports watch. That said, the ref. 5374 is not entirely new (neither is the flagship Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R). In fact, the only truly new reference amongst the Rare Handcrafts complications is the Ladies Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G. The ref. 5374 was first introduced in 2016 with a platinum case and black enamel dial – a formal, classical package. Now it ge...

Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ - an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer Time+Tide
Jun 15, 2021

Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ - an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer

The watch industry has always had a charitable streak, but never as conspicuously as it does today. Charity auctions have been a key part of the industry’s calendar for years, with the Only Watch Auction that raises money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, earning headlines for the watches if offers and the money it contributes. Lately … ContinuedThe post Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Introduces the NASA Space Collection SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 2, 2021

Swatch Introduces the NASA Space Collection

Shortly after launching the Earth-friendly Big Bold Bioceramic made of plant-based plastic, Swatch is venturing off the planet and towards the stars with the Space Collection. A line of five watches conceived in collaboration with American space agency NASA, the Space Collection is inspired by NASA’s colours and spacesuits. It is made up of a trio of extra-large Big Bold watches with Bioceramic cases, along with a pair of more classical Gent models in regular plastic. Old school Swatch: Space Race (left) and Take Me to the Moon. Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of Swatch and own several, including the MoMA “Starry Night” launched last month. The brand is often neglected by enthusiasts because of its fun and low-cost watches, despite Swatch having played a pivotal role in keeping Swiss watchmaking going during the Quartz Crisis. In fact, Swatch was crucial enough that its parent company renamed itself Swatch Group, despite owning brands like Omega and Breguet. It comes as no surprise that I like the new Space Collection, especially the Big Bold models. The Space Collection represents Swatch doing what it does best – offering fun, interesting timepieces at an accessible price point. In fact, the Space Collection models are likely the most affordable NASA-endorsed watches on the market. To put things in perspective, even the top-of-the-line Big Bold Chrono is cheaper than Omega’s NASA velcro straps. Starting at US$125 for the time-only version – the line up in...

Did you catch the surprising Omega that Justin Hartley wore to the MTV Movie & TV Awards? Time+Tide
Omega May 17, 2021

Did you catch the surprising Omega that Justin Hartley wore to the MTV Movie & TV Awards?

Nope, it’s not another Speedmaster. At the MTV Movie & TV Awards this weekend, Justin Hartley best known for his work on the hit show This is Us (as well as playing Oliver Queen / The Green Arrow in Clark Kent / Superman origin series Smallville), presented the award for best action hero with co-star … ContinuedThe post Did you catch the surprising Omega that Justin Hartley wore to the MTV Movie & TV Awards? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite SJX Watches
Ming ly massive diameter May 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite

Having introduced the oversized Big Bold in bright, funky iterations such as the Jelly Fish Neon, Swatch is now going minimalist – and green – with the Big Bold Bioceramic. Clad in solid, pastel colours, the Big Bold Bioceramic is clean and coherent. Though simple, it manages to be interesting in both style and materials. The open-worked dial reveals some of its mechanics, while the case is composite of ceramic and plastic made from plant matter. Initial thoughts For those who appreciate the bold presence of large watches like the Royal Oak Offshore, the Big Bold is a lot of fun at a far more accessible price. So when the Big Bold was launched a few years ago, I very much liked the idea of a 47 mm plastic watch. But I found the earlier iterations to be at either extreme – too funky or too plain. The latest version, however, lands in the sweet spot for me. Vibrant in colour – especially in “power pink” or sky blue – but pared back in design, the new Big Bold also has an open-worked movement that’s intriguing despite being quartz. And the new “bio-sourced” material also adds to the appeal, as does the fact that it only costs a bit over US$100. The Big Bold is ergonomic, despite the seemingly massive diameter. With almost non-existent lugs, its lug-to-lug span is a mere 44.8 mm, a length more commonly found on watches with a diameter of around 36 mm. Despite the wide case, it wears well on most wrists, without a significant overhang on either side of the w...

Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much Time+Tide
Swatch Apr 17, 2021

Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much

Sometimes a professional rivalry gets personal. Grievances build up, eyes narrow and suddenly it all explodes into a fireball of drama and animosity. Something like that is now raging between Apple and Swatch in a long-running feud that, from the outside at least, seems petty, vindictive and wildly entertaining.   The two companies just keep … ContinuedThe post Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Eight-Day Jump Hour SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Apr 3, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Eight-Day Jump Hour

A watchmaker with many excellent movements – and some exceptional calibres – Chopard is instead better known for its jewellery watches or auto-racing chronographs. Now Chopard keeps at its, and has just added to its list of excellent movements with the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Conceived to mark the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C line – made up of the brand’s high horology offerings and named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard – the Quattro Spirit is its first jump hour. Dressed up with a fired enamel dial, it is powered by an impressive and refined eight-day movement. Initial thoughts An instinctively appealing watch, the Quattro Spirit is good looking and size well; most notably, the movement is interesting. While jumping hours isn’t particularly complicated, the leap of the digital display on a mechanical watch is still an intriguing sight. Add to that four barrels that supply a run time of eight days, the cal. L.U.C 98.06-L becomes even more compelling. Assembling one stack of twin barrels Notably, even with the long power reserve, the watch remains relatively compact, just 40 mm wide and 10.3 mm tall. That’s thanks to a clever optimisation of space, with the movement relying on twin stacked barrels, with each stack containing two mainsprings connected in series. Priced at a bit under US$45,000, the Quattro Spirit costs substantially more than other L.U.C watches with the same eight-day base movement without the jumping hours. In fact, the addition of the jump ...

New And Nostalgic: Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph In Lime Gold And 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 In Bronze Half-Hunter Case Quill & Pad
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Mar 30, 2021

New And Nostalgic: Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph In Lime Gold And 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 In Bronze Half-Hunter Case

The new Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 vibes in a decidedly cool color scheme dominated by proprietary Lime Gold, while the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 comes in a bronze case oozing with the warm look and feel of a gold-colored material of bygone days. Both look great, and Sabine Zwettler is still not sure which version she finds more appealing.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Day Masterpiece is a bejewelled head-turner in a platinum case Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Mar 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Day Masterpiece is a bejewelled head-turner in a platinum case

While Grand Seiko watches invariably have more of a claim to being works of art than practically all other brands at their price point (and beyond), the Grand Seiko SBGD207 is on a whole other level. Masterpiece is not a term the brand throws around lightly. The Masterpiece collection within Grand Seiko’s catalogue represents their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGD207 Spring Drive 8 Day Masterpiece is a bejewelled head-turner in a platinum case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN - THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team! Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Olive dials Mar 18, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN - THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team!

Sometimes when I sit down on a Friday afternoon with a beverage of some description (today, an ‘Almond Negroni’ my colleague Matt claims he invented) to write the Friday Wind Down, I need to pause for a moment to consider the theme of the week. Not this week. This week, everywhere I look, it’s green, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage SLGH007 in Platinum SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Feb 26, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Heritage SLGH007 in Platinum

Twenty twenty-one is a celebratory year for Seiko, which marks its 140th anniversary. Amongst the slew of watches launched for the occasion is the posh but stealth Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary (SLGH007). Cased in platinum and equipped with new 9SA5 movement, this is one of two platinum watches commissioned for the occasion, but unlike the Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days that’s extravagantly set with diamonds and garnets, the SLGH007 is discreet, and even slightly intriguing with its tree ring-patterned dial. Initial thoughts Translating local flora and fauna into dial designs is a Grand Seiko specialty – which it named “The Nature of Time” – typically in the form of a stamped, patterned dial inspired by nature around its factories. But despite being one of many inspired by similar themes, the SLGH007 manages to stand out. The pronounced grain on the dial is not only new, but also diverges from the usual styling. Most patterned Grand Seiko dials rely on repeating patterns on a smaller scale, while the tree-ring dial has large, obvious figuring that forms a distinct landscape. And its charcoal-black finish makes it even more special – standing in contrast to the brighter colours Grand Seiko now favours – especially when matched with the platinum case. The result is a watch that’s low-key but stylish, and reminds me of the similarly-dressed Lange 1 “Darth”. The SLGH007 also has solid mechanics: it’s the fourth Grand Seiko to...

