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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Apr 25, 2022

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review

The Watch That Changed My Mind On TAG! What we love: Comfortable and easy to wear, light for its size and specsBang for buck in finish, movement and specsGood looking design with vintage ques What we don’t love: Wears on the larger size for a 42mm mainly due to its heightNoisy movement and winding rotor (some may like this though)Some wearers may find the dial harder to read at a glance with the lack of contrast in the numerals Overall rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5 / 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Tag Heuer has always been one of those brands that never grabbed my attention. I always saw it as a watch brand that was a little overpriced, and like a lot of brands, you’re paying for more marketing than the watch itself. Now, I have owned a Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer01 in the past, so I’m not adverse to TAG at all, but it has since moved on to make way for others in my collection. So when I had the opportunity to get my hands on the new 60th Anniversary limited edition Autavia Flyback Chronograph, I was looking forward to road testing the latest iteration of the distinguished Autavia line. A Short History Lesson Before we go any further, let’s take a step back and in case you’re not familiar with the Autavia model and its history, here’s a quick refresh. The Autavia wristwatch collection, the first product launched under the leadership of Jack Heuer 60 years ago, got its name from two pillars of TAG Heuer’s history: Automobile and Av...

The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing Apr 12, 2022

The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition

When a compact and classically dimensioned watch is debuted, a tiny-wrister bat signal is lit high in the sky for me to rush and cover it. Look, in journalism we have to remain objective, but this release hits home for me on a personal level and, based on your comments on social media, for many … ContinuedThe post The new 36.5mm Grand Seiko SBGW289 has fans rejoicing at the possibilities beyond this kira-zuri cherry blossom limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Inside the Bremont x Williams event for the Australian Grand Prix Time+Tide
Bremont x Williams event Apr 12, 2022

Inside the Bremont x Williams event for the Australian Grand Prix

The Bremont boutique in Melbourne is nestled within the halls of St. Collins Lane, a shopping arcade in the heart of the city centre. Last Thursday, just 2.6 kilometres to the south, thousands of people from mechanics and volunteers to journalists and spectators began to swarm upon Albert Park Lake for the very first day … ContinuedThe post Inside the Bremont x Williams event for the Australian Grand Prix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces the New Navitimer B01 in 41, 43, and 46 mm SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Apr 11, 2022

Breitling Introduces the New Navitimer B01 in 41, 43, and 46 mm

Distinctive for its slide-rule bezel, the Navitimer is synonymous with Breitling. Having been in near continuous production since its introduction 70 years ago, the Navitimer has been offered in a bewildering array of iterations, but the 2022 Navitimer B01 returns to the roots of the model with a vintage-inspired design, but livened up with bright, metallic dials. Initial thoughts If you already like the Navitimer, the 2022 version is an appealing proposition. It’s essentially the traditional Navitimer design with Breitling’s in-house chronograph movement that has an excellent construction. The model is consistently priced given the in-house movement, while the design has enough vintage elements to give it a classic Navitimer feel. The dial colours, however, are modern, so this avoids being a vintage remake (which Breitling has done enough of). Of the three sizes, the 41 mm is identical to the vintage original, so it’s probably the perfect size. The 43 mm is probably still acceptable on most wrists, but the 46 mm will be enormous. If there is to something to criticise it is probably the wide range of models – two case metals, three case sizes, and a dozen or so dial types, though not every dial is available in every size. The number of choices feel too ambitious and confusing for a launch of a new model. Throwback design The new Navitimer is the first redesign of the model since current chief executive Georges Kern took the helm of Breitling in 2017. Unsurprisingly...

VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man Time+Tide
IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr Apr 2, 2022

VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man

“Look how fast Chris Grainger-Herr walks!” Andrew exclaims at one point in this video as he follows the IWC boss into his booth. It’s a throwaway line but it’s actually instructive, because Chris would appear to be the watch world’s most energetic man. His exploits yesterday offer the perfect example. One moment he’s casually welcoming … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin s new releases Apr 1, 2022

VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases

In this video, Jeremy and Zach take a look at Vacheron Constantin‘s new releases and one of the immediate highlights: the Historiques 222. You might remember this story from last year where a Time+Tide reader spoke to us  about finding a Vacheron Constantin 222 in his sock drawer that turned out to be worth a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The return of the 222 – our first take on Vacheron Constantin’s new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms Time+Tide
Doxa Whitepearl expands into multiple Mar 31, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms

Following the resounding success of the entry-level SUB 200 Whitepearl colourway, DOXA applies a lick of fresh white paint across its model range. Spanning five different models, the white colour departs from the usual neon we’ve grown accustomed to from DOXA, for a more classic, yet ever-legible, look. SUB 300 Carbon COSC Whitepearl A 42.5mm … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS – It’s a whitewash! The DOXA Whitepearl expands into multiple forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269

Continuing its evolution from military watchmaker to one with a broader and civilian repertoire, Panerai introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269. A variant of the minimalist Luminor perpetual calendar first unveiled last year, the PAM1269 has a dial made of tinted sapphire that reveals the concentric calendar discs underneath. And like many recent Panerai limited editions, the PAM 1269 is accompanied by an “experience”, in this case a trip to Florence (plus an NFT). The reverse of the watch includes the year and month displays, along with the power reserve indicator Initial thoughts If I were to just skim through the new watch releases of the year, I would have missed this Panerai because at a distance, it looks like any other Panerai. But it is more than that. Apart from being just a smartly conceived perpetual calendar, the watch includes an all-expenses-paid trip to Florence curated by Panerai. Given Panerai’s historical connections to Florence and its status as a leading luxury watchmaker, I imagine the trip would be filled with experiences impossible to obtain otherwise. The dial is open-worked yet highly legible Putting the trip aside, the watch itself is a marvel of clarity – a lot of information is displayed on the front and back in a manner as minimal as possible. The comprehensive display includes a second time zone and four-digit year indicator. Notably, the indicators on the front are also linear – everything is contained on a h...

Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise

After having reimagined signature models like the Tank Cintree and Tank Asymetrique, Cartier now turns it attention to something less well known. The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise arrives just in time for the 100th anniversary of the original Tank Chinoise, which was inspired by traditional Chinese architecture. Unlike past Cartier Privé models that adhered closely to earlier versions of the model, the new watch takes more liberty in reimagining the Tank Chinoise, which was last available in 2004 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). A 1930 Tank Chinoise of the type that inspired the 2004 CPCP version Initial thoughts For fans of the 2004 Tank Chinoise, which was very square yet made up of rounded edges and lines, the new model will be jarringly different with its angular form. Yet for anyone who appreciates a traditional Tank, the new Chinoise is more like a Tank than any past version of the design. I like the redesigned case. Where I would have wished for something different is the dial, which repeats the same elements found in past Cartier Privé models; a bolder dial would have gone better with the restyled case. However, Cartier certainly went all out with the skeleton version, which is striking and original. It comes close to being too much with its Chinese-inspired motifs, but not quite, so it still looks and feels tasteful. Allongée The new Tank Chinoise is akin to a Tank Allongée – it’s an elongated version of the earlier CPCP Tank Chinois...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja Time+Tide
Seiko Black Series makes Mar 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja

It should come as no surprise that a second round of additions to Seiko’s Black Series have arrived, given the instant success of the first few watches. The series perfectly pulls off that stealthy, tactical look without sacrificing legibility or needing third-party modifications, and the four new watches are each full of character that will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Mar 17, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch

It’s not often that a 90th anniversary is celebrated with as much grandeur as say a 50th for example, but Jaeger-LeCoultre like to celebrate a little bit differently. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième marks 90 years since the introduction of their incredible rectangular flipping watch that has remained relevant throughout every trend and fashion of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is a fitting birthday celebration of a truly classic watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Formula 1 Season Preview – The cars, the watches, the sponsors (Part Two) Time+Tide
Mar 17, 2022

Formula 1 Season Preview – The cars, the watches, the sponsors (Part Two)

There are unlimited ways for Formula 1 to be a ruthless sport, for teams, drivers and fans alike. While fame and glory might seem like the biggest motivator for the drivers, money is always the biggest carrot for the teams. A single point can make the difference between tens of millions of dollars in prize … ContinuedThe post Formula 1 Season Preview – The cars, the watches, the sponsors (Part Two) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain Time+Tide
Norqain I have been saying Mar 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain

I have been saying for a while that I needed to look into Jean Rousseau straps for my own watches, so when the NYC Watch Crew enthusiast and collector group pinged me, letting me know the next meet up would be at the Jean Rousseau boutique, I was immediately excited. Jean Rousseau are known for fabricating … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Spending time with Jean Rousseau and brunch with Norqain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) Time+Tide
Mar 6, 2022

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags)

Editor’s note: They’re the questions we all ask ourselves when contemplating a new mechanical watch: is it worth it? Is that price-tag truly justified?  Here’s Justin’s excellent piece offers some pointers on what to look for and what separates fine from very fine watchmaking. It’s a question many of us in the industry get on a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel Time+Tide
Feb 28, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel

How on earth can anyone be expected to choose their next watch these days? It almost seems like there are hundreds of new Kickstarter microbrands popping up each month, each with their own unique quirks that make them seem irresistible to people wanting to fill niches in a collection. Héron Watches are a refreshing change-up, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Héron Gladiateur delivers tough, Spartan looks elevated by a cracker of a bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock SJX Watches
Feb 27, 2022

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock

German independent watchmaker Rolf Lang produces both wristwatches and clocks – including a lavish gold egg containing a marine chronometer – and he now turns to French glassmaker Lalique for his latest sculptural clock. Their collaboration resulted in the Phoenix Clock that is entirely hand engraved and equipped with a gigantic tourbillon – held aloft by a glass-crystal sculpture of a soaring eagle with wings spread. Rolf Lang Initial thoughts Like the ultra-luxe egg clock of 2018, the Phoenix is appealing for its strong design and craftsmanship. The father of independent watchmaker Marco Lang, Rolf Lang’s house style is highly decorative and rooted in 19th century watchmaking so the aesthetic means the clock is not for everyone, but it is certainly impressive for those who appreciate what it is. With its ornate decoration, the Phoenix evokes the elaborate clocks and watches made for the Chinese market in the 19th century. It has an old-fashioned style and quality that stands in contrast with most contemporary watchmaking. And the clock excels at what it does, which is to impress while sitting on a desk. Still, it manages to be different and slightly modern as a result of the to the clever use of high-contrast materials. The crystal sculpture is splendid, and the clock itself is even more attractive with the ultra-large tourbillon sitting in full view under a glass sphere. While it has a big price tag, the Phoenix is special; there are nothing quite like it ...