Swatch and MoMa Debut Special Edition Collection SJX Watches
Swatch Feb 23, 2021

Swatch and MoMa Debut Special Edition Collection

Translating works of art into eminently affordable and wearable timepieces has long been a Swatch speciality, since the brand’s founding in fact. More recently, Swatch worked with the Keith Haring Foundation on a Mickey Mouse-themed collection. And its latest venture is a tie up with the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Swatch X MoMA is a collection of nine watches, each featuring paintings from the collection of the New York institution. Six watches will be available globally, either singly or as a limited-edition set, with the balance being customisable via the Swatch X You platform. The carefully curated selection of artwork spans the 20th century – save for Van Gogh’s The Starry Night of 1889 – creating a line up of watches that are each vastly distinct in style, and also in size, making each model unique. From left: The Dream; The Starry Night; The City and Design, The Wonders of Life on Earth, Isamu Kurita; New York; Composition in Oval with Color Planes 1; and Hope, II Initial thoughts Swatch x MoMa was launched virtually by a team drawn from both the watchmaker and museum – their passion and knowledge as they related the stories behind the project amazed me. Despite being extremely affordable watches, it is clear that a tremendous amount of passion and collaboration went into the development of the watches. And the result is rightly compelling. The entire watch, and not merely the dial, is the canvas, creating a flow of colour from end to end. But the pa...

The new Swatch x MoMA releases offer fresh proof that watches can be a work of art Time+Tide
Patek Philippe World Time or Feb 19, 2021

The new Swatch x MoMA releases offer fresh proof that watches can be a work of art

When you think of art in watchmaking, your mind probably turns to the painstaking creation of a cloisonné enamel dial for a Patek Philippe World Time, or the engraving of an A.Lange & Söhne balance cock. But art in watchmaking suddenly got a whole lot more accessible thanks to the Swatch x MoMA collection that … ContinuedThe post The new Swatch x MoMA releases offer fresh proof that watches can be a work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTERVIEW: “We squandered world domination.” Roger Smith says British watchmaking deserves a new dawn Time+Tide
Ming Jan 27, 2021

INTERVIEW: “We squandered world domination.” Roger Smith says British watchmaking deserves a new dawn

Let me start by saying the headline is paraphrasing master watchmaker, and OBE, Roger Smith, and a contraction of two statements. The first is that Britain “had a great history [in watchmaking], and we squandered it.” The second is his statement that “for a couple of hundred years, we had world dominance.” Assuming that you … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: “We squandered world domination.” Roger Smith says British watchmaking deserves a new dawn appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Jan 25, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder

Blown away by the first picture in the press release. Where to start? I’ll be honest with you, while we want to share the news from the LVMH Watch Week as soon as it comes out, it does create the luxury of frustration, very apparent in this story on the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Magic Gold weaves a golden web to trap you in a world of micro-mechanical wonder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kicktock: Hublot’s street-tough dial made from concrete meets its match with New Balance Time+Tide
Hublot s street-tough dial made Dec 15, 2020

#Kicktock: Hublot’s street-tough dial made from concrete meets its match with New Balance

This week we go monochrome in the urban jungle, with the new Hublot Classic Fusion Concrete Jungle New York and an awesome pair of New Balance trainers just dropped on Hypebeast. The gritty edge of concrete is just as fresh as a splash of colour and Hublot’s avant-garde touch is very much present in the … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: Hublot’s street-tough dial made from concrete meets its match with New Balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.